 Hey, what's up, folks? Welcome back to another 3D Hangouts. My name is Noelle Ruiz. I'm a designer here at Adafruit. And I'm here every week as my brother Pedro. Good morning, everybody. Pedro, it's great to have you here at Adafruit. And every week, we're here to share some of the project's feature electronics from Adafruit. Yes, sir. This is the show we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects. Hello, everybody. Welcome to the show. If you're watching on any of the five streaming networks, we are streaming there. And we're also hanging out in the Discord chat room. You can join the live conversation at discord.gg slash Adafruit. We'll take a moment to welcome everybody. We'll have some shoutouts as well. I'm going to say good morning and hello, good day to DeWester, Tyeth. Hello, welcome to the show. Good morning, everybody, hanging out all over the world. We are getting ready to go over some of the housekeeping stuff. Yep, also Mike P is in the house. Andy Callaway, hello, all. Yes. Yeah, so yesterday, last week, we had a special Circuit Python day that happened on Friday. But today is Wednesday, so we're back to our normal scheduled programming. Shout out to everybody who joined us live. And big shout out to Liz for coming on live with us and chatting about her journey in Circuit Python. We took a look at some of the cool projects. So if you missed that one, definitely check it out. It was a good refresher on all the past projects that were really cool. Well said. All right, shout outs for almost every project that we work on. It's the code by Liz. Clearing my throat here with some San Pellegrino. All right, let me get the housekeeping stuff, right? Every week, there's some updates, mostly. Maybe not every week. All right, 804.com slash free is where you can find out about the freebie deals going on. This week looks to be about the same as last week, but let me go through them real quick. If your order is $99 or more, you'll get a free PCB coaster with a golden Adafruit logo. If your order is $149 or more, you get that PCB coaster plus an Adafruit KB20, KB2040. That's the lovely deaf board for keyboards, for making keyboards. If your order is $199 or more, you'll get the keyboard plus the PCB coaster plus UPS Ground Shipping, it's back. And if your order is $299 or more, you'll get the free shipping from UPS Ground, the KB2040, the PCB coaster and circuit playground express. And we also have a coupon code today. It's good for the rest of the day for the next 24 hours. Ahsoka, we'll get you 10% off your order. It has to do with this week's project. There's a new TV show. Yeah, it's perfectly timed with the release of the Ahsoka series. I thought it was good. I liked it. High quality content, for sure. Yeah, it felt like old Star Wars. Yeah, especially like the costume. The costume, but also like the props. They look like the, I don't know, like 70s style type props. They sure do, yeah. It really did feel like it. Yeah. Inside the ship and whatnot. Little funniness with the story in terms of the plot devices that are required to move the story, but other than that, the effects are really good. Like how the cat was rendered, that looked pretty cool. I think the cat was real. I think it was a puppet. I think it might have been at least some sort of physical things that were there for the actress to interact with. Maybe the facial expressions might have been like the CGI. Pretty cool. And with that, of course, all of the merch that's being released for Ahsoka, including these updated lightsaber models. I think these are going to be the new lightsaber models going forward because they have the removable blade, which is super cool. And you have your hilt attached. And they use the pogo pins. That's so cool. We were asked, we were asked about doing pogo pins. And this is a great way to kind of get a lot out of your projects. So these are from Disney. You can order them from Shop Disney. You get two blades, two hilts. It all comes in one pack. I believe the price is like $59.99 with the discount. It's like $55. So that's a good amount. Your price might vary, but well under the $100 range. It's not going to go back. It's not going to go up. It's only going to go down from here. So these are high quality toys. They're not like battle graded, but that's fine. You can still whack them around a little bit. So you get the blade. You get the speaker, battery holder, switch, power switch. You get all that stuff. So if you add the stuff that design detail-wise, which I didn't grab, the little clips that allows you to add it to your waist. It's just a cylinder with a little cut out right here. It just slides into a clip. That's cool. So you can really hold it on your hip. And you can take the blade out, put it on your backpack. Yeah, definitely. And it's a really good build for the money. And our last lightsaber, it cost us $30 for the resin parts. You're looking at some really nice injection molded parts here. So you're saving money on, like I said, the speaker, the tube. Because the tube is like $25 from Ultra Savers. And that doesn't include shipping. So you're actually kind of saving some money here if you go this route. You really want the Ahsoka-style hilt. And it's already painted. It's injection molded. So it's ABS plastic. You get a better battery, I think, because it's swappable batteries as opposed to like the 74. I'm using rechargeable AA batteries. And they're easy to take out. So it's actually a really good solution. The cost, yeah, is out of this world for what you're getting. The thing that made me realize, you just said, the blade part alone that we order for the 300 bucks. Yeah, this is almost the cost of this entire thing. Yeah, I feel you're looking at one, yeah. For one, yeah. You get two of these because Ahsoka has two blades. And an extra thing you're getting along with it is that extra diffusion. So you don't need that core or plast. Material to sort of illuminate the entire blade with only one strip. Yeah, so yeah. We were tasked by Lamar to do a specific Ahsoka's lightsaber. And I had the idea to like, wait a minute, why don't we just like buy the Disney toy and like swap out the thing. And I did a little bit of research on it. And it turns out some of the people that were reviewing the toy were like, ah, you can really see dark spots in the blade. And I was like, ah, this is perfect. So right there we can get a better lit blade with adding a whole strip of neopixels. And, Pedro, you