 Hey guys, welcome to Rotorite, I'm BubbyFBV and today we're going to be building the Babito. I designed this drone for indoor freestyle and guys this drone can do any trick you can name. Trippy spins, mighty flips, it can do it all and I'm super happy to be bringing this to you guys. So to start I want to go over to the tools because this drone is very small so it uses some unique tools. I have a 1.27 millimeter hex driver. The heads that come with the motors are 1.3 but I found that 1.27 fits a little bit better and it's a little bit easier for me to get the screws in. Next up we have our 1.5 millimeter hex driver. This is for all of the frame hardware so screwing in your standoffs and all that stuff. Then we have our snips and our tweezers and our soldering iron and that's all you're gonna need. Alright so everything that you're gonna get in your Babito build kit is you're gonna get four T-Motor motors. These are 25,000 kV so they are super high kV to get you that awesome freestyle juice. We have our flywoo all-in-one. This is a FC, ESC, receiver and VTX all-in-one. This thing's super awesome. It does up to 250 milliwatts so you'll have pretty good video range pretty far. We have our foxy or picocamera. This camera is really awesome for micro drones. We have props and we have our frame kit and then last but not least we have our BT 2.0 connector. I'm a really big fan of these connectors because they have a better connection on the contact so they just overall perform better than basically any other connector you can get for tiny hoop drones. Flywoo actually comes with a pigtail that you can use but I just found that using this BT 2.0 connector gives a lot more power for when you're flying these little drones. When you're flying these little drones you want to get as much power as you can out of them because it's so small and this connector is perfect for that. We're going to go ahead and start with our frame kit. Everything that comes in the frame kit is a top plate, bottom plate, assorted 3D prints, 3M2 15mm standoffs, 4M2 10mm screws, 8M2 5mm screws and 8M2 nylon nuts. So the first thing you're going to want to do is go ahead and grab your Babito base plate. That's the piece that holds all the motors down and basically has everything on it so we're going to go ahead and start by taking our 10mm screws. We're going to go ahead and thread it through the holes for the all-in-one. So we have this hole right here, this hole right here, this hole and this hole. We're going to go ahead and thread it through right there. We're going to grab a M2 nylon nut and we're going to thread that on there. It's really small and kind of fiddly but once you get it going, it's pretty easy. We're going to go ahead and tighten this all the way down. We want to tighten this as much as we can so that the screw is not moving around when we mount our all-in-one. So that's what you want it to look like when you do the first one. We're going to go ahead and do this hole, this hole and this hole. Then we'll be right back after that. Alright, so once you're done with that, it should look like this. So we're going to go ahead and grab our Flywoo AA. We're going to go and open this up and we're going to take out the all-in-one and in here you'll have a packet of some stuff so you'll have that pigtail that I said you don't need which is this piece. We can just go ahead and look it away because we don't need it anymore. We're going to have two antennas. We're going to have our VTX antenna and our receiver antenna. This is the receiver antenna and this is a VTX antenna. Make sure you don't get these mixed up because they are two different UFLs and you don't want to accidentally plug it in wrong and break a connector and then you'll have another bag with a bunch of little gummies and some other hardware. The only things we're going to need out of this bag are the gummies. So we're going to go ahead and open this up. I would recommend keeping some of these hardware because these little M2 nylon nuts you can use if for whatever reason you happen to lose one of them that comes with a frame kit. Put these off to the side. We do not need these anymore. For the all-in-one, the side that we're going to be having facing up is the USPC side. So we're going to have it like this. We're going to go ahead and grab our gummies and you'll see that there's a bottom side that's a little bit thicker than the top side. This is going to go on the bottom of the flight controller. Remember, the top side is the side that has a USPC and it's actually really easy with this all-in-one. You can just pinch the gummy and see there's a little slot right there. Just slide it through that slot and boom, it's on. So we're going to go ahead and do that with the rest of the holes. This is what it should look like when you're done. You have all four gummies in there. All right, so there's soldering to do on the bottom side of this board. So we're going to temporarily install it upside down on the screws just to let it's easier to work with when you're soldering because if we're just having it free-floating, it might be a little bit clumsy. So just having it locked on here is kind of nice. We don't have to put any screws on top of it. Just have it just kind of sit on there like that and it'll make