 Hi you guys, Lindsay here. Welcome back to my channel, Inside to Him. Okay, so we've got our machine set up and our ironing station ready to go and so we are going to head to our sewing directions and the instruction booklet. If you're very very new to sewing it might be helpful for you to read through this section here. It just talks about seam allowances and how to make sure you're getting an accurate one. When we go over to the sewing machine I'll show you kind of how I do it but it teaches you about backstitching which is important and then pressing and how important that is and then it talks to you a little bit about finishing your seams and raw edges and so I will talk about that more when we get to step number four which is where the first instance where that will be important. For now we are actually going to enclose all of our seams as part of the instructions so that's really good so we don't have to worry about finishing the seams just yet but when we do I'll be sure to talk you through how I'm going to go about doing it because as I said I'm not using my serger for this because I am a beginner so it's just like the rest of you. Okay so front and back that's what we're going to be working through today it goes through steps one through nine so we're going to be doing one through nine today so in the illustration it'll tell you which pattern piece you need we need number one which is the front so I like to bring that out just to have on hand so I can refer to anything that they are talking about and I kind of have it here with me in case I need it so our very first instruction is to turn under a 5 eighth inch hem on arm hole edges of front one and press which is illustrated here so we open up piece one of our fabric like so and we're turning it wrong sides up like so we can move this out of the way and they are referring in the illustration to these arm hole edges here so this is our neckline and these are our arm hole edges one on each side and they want us to turn these under 5 eighths of an inch it's easier to see over here they want us to turn these under 5 eighths of an inch and you want to get that super super accurate so what you're going to do is grab your hem gauge and grab a erasable marking tool some of them are water soluble like when you wash this or rub water over it it'll disappear some of them disappear over time um but you want something that's going to go away so you don't see it anymore and what I like to do for a 5 eighth inch hem is actually your instinct would be to measure 5 eighths of an inch and mark here right and then you fold along that fold line and that's your 5 eighth inch hem but what's difficult for me about that is I can't see the marking that I made and I don't really like marking on the right side of the fabric so what I do is I take 5 eighths of an inch and I double it that's one and a quarter inches and then this is going to be the measurement that I end up marking because after you mark it like so and then turn your garment over meet where the raw edge meets that line you just made now you've got a perfect 5 eighth inch hem so I am going to mark one and a quarter inches all along this raw edge as well as this raw edge over here so now we need to go over to our ironing board and press the raw edge up to the markings that we just made creating a 5 eighth inch hem like so okay now we are on to step number two open out pressed edge which means this and this is what I do sometimes especially in the beginning I will take one sentence at a time instead of trying to process what this whole paragraph means I'll go one sentence at a time so this is open out pressed edge okay got it turn under again so the raw edge is along the pressed crease which means raw edge against the pressed crease like that okay and then it says to press again so you will go back to your iron and you will press this little itty bitty edge all along here and then it says turn in along the crease so then you'll turn in along this like so and then we are going to stitch along this line here isn't that beautiful it's going to create a really nice finished edge on the inside of our like armholes so let me get back to the ironing board and then I'll take you guys over to the sewing machine with me and talk you through how to get super accurate stitching along this edge okay so now we have this pressed edge here and what we're trying to do is stitch as close as we can to this folded edge right here okay so I like to put my fabric in the machine um with the folded edge right along the edge of the presser foot and if I were to put my needle down right now then it wouldn't be catching this little uh inner fold so I have to move my needle over until it is just barely going to catch that I like to give myself I don't know maybe like a millimeter of like room for mistakes because you know sewing straight is difficult um so you want to put your needle down right along that mark okay now we are going to start stitching and you're just really trying to make sure to keep this outer edge along the edge of the presser foot and you're trying to not pull your fabric either just gently ease it into the machine here we go and we also don't do not need to back stitch a ton here I'll do like one or two just to make sure the stitch is locked in but we don't need to do a full on back stitch because the seam is going to be encased in this uh edge here anyways okay here we go so that was my back stitch and just slowly easing the fabric letting the feed dogs do the work keeping the outer raw edge in line with the edge of the presser foot and just go slow and then just lock it in two times at the end and stitch off the edge all right so this is what it looks like on the right side focus can you all see that stitching and then on the inside we've caught the raw edge and it's beautifully finished with no raw edges okay so repeat the same thing on the other side all right so we have sewn our arm edges and uh I've pressed them just to lock in those seams I used a little itty bitty bit of steam on them as well okay we are moving right along to step number three to form casing turn upper edge up front inside along fold line that's the very first sentence so on the inside and it gives us a really great little illustration of what we're going to be doing right here as well okay so turning this with the wrong side up just like in the illustration right here okay so I've got my pattern here and this is something that I neglected to mark when I was marking all the pattern markings um but the fold line is an even one inch all along this upper edge that's easy enough for us to mark and again if I marked at one inch and then went to fold this under I wouldn't be able to see that fold line so I'm going to mark it at two inches and do my little trick so I guess in a way I'm glad I forgot to mark it because I would have just been double the work so my little trick doubling the length of the hem that you're folding I'm going to mark at two inches all the way around all right perfect now it says turn upper edge to front inside along fold line and then press so we are going to fold it so the raw edge matches up