have some parts, some stock parts I think on your overhead here. Yeah, this is just the LEDs that we removed from the blade. All right, so this is interesting. These are bare like, you know, five millimeter white LEDs. And they're attached in a long PCB. So the PCB kind of creates like the structure for them, but you can see how much gap is in between them. And it's really noticeable, the dark spots that you get because there's only what, 23 or so LEDs in there and they're only white, so they can't change. Yeah, the fusion can only help so much. Yeah. So you can definitely tell in terms of the, is it the dark spots for each one of these? Oh, wow, yeah, you can really see it. Right there. It's like a stripe. Yeah. Yeah, it looks like a zebra. It looks so dim. With the animations too. It looks very dim on the other hand. And then this one's all funky. It's funky, yeah, it's funny. That's some weirdest too, like the, just how many pins there are in there. It's like six to five pins. It's like, oh. Why'd they do that? Well, it worked for us though, because the Pogo pin has like enough pads to do a Neopixel strip. Yeah, we only need a three, but there's five on here. So if you, I guess if you're using RGB LED, that could work as well. Right. Or a Neopixel with like RGBW, like you could do the real white. Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. It wouldn't be hard to add that in the code. And like you're saying before, these don't look as weathered. So you could definitely still do some cosmetic. Yeah. We were laughing at the photos. The inside of this, it actually looks like it's kind of weathered. Yeah. It's not going, it's like paint that, looks like it's like the golden paint leftover that got mixed in the inside of the mold or something. Okay. It's not like sticky or anything on the inside, but it does look weathered on the inside, which is funny. Yeah. Okay. Well, so like we were saying before, we think this is the new model that they're going to be going with Ford. Since we did notice, I think it was the Mace Wendy, also has the removable tactical blade. Yeah. I think about all these exact same parts on the inside. Yeah. So the board that they're using is this. Let me go. Ena SSOP. Say what? I don't know, whatever the board that, the original board this guy came with. Right. It looks like, you can see like, here's like the little analog vibration. Oh, it's okay. Yeah. Oh, so it uses a tilt ball switch there. Yeah. Okay. So it's not an accelerometer. The other thing I like is that the push button and the speaker were actually just regular JST that plugged in to be able to remove that. That's cool. And they actually pull some of those things there. Yeah. That's nice. It's pretty easy to unsolder or remove a lot of the components and then just easily attach them to the terminals of the feather. So. Wow, look at that. Almost the same size. Yeah, pretty close. The standoffs don't fit. But then it ended up being a good thing. So we would have the space actually fit it inside since even though it does look like it, there's quite a lot of space in there. A lot of that is taken up from the mold for the actual batteries. Yeah. A lot, huge chunk of this is just the batteries that are sunk in. So it's not so much space, but enough that we're able to fit the feather in the JST connection cables in there without too much work. It's got to sort of maneuver them out of the way when you're closing the two halves. What else? Yeah, the reason the speaker that it came with is pretty good. Where's the speaker located? Is it at the bottom of the hill? The exact same spot. OK. Major so you can kind of see here a little vent with the audio that come out of. I think the speaker is probably bigger than the one we used. It looks about the exact same size. It is actually the lower quality, the smaller little oval one. So it is like a more cheaper option, but just as loud. What else? Yeah, everything can be reused except vibration motor. Yeah, so there's a vibration motor in there, which gives it like that rumble pack kind of feel. You could add that in there, I guess, if you wanted to. But we were like, eh, let's just not add more parts to the list of things you need. So all you need here really is the prop maker feather. Everything else comes with it, you know, with the lightsaber and the speaker and the new pixel. Yeah, I don't think there'll be enough room to stick the Stemma vibration motor driver inside it. It might be able to fit in there. I'd still want to add that, then add new code for it, have a whole new bundle for that. And this is the non-destructive build. So you don't have to shave anything off. You don't have to cut anything. You really don't need access to the controller because it's programmed. It's ready to go. I was keep doing that. This button's so easy to push. OK. There's also a switch that turns on and off. And you can add that to the enable and ground pin so you can really shut it off. And you can, this is actually a four pin slide switch. So you could have this have different modes as well. Oh, cool. Nice. So even more stuff that you can continue adding on to it. What the guide shows. You could maybe have a mode where you do use the vibration motor. And now we have a circuit Python library for the DVR vibration motor so you can have these patterns with the vibration patterns. Should be kind of cool. Yeah. All right. Do you want to pop open the learn guide so you can take a look at how you took it apart and that sort of thing? That's a simple take apart guide. See if I can share my screen. I should have had this already loaded. Yeah. You're driving it. So let's see. Here we go. Share that guy. All right. Next little quick little rundown of sort of guy. So again, the advantages of this is just being able to make it a higher quality build, meaning your animation is going to look better, your LEDs are not going to look like a zebra. And then of course, all of the updated sound effects because the amp that we're using on here is pretty high quality. So you will get better sound out of it. And of course, it loads like a USB drive so you can change all those sounds out. As the series is released, I'm sure people are going to be making sound packs off of that. Or you could just simply record it from the videos that are posted to YouTube. So you can have the updated lightsaber sounds. It does come with two, but like you were saying before, it looks like this is going to be the model that they