it easier to work with. So if you're using the built-in FRSky receiver, you're only going to have to wire three pads, your camera, your five volt and your ground. But if you are using an external receiver, you will also have to do that while you're out here. For today, we're just going to be using the built-in FRSky receiver because I think it's sufficient for what I'm doing mostly with these little drones, which is just flying around my house. But if you want to install any other receiver, you can do that. So the pads we're going to be soldering to on the bottom of this are the cam, five volt and ground. It looks like it already started soldering it because I did start soldering it with a too big of a tip, but we've got a smaller tip. Now use the smallest tip you can because this is going to be easier to solder all these pads with. We're going to go ahead and start off with our camera pad. Okay, so tending the pad is basically preparing the pad for when we actually apply the wire to it. So tending, we're just going to go ahead and put the soldering iron on the pad and apply a little bit of solder. There we go. There we go. So now we're going to go ahead and grab our camera. And the wire that comes with it is a bit long and it actually has a connector on it. So we're going to go ahead and cut the connector off. To find the right length of the wire that we need to cut it, we're going to go ahead and flip our all-in-one back upright. So basically, I'm going to go ahead and take this off. And you'll see there's a little arrow on the bottom of the AIO that basically shows which way it's forward. Put this like this. Now it's facing forward. And basically the USB-C is in the back. And we're going to go ahead and plop it on the frame like this. To know the front and back of the frame, the front side of the frame is the side that has two holes. And the back is the side that has one hole. Before we go ahead and measure out the wire, we're going to go ahead and twist up our camera wire. This just keeps everything nice and neat for when we are soldering it at the end. The FPV camera is going to go ahead and sit up front right here. And the pads that we started on the underside are on this side of the flight controller left of the USB-C. So we're going to go ahead and just kind of length it out to how we need it to be. I want to leave some slack because at the end we're going to be running it away from the motor wires because when we run it close to the motor wires, we got some video noise. So to do that, we're going to leave ourselves a little bit of slack, kind of like that. And we can go ahead and cut it like here. Snip. So now that we have the length of the camera wire cut, we can go ahead and flip our flight controller temporarily upside down so we can solder it on. What we're going to do right now is we're going to go ahead and strip the wire so that we expose the actual, the wire part of it. So we can go ahead and tin these. We're going to tinning the wires is similar to the pad where basically we're preparing it so we can solder it onto the pad. So to strip the wires, I just use wire cutters and I just don't press down. I don't snip all the way, just snip kind of halfway. Then I go ahead and pull, should look like that. So to tin the wire, we're going to do the similar thing where we're going to have our soldering iron. We're going to apply it to the wire and we're just going to add solder. And you'll see it's nice and shiny and that's how you know it's tinned. We're going to go ahead and do that to the rest of the wires. There we go, so all these wires are tinned. When we stripped our wire, we did it a little bit too long. That's okay because we can always shorten it down a little bit. The reason we're going to go ahead and shorten it down is because on the pad, the pad is so small that if we have this much exposed wire, it'll overlap and possibly short something. So just going to snip it a little bit off. So it looks something like that. So we're going to go ahead and start by soldering the camera, five volt and ground. So we want to have our wire facing the direction of the arrow. So basically the camera, we're going to solder facing towards the arrow because that's how we lengthened our wire in the beginning and also just adds for a cleaner build. All right, so to solder the wire to the pad, basically you're going to go ahead and set the exposed wire on top of the pad and press down with our soldering iron. You want to see a little shiny ball like that and that's how you know that it's a good connection. So the three colored wires are yellow, red and black and the yellow one is camera. Red is five volt and black is ground. All right, so now we're going to take our flat controller. We're going to go ahead and flip it back upright. And we're going to go ahead and grab our BT 2.0 connector. That's this pigtail right here. We're going to solder it to our battery positive and our battery negative. Those two pads are right here. This one's labeled VCC, that's our positive and this pad right below it that is negative. Tining the VCC pad is very difficult because there's a lot of parts around it and you want to make sure not to touch those parts with the soldering iron. So you're going to make sure you don't cut this wire at all