to that little two inch mark that I just made and you want to be extra careful that you keep this edge even like not like that you don't want anything like that or you don't want it to come to the inside either you want it to be perfectly matched like so so let's head to the iron and I will press that and then it says after you press that so you press this one under then it also wants you to turn under a quarter of an inch like this and press that so we're going to be making this whole little casing over at the ironing board if you want to have another little mark to measure your quarter inch then all you do is bump this down to one and a quarter inches which is right there and make another little mark if I had another color I would use that but I don't have another color but if you have another color you can use that you can make these little itty bitty dotted ones that would help differentiate the two lines this way we're just accurate when we're folding under that quarter of an inch too and we're not just like guessing guessing is usually not very good in something okay let's head to the ironing board oh this is our beautiful little casing gorgeous we're going to end up feeding like a piece of fabric through here and it'll kind of come together and that'll be what creates our little neckline gorgeous okay so now we have to stitch all along this line so we're going to go to the machine and do exactly what we did over here we're going to place this fold um toward the inside of the machine and then move our needle to where it's barely going to catch this this is wider than our presser foot so we're not going to be able to put this on the edge of the presser foot like we did here we're going to have to use another marking on the plate of the machine so let me show you what that looks like like i said the folded part the casing is wider than our presser foot see how it's going past this edge so what we have to do is we have to move the fabric in past the edge of the presser foot so i'm going to put it actually at the five eighths inch mark so you can see on your presser foot there is like a box like a grid and then the very first line of the grid is going to be your five eighths inch marking line so i'm going to put the edge of the fabric on that line because it's easy enough to follow that and now i need to move my needle over to meet the raw edge of that which is going to be all the way on as far left as it'll go and then i will put my needle down this time we are going to back stitch quite a bit um maybe five stitches or so just to make sure that we can get that um edge locked in there's not going to be anything else preventing that edge from coming undone so we want to make sure we lock it in really good actually let's move it in i'm going to move it into the what would that be three quarters of an inch i just want to make sure i get it really close to the edge and then move my needle over um yeah i feel a lot better about that okay and then back stitch a long way and then just start sewing and you're trying to keep that um folded edge on that three quarters of an inch mark and now we back stitch a bunch and then stitch on the edge like so okay here we are back at the table i have trust this edge isn't she lovely so excited okay now you're going to want to take some kind of thread snips or very small scissors again these are by kai i love kai scissors the blades are so sharp and they last forever beautiful just be very careful that you don't cut obviously your fabric just the thread okay so now we've got a beautifully finished neckline okay now we're done with the front piece now it tells us on the instructions that we need pattern piece number two which is our back so we can move piece number one to the side and we're going to be working on piece two and i promised you some help with how to finish the raw edges so this is where you need to make a decision we've got our back sections pin back piece number two sections right sides together which they already are because that's how we cut them matching notches and large circles so we have our large circles here and then we should have a look who didn't mark three notches so again i can easily just pull this back out oh the three notches are missing there's an error oh no okay well i don't really know how to help y'all just there's not three notches to line up but if you've cut your i can't believe that i've never seen that before um if you uh cut your fabric right sides together and you have your raw edges there's not any easing going on in here or any like bigger parts you have to fit into smaller parts it's all the same length so this isn't like a huge deal um but just make sure that the ends line up which mine did not and the ends line up and then your dots line up okay crazy okay anyways um and we're gonna end up stitching from this dot all the way down to our hem but these edges here you cannot just leave raw because when you wash your garment they will start to fray and come undone and not only is it a mess and it's ugly but then you run the risk of it coming under like your stitching like the fabric coming out of your stitching so we have to find a way to prevent this from unraveling and according to the instructions there gave four ways to do it the fourth way is using a serger which we are not going to do so there's really only three ways and i'm actually going to be introducing a fifth way on our side seams uh that'll be in the next video i'm going to show you guys how to do french seams but i don't think that french seams are appropriate here because from here up is going to be completely open and we're not going to be sewing this shut so french seams can get a little bit funky when you have to try and continue them the continue the folds that might not make sense to any of you but um just trust me that we need to find a better option than french seams for this seam okay so options are you can get what is called pinking shears pink like the color and see how they're like little zigzags and every time that a zigzag cuts into the fabric it actually cuts it obviously at an angle and each angle is like a diagonal into the fabric and the way that the fabric is woven when you cut something at an angle or on the bias it's not going to fray it's just like magic it doesn't fray so you can take your pinking shears and cut along the raw edge kind of like they show you to do here right you can go to your machine and you can set it to a zigzag stitch i think on my brothers anyways it's always been stitch number four and you can zigzag all along here and that will encase the raw edges or you can simply fold this in by a quarter of an inch and stitch along the raw edge you will still definitely have a raw edge exposed but with the stitching line there it won't come undone the stitching will prevent it from coming undone and then when you sew your sew we have this sew down like this and then you sew your seam and you press it open and you get a little number like that which i think is the prettier of all of the options certainly takes the most time but that's okay because time equals perfection and that's what we're all striving for