 Today we're going to be looking at this Sony 20M4U high resolution Trinitron monitor. Now this one is going to be serviced and I'm not going to tell you all the wonderful goodie amazing things about this particular CRT because I've already done that and so if you want to check that out you could definitely check out that video it was pretty popular so if you want to know all the goodies and what all this thing does please check that out. Today's video is all about servicing this beautiful machine. Okay so let's just look at this real quickly it has been tested working just like the sticker says this was purchased in 511 2022. This is a client who is locally in town and wanted to get it serviced. I have turned it on and confirmed that it does work. Now we do have some weird sticker residue here that we'll need to clean off. I like how the lighting is casting that so you can see that shadow right there from that sticker so this one's been in storage and then it's actually going back into storage after I serviced it for a little while and then I think it's on its way over to Hong Kong believe it or not. There are some dings on the case what we're concerned with is really cleaning this thing up testing it thoroughly and we're going to definitely get inside of it and remove the circuit boards and we're going to go through and do a normal servicing capacitor kit on this. All right this is a 120 volt 50 slash 60 Hertz monitor check it out 1.3 amps power rating so we'll have to verify that with our new power tester. This one's from June of 2000 serial number 2015143. Now when you remove the shell for this PVM all you really need is a Phillips head screwdriver and then there are six chrome screws and those are removed from these side holes on the PVM shell and then you have four black screws and those are removed from the backside of the PVM shell normally here and then normally here now this particular model did have an extra SDI card installed so there were two more screws and those were removed from here and then from here and there is that component SDI card that's been installed right there now your monitor may not have this installed so you wouldn't have to worry about those screws if that's the case but once you've got all those screws out all you really need to do is take the shell by the handle on each side and then slowly pull it back towards you all the way until you have it all the way off a couple feet and then you can remove the shell so I'm going to do that and we'll take a look inside. Now that our shell has been removed we could take a quick look inside first there's a label right here that will tell you the model so a PVM20M4U and then that dash means if there's a revision of this monitor you have that revision number for example this one is the revision number one so that's why there's a one there and that's something that will only be inside on this label you also have a manufacturing date that will match the one we saw in the back of June 2000 and also the model number or I'm sorry the serial number on there is listed so you can confirm that that actually is the same one that we saw on the back of the shell all right so to get things started we're going to remove these boards along the side this first one is again that SDI card so it may not be on your monitor but here what we need to do is remove this screw and then there might be yes another screw down there we need to remove that we can lift this take this out of the way disconnect it and then we need to do the same thing over here but this is our actual power supply board and it has those bronze screws right there and then we'll disconnect the connection cables and remove it and yes there always is this one grounding screw that you have to be aware of because it also needs to be removed we'll get these two boards out of the way and then we can address the center interior of the monitor now that the boards have been removed I'll show you on each side what the cable set actually does so these two cables connect into the bottom of the SDI card and then they are fed over down here into the monitor actually into this BB daughter board right there and then the other cable which is this white pattern cable goes through the other side and it comes out right here and it connects into the power supply that we just removed as well as this cable bunch and then this cable bunch this goes to our on off button this is our degausing cable and then right here is where our main power from our wall jack would come in and actually go straight into the power supply and then it's converted into usable power and sent off to the monitor through these cable connections and if you wanted to for example not use this SDI card you could remove this cable and this card completely and any of the cables that are attached to it and not even have that in the monitor anymore if it's causing any kind of problems because sometimes that will cause some interference yeah I'm sorry about that choo choo Harrisonburg choo choo baby all right the choo choo train is going on down the track because I hope now we want to get this center board and the neck board out and I want to get this out as easy as possible and it took me a while to figure this trick out because I used to take everything apart and now I'm going to show you how I like to do this so that it is all in the relatively one single piece there are some screws you're going to need to remove so to start off with come over on this side you check out this grounding connection plate right here there's one screw that connects that plate to the input board you need to have that removed so this is loose and it will stay with the tube and everything all those connections are going to stay up there and then there's one ground point right there that's connected to the