 What's up everybody, why'd you do that? What's up everybody, welcome back to another 3D Hangouts. I'm Noeva Revez, I'm a designer here, Adafruit, join me every week. It's my tea hydro. I'm not dehydrated. Hydrated brother. Good morning everybody, I'm Pedro. I was creative tech here at Adafruit and every week we're here to shoot a 3D printed project featuring electronics from Adafruit. That's right, this is where we combine 3D printing, DIY electronics, and some other things to make inspirational projects. Hello everybody hanging out in the discord chat room. Good morning, good evening, good afternoon, good night to everybody hanging around all over the world giving shout outs. Everybody hanging out in the discord at discord.gg slash Adafruit. Come on by, join the, what is it, 23,000? Thousands of folks, thank you everybody for tuning in live. We'll jump in throughout the show to if anybody has any questions or fun gifts, we love gifts. Good morning Trevor Flowers, good morning Mike P. Jim Hendrickson hanging out in the YouTube chat and Facebook as well. Come on by, say hi. Comments, questions will be answered there. Cool, I'm gonna run through some housekeeping so we can get the show started. First up, space and bills by hitting over to Adafruit.com slash free. You can find out all the different freebies that are going on this week. We have a half size breadboard for orders that are $99 or more. For orders that are $149 or more you get the half size breadboard plus the STEMFUT breakout board. If you have an account with Adafruit you'll make sure you don't get the same one twice, otherwise it's gonna be randomly selected. And for orders that are $200 or more you'll get the STEMFUT breakout, the half size breadboard and free ground shipping for UPS in the continental US only. So check out Adafruit.com slash free as supplies last and we're working on getting more things made so hopefully we can add more stuff to the freebies. Next up, heading over to jobs.adafruit.com for the latest job postings. There's some new ones this week. From February we have Arduino Uno R3 code composite. It seems like a remote gig. We have a director of Idea Lab. Check that one out. Firmware engineer for battery management stuff in the San Jose area. Lead hacker for a hacker club in the Vermont area. All cool things. So check it out at jobs.adafruit.com. Once a week we have a newsletter that's focused on the products. Head on over to adafruit.com slash new new newsletter, or just newsletter, sorry. It's called the new new newsletter. Adafruit.com as we can go to subscribe to different categories to get daily emails sent in your inbox. One of our favorite ones is the Python and microcontrollers newsletter. Shout out to everybody for subscribing to that one. And big shout outs to Ann Borrella for putting this together. I think that's gonna do it for the housekeeping. Let's jump back over to Discord. Just another announcement for Discord. More shout outs, everybody hanging out and joining out, Gary G. Hello. Kevin's Mac, Jalen, Kevin, McLeer. Good morning, everybody. Thank you for all joining. Let's go ahead and jump into this week's, sorry, this week's project. Super clicky project. The Nintendo Switch, no, just kidding. So this was completely ripped off from Elgato's new Stream Deck pedal. Why subtle for theirs when you can make your own. So a couple of years ago, we made a foot pedal that has gathered some dust. I think it was made with the M-Zeros. You wanna show that? The Trinket M-Zero, yeah. Trinket M-Zero. So a couple of years ago when CircuitPython version two, we wanted to make a USB HID foot switch and at the time, CircuitPython was brand new, right in development, so we were really happy to make this little 3D printed foot switch. It uses the Trinket M-Zero. It's these two pieces that are printed. You have these built-in hinges and one of the things we found is you actually don't need a spring for this style of thing. We found that these premium Zippy switches, these micro switches, have really nice actuators that have built-in spring mechanisms inside the button itself. So we figured we'd refresh this design for the QtPy RP2040. QtPy is our favorite kind of microcontroller that runs CircuitPython and you can still do this with the Trinket M-Zero. It's just we wanted to use the QtPy because those chips are readily available. So Pedro thought, you know what, since the release of the Elgato foot switch, why don't we make this into three switches? So he redesigned the case to make three separate switches here. So we have our QtPy RP2040 right there with a little 3D printed plate that is a separate piece that gets fastened with some screws here. So that way you have a modular PCB plate so you can switch out the microcontroller. So you want to use a QtPy2040 or an Arduino Nano or something like that. You can switch that out if you'd like. Some additions that we made is we're really big fans of AT-TAC, AT-Makers. So we figured we'd put these three audio jacks, these TRS audio jacks. They're not for audio, they're for AT switches. So that's how that's working there. So there is a micro switch on the bottom of these three pads. Really, really easy to actuate them. No springs needed. And I don't think you need any supports either. You're gonna need a 3D printer that has a bed of about 300 millimeters or 10 inches. But other than that, you can print this out and customize the design if you'd like as well. Yeah, really like how clicky it is and I guess the big revelation was no springs. So that was one of the things that we kept seeing back in the feedback for the guide. People asking what was the sides for the springs. And there's so many that we had to get a whole kit and figure out which one it was. But in the end, it didn't even matter which one because there's already a spring inside the switch. So just rest right on top and we have a little pivot point on the bottom here. So if we go ahead and take a look inside. This guy here, just bend these guys. You can see the way that everything's laid out. It just rests right on top here. Pivots along these two extrusions. And you have these little dimples that hold the, what do we call these lids, buttons in place. So it just rotates around that with enough space to not have any grinding going on with the new PLA parts all grinding again. Geezer, I forget who had mentioned that. They had tried printing a foot switch before three printed one. It was just filament scraping against each other. Yeah, you just see clearances between your made in surfaces. The dimples are at a 45 degree angle. So they print without any supports. They're thick. You can see here. Yeah, they're super thick. You have fillets and chamfers that are providing extra strength. Like you were saying before, you can switch out