go forward with. So this should work beyond the Ahsoka one. The Mace window has the detachable blade as well. So this should work universally, hopefully. Yeah. Some of the additional stuff that we did get was just the two pin JST plug and socket connectors. So we can easily connect the slide switch. And the speaker that is included does have the socket version of the JST. So on the terminal side, I'm using the socket or the plug version and on the terminal reason, the socket version, so that easily just plugs right in. So I don't have to chop off any of the speaker connectors. And then to extend the PogoPin connection for the LEDs, I'm just using the silicone covered ribbon cable. Make it nice and simple. And then you can use whatever USB-C cable to connect that in. That's a little run-in of what the circuitry looks like. Again, it's using all of the components that it comes with except the neopixels. The neopixels. Yeah. See, moving on to circuit Python and the code for it. This is just a mirror of the PropMaker RB2040 lightsaber code, so the exact same stuff at all. Yeah, it has the blade, the color changing features. You just hold down the button and you change color of the blade. You can update the colors. You can update the sensitivity of the swings and the crashes, the brightness of the neopixels, the amount of the neopixels if you're a shorter, longer blade or a different strip with a different quantity. You can change it all up. Yeah, even if you get the low density neopixel strip, it's still probably going to look way better than the 23 LEDs that it comes with. Cool. And one of the most important parts too here is all of the waves are nicely labeled. So the clashes and the swings, which is which. Swap those down. Then Liz breaks down all of the code as well. I think the only thing you might want to add is the white color, since that is what it currently is. I was watching the backstory of Ahsoka and it looks like she went through a bunch of different colors. So she started off, I think, with a blue blade and then moved over to a green blade. And then when she went into the world between worlds, she came out with a white blade so you can go through all those different blade colors that she's had. All right. It definitely matches what the abilities that you're able to do with code here. Cool. Power down, all that good stuff here. See, moving on to blade assembly. Pretty simple. It's just literally three screws that are holding it in. There is a little bit of glue on here that I'm just using like a spatula to pop off. But it removed pretty simply. And then inside here, the blade core, you can see, again, all of the materials that is associated with diffusing this. So you have the molded polycarbonate outer shell and then a diffusion inner core and then a second inner core that is like styrofoam packing material. Yeah, so it's soft and it'll kind of do some shock absorption so that your new fix strip is OK. So that's cool. Yes, on terms of just that alone, how it's cheaper than the actual blades you get from the other blade suppliers, you don't get all this stuff. Another thing I noticed was the tip of the blade is actually really nicely molded into the polycarbonate. So yeah, it's a nice tip because the tip that I got, it's like a different, it doesn't light up as good. And it's like a resin or something. So it's like, those look as good. But that one looks pretty good. Yeah, the tip is on the outside. Actually, I have one right here. You can do a quick comparison. You can see how it looks kind of funny it being a different material on that. This is the one that we purchased and then here's the one that it comes with. You can see that it's definitely a lot more better when it's part of the mold, not two separate pieces that is glued on this guy. Yep, very cool. So definitely a good cost-wise saving for what you get. So you'll remove the PCB, the LED PCB core out of the center there, put that aside, and then we can unsodder the connections to it very simply just using like those little clips to hold everything nice and easy and you can solder all that. You're not going to need all the connections. You'll just need three for the new pixel data in the ground and the power. So these colors are going to correspond with the other side as well. So just pick whatever colors you want and just match them up on the other side of the polka pin. This little cap here does remove. So if you actually want to see which pad each one is going to, all you need to, since the colors all match on the other side, if you really want to, this does easily pop off. You can see it's very simple. It's just a PCB with the pads and it just soldered on the back of it. Definitely gives me confidence for doing our own, like our own version of pin connections. Since we do sell them in the store, we have these in stock. This definitely gets me to sort of look at what products these could be incorporated into. So yeah, you could trim these off, but I wanted to save them just in case. So I just put heat shrink on it so we could save it. Again, keeping in mind, non-destructive can reuse this and all of this just slides in together. It all fits. You don't have to have anything like holding it in. Yeah, I'd say that you kept the sheathing for the new pixel in there too. Yeah, you don't have to worry about it. Exactly, yeah. It also helps to stabilize it in the center, even though the packaging material, foamy stuff, does a really good job of keeping it in there. So when you're sewing it around, you can definitely hear that it's in there solid. Okay, nice. And that's pretty much it. It's super simple with the blade attachment. Right. Just re-put everything the way it is. See, moving on to the actual hilt. This is probably gonna be the only difficult part with the way that you remove this part here. It has a little bit of dab of glue right there and kind of see where that is. And that's the only difficult part in removing. So I'm just using those plastic spatulas that we use for removing parts from our print bed. You can see here the little dabs of glue that they added on here. And these are keyed. So one side has like a little latch. Actually, I didn't glue this back on, because of course, why would you glue it back on? You can see here, design-wise, this is why I'm showing it. So there's this little keyed area so you can't put this on the wrong way. That's cool. That little center one. So definitely getting a lot of good design ideas on