because this is actually like the perfect length for the batteries that we use. And you can see they already come pre-tinned but we're going to go ahead and re-tin these wires just because the solder that comes stocked from the factory, I think it's unleaded solder and that doesn't mix well with the leaded solder that we have here. All right, so we're going to go ahead and tin this pad by applying solder to the tip, applying the tip to the wire, adding some more solder. Do the same for the other wire. There we go. And we're going to go ahead and take this 3D printed piece. This piece actually is going to hold our VTX antenna, our receiver antenna and our pigtail and it's going to face on the drone like that. And we're going to go ahead and grab one of our standoffs. We're just sliding the standoff through right now because it's a lot easier to do it now than it is going to be later. I'm going to go ahead and push that through. If you're weak like me, you can use a table and go push it down there like that. So we're going to go ahead and wire our BT2.0 connector wires through this before we solder them to the pads because if you do it after, you won't be able to fit it through the hole. So this pad is VCC, this pad is ground and on our wires, the blue wire is our positive, AKA VCC and the white wire is our negative. So we're going to want to wire it up so that it sits like this. So we're going to go ahead and wire it through our 3D print like that with the blue wire facing up and the hole you're going to use is the square one right there. So now that we have it threaded through, I like to solder my ground first just because if I solder my piloted first, the ground will kind of get in the way. Place the wire facing up on the pad and just hold the soldering tape on the side of it. One nice shiny ball like that. And then for the VCC, there we go. So now we have our pigtail wired up. We're going to go ahead and take our antennas. We have a receiver antenna and our VTX antenna. And what we're going to go ahead and do is you'll see the little arrow on the bottom side of the flight controller. We're going to go ahead and connect these up now. So the left side of the arrow is going to be for our receiver antenna. It's actually really kind of annoying to plug it in, lop it on there. And I kind of like to use my fingernail to push it down. All right, so we're going to go ahead and plug our VTX antenna on the other connector. Or the nice pop. Nice. So we're going to go ahead and face these away, so basically going towards the back. But go ahead and slide that 3D print on the pigtail a little bit more forward. And this big hole right here, this is where the VTX antenna is going to slide through. Just like that. And our receiver antenna, I kind of like to coil it up once, so the length is a little bit shorter. We're going to go ahead and slide it through that little hole right there on the other side of the VTX, right below the pigtail. So there we go. Got it. Once we got it, we're going to pull it. Don't pull it too hard, because you don't want to accidentally rip the antenna, but basically get it to once the black part is through there. And just like that, we'll leave that. So we have this little package of electronics, camera, and antennas. So we're going to go ahead and take our base plate, make sure we twist up this camera wire good. What we're going to do now is plop down the AO onto the screws, just like that. And so as for the camera wire, this camera's just going to be floating around right now, but we want to make sure we push it under the all-in-one just right there. Cool. All right, so after we plop down our all-in-one, we're going to go ahead and actually lock it down with our M2 Nylon nut. So we're just, we're going to go ahead and screw the M2 nut on. And I know it seems like there's not enough room, but if you want, just push down the flight controller and have it so that the screw, the end of the screw, is flush with the top of the nylon nut. We're going to go ahead and do that to the rest of the three right here, right here, and right here. All right, now that we have our all-in-one locked down onto the base plate, now we can go ahead and take one of our five millimeter M2 screws, take our 1.5 hex driver, and screw in the back standoff. That's holding all the stuff. So it's kind of already in its place. I'm going to go ahead and screw that in right there. That's cool. So we have this nice little, little package in the back, and I designed it this way, holding the VTX antenna and the RX antenna really close to the back standoff, because this is super durable. I have not broken either antenna. And since it's such a small frame, it doesn't really matter about RF. It's just kind of all there. So this is a really good option for mounting the antennas. So now we're going to go ahead and grab the other two 15 millimeter standoffs We're going to go ahead and grab our camera mount, which is this guy right here. And we're going to go ahead and thread the camera mount onto the standoffs. Boom. So now to mount the camera, what we're going to go ahead and do, it's going to take off the little black lens cover that comes with it, put that aside. And so the top of the camera, as you can see on the back, there's three wires that come out the