 This is a big old frozen chunk of poopy. Transmission bolts. Alright, so we just put all the bell housing bolts in and on every transmission you always want to make sure that the converter's free and that you're flush and then once it's free you've got to be able to spin it with one finger. Here's our clearance. See that? That's our clearance that we need. So the flex plate flexes and the converter's not pushing on the pump gears. So we're going to push this, pull this out, go to the converter bolt and then we're going to put the converter bolts in with one drop of Loctite and we're going to use my special Mopar wrench that we got for tightening these and we'll show you how to do that next. One drop of Loctite guys, don't dunk the bolt in there like I do. Alright this is a great tech tip for you guys. I put this in one of my videos but we're going to put this in here for Dylan's audience. If you notice I got two box and wrenches, both three quarter and if you look at this wrench and how far down you actually have to put the bolt in for it to grab the threads all the way around, it's the way that all these wrenches are designed and actually the craftsman is probably the worst. This one's a matcow, this one's a snap on it. So what you guys can do is take any three quarter wrench and flatten the, take some material off it on a belt stand or something and flatten that so that way when you go to tighten the bolts and this is probably more for big black eyes than it is for small black eyes and this bolt header and the frost bright is a small block but for you big black eyes sand that wrench down so you can grab the whole bolt because a lot of times with the thickness of the wrench and the flywheel is going to prevent you from going any further in once this converters on the torque converter, I mean the bolts on the torque converter by flattening this area out it's going to allow you to get more of the hex on the head of the bolt. It's a great tip and then always make sure you put just one drop of lactate on there and the bolts will never come loose. One drop. One drop. One drop guys. One drop on these bolts unless you don't like who's working on it next. And I, JB Weld. This converter is a 90 degree converter which means all the bolts are evenly spaced. Chrysler started doing that in 1996 and up but all the older Mopars from 62 to 93 or 94 they're offset and Chrysler did that because the counterweights and we're going to make sure we're pulled all the way up for the counterweights for externally balanced motors. So once you got this tight, I mean we can probably get in here at the torque wrench because it's a small block but it was a big block. You have to, the only way you can tighten the wrench of the converter bolts is with, with the Whammer. It's the only way. BMM. Wow this motor's got some good compression. No, the other converter bolts hit it. So we're going to back up. Alright, so that's how you do it. James I'm going to let you put the other three in. Alright. Alright guys so the other thing we just did, we just put new studs in the transmission tail shaft right here so that this will hold on the transmission mounting plate. So we just got the studs installed and we will be working on the cross member here, cross brace in just a second and see what we need to do with that. So far it's going pretty good. Transmission is bolted in, fits like a glove. We were just trying to get everything mounted up to it. Go down with the drill bit. I need three hands. Thank you. Alright so here's the transmission mounting bracket and you've just seen John drilling out the bolt holes for those studs. They had to be enlarged just a little bit to fit these studs. Because we were going from a metric bolt to a standard and these are 7.16 so they're a little bit bigger than 15mm. That's why we had to drill it out. And this is the factory bracket right here so the only thing you had to do to it was enlarge the holes in the bracket itself. Alright I'm going to show you one thing real quick and then I'll show you again after we get done with it. This is the transmission cross member and these are the mounting locations for the mount and we are going to need to lengthen these slots just a little bit because on the 46RE the bolt pattern lands about right here at the top of this slot. So we're going to lengthen these up some so that we can use this cross brace still and it should fit up just fine. So after John gets done with it we'll show you what it looks like. Okay guys we got the driveshaft slid in. He's torquing down the driveshaft bolt right now and the stock driveshaft looks like it does fit and will work perfectly fine on this transmission swap. Two wheel drive 545 RFE to a 46RE. That's the stock driveshaft and it's fitting like a glove. So next up is going to be the transmission cross brace right here that we are modifying a little bit right now to be able to mount the studs on the transmission mount to it. Alright guys as you see we got the transmission bolted up to the cross member right here and as we showed you we had to modify these slots a little bit to allow the studs to mount to this plate and we got them all mounted up. So this all fit perfectly fine after a little modification. This is the cooling lines right here and that is how we adapt to the factory transmission cooling lines. John has this little neat setup that basically will go from factory line to the braided line and then these will simply attach to the new transmission very easily. And as you can see we got the cable hooked up to the transmission now so we're moving along. And we're going to do a technical end on how to adjust the cable and I'm going to show you so you know if you ever have to adjust the cable there is a right way and a wrong way to do it. Oh yeah always a