assembly of modular parts. Yeah. And then the one part I didn't mention too with the blade actually is it only goes in one way. So this pin that guides it in is a different size than the other one. So the other one isn't gonna go into the bigger one. Interesting, yeah, that's good. So a lot of, again, more design cues for future. I like the twist lock feature too. So you can just lock it in place. It's not gonna fly out. Exactly, yeah. And then with that, I'm gonna get this out. You can see the path that they created for that. Not really. It like twists in there, but it's definitely something that I'll be copying with the way it's like a rail, you know, goes in and it has to follow that. Oh, look, here's that weathering I was talking about that they have to the inside. Funny, yeah. Yeah, I guess it was a mixture of that gold color. Yeah. Cool. That's super cool there, design-wise. Moving on, once you do manage to pry that off, just be careful, take your time. It took me like, I don't know, five minutes to just gently prying around because I didn't know where the glue spots were, but you can see where it is in that shot. See, when you open it up, this is what it's gonna look like. There's just two screws that are holding the default board in here, then these little pegs that go through the other two sides. And then the JST and the other connectors here, easily unplug, take those out and unscrew the board. Again, showing this because we were saying before, this might be the model that they're all going forward with, so this should probably all look pretty similar, except the mold of the actual hilt. Here is the vibration motor that we didn't utilize. And yeah, you just take that out. The feather is going to fit where the board was before. Looks like the switch is on its own PCB, so let's just there first. Yeah, yeah. So you don't really have to worry about. More design, little detail. The way that the switch is actually inserted in there, it's like a little slide. So this is on a PCB and it just, you can slide it out to trace back where the wires are going. That's right here. So let me look at the Pogo receptor, I guess. It has a built-in spring, so that's when you twist lock it, I guess it pushes against the spring. It pushes against the Pogo pins and the spring is there to kind of add compression to it. It's really used for removing, I think, so it'll push it out. So that's what that spring is for, just so it's easy to, you know, remove it. Yeah, it looks good. Yeah, so that's not rust on the inside there. That's just the gold, because I thought it was rust. I was like, bro, how does it get rusty? All righty, I know, right? So again, saving the clips here, what we're doing is just keeping the little JST, what is it, like a five pin connector. So I just left that in there. You could just chop it off. It'll honestly be easier to close up the hilt without having to cut it out. But I just wanted to, you know, just keep it just in case. Sure, yeah. We'll never need it, it's there in case we need it. And then we're just adding the extra extension for the, and the epixel strip. Yeah. So it's just the three wires there for the ground power and the data in. Yeah, and those could, you know, screwed into the block terminal of the feather. Yes. Right, okay. The other connector that we added was for the battery pack. Yeah. So it's just a regular two pin JST. The polarity was the same then? I mean, it didn't matter because you're using our JST. Right. I just matched the negative and whatever the colors are. Yeah, so that's usually the same. Yeah. That was easy for that. And then for the push button, not the slide switch, just the push button. Yeah. It's, this is just gonna get directly screwed into the terminal block. That's what does not the power, but like the on and off mode. Yeah. Turning the blade on and off and then pushing and holding to change the colors. Right. The vibration motor, I just, you know, capped off the ends here just in case, you know, later down the road. Yeah, shorting, yeah. Yep, shorting and I didn't wanna remove it. I'm sure there's like more drops of glue in there. The design cue from this though is just the little grommet, little thing that they're using here to keep the vibration motor from, you know, like sounding like a... Rattling. Yeah, rattling, yeah. So a nice little gasket or whatever rubber piece that they're using there. So definitely take note of that when we need to use a vibration motor, not make it rattle. Yeah. For the back of the feather to be safe and make sure that there's no charging going on with the AA outline batteries or in my case, I'm just using the rechargeable ones. I don't think it's like the same. Yeah, same. We need to charge those. So definitely want to remove the little trace that is between these two pads for the lipo charger and that's just gonna be safer for using regular batteries. Yep. The other thing to note here is the battery soldering, the little pads is gonna push up against this. So definitely add some insulation for the terminal pins on the back. So I just added some cap-toned tape here. Nice. Oh, and one thing I didn't show. Actually, no, I didn't do it. That's for the D20. If you wanted to be even louder than the other one, you could solder the 12 decibel gain on the amp and just be these two pads, just bridge these two together. Not really needed since you do have that bent on the bottom for the audio to come out of. But if you wanted it to be super loud, you could do that. And then here's a shot of what everything looks like with the feather plugged in. Just have the JSTs and the terminal block all populated here. You can see that it fits between where the old standoffs were. You could, I guess, reuse the screws on there, but because this portion right here, you can kind of tell it pushes up against the board. So it's doing a nice little sandwich. And then this is what I was talking about. Yeah, yeah, that's why I wanna insulate that in case this ground connection here touches anything. And this is what I was talking about with the batteries taking up so much of the space. This is molded down and it goes into this, this second half of the handle. Go. You can see when you are closing everything, I just used a tweezer to sort of maneuver all of the wires to the sides and then watch out for like where your screw holes and your standoffs are to make sure there's no wires in the way when you're screwing all your screws back in. But the batteries are