the microcontroller. So you can use something like the Keeby 2040. If you want to swap this out and all of the ports and everything line up perfectly. You just gotta print a separate little snap in holder. These are super easy to print out the fast. So if you want to switch these out for an available board, it's one of the things we have to do now in 2020 and the 2022 with components shortages, we gotta make sure that everything is swappable for a different available board. So same thing with the brackets that are holding the switches in place. Everything can be swapped out for different one because I did notice these were out of stock. And then to make it even more modular, I think last time you actually had to solder to the little tabs on here. Yeah, the terminals. The terminals. So now that we have these arcade quick connect cables, much prefer using this method instead. That's great. And then the other way too to make this even more modular too is I don't think we stock these, but I did build these female quick connect cables. So if you want to swap this out, you're not having to drag around all of the switches or anything else that's connected to it. You can have this nice little female to male adapter and just connect that in there like that. The Qtie Pi itself, I did not bring one, has ample amount of connections even with just their one ground connection that we have back here. You can actually use the cast-related pads too. Can focus on that. To actually connect two wires. You can get two wires on the inside of the little pins and then one on the outside on the cast-related part of that. So we have three ground connections to easily hook these up. And then if we required more, one of the things I like doing is just having one wire out and then having that ground split off into many ones. But I didn't want to have the wiring be too complicated. Enough room for these small TRS jacks to be mounted right next to each other. If you just want one, perfect. Three, no problem. You can even have three on each side of these if you wanted to. And what else do we talk about? I think that's pretty much it. The construction of this, like we were saying, is super happy with not having to need any springs because as you can see, you have a nice amount of space on the base, but you would definitely fill that up. The other thing too is that I like that we don't have to cut any of these wires. They can just loop around and look nice and elegant, nice packed away without having to have everything look like a nest. So again, the little dimples. Again, the little dimples that it pivots around. Very good. Accidental way that we found that out that you don't require springs. Right, the original design, I had like a little holder for the spring and then I just realized when I didn't have it in there and I was playing with it like, oh, it doesn't really need it. Cause like we said, there's a really spring in there. There's a nice spring in it. A type of spring. I don't know if it's exact coiled spring but it's something in there. It could be just a metal kind of thing. Kind of like how you see the mechanical key switches from Terramax, kind of how they have like a metal wire inside that kind of, that's probably what they have inside. You're having to take apart these switches but probably a similar thing. Yeah, so super. One of the things to accommodate when you're making these things is like the USB port has to have a really big port. So when you actually push it down, like you have to have enough room here for your USB port. So this is the trinket. Yours is the USB-C connector, which I'm a huge fan of. Yes, that's actually why we had to switch this out. So if you don't need a three button switch, no, I did update it and we have now compatible. So with the trinket, but now you can have the... Yeah, the PewDiePie. PewDiePie in there. Pretty similar design. So let me crack it open here. You got your hinges with the dimples in there. So let's just print without any supports. And then we have the same bracket here for the Zippy switch. Notice that it's mounted horizontally and sort of vertically this way. PewDiePie bracket is right there. Got some screws in there with some nuts just so that you can have a really nice, secure fitting. And it's easy to take the PCB, the PewDiePie out of the PCB bracket because it has those snap fit corners. So it's easy to flex it open and bring it in and out if you need to. Other than that, I have some fins here just so it prints a little bit quicker. And then the top here, the top is kind of, it's got this weird shape, right? It's got a lot of these surfaces that are angled and stuff. So the thing here is that you do need some support material. Oops. But it actually ends up being okay because this surface is what gets printed with support material. It actually adds this nice rough texture. So if you're putting it, if your foot's touching it, you get a nice tactile feel and textured surface. So a little bit of support material for this guy, but these days support material works up pretty well and this flat surface is what touches the bed. So it actually prints at an angle like that. But yeah, that's the updated single button foot switch. Really, really simple. Still really, really modular. We definitely recommend rubber feet at the bottom there. Let's just stick on there. No need for screws or anything on that. Just metal feet. Peter's got a nice set over here. Yeah, you can just flex this and those hinges fit into those dimples there and it pivots from there and no scraping. Very little friction. Yeah, so it's probably even good like as a kind of a game show buzzer. Like it's just a nice thing to kind of actuate. In the video we tried to show our dog and a baby, other animals and things. Yeah, so we think that's a good method to do it without any springs. Quick question from Kevin's Mac asking, is the PLA sweaty foot proof? Funny that you mentioned that when you're talking about the vented looking one, you can actually stick a fan inside there and have it vent off, cool down your feet. So that's a nice little modification that you can do to that one or even this one. Have a little fan inside there. This is a little bit smaller. I just made it bigger because I feel like, the figure, it just needs to be wind out for those, for these tabs here on the PCBs. But yeah, pretty similar design. So yeah, let's take a look at the learn guide. Real quick, Rolves is asking, were the TRS ports, was it drilled in? No, it is part of the design. Yeah, they're just holes. And you can see the diameter for the sketches. You can move these around. You can have them over here. Go ahead, take one out. There's a hex nut. You just unscrew the hex nut. The panel mounts, the panel mounts was really easy to do, which is nice. See