actual board so remove that one single ground connection screw so it's not attached to this either that's the first thing to do here's our sdi board cable we'll put it over here and the next thing we're going to do is make sure that we have our yoke disconnected right here thankfully that's easy on this setup you have a yoke disconnection cable right there up top instead of having to worry about underneath one of these ground connections will need to be taken off of the neck board that's this one so that should pretty much come right out if you can hit the little release tab in there and that should slide out so i'll get that taken care of here in a second and then the whole boards can slide out a little bit just like that by pulling on that back and then you definitely will need to undo this this is the yoke cable again we'll keep it right there and if you want to disconnect the yoke cable that's doable right here so you could disconnect that and keep that over there actually if you'd like that's probably easier and then this bundle of cables all needs to be disconnected as well as those all along here so just pull this out far enough where you can do that and then the last thing that remains is the discharge so i'm going to take care of that discharge and then i'm going to come back and show you how all this can come out in one solid piece warning working inside a crt can be dangerous viewer discretion is advised now there's nothing dramatic about this discharge and i'm not going to tell you to do this but this is literally how sony used to tell their employees to do it and that is to pinch this anode cap together of course this monitor is turned off okay and not plugged in but you're just supposed to take that and tap that against the metal shell do not touch the metal shell uh but that's it and this actually has a bleeder resistor in it now the reason i tell you not to do it is because if this anode cap has a split in it or has failed or if the resistor has failed then that storage of energy could still be stored in this tube and some of the energy does stay on there on that cap but most the energy stays there on that tube so i'm going to come back and just discharge that to part of the tube to a ground point and make sure there's no zapping or anything but that's really it on a discharge of a pvm but again this is for me the pvm expert to risk myself not for you to risk anything so just let me take take the beating on that if something were to happen now there was a small piece of rubber rtv silicone that i did just pull that section off with my esd plier set here and you can literally do anything to get that kind of broken free but do not go too deep and start touching the pins and stuff down there it's not for the chance of electricity hitting you or anything it's actually just so you don't damage any other stuff in this area now the next thing i'm going to do is just slightly pull back on this neck board and wiggle it a little bit try to work it till it slides back slowly and then it works itself free right there and then we'll set it down like that and then again this is our connection right here into our crt gun and this little plastic shielding spacer right there and so now what i can do is i can grab this entire setup of boards since i've disconnected everything slide it back just slide it back like that and now you see i have this whole section of board in one piece and i can take it down into the shop and service it and that whole section is good the way it is and it can be cleaned so now i'm going to get these boards down to the shop and we'll get started on the servicing all right one of the first things i'm going to do is i'm going to try to get this neck and input board out of the way and if you'll notice some things are connected to both the neck board and then this junction kind of point here between the main board and then your flyback so what i like to do in this situation is just remove at this junction point this top black cable on this side right here and then the red cable right under that and what you do is simply slide that back so that just comes off of here and then same thing with this red one we'll get that off and just remember where those go so you can mark those or take pictures if you do remove them we've also got these other cables on this neck board that we need to remove okay so yeah we just removed these two from here and then disconnected the other point here for a ground cable on this neck board and then we have our connections here and here that we just removed and now this neck board we could take this now and set it aside and service it and that will be a recap a definitely solder checking and we'll check some other parts on this thing next thing we want to get out of the way is our input board and there's these little plastic tabs that are a little bit flexible you pull those out and you push up and that's how you get this board to come free from the rest of the shell here and then you just need to make sure you disconnect these cable points like these here and there's some on this backside on the main board that we're going to take all that off the last thing we need to disconnect is this black cable from the fly back to this portion up here here's a look at all the boards laid out here nicely we've removed them from the plastic and it's just the boards now so on the left hand side is our primary a board for this monitor and this is the one that controls mostly everything on the monitor we've got our deflection area over in this first section closest to me and then some other processing and video processing things in this area and this is a very packed board double-sided so it takes a high level of skill to get in here and work on these things and just upon first inspection check it out