the AA or AAA? AA, so three. And like I said, I'm using the rechargeable ones, those work just fine since I really hate using, you know, non-rechargeable anything waste. So yeah, that's pretty much it. Super easy way to upgrade. I'm gonna say it, any of the future lightsaber toy builds. Sweet. The filmmakers are in stock, which is great. They were out of stock for a couple of weeks, but they're back in stock. So if folks missed out, you can get them on. Don't forget. So because the coupon codes, you can get 10% off your order if you wanna get some strips or a feather, there you go. Very nice. Yeah, man, my favorite part is the rechargeable blade because people have been asking about that. I've been a little bit timid on trying to create my own mechanism for it. I feel like there's a lot of engineering involved for it. And we don't really have a spring loaded pogo pin. We have like this magnetic kind of thing. So it's still like difficult, but I don't know, we'll see. I mean, again, what I've noticed, the spring use is just to pop the blade out. Not really useful when you're printing it in because it's like applying force as you're trying to attach it. Yeah, cool. Yeah, we'll definitely look into using pogo pins or something else. Probably a story. All right. Cool, it's nice to have a project that doesn't require any 3D printing. It's more like upgrading your toy. It reminds me of like the My Little Hacker stuff that PT and Lamar have been doing. Exactly why they wanted this to sort of expand the, and to see if the board would actually fit into these existing lightsabers. So definitely a good show that it does. Yeah, good show. All right, that's this week's project. And then last week, we did the Circuit Python Day. So we didn't have enough time to go over that week's projects, but I can go through it real quick. It's actually a non-electronics project, but it's good for filming electronics. So this is an overhead camera rig designed using 2020 aluminum extrusion. And I got inspired by a similar rig that Pedro, you purchased. It's from newer. It's like these steel tubes. And it's a lot bigger than like my setup. So I wanted to make a modular setup. So we have 2020 in the Adafruit store. And I figured, let me use a couple of these and some metal plates to kind of create the same kind of modular system. So I have all the parts here listed. I actually used it for the upcoming D20 project. I used it, you can see here in this photo, it has a slotted rail so you can attach an L plate for your DSLR camera or iPhone or whatever camera, webcam even. And just make it so you can get really perfect top-down shots, so hence the overhead name. And because it's using 3D printed connectors, cross connectors, it's able to slide along the T-slot so I can make it any size I want. And I can make the overhead go lower or higher if I need to, so I can get a closer shot or a smaller shot if I don't have a zoom lens. So it's pretty nice, all the three printed parts can be printed without any support material. And it's fairly thick and rigid. I found PLA okay, but you could use PET-G or ABS if you want, pretty simple. I used mainly Fusion 360's animation workspace to do these gifts so that I can show how the parts are put together. Pretty simple and self-explanatory really. But we have all the screws and the slim T-nuts and stock and in the shop. You could purchase your 2020 from other suppliers like Open Beam, I think they sell some longer 2020 extrusions so you don't have to necessarily do it this way, but it's just here to show you how I did my build. And then it doubled, not just for overhead photography, you can add these kind of spring clamps and then add a poster board or a photo backdrop to do like glamour shots. And then here's just a shot of the cross braces. I couldn't find a metal version of this cross brace because I really wanted to be able to slide it along instead of using like a T-plate. So that's why I came up with this solution. And that's, here's a gif of it, like kind of moving the legs along the overhead beam and then the overhead beam can slide along the legs. The main thing that's held in place, that's like secured in place are the legs themselves. Those are using the corner braces and the L plate just for that extra stability. And then these black little pieces here, I couldn't find any rubber end caps. So I used the TPU Ninja Flex. Actually, no, it was a TPU from, I think Matterhackers is what I used. So it's like the shore hardness of a non-Ninja Flex. What is like 95A, I think? I think 85. No, no, no. 98, 98, 98, 95A, so it's not stretchy, but it is kind of, it is flexible. So I found having those printed in that TPU filament worked out well. And then here's how I used the camera. I have an aluminum plate that I purchased from Amazon. It comes with a bunch of mounting holes and it comes with a D screw thing. So it attaches to the camera nicely and it's slotted so you can adjust the height of it. That's pretty much it. It's a really simple build. So if folks are needing an overhead solution for their setup, if they're doing documentation, doing photos, this is a really good workup. Before I would have my tripod with C stands and that takes up so much space and I'm in a small apartment. So I'm really strapped for space. So having this like on the table really helps out and it's completely modular. You can add all sorts of things if you want to have an extra monitor or some more lights. Like I can have all these adapters and stuff. It's easily attached to it. Yeah, it's usually attached to it. So even beyond the space, just having a tripod in your way definitely messes with your orientation of how you're actually assembling things. So we're always like having back issues with like hours of shooting, you know, an assembly because of having to maneuver around a tripod and then the, oh my, we're just talking about now. You need to counter it because we have that, you know, the tripod head, you know, vertical. So you need all this weight on the back of it and then the space of the tripod legs itself and then just the setup, you know, avoiding pinching your fingers. Like that was always like a weekly occurrence. Yeah, yeah, this is a great solution. And it's, you know, fully modular. So it'll, if you have a small table, it'll work on a small table. If you have a big table, you can stretch it out and make it fit across your whole table. I think it works really well. I'm using, like I said, I used it on the D20 