if I can get this with my finger. Yeah, I don't have a wrench. No, I got it. So these are great little TRS jacks. They're really, really thin. They're like made out of brass or something nice. And the legs are labeled with some pins. Yeah, so they sit in, obviously the opposite way, but you can see the tolerances are just big enough to fit that through. There's a threaded, these are threaded for the little washer there, or the nut. Yeah, but they do TRS, so they can do stereo, mono, and in this case, we're using it to just do an AT switch, we have one in the other room, but it's just a very low force switch that has a mono jack. It's kind of a standard thing in the AT world. Not these, it has like a mono, but you can see the clearance between all of the jacks here. That's what that looks like. Cool, and then this is a good way to adapt an existing switch for AT for this. What's cool is that you can have like the caretaker, that caretaker who has the ability to activate the, or actuate the switches along with the patient. Okay. So a nice little way to have like a dual usage at once. And I think, yeah, let's go ahead and jump into the guide, take a look how this is constructed, all the files and links on all of that. Let me go ahead and get ready to post that. Yep, on our review page, you can see all the parts that are used in the project. Right now we're out of stock on these micro switches, but you can get them on Amazon if you just search for a micro switch. So if I'm coming with different little bits that you might have to chop off, like those angled, great, I had to do that with mine. They have these things in them. Whoa, what things? So we don't have these in stock, but if you buy them on Amazon, I was able to find one of these guys. See that red thing? See it's red, it's different. Yeah, I was gonna mention. It's a different switch. If they come with these like metal levers and you just rip that off, just rip off your lever. We also sell these with levers. Maybe you could buy that one and rip off the thing. I haven't tried that, but just the word is wise, some of them come with levers and you don't really need it in this project. So lots of micro switches out there in the world of Amazon. And again, the whole reason why we have it connected through a bracket is if whatever micro switch you manage to get, if there are differences in the mounting holes, you can just update the bracket. Yeah, these micro switches come in lots of different flavors but I found that the mounting holes tend to be consistent, which is really great. So a lot of these come with just different force, like they have different reading of new force, like how much force does it take to actuate it? There's a little diagram there, just a reference. Yeah, look at all these different Zippy switches, right? Some of them, a lot of them that I found in Amazon have this lever. That's the lever you're talking about. Yeah, you just rip that off, no worries. I can't remember where, I remember doing that exact same thing, right? And just rip off the lever. Yeah, just rip it off, yes. You can see the mounting holes are the exact same, and yeah. Yep, 22.2. That's where I saw it. The midi guitar. There you go, yeah, we used the midi guitar as the switch for the strumming. Yeah, so you can get these out, the one without the thing, we just, we bought a lot of them, so you can get them when they come back in stock or fashion your own using one of these. Yeah. However, the QT Pi is in stock, which is great. Let's see the QT Pi in stock. The KB2040 is in stock as well. Yeah, these are key buttons. These are the lightsabers right here. This is a jam, look at this. They even show it in the photo, bam. Yeah, so these little tabs can be pulled on and off. I mean, attached and you can rip them off if you want. Probably be careful doing that though, because you get a pretty nice, tight fitting. And these JST are a little bit different. They're JST 2.5 millimeters, so they're different than the battery connectors, but they're gonna work with some other things like the arcade stem on board, for example. But in this case, you kind of fashion your own. Do we have any female connectors? I don't believe we do. No, we don't. Here we go. Here, you can create your own. Using this kit, these are adaptable. They come with the female, see that female one? So you would just wire into those. But yeah, it's the JST XH 2.5 millimeter pitch. The two pin? Yeah, so you can make your own female wire with this kit. Whoa. Yeah, we're stepping into the weeds here with that. I think the kit we have has different colors too, so I went with the red. Just so you could tell it apart from the base. Okay. Yeah, that's a main note of the parts. All right, next up, we'll go up to the circuit diagram. Each pin gets wired to one of the digital pins or the analog pins. In this case, it's using one, two, and three, I believe. So you can check that out. The Zippy Switch itself has labels on it. You want to connect to your common ground and normally open. So normally open and switch, that way when you actuate it, it closes. So that's what you want to use. In the circuit diagram page, or the circuit Python page, just walks you through installing the latest version of Circuit Python onto your RP2040 QtPy. Really simple to get into the boot builder mode. Just drag and drop it. You have two files, install the latest version of Circuit Python. Pretty straightforward. The code is hosted on GitHub. You can check it out. It's kind of just a modified example code, particular to the pins on this board and the keys. But this is, instead of using the key codes from the USB HD library, it's using the consumer controls from the HD library, which allows you to do media controls. So play, pause, volume, brightness, that sort of thing is what's mapped to the buttons. So that's what we're using it for. Just kind of be like as a music player thing. So you can customize this and check out the Read the Docs link here. This one shows you all of the available, it's kind of like a cheat sheet for all the key codes and consumer controls. There's also some mouse things that you can do, like mouse, click, right click, that sort of thing. And movements. Yeah. This just shows you a, I'm looking for the list. Some around here. Okay, the list is somewhere of all the available commands. Yeah, I think over here, key code, API reference. Yeah, here's all the key codes. So you can look through all them, all the F function keys, forward keys. There's some key pads, specific things, like equals and backspaces and space bars, all those things you can do. And there's some examples there. It does do some ASCII-driven stuff. Yeah, so all the documentation there and you can take some of that if you want some specific key commands. Cool, so that's