 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTechTools. Quality tools essential support. All right, so we've got us a freezer here that is tripping oil pressure safety. This is a pretty good size warehouse. It's been tripping randomly sometimes once every a week or two. Everything was checked. They had a solenoids holding. Pressure differential was good. The nozzle's good and Yankees thing open. See there it's full? But we're low. I'm not seeing swashing around at all. Now what can cause that is if it was short-cycling the compressor, it'll pump the oil right out of itself. Now do we have potentially some sort of short-cycling issue going on? Do we have pressure switch? It's acting stupid. I thought they said they changed the defrost clock. Maybe it was on the other one. This one says it's seven o'clock. It's 840 something. It's possible. That's okay. Let's go and mark the clock here, which I don't have my pin on me, which is typical. Screw it. We'll just mark it with the scratch. There we go. Crank case heaters working. What's going on that we're missing? Let's check our suction pressure and see if it's pumped down still. And you know, I love my analog gauges for pressure switches. Haven't seen a digital set that is fast enough. And our suction pressure is up to 35. So question is, was the unit running and then it tripped out and then it shut down and obviously it couldn't continue to run because it protected the compressor. It shut off. I mean, it's obviously not as high as it could be. I don't know if we're gonna get straight answers, but it sure looks awfully low. This is a Centronik, which like I said, they have a new switch on there and you got the Centronik there. We could have a defective Centronik, but like I said, the oil level looks low to me. Let me be honest with you guys, sometimes I like to go through and search oil issues because this is a larger system and it's been looked at and previous trip it had at least a quarter inch sight glass of oil. The sight glass, refrigerant sight glass was full and now that the switch has been changed, you know, I wanted to think, you know, a reminder of some of the things that it could be. You could have an accumulator issue there. It could be possibly not letting the oil return. It could have a weep hole that's plugged up. It could be low on charge. It could have super heat issue causing low velocity. It could have, you know, possibility of migration back, but we have a solenoid to protect it from that. We have a crankcase heater that appears to be working currently that should protect the migration there far as, you know, accumulating in the compressor. So, I mean, I'm kind of going through here. I'm wondering if the accumulator is possibly trapping it. I've had that in heat pumps. You got potential of electrical issues. Just a lot of things that you may not think of and it's never a bad idea. Contracting business is the website I'm on. They've got some really good articles and stuff. All I need is 8 to 9 psi pressure. So we're gonna kick it on. I don't want to add oil immediately. I mean, I'm gonna watch it and that way I don't want to put oil in it just to yank it back out. Drization crankcase due to blow-by from the piston rings. Yeah, that's true, too. I mean, we just got a bunch of things it could possibly be. And there's our suction pressure. 35. Okay, 35-ish. Yep, 35 on the money. 6 on that one. Close enough. This one's actually more accurate. That JB gauge is pretty nice. They're both made in America. Yeljack and JB both good quality companies. So now we are able to monitor and see where our suction's at. It's gonna tell us what our oil is. So if it's completely zero, obviously we're gonna stop it right away. Like I said, you got to watch. Make sure it's not completely full. Calls it an opposite, but like I said, the guy ended up checking it. It was at a quarter. There we go. Heard a click. We could have a little pressure switch rapid cycling the system. I mean, that's always a possibility. Let's see if the solenoid's got power. Put our amp draw. Solenoid does not have power. Let's see that there's no display on the amp draw. That magnetic waves from the solenoid will trigger it. So jump back to voltage. Okay, and we have no voltage open there. Let's go to tween voltage. From between ground and one of the terminals. I have 120-ish. Are we in the defrost? I don't think we're in a defrost yet. It has tracked. The copper has moved away from the scratch. So the clock is moving. So why are we not running? Maybe I didn't push hard enough. All right, whatever. Okay, look at our discharge here on our oil. There, so we are in the cyclist. But we are kind of bound here. It's not completely bone dry, but you did see how she was acting stupid. 