right way and a wrong way. So I'll give you some great information for the guys out there for you to test the car. Alright guys real quick we're on to the wiring steps of doing the 46RE swap and there's one wire that John has marked out here to pick up your park and neutral signal out of the factory connector plug that plugs on to the stock 545 transmission and that wire is up here where we are currently soldering it together but out of the factory connector plug right here it's the dark blue and yellow wire. So you'll see a dark blue yellow wire and it's going to be wired to the black wire coming out of John's harness. Or pin number four if you got the schematic it's pin number four. Pin number four also if you have this secret book. If you want the book or if you guys I would be more than happy to give you a copy of that page there you go and put it on the website this is you can get this book anywhere but you don't want to even though it says 68 it works for any 68 or 545 it's for any RFE. Any. Anything. So we got the park and neutral switch wired up and we got the trans brake and torque converter lock up wires to go still so we got two more wires to wire up and then we're going to be working on hooking up the cable for the shifter but everything's coming around pretty good. Alright guys we're about to do some more technical. We got James up in the truck he's going to work the shifter and we got John down here at the transmission he's going to hook up the shifter cable and there is a right way only to do this. The shifter needs to be in fourth gear correct. So you want to have your shifter in fourth gear. The holder guy that's your job is the holder guy. So you're going to put the shifter through the bracket over here I've got to take off the little rubber thingies first these are just little dust colors right other hand you're in fourth you did such a good job. Found something you're good at. Are we rolling? Oh yeah we've been rolling. Okay. Here Clayton come hold this flashlight be that guy what I need it or he can hold it. How's that? That works. Does that works? Okay. Shine the camera on her watch her run away. Camera. What's up? Come here. You know this chick used to help me work on cars when we were younger she had a 69 she about lost her 396 and now she complains that Mr. Hennig shifts to work. Yes dear. I'm going to leave. Okay. Drive careful. I'll call you later. See ya toads. Take two. Take 1000. Alright I'm going to show you gentlemen and ladies the proper way to adjust an aftermarket shift cable and this goes for any car or any shifter the procedure is the same it seems like a lot of times I get calls it's sometimes people get it incorrectly so this is the way I've done it for years it seems to be the best way and so we're going to show you how to do it. Now I took the cutter pin out that normally goes up in here and you're going to do the same thing you're going to get your cable to where you think you got it adjusted if it's a four speed you want to put it all the way down or depending what transmission you have you want the shifter as far back as you can go if it's an automatic that means it's low one if it's a reverse manual that means it's three through third gear or fourth gear depending on what transmission you have and so as you see as I take this in and out it's nice and free you're going to put someone up in the vehicle and you're going to give them orders to shift the transmission so James shifted in the third so now we're going to pull this out and make sure this is still free go to second it's still free I'm going to come all the way out see how it moved that little bit so that's not good I mean it's just so minute very little very long to make sure it's free so now that's going in go back to third nice and free go back to fourth see how nice and free that is gotcha that's got to do that in all the gears you don't need to check reverse you know you don't need to check part but that is the correct way to do the adjustment this I call us a clever adjustable clever has to be free if you pull this down and the linkage arm goes think a little bit one way or a little bit the other way it's not adjusted correctly and then the manual valve is not going to open the fluid to that gear that it needs fully because the linkage is not adjusted so let me put this cotter pin in and I'm going to give you fellas one more tip the next tip is and I see it's pretty close we're going to just move that down if you notice the pan rail is right here where the oil pan bolts to that services machine on the transmission case is the same surface of the valve bodies bolted to so the valve body is level and all Chrysler transmissions are our oil pan is not level at the ground it goes in a little bit of an upgrade so you want to make sure that the cable from the pan rail to here in park position and in low one or fourth gear is the same for the back you don't want the cables going up on an angle or down an angle the throw of the cable it should be as straight as possible there you get free tip of the day there you go guys free tip of the day that's how you adjust the cable on this transmission swap and many others any transmission with an any transmission with any aftermarket shifter is that tip work for any of any of them so take that to the bank to change it to the bank and shift it all right guys I'm gonna show you what we got going on for the shifter area and what I did to mount my shifter so as you can see it's still in the works but this is the shifter plate that I made out of a half inch piece of MDF board and I can see I just kind of cut it out sanded it we have three bolts on each side that mounts to the stock console and then I have a hole here for the cable and wiring to go down under the console for the shifter and