the code in the nutshell. Let's check out the printing page. No supports, right, for anything on this one anyway? I'm like glued on to this. So there's just some STLs you can download. Anything else? Yeah, so it's gonna take, I think about five hours for the base and each button will take about an hour and then the middle button will take about two hours. And there's nothing special, no support material or anything like that. Just whatever your preferred PLA settings should do just fine. Same thing with the infill. I don't believe there's any infill. It's all top and bottom shells. So it should be good to go with that. Okay, you're gonna need a big printer. I think I said that in the beginning, 10 inch. I think it's about, yeah, 10 inches or like 220, 230 millimeters. No, one that's like 260. There you go, 260 millimeters. Yeah, so that's just what it is because it's a big thing. Yeah, yeah, yeah. I was trying to, I was, they'll got to. Exactly, yeah. This should be like big enough, like the middle space or middle bar should be like as big as wide as like a normal foot. I would think with just a little bit spacing on each side. And then these are a little bit taller so you can detect which one you're about to push as you're just feeling with your foot around. Like feel the shape of the buttons. So yeah, it should be big enough just for the foot and not as wide like the stream deck one. So that is the only modification to the design that it did. All files are there. You can go in there and actually edit any of the shapes that you want so you can have a different looking layout. Add as many brackets for switches as you want. Okay, cool. We're down to the assembly like you were saying before. Super easy to attach the brackets. You're just gonna need an M3 by 16 millimeter long screw. Two of those guys to insert it. You want to hook up your arcade quick connect buttons first before you mount it onto the main base with the additional M3 five millimeter long screws and are gonna probably suggest doing the metal ones, the nylon ones might melt or something like as you're tapping them and screwing it in. I do have a little bit of tolerance to the mounting holes just so you can, the screws will be able to bite into it. Like we were saying earlier before, the ground pads, you should have enough room to solder three of those together and all of the pins, it's just A1 through A3 for your connections. Cool. Nice little way how the board snapped into that. I think you've shown this enough. It's just super satisfying to see how they just press fit right into the walls. We're just showing the KB2040 here. And yeah, it just press fits in there. You have like a nice little, it's sunken in here so it has enough room for any connections that you might make on there. And then a nice little out the bottom there. So super simple to snap that in with all of your little cutouts for your Stemma connection and your USB. Nice. Moving on over to actually mounting that on there. It should line up to the USB port and then you can mount all of your other switches and of course your TRS audio jacks if you are going that route. If you're not gonna need it, you can obviously edit the base file and just knock out those holes if you don't need them. Cool. Next up, like we were saying earlier, the way that these little divots push in to the little extrusions there and they just pivot along that. You have enough for the, the base is thin enough. Just grab this one so I don't take it apart again. It's just 1.5 millimeters thick. So it does have. Yeah, there's some flex there. Some flex really. So you can flex these in so you can have more room to push in the center one. Something here. Something on these. They flex just a little bit. So they flex in and out. So you can attach your little divots. Yeah. I'm only gonna do it maybe once or twice. So you're not gonna be doing it. You're not gonna be taking it apart all the time. We are, but for showing it off. Just showing that the strength of the PLA which we are using that glittery PLA from everyone. Yep. And that's pretty much it. That's remember feet. That's remember feet. You're gonna need two sets of these unfortunately. I did have it with just four feet on there but the center, it's so long that it will deform every time you push down on it. So add those two extra feet in the middle and you should be set. Cool. That's pretty much it. That's pretty simple build. Yeah. Remarkably simple. The longest thing is gonna be the printing because like I was saying before, when was it five to six hours? Seven, eight, nine, 10, 12. A day of printing. Yeah, about a day of printing. Yeah, each one of these take about two hours and a half to print. The single switch one, so even still, it's still gonna take time. And as you can see here, we do have that texture on here from the PEI, powder coated texture plate. So definitely recommend using that. Otherwise it'll look nice and sort of slippery. So definitely wanna go with a texture feel. The other thing you can do if you do, if you don't have the powder coated and you can only print something that's nice and smooth vinyl, you can add some vinyl decals on there. I don't think it'll stick as good to the textured surface, but the glass and PEI should stick perfectly. And I think that is it. Nice little simple build, super useful and a nice way to update one of the past projects with something that Elgato did really good on what they're marketing like, oh my God. A foot switch, I never thought of a foot switch with three buttons. So definitely shout out to them for coming out with a really good product. Cool, so check out the guide if you wanna download the files. Yeah, if you wanna remix it, you can also remix it on any of the repo sites. Yeah, the step files, Fusion 360 files all there. Maybe add some cool, what is it, the lattice structures for some cool generative little textures on it would be cool. And that's this week's project. All right, cool. You wanna jump into what are you prototyping? All right, let's go ahead and jump into what are we prototyping? Okay. Is it me, you? What's up? Oh, yeah, we got the party parent. This is a dope trope using the Cricut and a motor. We got some three different parts to make everything kind of work together. Let me turn it on real quick. You're gonna hear a little bit maybe of the motor going on. There's no long switch, there it is. The lighting's a little bit difficult here, but the latest is that it uses the photo interrupter sensor to track which frame it's on. Wow. So there's an encoder ring on the cover of the acrylic, and that encoder ring is passing through the photo interrupter. So every time the ring rotates, it knows that it's moving a frame because there's a notch. So that's how it's able to change the colors using