somebody's been in here before and already attempted to do some work that we will be having to obviously clean up all that looks like a mess goodness gracious definitely had somebody come in here and do some soldering and stuff in this area and yeah look at that one oh golly i didn't even know this i'm sure that this person didn't know this this has already had like a recap done to it looks like but we're going to go through and remove all that because this is not very good work and this is why you want to clean up after you do work because even if you do good solder work and you leave this residue from your flux on these boards look how nasty it can look years later all right so let's uh let's talk about this board we're going to service the deflection area on it and that includes you know the most the capacitors in this area specifically these ones right here are the two most important that i'm touching those are for the vertical blanking circuit and these can wear out and then cause red green and blue lines that should only be a viewable in under scan mode it causes them to creep into the image and if you keep letting that happen eventually these will completely fail and when that happens it blows out on some more on the circuit like some of these ic's will get blown out and it can't even damage the flyback ultimately so that's really the biggest problem on this monitor of course the other capacitors are spread out kind of in my area under my hand that you recap in the cap kit and that's part of the servicing job and i think it's about 25 to 30 capacitors on this board that end up being replaced and then it gets cleaned and then you can test it but oh my goodness looks like this one is going to need some more work than i anticipated originally now let's move on to the next board which is another vital board it is our c board also known as the neck board it goes straight into the tube and helps our colors go in there and there's a lot of voltage that goes on on this board specifically and so this board gets a full recap and there are only what looks to be three capacitors on this board specifically uh that's these electrolytics right here there's three of those so there's not generally a lot of capacitors on this board sometimes there will be five sometimes there will be two it just depends on what model version you end up having so those will get changed and the other thing that's more important usually on this board if you have some kind of failure here uh you want to check for solder you just want to see if your solder quality has worn out over time that generally seems to be a problem more on this board just because it has a lot of voltage a lot of high heat in this area and also you notice these three heat sinks each one of these transistors it's uh it's in loop here for a color on the color guns so one goes to red green and then blue and if one of those fails it will knock a color signal out so those are some of the things you want to try and test to see if you do have a problem where your color's gone and you know it's not the tube well it might be one of these transistors has failed and just like the transistors each color has a big resistor which are these resistors right here the three big ones and so you want to check those if you do have a problem and those are always great points at these resistors and these transistors especially where that neck board connection goes into the tube those are all great points to reflow solder so usually I reflow solder on just about this entire board when it's serviced and that's what will happen to it and then finally for the primary boards is the power supply power supply does have some points where it can fail but funny enough it's not generally these capacitors that go bad sony really did a great job in designing this and uh this was relayed to me all this information from legendary save on pat uh out in california so after discussing this power supply with him in length he informed me that generally speaking these capacitors don't take a lot of damage over time what more often than not will fail are these again i season transistors and what you have on this board for example is one two goodness three four five six seven uh eight nine ten you have like ten transistors maybe even 11 i'm sure there's probably another one hiding over here somewhere and what can happen is just one of those can blow out or multiple ones of those can blow out and affect your voltage and so that way you know you don't know what's causing the issue and it's literally not the capacitors more than often than not it ends up being these again ic's voltage regulators and the best way to figure that out is to try to do a power test on the power supply and read voltages to figure out which line on the power supply is actually having the problems like the five volt the 15 volt the 115 volt etc and those are generally going to be the ic problems now when we clean this we'll check again for solder integrity and qc it that way and then we'll pull out our cap tester and we'll use the esr meter and we shall test these capacitors just to see what they're showing up on the reading and once we do that we can qc this board and it will be ready to put back into the monitor and the final board i'm looking at right here is our input board i have removed the shell but this is very standard for this input board really nothing tends to go wrong on this board it's very hardy and there are capacitors on there but like i said it's rare that anything happens on this board because it's not a high heat area but that may change over time now it's time to install the cap kits on these boards and do all the servicing to them now folks all the boards have been serviced and the most dramatic improvement would be on this deflection board these are the