back. When the wires are on the top left corner, that's how you know it's facing up. And we're going to go ahead and put it in the 3D print to know which way is up and down of the 3D print. So when you have the angle of the 3D print going up, that's the side that's going to be facing out of the quad. So it's going to go like that. I'm going to go ahead and push this in all the way. Nice. And so once we have it like that, we can go ahead and screw these two standoffs in. And boom. So now we have these two. There's your FPV camera. That's how it's going to hold. As you can see, remember, we have it tucked in under the flat controller. So we reduce any noise in the video. And what noise in the video would come up is like maybe some black lines in the video. So now what we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and tin all of the motor pads. The motor pads are the 12 pads right here. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, 10, 11, 12. So we're going to go ahead and tin all of these pads. Remember, like earlier, place the solder and kept down on the pad. And apply solder. Let it sit. Boom, boom, boom. Perfect. So we're going to go ahead and do that for these other motor pads. All right, so I'm just going to plug it in and make sure I didn't mess anything up. I'm not using a smoke stopper. You should really use a smoke stopper, but I'll know if I did it wrong if smoke comes out of it. So here we go. Ka-boom. Yay, we got lights. Yeah, I guess just really make sure that you don't do the positive and negative of the battery the wrong way, because that is just the easiest way for anyone to mess up this whole build. So now we can go ahead and grab our motors. We have the T-Motor 0802 25,000 KV motors on this build. They're super light and they're super speedy. We're going to want to make sure we keep the screws that come with it, because we're actually going to use those to mount it onto the frame. We're going to go ahead and grab our 1.27 millimeter driver. Once again, you can use this size or a 1.3 for these screws and grab our screws. We're going to throw it on here. And in your assortment of 3D prints, you'll see you have some little skids and we are going to use these to mount the motors as a little spacer. As you can see, there's one side of the skid that is flat and one side that has a couple little divots, the parts with the divots are going to go on the bottom and the screw head's going to go through there like that. So we're going to go ahead and thread all of the screws into all of the little 3D printed skids. So there are three screws per skid because the motors have three motor hole mounting. So I just want a little bit of a thread going up all through the top. I don't want to screw it in all the way. So just make our life easier later when we have to actually mount the motor onto it. Bloop, bloop, bloop. We're really impressed how they can make such small things. All right, so you'll see there's three screw holes to the motors in the arm and three screw holes and three screws that are in the little 3D skid. I'm going to go ahead and plop it in there and it kind of just press fit like that. I'm going to screw so that one of the threads starts popping through. I'm going to keep that there. I'm going to grab my motor. I'm going to go ahead and screw our motor on. Once you get to it, you should be easy. I screwed it on loosely, but now what we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and screw it just until the bottom of the screw right there is flush with the top of the motor base. We're going to go ahead and do that for the rest of the motors. That's what it should look like when you're done. You'll see that you have a bunch of connectors here and while it would be so much easier just to simply plug it into the board, I am very against using plugs for motors on these drones because soldering just has a much better connection and actually provides more performance. Like I said earlier, I really designed this drone to be maximum performance indoor freestyle. So that's what I'm doing. Even though it's a little bit harder to build it, the payout is so much more worth it. So the reason that's direct soldering it provides a lot more performance is because there's more contact on the metal so it can pull more amps and basically spin the motor faster. It's the same reason that we're using a BT 2.0 connector instead of the PH 2.0 connector that came with the Goku. Just having better contact on metal to metal just lets you pull more amps and get the full potential of this little quad. So to sort out these motors, I just like to pull it taut, take my driver and push down so that it makes kind of like a 90 degree angle, a right angle. And we're going to go ahead and snip it so that it's the perfect length. Snip. So I'm going to go ahead and cut all the wires to length now. I did one of them, but I cut one of them too short. Not too short to where I can't solder it, but I like to have a little bit of slack. To be a little bit more careful this time, I'm going to, you want to kind of cut it parallel to the edge of the board so that you know you're cutting all of them at equal length. So you'll see how my wire cutters right now are parallel to the edge of this board. Snip. So we can go ahead and strip and