18 minus 70. As far as I've seen, it's always been pretty steady. I don't know if he checked the oils. I'm gonna check with the other guy to see if he's checked that. Oil, he said the quarter area. That's about where we're at. I'm wondering if he's had a little bit of oil. I'd like to check that screen though. I'm gonna check with that guy real quick. So I talked to the other guy, gave me some ideas of things to check. We are shutting off beautiful. Like right now we're at 5 PSI. It's in defrost this time. I've been encycling it on and off at the switch here at our actual toggle switch. So let's kick it back out again. You watch it come up. Right on about 15. I mean, that's a little lower than what we normally go with, but normally goes somewhere around 20. This is 404A. So let's do a regular pump down this time because I don't want to build a bunch of heat up on my coil. That contactor, although I changed it, there's a possibility. I mean the amp draw on that coil is only 0.2 amps. Watch this thing shut down again. Pump it down. The suction pressure's going to drop and so is the oil pressure. Boom, instantly shut down. I'm thinking of cleaning that screen just in case. When this first came on, that oil came up and it was hanging, I think 4550-ish area and it didn't build up all the way. Now that could have been just, you know, hadn't ran for a day. The guy did not reset it for a reason. My oil level still is at the very, very bottom. One more time here. Right around 15. Going down here to the contactor because if the contactor's kicking on and off or if the winding's on the protection circuit or the winding's actually in the compressor, we're kicking it out. You can have some short cycling there. We're at 0.1, hell no amperage now. That's kind of nice. You're real close to that coil there. My whole thing is we've got to do something because it's doing it again and again. So we've got to eliminate more things. Like I said, it already placed the Centronix switch and fountain suction. Yeah, we're probably getting a little bit of flood back there but the accumulator's catching it because I mean we just cycled it on and off. Big check, super heat. Something had to cause that thing to drop below 9. We could have a failure on the pump. I've never had one fail on me yet, so I've never had a change one. Never had that, so that's news to me. Side glass is completely cold. That eliminates possibly any restrictions and never build a dryer. Let's go ahead and pump this turkey down. Then we'll isolate the compressor and we'll check that screen. That's going to be a nice little mess. Let's go ahead and kill power. To isolate this compressor just as extra precautions, I don't want no pressure on it. I'm pretty sure. I went with this kit from Herber Freight because it's awesome for the money. I needed bigger ratchets. This is an SAE, all the way up to an inch and a half. I think an inch is what that thing is, so we got that. An inch and three-eighths, that's all we needed. We don't want the potential, say something goes wrong and I can't get the compressor. I can't get it back together quickly because there's pressure in there. If you're keeping a positive pressure, you can get it back together and not have to dink. But if something goes wrong and you can't get it back together, I don't want it open to the system to where it could backtrack into the suction line, things like that. Okay, there's that. Look at that oil. Got some oil issues right there. Why is there that much oil on the suction? Mm-hmm. Mm-hmm. What's going on there? Why is that there like that? All right, well, we're going to snug that back up. We're going to leave it just to where... That right there is a clue, buddy. That is a clue. This is going to make a mess. This is going to be a good video here. I can't get a pan really, so to speak, under there very easily. I've got a big pan back here I could use, but I don't... A pie pan would be nice, but I don't do this often to have it with me every time. Yeah, we're going to make a mess. Stupid heater. There we go. There, that's just out of my way better than what it was. Yeah, it's got some there, but since that suction is okay, I'm going to leave it alone. I mean, our gauge there would pick it up, and we're still bled out over there. Oh boy, here we go. Not going to be fun. Ready? And go. God. There's the screen. Put the thing back over top of it. The screen does have some nasty crap on it. Okay, what I did is I thought I had it. I screwed the cap back in partially. Here is the spring. There is the filter screen, and it does have some crud on it. Definitely has some crud on it. Look at that. There's some chunks of crap on that. There's definitely some crappy chunks on that. That is definitely some chunks of crap. Look at that. Yeah, look at that. I mean, you definitely got some nasty stuff there. So, there I got the biggest chunks. Let's get the sprayed off here. Definitely ain't going to hurt to have that cleaned out. Let's just say that. There we go. I look a little bit better. Okay, the brake fluid off of it now. You can see inside there is a spring. Okay, got that. If you notice that matches that. So, that cap thing is going to go right back on there. There you go. You can kind of see it. Maybe. There we go. Put that back in like that. Left the spring behind it, and then here's this, which looks like it's got a little bit of a magnet on it. So, let's go ahead and spray it off. There we go. Probably wouldn't hurt to have put a new seal in there, but I don't have one. I think we'll be all right. Let's go ahead and get that back in. Snug is tricky up. Snug it up my hand. There we go. That's good enough. Oil seal. Look