areas that all got new capacitors it's a mix of colors on mostly red black and then some brown capacitors there different brands all top notch all are better capacitors than what was removed as far as quality is concerned more capacitors along here that were changed and then over in this area we changed these out and this is again part of that deflection board kit and the more important side of this board is probably the bottom side where we had this whole area that had been reworked and all that nasty leftover gunk on a lot of areas well i did remove all that old solder along with those old parts and i cleaned up the whole board and then reinstalled these new capacitors and of course cleaned it again afterwards so it's quite clean and everything looks pretty good there was one spot down here where i do have about half a trace that's gone and that was gone from the prior tack it burnt that off so hopefully that won't cause any kind of an issue but that's a possibility so i need to remember that one spot let's go back to there real quickly sorry it's c529 you can see how it's got kind of half a trace there on the negative end so anyway the next thing to do is to get this and the other boards put back together in the bundle form that we saw earlier and then we can throw them back in the tube and run a test to make sure everything works all right folks please excuse the background noise there's a lot of people cutting the grass at this time and a lot of loud engine noises but i wanted to show you that everything's been reassembled and you can see how much cleaner it looks and i don't know whether it's just confidence or maybe confusion or overestimation on my part but i've already gone ahead and pretty much put this thing all the way back together and i've screwed all the boards in now obviously the back's not on here because i'll probably have to make some adjustments just in case it is working but we're going to turn it back on right now and see how how our restoration came out we're going to just be testing composite video to start and should already be in that mode because that's the mode i left it in when i took it apart and we've got a nice sound there of the crt coming on and you can see my reflection and then boom here we have the 240p test suite and it's very hard to get that to show up without reflecting and disappearing but i assure you that it's working uh perfectly there we go the image is stable everything looks good and so what that means is i need to let this run for a little while and then we'll make some adjustments test everything and then i'll come back and i'll show you kind of how it looks after all that all right we're ready to take a look at our custom artemios 240p test suite here and again this is my special copy on the super nintendo and we're going to look at some test patterns quickly i have made all the adjustments that we will be making to this monitor including things to color geometry purity convergence and other things to like focus and that's all done either by using the service menu or using some potentiometers in the back there are a couple back there in the yoke that you can do fine tunements on your convergence with i would give this grade on this tube you know about an a- it's not completely perfect it's got some issues and that seems to highly be the case when you work on 20 inch pvms now the bvms will be a little bit better at things like convergence controls and geometry controls and fine tunement but on these 20m4 us and even like the 20l5s any of those they do not have as much hardware pushing the geometry to the limits now this is still considered great geometry you know for a crt overall but it's just there's a few tiny little quirks like there's an almost a little tiny curve up here it's going to be very difficult to see but that's really only if you're staring at this screen you wouldn't even notice it otherwise uh some other things when you're looking at this particular screen the most important thing you want to try to do is make sure that all these squares are square so to make the aspect ratio correct you need to have this side be as long as this side and then you can go this side as long as this side and those are the red squares okay and then these other squares help you do things like check convergence in a specific area you can see where your beams are lined up and then also these need to be square in order to make sure that your linearity is correct on the screen you want to have as many of these be square too so it's a great pattern to look at everything but that's pretty much how this thing looks we're going to get the shell put back on the back here everything is going great since the job was finished on restoring this and recapping everything so we're going to now shut it up and then we'll see how some games look on it all right well it's looking good it's working good and I always get complaints about using the same games when I show footage of the monitors working so this isn't going to be a lot of gameplay footage on this one and we'll show you the infamous aspect ratio on moon here tell me whether you think that looks like a complete circle or if something looks off to you and that's going to finish this up on today's episode I hope you enjoyed it please if you did leave me a like and I will see you all next time with some more retro content one final thing here is our power tester and outlet two is our nintendo or super nintendo it's going to be sitting there pretty steady at four watts outlet one though will jump from 80 well let's see how it jumps if anything sometimes it'll jump into the hundreds so that's why it's saying 1.3 amps as I'm guessing it'll probably jump and spike at 130 possibly on this but right now it's staying pretty stable in the 80s not bad for a huge machine