the photo interrupter to advance the colors. So it steps through a rainbow color here. Again, it's very difficult to kind of see with the lighting and everything here, but it looks really great in person. And because it's acrylic, you're gonna run into things like reflections from the windows and whatnot, but the effect is pretty good here, I think. I'm trying to fix the, I don't know, the exposure. It's very difficult, as you can see, it's very hard, but the effect is kind of there. So the party pair is 10 frames. Each frame has been etched on a piece of acrylic. The acrylic can be laser cut, can be CNC milled, and it's just kind of a cool way to kind of show a zoetrope with this edge lit acrylic. It looks pretty cool. The Cricut, the 80-foot Cricut has the feather there, and it just makes adding neopixels, adding a motor, adding a sensor, all really easy plug-and-play. So everything's just connected to the screwblock terminals and just there's header pins that connect to the digital pins there. And the Cricut's just a great little platform for doing these type of experiments where you want to have a motor running. You need your motor driver. You need all this other crap. The Cricut has everything built-in, so you have your neopixel driver, your motor driver, your, all the things that you need, really. So really, really cool. Liz put together the code for this one. It's all done in Circuit Python. And everything's 3D printed. The gear, the gears are all 3D printed. There's a couple of hardware screws throughout the thing, but there's no like bearings or anything. It's all just working with the 3D printed bit. There's no friction too, because we added a little bit of grease to the track. But yeah, let's switch. I'm powering it by this adjustable power supply here. We really recommend these power supplies. It goes from five volts to 24 volts. You can adjust it. I think it's got like two amps or so, but that's what you need. You need at least five volts and two amps to power your Cricut and your Feather at the same time, just with one power DC jack. Let's see if we can wrap around here. So this is gonna be next week's project, so we'll have way more stuff, but just real quick, I wanted to show you, this is the encoder rings. You see that notch there? That notch passes through the photo interrupter. So this is the T-slot photo interrupter, and there's a IR LED in there, and every time it breaks the beam, that's how it tracks it. The motor here is just your toy DC motor. It's a TT motor. It's just grounded voltage, it's a five volt motor. This is a 3D printed gear that just press fits over there, and then inside the ring, the kind of holder for the acrylic has another gear here. It's kind of like a herringbone style gear, and all the acrylics just get press fitted into these little slots on the top cover. But yeah, the base here, all it does is it really holds the motor, and then this is the cover that's kind of the rail, and then there is a little lip here, and this lip is what's sliding inside of this groove, inside that top cover, and that's really it, and that's really kind of how it works. As long as you kind of add a little bit of grease to the rail and the groove, it works pretty well. It works pretty well. You just kind of have to adjust it for the gears to meet, and once they engage, then you're ready to try it out. That's a quick look at the prototype. We're, like I said, next week's project, Mr. Learn Guide. Party parrot. You were like, cool. Again, it's hard to film acrylic. It's hard to film acrylic and lights. Let's film lights with acrylic. What a great thing. There's other reflections. You get to do all these bounce cards and block out all of the reflections. That's why we kind of fashion this little thing here, because without it, you're just gonna see right through it. It's like, where did it go? We're gonna have to make a bigger one. Yeah, we're gonna make a bigger one here. But yeah, there's some fun things you can do with it. I should have been charging my tank for the next prototype. Oh, right. I can take any questions if anybody has any. That's it. Somebody was asking a really quick drone-related question on their power bank cutting in and off. You know, like how sometimes you'll plug in a thing and into the power bank and then it shuts off after a little bit. Just asking how to keep the power going. I think that's, I'm not sure. Some of our batteries are just built that way. You just have to get a new battery base that we fix. That is how we fix it. Yeah, you just get a new battery, which is a bad thing to say, but. We can link to one that we use when we have to keep something on. Yeah, like the 2,200 ones, the blue lipstick ones, those tend to run well. But then like some of the white battery banks that we sell, those tend to shut off as you're like trying to record something. So the blue ones are really nice. I don't have that link, I don't have that. Bringing it up right now. So this one, right? The lipstick one. Yeah, yeah, that's the best one. Let's see for the drone project. Try that one there. And that's the one we use when we need to, or when we run into that problem. Yeah, these battery banks are good. They tend to run at low voltages. They'll keep running at low voltages. In other words, another one. I think it's this one that doesn't, right? Like one of these white ones that don't, doesn't stay on. I feel like a Neopixel project, which is a bummer. Any hoodle. Good question. All right, cool. I think this has been charging next up on the prototyping. I don't know where Phil found this, but it was like, oh, check out this cool, like glowy. Yeah, it's like jewelry accessories. It's like on Etsy. Yeah, it's like a jewelry accessory thing. And one of the suggestions that the seller was saying was like zipper pulls. Sure. He was using the glow in the dark pigment filament with a, what they used was like a CNC'd little container for it. So of course, we're gonna three print a little container for it and then turn it into something that could be a wearable. One of the easiest things with this shape is a like a little zipper pull. So have this attached to a zipper pull with the, I think it's like the industrial grade glow in the dark stuff that's in there. All right, so this is a vial that you could buy from an art store. Okay, the vial is. I'm about to pop it out. There's a bunch of vials. It's transparent. We're not gonna 3D print a transparent thingy because it's not gonna look as transparent. So you can find a bunch of these vials that are plastic and they have like these little cork things. So the thing is that you have this powder and it's fluorescent powder. Here's the vial. You get it at an arts and crafts store. And where's your purple light? So you get this really cool, glowy thing