at that. I even had it marked. That was nice. We'll make it so that you can actually see that the next time. There we go. Oil seal. Put a little bit of this oil on my chrome piece here. That way it don't rust. This is the American made stuff that you won't find anymore. Thanks to Sears and Craftsman all selling out. They did its job, and it's a nice case honestly. I think I got next to nothing. It's a three quarter inch drive SAE inch to inch and a half, six point, six points key. So we're good there on that. Let's get some oil pumped into this. Let's push this back in. Let's see if we can get some other stuff cleaned up here. Definitely was not what I was looking to do here as far as making this nice mess here. It is what it is, but it had to be done. And guess what? It had crap in it. So was it plugged completely? No, but it's not tripping immediately every time either. So my opinion, it's not a bad idea to have done what we did. And we're going to get that oil level a little higher than what it was. I had a funnel, flexible funnel I could have brought if I would have known I was going to need it. Bought it to do generators and miscellaneous things. You can form it to any shape you want. What I could have, should have done, should have done was put that under there, caught that oil into a bowl, drained it off the side. It's a green formable little thing. It would have came all the way over to the side, caught it all. But like I said, I'm not doing this kind of thing all the time. And I hate carrying stuff around the truck that I don't need very often because all it does is end up getting damaged or lost or something. Okay, so here's a regular French. This thing is not, I want to get it and it's going to round the edges off. These, because they have down squeezing pressure, will get it off without rounding the edges. Look at that, did not round the edges at all. The traditional wrench would, I guarantee you my regular wrenches would have potentially done it. So that's why I use these. These have down pressure, crazy amounts of down pressure. Just to kind of show you, because I mean it irks me because people just don't know about them. And then they think you're just hack jacking things around and it's not the case. A regular crimp connector. Watch this, no problem at all. Completely flatten that thing out flat. These are stupid down pressure. I forget, it's like 10 to 1 or I forget the exact amount. Look at that, no problem at all. You can't do that with a crescent wrench. That's why these things are so awesome. And don't get the junk ones from Harbor Freight. They look identical, I don't trust them. They, I don't know. These are expensive, I paid 55, they're up to 65 now, but thanks to all this inflation stuff that there is no free money. So if you're one of the people that thinks there is, you're the problem. So you can kiss my ass. Sorry about the snotty nose. It's kind of cool, kind of cool out here. We'll just pop that sucker in there like that. Brand new. Purged a little bit out. Go ahead and pump this in there. I'm going to take her probably the halfway mark, the way we know. We should have some leeway here. Maybe just the very bottom of that circle, inside circle. There we go. I think that puts us at a pretty decent spot. We'll set that so it doesn't get in the dirt. The last thing I want is that crap into the next system. Got some T plus two recto seal. Everything's pretty clean here. We'll just overdo it and then we'll wipe it off. I can't, my brush is all goofball and everything else. There we go. Just get the excess off the inside so it's not getting mixed in with the oil. Take the first couple threads off and then we'll wipe off the excess when we get there. My whole thing is I don't want to freaking leak. And I do have sockets. But like I said, I've not had any problems with these wrenches rounding edges off at all. And you can open and close them as you're going. So you're able to basically ratchet around it. Loosen it up as you're doing your thing. Just clean that up so we don't look like we made a nasty old mess. There we go. Look at that. No pipe dope anywhere. Alright, so we'll go ahead and pull a quick back here on this thing. I'm not going for anything special. I just want all the air out of it. I did get an adapter so I can run on my walkie battery. I know eventually that battery is going to go bad. And they aren't cheap. There we go. Let's see how this little puppy likes this cold weather. Most everything that we'll be pulling out of here is refrigerant. We'll open up our gas ballast. There she goes. And look at that. Already pulling negative on that pressure gauge. And it's actually done pretty quick for a quarter inch hose. That is pretty quick. Just buzzing along. Look at her. Now when you've got these front seated you are blocking the refrigerant system. You're blocking the refrigerant system up to the compressor. So you're open to the compressor here. Same thing here. You're stopping it. You're cranking it in. It's stopping it right there. This valve ends on the other side. It's going to go to the head of the compressor. Same thing here on that. Yeah, it's just refrigerant oil boiling off. I think it sucks. I don't have a ball