tin these wires. It's the same process that we did with the camera wires. So we're going to go ahead and expose some of the wire, halfway cutting down, pulling on it, and you'll see how we have exposed the wire now. And to tin it, hold the soldering iron on it and add solder. So I'm going to go ahead and do that to all of the motor wires now. All right, so we have all of our motor wires stripped and tinned, and what we're going to go ahead and do now is solder them straight up to each motor wire. Basically what I mean is, we're not going to cross over any wires, so the far right's going to go to the far right pad, middle to the middle, and left to left. In this case, it happens to be yellow on the left, black in the middle, and red on the right, and that's going to be like that for all of the motor wires. And the reason I have it wired straight up is because it just looks a lot cleaner and we're going to change the direction of the motors and be a heli afterwards anyways. All right, so we got all of our motor wire soldered. This is what it should look like. Looks pretty good, I'm super happy with this build. If you're building this at home, there'll be a dump in the description below with the Betaflight Dump for 428. Make sure you don't update the firmware if you're using FRSKY SPI receiver. I have a really good tune for it on 428, so just go ahead and dump that exact dump into there. So before you put the top plate on, you're going to make sure you want to go ahead and put the dump on there, use the micro USB, then after that you can put the top plate on. I designed this drone to have the micro USB inside of the whole drone, mostly because it's more durable for it. If we had it basically anywhere else coming out the bottom, we'd have to move the flight controller up higher, which would make the frame bigger. It's just a lot of work. This was just the best solution for having it be the most durable and most compact frame that I could. Before we put our top plate on, we're going to put our battery mount on it. That is this little blue piece. So we're going to take our top plate and you'll see there are two screws in the middle of it right here and right here. I'm going to go ahead and thread one of our five millimeter M2 screws through it. I'm going to take our battery mount, I'm going to screw that on like this. You might have to put a little bit of force into it. I made it a little bit smaller than the actual screw size so that it stays in there really well. Once you have it on there, perfect. Then we'll also put the other one on. That's our top plate. It's a pretty hot top plate. And if we turn it over, you see it looks like this where we have the two screws screwed in. We're going to go ahead and plop our top plate down. It's just going to sit nicely like that. We're going to take the rest of our M2 five millimeter screws and we're going to go ahead and screw it in. Personally, I like to start with the front right. Because I like to do the back screw last, it just makes everything a little bit easier. Get the front left on. And finally, the back screw on. We can go ahead and tighten all of them down now. So tight and tight. There's our drone. We're going to go ahead and grab our HQ props. These are the 35 millimeter by three props. I'm actually really in love with these props because they are really high-pitched. So they provide a lot of power and make it super easy for pulling out of dives, power loops, strippy spins, mighty flips, whatever you're doing indoors. So on this quad, I fly props out rotation. So basically props out is, if this is the front of the drone, you're going to have the front two spin outwards like this and the back two spin outwards every center, if that makes sense. So I'll just show you how I put them on. We're going to take our prop. See it's spinning this way. And you can tell that it's spinning this way because the leading edge of the prop is facing that way. So have that down, put this one on, kaboom. Just making sure I'm pushing the props all the way down. If you can't push them down all the way, that's okay. The props just press fit on. They're basically just friction fit on there, which screw on props are really annoying, so I'm happy that it's just, you know, friction fit. All right guys, I'm super happy with this build. It looks awesome, so cute. Like it just fits in the palm of my hand. Thank you guys so much for watching this build video. Remember, there'll be a dump that I have for four to eight beta flight in the description below. So if you want to pick up a build kit yourself, you can get that at Rotorite.com. So if you want this drone, you can either buy the DIY kit, which is basically all the parts we just had and you can follow along this build video to build it or they have a built-in tune, which is basically this final product. You just get it out of the box and immediately start indoor shredding, making your house into an ultimate freestyle place. Guys, thank you so much for watching this video. If you guys liked this video, make sure you hit the thumbs up button, it's red down there that really helps us out a lot. Right next to those little subscribe button, you should press that subscribe button. Thank you guys so much for watching this episode of Rotorite. See you guys later.