without having to use an LED or a battery. It just glows at night. So our 3D printed add-on just creates a nice covering and nice sleeve and nice dress shirt for your jewelry or accessories. So one of the first thoughts I had was, well, we have glow in the dark film and why don't we use that? But again, that's not 100% of just the luminous pigment. You're like mixing it with the PLA and whatever additives that they have on here. So this is just the glow in the dark stuff. So it is able to charge a lot more better and keep its glow longer than the glow in the dark PLA could. Obviously we're doing the UV light here because the sun is not shining today. But it has a really nice effect to it. It lights up a room in the dark. It's how good this stuff is. But yeah, it's a nice little wearable project. It's still nice and cold out. So everybody has their hoodies on if you want to customize it. Cool for crops as well. There were some other jewelry here. Yeah, there were some other things. Yeah, exactly. Like ear rings and I don't know what other. There's some other suggestions that we're saying. Yeah, a jar sleeve, exactly. There's a bunch of other different sizes that you can attach this to. And these pigments supposed to be for additives for like doing nail polish or doing some other paint. Yeah, is it like mica powder? Yeah, yeah, it is. It is mica powder? Yeah, it's like thin. Like the- Oh, it's fine dust. It's fine dust. Yeah, so definitely be careful when using this stuff around. I think Lamar is gonna try to stock this so we won't have this in the shop. We have some fluorescent pigment already. Did you try using that stuff? The fluorescent no, this is glow in the dark. That's probably why she wants to stock it because we have fluorescent. I think we have two different types of fluorescents or pigments, but no glow in the dark. Yeah, Lamar is a fan of arts and crafts projects and like having stuff for young makers and kids and students is really nice. So having that in stock I think makes sense. Yeah, I guess we'll go into the weeds next week or whenever we release the project in terms of modeling this, trying to use the generative design, the lattice structures. Fusion 360. Fusion, yeah. Maybe you should try Blender. I tried Blender. Yeah, I just learned Blender. I couldn't do the radius of this right at the first step. I'm like, all right, I need this to be 10 millimeter radius for this. And then I couldn't figure out how to do that in Blender. It's a challenge to print something like this, to be honest. The setting up the vernoi structure would have been easier inside of Blender, but I couldn't even get past the first step of getting the diameter right. There's really little tin chucks. Yeah, that would be a good one. Yeah. All these ideas. But I think the most useful wearable one is the hooter zippy pole zipper hoodie. Come on. Can't make it more brighter. Maybe take some, I don't know. It's the cameras. It's cameras? Yeah. I feel like those special cutters. That is what we're prototyping. Yeah, cool. That's the weeks we're at Types. Next week we'll be, I think, Zopchop and then some fun glow-in-the-dark stuff. We've got some other projects. All right, real quick. Question about adding a counterweight to the hood switch to prevent it from slipping away. Yeah, I thought I could do that. Yeah. Well, that's what the rubber feet are for. You can get a, let's see, maybe a piece of brass or something at the bottom. Secure it down. Yeah, something. We haven't had any problems with it slipping away in terms of. That's another thing you can do. You know, adding more like washers or something at the bottom somehow. Yeah, you can do that. Yeah. Yeah, we'll see a lot of the bases for, let's say like your soldering iron. They have like a metal plate that's been added. It's literally just added to the plastic bit. That way it keeps it weighed down. Plenty of room in here to add some sort of weight to counterbalance our heat set insert. We used pennies. You can use pennies, dimes, whatever you want. That's money, but you know what I mean. Washers is another one. I think somebody used BBs before. You used BBs. Oh, yeah, yeah, yeah. So, lots of different ideas there for you, but we didn't weight down ourselves because we didn't run into that issue. Yeah, we didn't run into that issue. Especially when you're on grass, when you're on carpet. But even downstairs and the... Yeah, these grippy feet work really well. It doesn't need to be heavy unless you're like, you know, doing some weight. I mean, there's the weight. If you're drumming, if you're like an instrument, then yeah, you probably want to weight down. I mean, the weight of all the components in there is, this isn't light. Just drill it into your floor. You see that too? You can't move it. Cool, but yeah, grippy feet all the way for sure. And then Andy Kelleway saying that, yep, Blender is not faint-hearted. Yeah, he's learning it. This is coming from a Maya user. Yeah, I've tried it and I was like, nope. Where's my sketches? It does have the Maya command. So that's the only way I'm able to navigate around there is by using that. Yeah. You're switching all my commands. Okay, cool. All right, I guess we'll put some lights on. Yeah, please do. All right, let's go ahead and jump into this week's community maze. Nope, we got shop talk before that. Shop talk. We got some fun things that we want to share. Some online STL generator things that are really fun. Huge shout out to Andrew Sink who developed these. The first one I'm taking a look at is a low res. You go to lowpoly.3d.xyz and you can upload STL models with this online tool. You can disseminate low polygonized different STL. So I brought in this STL from one of our D20 projects. There's a bunch of numbers floating around. So with the little slider here, you can decimate. You can add the decimate percentage and just get a look at like what does a high resolution model look like. Add a little resolution. It's pretty cool. It's on GitHub. The source code is available. And Andrew Sink's been doing a lot of fun stuff with this. So cool little online thing to play with. And you can know that I think you can export the STL too. Of the model. Yeah, you can export your STL after you've decimated it. So if you don't want to use something like mesh mixer or Netfab or any of those other apps, you can do it on your browser, which is pretty fun. And the second one from Andrew Sink is this ASCII STL to ASCII fun generator tool. So again, it's online. It's hosted through GitHub. So the link for this one. Peter, could you add the links? I'm looking for these. Yeah, I don't, I never added them. Sorry, I just have the video. It's Andrewsink.github.io slash STL to ASCII generator. I've made a blog post about it. A lot of folks have been seeing