 All right, so we're out here on a column and the problem is the temperature's dipping and then now it's working okay. The old LED lights there and they're alternating back and forth slowly. I bet you it's probably a flame sensor fault. They always seem to have an issue with that. And you gotta watch this thing because it'll trick you especially with it upside down. So alternating slow, there's alternating fast. They're slow. It's got burns filled to ignite flame sense probably. All right, so this is a G50. Everything's a G something with these guys. 5801, so the 5 and 8 used to be months or days. I forget exactly what it was, but the old one is what you need to look at. So it's a 2001. One thing you definitely wanna watch when you're doing model numbers, that dash two number, that dash O2, that's how many times it's been revised. So looking in here. Now it is, well, 20 years old now. This was a pretty reliable unit, it's an 80%er. Got the resubble breaker on the side. That was one nice thing. Here's flame sensor, it's already been changed once. See that flame sensor? It's not, nothing's broke. Somebody sold them a flame sensor when they didn't need one. That thing's not busted and not loose there. Clean it. And then they left their nasty old steel wool in there. So anyhow, we'll leave that there. Let's check the heat exchanger. Let's make sure it's safe to operate and don't waste a lot of time on it if it ain't safe. Make sure all our wire nuts are good to go. That comes right from the wall through there. No switch out here, so sometimes they'll put it on the wall, but they didn't. So let's go ahead and check the heat exchanger real quick. These were pretty reliable. Nothing in the primary. Can't see real great in the other side. Now the problem is you can't see all the way up in here. So we'll watch it to see if there's any disturbances, but other than that primary section there, which I knew is gonna be a problem later down the road, eventually you're gonna have to try to either look through your limit there on the fan limit and inspect it, or basically watch for any fan disturbances or flame disturbances when the fan comes on. Let's go ahead and check the flame sense signal now. I guarantee it's gonna be low and we'll check it after we're done. All right, got my magnet switch on there, which that's down in my toolbox area in my description of the video. So we've got it hooked on the meter there with our leads. So hooked through there to there, we're checking microamps and let's see what we have first. All burners lit, microamps are 0.8, 0.7, 0.5, they're dropping, that's not gonna work. And it should drop out here any moment. Yep, so it did. So we know for certain that that is our problem. Now we could have just cleaned it and moved on. This is reassurance that the board's working correctly and we'll see what the difference is when we're done. So let's go ahead and pull that flame sensor out of there. This is where your right angle tool comes in handy. Got the power off, we'll be able to get right in here. Like that, put an extension on the end of that and just undo it. I kinda recommend doing this by hand. You could do it with your drill, but not a good idea. If it's too aggressive. I did switch back to my 11-1, but if you notice, that works out just nice. So we've got the flame sensor out. It really doesn't look that bad. Lank has always been good about not damaging the metal because it gets too hot, like some brands out there. It really does not look that dirty. It really doesn't, there you can get a good angle at it. We're gonna go and clean that up with my stainless steel brush that I like. Once again, I think I have these in the toolbox thing. Nothing special about it, stainless steel. Brass has a tendency to leave residue behind. Stainless steel doesn't scratch anything up. And like I've said a million times, you can run that thing right on your skin and it doesn't hurt your skin. So it's not gonna hurt the metal there. We've got it all cleaned up. We just ran the brush on there. You know, like you can see, there's no grooves in my metal. Nothing's grooved up. So go ahead and get that back in there. We'll check microamps and then we're gonna go through and we're gonna give them some value for their money because this didn't take very long to do and nobody wants to feel like it was a simple job and you paid all this extra money for somebody to come out. So we're gonna do a safety check on everything. We're gonna check our electrical. We're gonna check, make sure our capacitor's good to go. Make sure our amp draws right on the draft motor and blower motor. Just gonna go through and double check all of our connections in here. Make sure they're all tight on the board. Make sure that thermostat doesn't have the plastic underneath the screw. That's a problem I see all the time. So we've got that done. So let's go ahead and get this back in there and we'll recheck it and we'll continue forward. Got that back in there. So I'll hook it back up. We'll shove our little magnet back on and let's watch it try over again. On, off, on and off. Got a little bit of a whine to it. Let's see what our microamps here are now. It's a little dusty so we're gonna clean that out there too. These igniters, the resistance on them are a little bit odd. I've not found that to be successful as far as it determining when they're gonna go out. They last forever. And there's that. Microamps are higher. Almost a full one point setting. It's usually you'd think it'd be higher than that. But we've more than double, almost doubled it over what it was before. So that's a lot better than what it was. Now they already are grounding this. One of the old sayings they used to say, what's mean and green, it makes a pulse run mean. That was the ground wire. And they would always ground their stuff real close to the burners, which is pretty standard now. But it works its way all the way back up here to the board. Everything in here is live in my voltage for the most part. So keep your fingers out of there. You can see the heat is getting a little bit warm on that rubber. It's starting to dry rot a little bit. It's not cracked yet. If you were to mess with it, there's a good chance it may crack. So just holding in at one point eight area. So I'd say we probably got that problem fixed. It's not gonna get a whole lot better. Only thing you could try to do is see if grounding it better would make a difference, which I don't think it would. That was why I built this one here. It's my meter lead turned into a nice big old jumper. You could actually come down here, clamp right onto the bell. We're at 1.9 now. Come right up here