valve on this one. Well, I guess I got the ball valve right here. There, we'll ball valve that off there. She's staying at a negative. I'm going to shut my pump off. We'll go ahead and open up that suction port on that valve. That will bring the refrigerant pressure back in from the system. So we're going to go ahead and take us all the way back out. And then we'll back seat it. That was front seated originally. And then we will put the cap on. So that will close it back off. Right now we're just using the ball valve on the pump. And then we've got to make sure we get the high side open too. Because the last thing we want is to try to fire this thing off with the discharge close. It makes for a bad day for the compressor. They don't like it. That's why the safety controls are on the head. For that very reason to protect it against accidents. I'm not going to say this is everything. I got bleakies around that stem there. I guess we can tighten that up a little bit. Yeah, it's already tight. You can't get on it very well. These things don't seal. So don't get on there and crank them with a freaking wrench. At this point all they're doing is lucky to keep the dirt out of it. They never did. If they were metal, sure. So like I said, we are at zero-ish. Good to put this sucker away. Let's go ahead and flip it on and see what it does. Pressure should come up and boom. The fuel pressure went straight up fast and quick. It's about 72-ish, 73-ish. It did not do that stutter thing that it was doing earlier. That's what bothered me when I first kicked it on. It was doing this. Then it came up. I'm washing our oil there. We came down a little bit. Peering up. There we go. So we're going to hook up the gauges to the digitals. It's rossing up. So we'll go ahead and hook this on there. This is kind of nice for... This thing is accurate usually within a half a degree. 0.3 degrees is usually what they got them rated at. It's 16 degrees according to that. That probe looks a little bit off. It says it's 36 degrees. So that's not accurate, huh? So if that's the case, 16 degrees. Negative 15, that's 30. Okay. Still, we're still safe. 404A. We have 15 evaporator. We have 15 there. 15. Let's just say 15 and 15. There's 30. For whatever reason, that's having a fit with it. It's not working very good. Definitely got some frost there on that thing. It's under pretty good. That one's under pretty good. It's not doing real good. I don't like that. Let's shut that off before I destroy it. That usually is meaning that there's oil pressure right up against. There's no buffer. Hopefully this thing will shut off real quick and I can disconnect. I'm not doing it while it's running. Still a zero. Good. Psyglass. A little refrigerant in it, it looks like. I wonder if we got something. Something's going on here. Not sure exactly what. Usually you get foaming like that. It's refrigerant. That usually is an indicator of air indication of what's going on. You have to check everything to get it. Well, there's definitely a differential of eight degrees between the in-going and out-going side of that accumulator. So we're definitely separating some liquid. Which tells me that we could have some migration possibly when it shuts off. What's keeping that from migrating the liquid out? I would think a block heater there should be taking care of it, but not 100% certain there. Let's do true compressor super heat here. We'll unhook the other one. We've got saturated temperature of 16 below. Add those together. That would be almost 35 to 40 degrees. So while it's running, we're not getting any floodback. Alright, so we've cycled it on and off multiple times. I chopped off some connectors here on my contactor. Put on some insulated nice two wires under one instead of those two splitter deals. I've wiggled all my wires. I've got zero voltage drop across my new contactor from last year. Amperage is right in line. We're at 32.5, and it's 32.7 is what somebody had back a couple years ago. Everything looks pretty good. We had a little bit of fluctuation in the oil there, but right now it don't look bad at all. I mean, I put it right at the very bottom of that circle, bullseye, very bottom bullseye. So it's a little bit lower than that, but it's a lot higher than what it was before. And I was afraid that if we do have oil coming back, I'm wondering if it ain't something to do with that accumulator. Why did I have oil in that suction line like I did? That, you know, no matter what, since it's random, what do you do? Do you replace an accumulator? Do you replace the controller here for the oil pressure safety? They're not cheap. All those possibilities. All right, guys, you enjoyed the video. I want to see more like it. If you would hit the thumbs up button. We'll try this out and see how things go at this point. I don't want to just replace parts to replace parts. Don't know what we can do. The pressures are fine. The system cycles on and off fine. The solenoid seems to be holding. The superheat's okay. Pretty much went through everything under the sun. So at this point, we're going to replace some expensive controls for no good reason, and I don't want to do that. Anyhow, thanks for watching. Until next time, later.