it on the Twitters. I was supposed to talk about this last week, but I kind of, we ran out of time, but this week I'm talking about it. This is the exact same model that I brought in from the D20. And just looking at the STL, orbiting it around, it's really, really cool to see your STL's rendered in nothing but ASCII text. It's very, very neat. Here's an Adafruit logo with some T-splines that I modeled in Fusion. And it's just cool to see it rotating there and the shadowing and everything. It's really, really cool. You can create so many cool artworks in ASCII. It's pretty nuts. ASCII the world. You can really make out all sorts of shapes and now 3D geometry within your browser. Just don't use Safari, because it's too slow. But yeah, it was really, really cool. Shout out to Andrewsink for these super cool STL gadgets and gizmos, other than that's what I'm calling them. Chaddsink gizmos. Very, very cool. And that's Shop Talk. Has anyone had fun playing around with them? Let me know. It'd be fun to see. It took so long. It is case sensitive. Oh yeah, okay. Good suggestion on DePain's comment on the counterweight for the floor switch, anti-slip floor mat, then magnetic fixings glued underneath mat to hold it in place. That's a great idea. I never thought of that. Yeah, you can get those cheap magnet sheets. That's a really good idea. If you have a magnetic thing, oh, because it's magnet to magnet, so. Yeah, that's a cool idea. Yeah. Close out some of these tabs. Cool. Let's Shop Talk. How many else for Shop Talk? All right, cool. Oh, I do have somewhat of a Shop Talk thingy. I got rid of the Larable Layers. I used to have a thing for Larable Layers. It's gone. Let me post that. It's a Larable Layers. There is two of them that you can check out that have released in the past two weeks now. The latest one is taking a look at the QTPie snap fit case. Just looking at it, analyzing some things I learned and a couple of tips. So I'm gonna start doing that. I got a backlog list now. So I got a nice list of tutorials that I'll be doing for 2022. Basically just looking at all the products that were released over the year, going back to them, revisiting them and doing a little kind of analysis over how did you mount the electronics? How is it parametric? What's the method for making it scalable? And then any tips that you learned. So following that recipe, it's a little bit different. These are not super step-by-step. They're more like, here's some generic tips that I did in this actual project. Which folks seem to really like. I get a lot of comments. I like that you're actually showing us a real world example, not just a demo thing. It's a real thing. That's always the worst demo, because it's not real. There's always these edge cases that pop up every single time. Because I'm always designing for the print, for the thing, for the actual physical print. A lot of the other ones could be other things, but yeah, well, I'll keep that style on. I will do some more step-by-step actual things if I get a lot of, I don't know, comments or something. For some feedback, request. But for now, I think the easiest way is just to kind of talk through the thing and showcase some of the tips. So that's the latest on the layer-by-layer front. More coming soon. Woo-hoo. And I posted the link to the playlist, so you can check out the latest one. Yeah, thanks. I posted it on Monday. It's something like that on Monday, Tuesday. All right, it's great. I really appreciate everybody checking those out and dropping, even the small little comments, like, okay, people, this is a valuable thing. You know, these aren't like videos that we're tasked to do. We just do them because we want to and we're excited about what we've learned, so that's what's cool. It's definitely authentic. Yeah, a lot of it is for us. Very down-earth. Like, if things crash in Fusion, I'm like, I hate you, Fusion. You know, like, it's fine. It happens every day. It happens every day, yeah. All right, time for a community mix. Really cool, awesome. A current one for this week. We were right in the middle of watching the last episode of Boba Fett. Ah! I don't know what's happening. We didn't watch it. We don't know. We can't spoil anything. Just saying. Who did he choose? This is from Star Wars. It could be Boba Fett, we don't know. What is that cockpit in the back for? Who's that for? Yeah, so this is cool. This is the Mando's N1 to Boost Starfighter by Thingiverse user RuneCaster. He posted this up. Pedro took the model and split it in two so that he can print it without any support material. You can glue the two halves together since there's some flat surfaces to, put the glue on. And the seam actually goes well with the design. So it's actually kind of a nice method of printing something like this without any support material. Some of the Pedro really likes to do is take a model, split it, glue it later. It's really, really cool. And this is a fantastic model from again RuneCaster on Thingiverse. So let's take a look here on the overhead. Printed in some PLA, some glitter. Oh, the shiny. Just shiny silk, silver PLA. Lots of nice details. Supposedly with like the little vents and all like the engine thrusters and all that. Little turrets and a nice smooth body. Nice little futuristic retro. Show us the split. Oh, the splits right there because right along where this horizontal split actually is in the model. Which is great. You always want to split something wherever that fits the design. Yeah, so I split it actually three times one here. You can't even see the seam on the thrusters here, but that is a part of the split. You can see again in the time lapse. The whole reason I did this was because of the little tips that are printed here. When the printer gets to this section, the heat, the little heat zone around there becomes so much that it starts melting it. So that's why I got that. Do you see that here? No, you won't see it because it's split up. And then the reason why all that retraction there is the tip to the time lapse plus there was like a giant amount of filament that got stuck between the extruder and the fan nozzle or the exhaust for that. So definitely always look over your printer to make sure there's not like a bunch of PLA all like stuck in there like building up. Right. Now the method of getting these time lapses is the printer's head has to park and the camera has the delay timer on it for various reasons for exposure settings. So well, it's doing that's why they're stringing and that's why it takes forever to print because it's parking and waiting for the camera to actually physically take the picture. And I had a glob of PLA that was stuck inside of the fan shroud as well. So that's what happened. I was contributing to that. Plus the silk filament tends to