to where the ground wire is itself, which is on the backside of that. It's too close to get in that. That's high voltage up here on top. So let's just go here. It's not gonna make a difference. So you know it's grounded. As good as it's gonna get grounded. So let's go ahead and get that undone. We'll go ahead and hook it. 1,002. So she shut down on flame since. Good to go there. Now Lennox never waited for the whole blower to completely bring the temperature down. It'll try to reignite here in a couple seconds. The spark ignition was even quicker yet. So hot list delays. They were straight to the point. It's been running for a little bit. We'll go ahead and leave this valve off. Let's go ahead and continue on with the other checks. You don't see me use this very often, but where do you think this one came from? Look familiar. So yeah, it comes in handy. If you ever get one that you're throwing away, salvage that. It comes in handy. Save you 10 bucks, 15 bucks, whatever they sell for. So let's go ahead and hook this thing back up. All right, look what we just found. Capacitor should be five microfarads. It comes in at 1.9. So did we just save them a service call for later? Sure did. So let's go ahead and get that capacitor changed. All it would have taken to make this thing run to clean the flame sensor. We just did the customer service by checking that. So let's go ahead and get that replaced and recheck it then. We could check it before and after on the amperage too, if you're curious to see what happens. All right, we're gonna go ahead and jump G just to see what it is on high speed. See what kind of amperage we get. Just for a couple of seconds here to see what we are. But the door off don't matter. It's gonna be the same scenario to compare it against. These actually run a different fan speed for G. That's one of the, let's see how it is now. 3.7 amps, once it went up to cooling speed, back down to fan speed, G speed. So 3.7, let's see what it does when we get done. We got a brand new Mars capacitor there. It's rated for five and we're at 5.1. Let's go ahead and get that installed real quick. So we got that back in there. Let's put it back together. What it's gonna do is it's gonna try to ramp up the fan, back the fan, blah, blah, blah. But eventually it's gonna drop down to the fan speed for the blower to continuously run. It stabilizes doors off just like it was before. Prior to, we were at 3.7 amps. They were at 0.1. So we've dropped it a little over half an amp of current that we saved them. Not a lot, but it's likely even a light bulb run. So not bad. We did them a service for a $10, $15 part for a capacitor. Anyhow, we know that we made a difference on that. So let's go ahead and get that off of there. And let's go ahead and let it run. Let's check our motor though first. Make sure the end of it's clean, which is a little bit dirty on the end. What else have we got in there? Look at that, what's that right there? Looks like a piece of duct tape or something. So we'll get that out of there. Yep, something in there. Let's get that out of there. That's where these little gizmos come in handy. That right there ought to be just fine. Grab this little rag. Go clean it off. Let's get back in there and work on this with that. Get a hold of it and finally got it. Here we go. See, silver tape. Notice that I don't know how to do the sheet metal. Everyone's favorite silver tape. So now we should be able to get in there and get that motor wiped off with a rag and that plier should make it a lot easier. All right, so we got everything cleaned out. It's better than what it was. It's just getting old. The motor looks a lot better on the end there. That's much grease now, catching all the dirt. We've already checked all of our wires. Make sure they're tight. Let's go ahead and put the door back on and make sure this thing runs. Probably not a big deal, but at 20 years old, I'll put on there the draft motor, so I'm a little funny. Need to replace a bunch of things on something that's already pretty old and it's about ready to need to replace here before long unless they need it. And Linux has always known for making a lot of noise on the draft motor. Watch and see how an accident blower comes on. And it disturbance, but it went away. So bothersome. It's pretty well sealed. Let's check, see if we can see anything through that limit spot there. That was quite a bit more than what I'm used to. And I mean, it could have been some air leakage down here on the bottom. I can feel some out here. The door's open over here, which goes right out to the garage. So we'll shut that. Let's go ahead and put this thing back down again. All right, so we pulled that out and you can see in there pretty decent. At least the first two. There's one over here on the side, but I don't see any impingement marks or anything where we were looking at. I got in there real good with my flashlight and stuff. And if I had any signs or thought that there was anything causing that, more than just the dust and the air, dust being stirred up in the air, you can always pull the blower out and check it from the top. But I don't think it's gonna be the case because we really don't have any major wear in there. It's pretty even all the way across, all the same temperature looking in the metal. The metal looks like it's all been about the same temperature, even temperature. So I'm gonna say she looks fine. You can see the bottom half here, see the top all the way to there. So we're gonna put her back together and let her run. Just wanna make sure. All right, so I kicked on that time. I didn't have any of the disturbance on the planes. There's just a little bit of a flutter from the dust as much. No. Now that changes it, just a little bit of dust in the air. Yeah, so anyhow, we're gonna go check temperature rise. Got to go inside to get the closest register. Can't do it out here, it's too much radiant heat. I was able to check the evaporator coil from that hole there also and everything looked clean on that. 35 to 65 is the temperature rise on this thing. So let's go ahead and see what we get. Well that wraps that one up, pretty simple call. Just goes to show it's always good to check everything while you're there. Less chance of getting a call back. Temperature rise on that thing, I think was 46. It's good all the way up to 65. So we're nowhere near going to be tripping the limit switches or anything like that. We gave her a good, honest look over. Didn't just fix one problem that we went through and gave her a full service and nickels and dimes. So we gave her her money's worth. She was real happy and now we're heading on to the next one.