so that is what i am going to do i'm going to take each of these pieces separately over to the ironing board i'm going to press them in by a quarter of an inch which means have you guys learned by now that i'm going to set this at half an inch and i am going to mark from the blue dot all the way down half an inch and then fold the raw edge to meet that line press that edge and then stitch right along that raw edge so here is a sped up version of what that looks like okay so i have got both of my back center back raw edges folded over and stitched so now we have to place these back right sides together with the dots matching so there's a dot and now believe it or not we are going to start using some pins which we haven't needed until this point in time but we need them now so line up your two dots like so like that and then line up your bottom hem like so and then lay this out and pin the two edges together periodically throughout that space okay very good so now we're going to go to our machine and we're going to stitch this now remember our seam allowance is five eighths of an inch but we've already folded this under a quarter of an inch so now our seam allowance from this folded edge is only going to be three eighths of an inch feel free to mark that like move your little guy to three eighths of an inch and mark all along there if that helps you or place this red edge on the edge of your presser foot and then put your needle on this edge and then you can just line this up with the edge of your presser but so let's go do that okay so what I was saying is you take your seam gauge put it at three eighths line that up that three eighths inch line line that up with the edge of your presser foot like so and then move your needle so that it's just barely hitting the edge of that the edge of the seam gauge okay so now when you take this out you know that your needle is down at the three eighths inch mark okay so just from the big circle place your fabric the folded edge at the big circle drop your needle down remove this pin and stitch back stitching a bunch here if i stitch that i went over to my iron and i pressed that seam open it was like this at the sewing machine and then i pressed it all open and flat so that ta-da isn't it beautiful love it um and then as i was explaining you know when i was talking about encasing these seams all of the ugly kind of like raw edge is tucked nicely on the inside and you know after you wash your garment you'll go through and you'll press it and you'll make sure this stays flat and so it'll always be pretty on the inside i did want to make a note that if you're using a knit fabric this whole process is a little unnecessary because knit never unravels so you could in theory just trim your knit um to a quarter of an inch and leave them completely raw you don't have to fold them under because your knit will never ever ever come undone but you do want to make sure that you use a stretch stitch which is one that kind of looks like a lightning bolt that way you know these straight stitches you know don't stretch at all but if it has that little like bend in it then it'll give it some room to stretch as you wear it okay enough about that now we are on to step number five turn under a five eighth inch hem on back opening edges of dress above large circle this should seem very familiar to you because we literally just did this when we did the arm hole for the front this long edge here not the casing but the little one we're just going to do that same exact thing over again except we're just going to do it on this little bit here so let's get to it and i just pressed under the five eighths inch hem and then pressed that under a quarter of an inch just like we did in step one and two i guess so we are going to stitch this just like we did on that step except when we get to the bottom edge where that big circle is we are going to do a little pivoting and stitch a horizontal line there so i just wanted to show you guys how to do that so put my needle down a little bit inside that fold back stitch a couple times and straight stitch okay and once we get down here i'm taking extra care to keep this other side of the back out of the way but keep everything nice and flat see how it's all laying perfectly flat there then you stitch until you get just past the um where you ended the seam in the previous step you lift up your presser foot rotate your garment keeping your needle down the whole time put your presser foot back down and stitch all the way to the other edge so now we should be at the other folded edge pick up your presser foot again turn your whole garment so the hem is like back there and the neckline is up here and the needle is in this left side all right then with the fabric the folded edge of the fabric matching up with the edge of the presser foot just like we did here but on the other side you stitch that down okay so we just did five we just did six all of six so yeah that was the pivoting method that we just did so we just finished five and six and this is what the back of your garment should look like you've got a center back seam right here and then you've got that seam finished and continued this is what is called like a keyhole opening so your um little neckline casing is gonna neckline drawstring is gonna go through this area here and close this up and you'll have this little opening showing a little itty bitty peekaboo of skin it's very like sweet and romantic sexy but not too much um and this should be high enough that you wouldn't see any bra strap or anything anyways okay so there we go this is your back piece now steps seven step eight and step nine are the exact same steps that we did for our front piece we're gonna finish off these raw edges on the arms and then we're gonna make the casing so refer back to the video um four steps what was it one two and three i guessing one two and three so go back to the beginning of the video if you want instructions on step seven eight and nine they are the exact same as one two and three the only difference is that on the front our casing is just one like one long casing for the front but the back is gonna have two separate casings so same thing just split into two but same exact construction method um and everything nothing new there so let me do that i'll show you what it all looks like and then we'll wrap this up and talk about it alrighty steps one through nine are completely done here is my finished uh i guess upper back isn't that gorgeous and then here's you've already seen this but my finished upper front so next week we are going to be doing our side seams which is steps 10 through 15 so be sure to stay tuned for that as always if you have any questions about steps one through nine leave them in the comment section below i will do my best to answer them if you're a more experienced so is take a little peek down there see maybe you might be able to help somebody with some questions that they are having but hopefully um this will help you get through steps one through nine with no problems uh thank you so much for watching and continuing on the uh so long i will see you all very soon bye