then the shifter bolts on to the board with four bolts and nuts and then right here is for my cigarette lighter plug or my 12 volt socket which is right here this is this is the factory 12 volt socket out of the stock center console piece so that I drilled out and it will drop right in there flush and still plugs into the factory harness underneath this board to give me my 12 volt power supply still and then I went to the part store because I still want my two cup holders that I'm missing now and I just got a pretty much a generic adjustable cup holder that will mount down with two screws onto the board and then for the board itself what we're gonna do my wife is actually going to sew together some vinyl that we bought and if you're familiar with how my old factory console lid was up here the it was two toned it had like this silver you see on the dash here came down on this factory piece on both sides and then in the center it was black so we got some silver vinyl and we got some black vinyl and she's gonna do an inside seam stitch on this board to cover it and it'll have the two tone effect so we'll have the two silver stripes on either side with the black in the middle and basically it will more or less when it's all put together it'll look pretty close to the stock appearance minus the ginormous race shifter but it's gonna look pretty freaking good I'm definitely happy with it and it works and functions just like it needs to and there is the buttons there I'm gonna show you the buttons here on the other side so here is the buttons the top button here on the side that is the trans brake button and then this button here that's kind of going straight is for the torque converter lock up button pretty straightforward we put some coat brace and stickers on the shifter because definitely want to represent John as much as possible with all the help I've been getting with this and man guys I'm super stoked with this build so far we are almost done we're just we still got to get the starter installed do a little bit of tightening up on some things and then we are gonna be ready to start this thing very soon so stay tuned all right guys we've got to show you one more thing that's a little technical on the trucks like mine that had the center console shift on your factory shifter you have the shifter wiring harness that plugs into the vehicle harness right here and on that factory shifter there is basically a yes no switch right here that has a little plunger button and for your key to be able to go on and off and come out of the socket and basically for it to register register park or neutral or whatever the switch needs to be mashed down so what we've done right now is we ran a zip tie around it just to activate this switch so that it thinks it's in park and or neutral so that the key will function and basically let the key turn so we can start the truck and get the key back out so that's one more thing you're gonna have to do but that's it just a little zip tie electrical tape or whatnot and just let the harness sitting here and zip tie it up you should be good to go all right guys so we are at the starter and I want to show you the starter modifications that we had to do to build a fit the new starter in this starter is basically four vehicles that is using a third gen hemi but they're going to an old style transmission like a 46 re or 518 or something like that this starter is designed for if that application has long tube headers on it like mine the mini starter that we had tried before actually was contacting the headers and would not fit so we had to go with this starter and it as you can see provides tons of room for the long tube headers and that is not a problem but it does require a modification to the engine block and as you can see right here these two holes on the engine block we had to cut basically half the bolt hole off because they were contacting the starter and in the instructions it said that this would most likely have to be performed for the starter to fit so we had to grind out these bolt holes down so it would not hit the case of the starter and I'll show you what they looked like on the other side so as you can see up there at the top you can see what we cut those two bolt holes the one on the left and the one on the right we had to grind those down basically in half to fit the starter and what those holes are for it's not a big deal and we're still going to be able to utilize it and I'm going to show you what that is so my son here is holding this is the brace that mounts to those engine block locations right here there's two bolts on each side and then down here on the bottom it has four bolt holes to mount up to the transmission case so what we have is we're going to be able to bolt it up with both bolt holes up here on the passenger side block and then we're going to have a bolt catch each corner of the transmission case and then obviously these two holes here we're not going to be able to use because we don't have any threads there anymore but we can still use that cover and basically what that thing does is just a cover to keep the dust out of the bell housing and it does help try to brace up the engine block and the transmission a little bit more but that is what you have to do with the starter in this application I have long tubes now if you had a truck that had the stock manifold logs or possibly shorty headers the original mini starter would probably fit it would definitely fit if you have factory manifolds some shorty headers are still pretty tight it just depends but with long tubes you're probably going to have to use this starter and that's it not a big deal just something we had to do to make this work so we're going to move on for that's a bad bitch we might just set the laptop down to space