already, already got shots and it works out really well. And the angle that you get at it is way better, I believe, than the, trying to get the little digital leveler to, you know, be completely straight down. Yeah, it's really straight, yeah. It could look, you know, the perspective can look all like trapezoid-y, the way you're angling things sometimes, but this is just straight down. There's no way to mess that up. Yeah. And this is in terms of the lifting the height too, it's a little bit more better than the one that I purchased because it's set to these pins on the side that are, you know, that have these gaps. So I can't get in the middle of those gaps. It has to go down to the next one. So you can more precisely get the height that you need. Yep. And the newer one. And it's aluminum, so it's non-ferrous metal. So if you have like some magnet thing, Oh yeah, yeah, yeah, well, that's what that, but also it's lightweight. So it's lighter than the steel beams. The other one. So what I like is I can take it apart, I actually do this, I take it apart and now I just have two legs and a beam that I can lay flat up against the wall. So I'm able to store it away flat pack style. So again, saving space in a small work area. So it's just really nice. Yeah. So if folks wanna build their own kind of setup, check out the CAD files. It's all in Fusion 360. There's also a step file. So you wanna add things to it. You can totally do it. I'm also using it for the backdrop. Where's the photo of that? Yeah, like this photo here, which shows how the backdrop can be added with those spring clamps. So that's easy to add. And you could even, I didn't show it here or any of the photos, but you can actually use the T-slot to slide in a poster board. So like a foam core poster board can fit in to the rail, the T-slot. So it's actually like perfectly straight and that's a kind of a neat way to do things too. So yeah. And again, you can get your 2020 from anywhere. You don't have to get it from Adafruit, but if you do, that's cool too. Yeah, Lamar seemed to be into the idea. So anytime we have like a camera related project, he's like, yeah, I'll go for it. So shout out to Lamar for letting us kind of turn that into a nice weekly project. So I was able to kind of quickly bang this out and document it and use it in real world stuff. So it's nice to have like a break from like having to design something from scratch and 3D printed and then electronics and coding. So it's a nice camera project. I actually want to build one just so I can move the one out of the soldering room to just have that already set up because the one in the photo room, I'm not moving that. It says they're ready to go. Nice to have multiples of these. Well, I'm looking at a photo here from Tyeth. Looks like he has his own kind of modular system with these different, I don't know, are they plastic? And it holds like different feathers. Yeah, he's asking about how to mount several sensors. I put the link in for the Swirly Grid that Scott. Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. That's a good idea. So you could print or design and print some little feet for the Swirly Grid. So it would like stand up vertically. Maybe that'll work. Okay. Yeah. Or we do have those little feet. Like they're like M3 feet. Remember with the rubber balls on the bottom? Okay. Maybe you could attach those to the Swirly Grid and have it lift off to have some feet so that airflow could go from the bottom. You already have tall standoffs, right? Yeah, you could do the thing. But if you want to hang it, right, I could add just two. So it'll hold onto the pole. Okay. Cool. And that's this week's projects. We're just catching up on last week's projects. We still have a little bit of time here to run through. Okay, let's go check out what you've been prototyping. Yeah, we'll do it real quick. Mostly, Pedro, you got some cool parts that you printed on the dual extruder there. Yeah, so redoing the D20 project on the way pretty close to having this completed. If it'll be finished up the code, it's had a couple of additions to it. And we wanted to see what it would look like with the dual extrusion. So we're just using the Ultimaker here to do the color dual extrusion on this. Yeah, it looks pretty good. Yeah, I love it, right here. So what I have here is the resin prints from JLCPCB. We got them printed in that same resin color from our lightsaber build a couple of weeks ago. It came out phenomenal. Like the surface quality is so nice. It's got this matte dark gray look. All the tolerances work out really well. So we have magnets to kind of fuse the two together to snap the two halves together. It has the Feather PropMaker RP2040 because it has the built-in amplifier and accelerometer to do this project. Screwblock terminals. So the only external kind of component is the speaker that I have mounted actually on this inside here and then the 400 milliamp battery. There's a little slide switch as well that gets mounted there. So it's using the exact same sound effects that Phil be recorded back in 2015. So when I turned it on, it says Greetings Adventure because we're about to venture into the world of Dungeons and Dragons. Phil be recorded so that it only will... Oh, I guess I mistriggered it. I was going to say like he had it so that it has kind of a freefall detection. So I just rolled it in my hand. I don't have an overhead setup, but he figured out all the... He mapped all the vectors properly so that it knows exactly what face it's landing on. And it has all these little random kind of accents. So if you roll a low number, it'll laugh at you or be like, why are you lying? Do you like your fun thing? And if you roll a high number, it'll be like compressive or good job, that sort of thing. And then for the counterweights, we wanted to weigh the two equally. So we added some pennies on the inside with a little screw cap to make it nicely balanced. It's not perfectly balanced, but at least we tried. So mine has those pennies in there and this extra cap that snap fits over it. So it holds those in there. You could also glue it in there. But yeah, we wanted to make sure that it could be counterbalanced. So Jumbo D20, the talks to you. This is way easier to build than the last one. You had a board for everything. Everything was separated. It came out. The charger, the amp, the accelerometer. Yeah, it was in the before time. So it was hard to know. Yeah, hard to know. So I template with just one board. I rolled a four. Speaker. Which actually, the way that I mounted the speaker to the rocket lamp, should probably do that to this one as well. How is it mounted? It is. I think I still have it here. Yeah, there's... I'm going to roll it again. It's just this little guy that attaches to the feather. Oh, okay. I see what you're saying. Yeah, so a separate mount for the speaker. That's cool. The only reason I mentioned that is because I had a certain... Well, when you roll 13 or on... No, what would it be? Yeah, it's 13. When you roll 13. When you do eight when it lands, when it's on eight actually, it kind of muffled because the speaker is pointing down. No, sorry. Yeah, 13. When you get a 13, the speaker is on over the eight. So it'll be done on the table. So it sounds a little muffled, but if we mount it to the back of the feather, you won't get any of that muffling. And then you can use the gain on here to make it sound even louder. Yep. Yeah, those are good tips. So far I've rolled it a bunch of times and on a table it doesn't stuff up. It's durable resin. Like it says it's high temperature and pretty durable. So within reason, you're not going to want to throw it on the ground on concrete. So I did. Yeah, I know you did. I threw it on rocks and concrete and you can kind of see here you got a little bit of white scuffing edges here. So just watch out for that with the resin prints. I'm going to guess it's going to happen to the PLA one as well. Right. But we'll find out how to know. On a sub note, side note, I am trying to paint the numbers with enamel paint because it's kind of like this shinier paint instead of using acrylic. And then I have one of these applicator bottles with a fine tip nozzle. So the idea is to literally just fill in the numbers with some paint. Wrong one. But that's what I'm doing. Yeah. What'd you do? I didn't do that. Maybe it might think so. Oh yeah. Yeah. So the color combos don't look good here. Obviously this paint will look better with a dark but this is the first prototype I did. So filling in that paint. I don't have my overhead so I can't really show you a detailed version. But it seemed to work out. I was able to fill in the the numbers with that fine nozzle that I got here. You can buy these from your arts and craft store or Amazon or wherever fine things are sold. Yeah I'm going to need one. It's enamel paint. It's different. It's like nail polish basically. And there's a dollar on clearance at Joann's fabric here in the States. And I was able to fill up this bottle with that blue or purple. And hopefully it hasn't solidified in there yet. But yeah these are a nice metal tipped fine nozzles for precision kind of stuff. You can also fill it with glue and stuff if you want to do that. But yeah that's the D20 project. I'm pretty much done with the assembly. We're just going to get some hero shots and get video of it. So that'll be my next task. But it should be ready for next week. Codes are already done too. Shout out to Phil B. I really liked that he was able to reuse his audio files that he did back in the day. He recorded all the numbers and all the little accents and stuff. Really cool project. Yeah a perfect project for the prop maker. An Enchanted D20 says Ken. Just saw that. An Enchanted D20. Yeah it's pretty cool. Yep all right that is the prototype. We have a quick shop talk segment. Just real quick. One of our Jeff Epler on the Adafruit team. He recently used a hot air station to get rid of some of the hairy string you get sometimes from 3D prints. And we haven't talked about this in a while. But we do this all the time. And you can get a hot air station anywhere. But Adafruit stocks went too. And we actually have some learn guides that were linked to it. That shows we used it on some of these prints. It's not just for reworking electronics. It's also good for getting rid of some fine string on your 3D prints. And how it's funny is that I've never used it on reworking anything. It's always been for a bit of the string. Oh before I knew that you could just use the side of your soldering iron for the heat shrink wrap. Yeah this is what we're using it for. To use this heat shrink wrap. And then prints. You could also use it on a print to like mold it. Bend it. Yeah mold it. Bend it if you want. Remember like the hairy lion where you would use a blow dryer. Yeah yeah. You can see we do that with an air hot air station. More precise. I think this is exactly what I use. We do sell different tips as well. The end part. So you can have like a super fine tip or you can have like a more spread out tip. And I think it shows it down there somewhere. Now additional products. One of those links now. I don't see any. Yeah looks like recommended to purchase with. Uh oh. Nope. I talked to him on adding that. Yeah there it is. Right there. Right next to the add cart button scroll. Oh there you are too. Those are the different nozzles you can get as well. All of these. So good tool for all around. You need some hot air. Get yourself some nozzles for hot air. And it was actually used on this week's time lapse Tuesday as well. Rolling right into time lapse Tuesday. Here we go. Got to see the edges here. You can see it in the time lapse as well. Just because of the way that it's retracting moving out of the way to take the picture. And then going out to all of these little towers too. There was definitely a ton of hair that was removed with the hot air workstation. And this is a gothic. Crown. Head crown. Perfect for upcoming Halloween. I did mine in this cool little rainbow PLA color. So it's going from gold purple to this dark blue. Is it glittery too? Design yeah. There's glitter in there as well. Got to see it there. Yeah excellent model. I think it was like a dollar. So definitely worth. It actually fits. And you were mentioning before. Kind of looks like the Burger King crown. If any crown looks like a Burger King crown to me. So this is designed by Absurd Designs on Colts 3D. Make a splash on Halloween in your next staff meeting with this headpiece. The crown is designed for Vampire Evil Queen. Sort of Photoshop shoot. It's got a gemstone. Excuse me. And it's got a dimension of 21. Centimeters by 16. Yeah. No supports. Right. And just prints flat on the bed. Yep. Yeah. It's fun. Good find. Yeah. Excellent model here. And it fits like a standard person's head. Standard person's head. I guess you get to scale it up. I wouldn't recommend scaling it down because you are going to. These will get super thin. Oh right. So definitely work for like a kid's head. Unfortunately. Right. This is for adults only. All right. It kind of reminds me of the Ice King from Game of Thrones. Yeah. Especially with this color. With the blue. Oh. A related question from Tithe. As asking what temperatures we're using for the heat gun. I just used 170. 170. Yeah. It's usually at what temperature the PLA starts getting like mold where you can mold it. Right. Good to know. Yeah. I didn't know what temperature to do. Yeah. I had to get another one of these because the one that we first got all those years ago. Do you remember like I dropped it and it started making like a weird noise. So be careful. I dropped it. Yeah. I like that it when you when you put it in the holster it shuts off. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. Remember that. Yeah. Mm-hmm. Yeah. That's cool. Yeah. I forgot to mention that. That's a good feature. Yeah. That's why it's $125. I mean it gets temperature super hot super fast. So. Right. Is that too. Yeah. Cool. All right. All right. Moving on. Yeah. Yeah. Moving on to community makes. A couple this week. A couple this week. I won't highlight every single one but man the lightsaber got featured on printables.com and lots of folks have been posting their makes and making it. There's a few folks that had a little bit of issues with the tolerances. So they went ahead and remixed some of the parts so the blade holder and the emitter are remixed. So if you are running into those issues check out their remixes. So everyone's printing it in their own different colors and using different grips. Here's this really cool one by Do Not Panic. They posted their photo of their build. It's in this super cool like aridescent dual color filament. It looks like that shiny silk filament. Looks really cool. Here's one built by Decephal or decibel posted up their make and they actually remixed one of the parts. Where is here it is. We got this nice black with gold. Here's another one here. I think actually this person here Alcor 23 did a remix as well. I love that color combo. Yeah it's a really good color combo. Gold and black. Yeah so it wasn't fully like screwing all the way in. So they increased the gap in the blade emitter. Someone actually already did some painting and weathering. But there's like a whole conversation here folks. Nice putting up their make of it. Yeah here's one turned on. That looks really cool. Who posted this up? This is by Alcor 23. Yeah and they have the remix here of the blade emitter or the blade holder rather. So it looks good. I forget the name of the droid who does the lightsaber building with the younglings. I wonder who's gonna dress up as them and have like all the different lightsabers. Yeah it looks good there. Cool so everybody's making their lightsabers. Awesome. Yeah lots of conversation going on there. All right past the lightsaber craze we got a snap fit case for some washi tape posted up by Colleen Jordan. They got their snap fit foldable case. So this is a fun little project to hold your reels of tape if you're into washi tape. Yep I need to print those out. Yeah right. Are they being held just by like the being pushed up against the little what are they called? Well things we hold them in. Yeah next up we have a make from Lune LX posted up their make of the retro styled weather station using the pie portal. Love this project snap fit case. Couple buttons in there with these retro 8-bit graphics. Looks really fun matches the theme of the case. It's just an overall cool case for your pie portal. It comes in all three sizes. Pie portal, titano. Pie portal, pint and pie portal classic whatever. I never finished the the tiny little computer with the pint one. I still have it just sitting there with the keyboard right? Yeah with the keyboard. Raspberry Pi high quality camera case. Here's a post up by Douglas Hale. Post it up there. Oh listen nice color color. That looks good. Snap fit case for the HQ. The high quality camera for the big lens. It's got that mount thing. Pretty cool. This is a really fun one. So the LED noodle shop sign was something I did I think last year with these LED noodles. It was for this Lego noodle shop. But a squire posted up their make and they completely redid their own Chili's themed with LED noodles. It looks like he diffused or he did some light blocking here. Which was nice to kind of cover up some of this. Yeah it makes it look like a how it would be on. Does have their little blockers, huh? Yeah they paint it. That's really cool. So if you want to make an LED small LED noodle sign. We have new longer LED noodles now. I probably could have benefited from using paint on my build because you can kind of see the connectors here. And I made it so it snap fits into the Lego build. I mean for our stuff we usually let it go so you can see how it's being built. Yeah I think some wires are coming out here. Maybe. That's fine. Yeah so that's cool. Chili's over Applebee's. So I'm glad they did the Chili's one. So the included 3D file was helpful. Ended up using one lime green and one red for my noodle project. Very cool. Yeah. And then the last one for the week is a D20. Everybody posts up a normal D20 but not the talking D20. Because like why would you do it with all these boards? Dude it's a build. It's intense. Yeah I don't even want to look at it anymore. I mean I would not have built this if it wasn't as easy as it is now. Yeah it's literally just so much better. It's growing your speaker and saw your slide switch connect the battery. Yeah that's all good. So shout out to Ryan for posting up their make of a nice D20. Lots of folks have made the dice. You can it makes a good resin print too. Yeah very high quality. All right and that is we have reached the end of the show we're a little bit past the hour but I think everybody don't forget prop maker feathers are in stock. Astoka is the coupon code. You can use it for the next 24 hours. Yeah if you like the show. I thought it was cool. If you didn't like the show don't tell us. Plenty of people that don't like things. So thanks everybody for joining us. That's all folks shout out to everybody. There's show and tell tonight and ask an engineer. We're back to our regular scheduled programming. Thanks everybody it's been fun. We'll be here next week if everything goes well. But until then remember to make a great day. Say hi everybody. We'll see you tonight.