be a little bit more stringy. And I just posted link to the remix of that. You could see right here to scroll down to the remixes I probably should have made it as a make right now. Well, here's the thing with Thingiverse. It's the same thing. No, it's broken. Oh, I have the link in the I just redressed it. Here we go. There was a remix. It said one and now it's a zero. Oh, so. I have the link here. All right. If it works. Oh, 404. It's gone. It literally deleted itself. It's Thingiverse. Supposed as a make or I'm going to try to post it as a link. But I split it up in three. This is why we can't post remixes because it just deletes it. Is it under makes now? Did they change it? At any point, such a cool model that I had to print two of these because the kids were already fighting over it. They're like, that's mine. No, that's mine. So make sure that it's like a higher infill just so that when the kids are playing with it, it doesn't break as easy. Okay. Cause yeah, it's definitely a really cool model fly around the house with this. Everyone's going to want one. Yeah. Download at your, what would you say? At your discretion or something? Cause the site might break tomorrow. Oh yeah. I think they posted it in different. Dude, I literally saw one remix. Guys, you guys saw it live. It said one. I clicked on it. They refreshed it. It was gone. I know. It's like, we have a 404 now. Last week when I posted it. Anyway, I'm going to stop. So shout out to again, single verse user, RuneCaster posted up their awesome model of Vamandos N1 Nebu Starfighter. All right. All right. Let's keep on going. Let's see. We have some other community makes. This was a really fun one. Very, very similar Star Wars. Lowell Spot, the 3D printing manufacturer, open source 3D printers. They reached out to us and said, can we post this up? I was like, absolutely freaking literally. One of their employees printed out the Tuscan Raiders staff that we designed. Very, very cool. It's taller than that. The thing. It's taller than the ladder. Oh, that's so cool. And it's today's Wednesday. So I'm going to be doing that. Very cool. So you can download your own Tuscan Raider thing. You can get a Lowell Spot too. Why not? All right. So shout out to Lowell Spot for sharing that. That is the way. Oops. Grab all these links. Okay. We've got another one here. This is a remix. Oh boy. Not the thing. It's just that loading this website is difficult. I should have them preloaded, huh? Well, it slows down the machine but I have all these tabs open. This is a remix by Noridoc. Noridoc posted up the remix on Thingiverse of our QT Pi, a kind of key button switch. So they modified it to have some ports opening for their stem of cables. So they could plug in an OLED display. They added some extra different switches in there as well. Here's what looks something in the inside. It's still using the QT Pi and the Neo Key, the one by four. Very cool. So you can check out this remix on Thingiverse. Shout out to Noridoc for posting that up. There's also some chat here. Here's some changes. So you can read through that. But yeah, very, very cool to see folks creating their own setup. All right. And then the last one this week, kind of a light week this week for makes. But hey, this was a really fun one. This is a Raspberry Pi. I'm okay with that Joe. Thank you. This is really cool. Make of the Raspberry Pi HQ Camera case. So you can three print some parts to enclose your Raspberry Pi four and a HQ Pi camera module. So this is printed on, printed with some really nice colors and it has a built-in tripod adapter. So if you're looking to fumble it around with your Pi and your HQ camera, three print these parts and you get a nice sturdy build for everything. So shout out to the person for posting this up. Reddick, I think it was. Wreckit, Wreckit posted this up. Yeah, printed in black and green. Timore PLA, you like the design? Thanks for making available. Well, thank you for posting it. So very, very cool. Yeah, I like that green. Yeah, it's a nice kind of camo green or something. It's like olive or something. Yeah, like olive, cool. Nice lens too. All right, and that's gonna do it for this week's commuting makes. Thank you everybody for posting up their makes. Really appreciate that. And shout out to RuneCaster for posting up their awesome 3D model. So cool. All right, that's us. Because of how easy it was to post process in the video in the, and Boba Fett, you know how it has like two little streaks of the yellow. I was like, oh, I should probably post a process that just add that in there. Cause it's so simple. Just two little strokes of yellow. That's great. Hey, this just in. Woo, woo, woo, woo. A new killer. A new killer. Literally just now, a day ago, but I didn't get the email. So here it is. So a big, stinky cat 3D on Prusa printers, but sort of their make of the retro case for the Pi Portal. It is. So the Pi Portal, we made this very adorable snap fit case that just, I love this case. It's got all the angles and fillets to make it retro. Looks like a little iMac, a little Mac classic or something. Very cool. So it looks like they're making a bit of a clock or something. It looks super, super cool. Yeah. We made this for like every size of the Pi Portal. So if you got yourself a Pi Portal and you wanna add this super cool little case to it, even Daryl posted one up. I don't know if I've shared that one before. No, I didn't. Cool. That's cool. So yeah, make your own retro case for your Pi Portal. Nice. And that is this. Let me get a link to this. I was gonna add it to the... Sometimes it's hard to get links. Here it is. Adding this to... Wow, why would they change the highlight color? You can't tell if you're highlighting something or not in the URL browser. Right, taking notes here. Thanks everybody for those hanging out with us. That's gonna do it for the show. We got about two minutes. So we're gonna wrap up the show. If anyone got any last minute comments, go ahead and drop those in the Discord. We'll hang out for a little bit, but let me run through it tonight. I hope to see you guys on the show Intel. It starts at 7.30 p.m. every Wednesday. We invite you folks this week. It's hosted by Mr. and Mrs. Lady Aida. Shortly after is Vaskin Engineer at 8 p.m. Eastern time. Full hour of Lamar and Phil. You can, they're gonna do top secret. I'm an MPI, I check out what's new in the store and of course everything else that's going on in the background at the factory. So definitely tune in for that. Tomorrow, shows continue on with John Park's workshop. Yep, JP's up tomorrow at 4 p.m. Eastern time every Thursday. Tune in for some live building. Circuit Python Parsecs. Future stuff. Yeah. Synthesizers. Oh yeah. Lots of music. Retro, rotary dial phones. It's all on for retro and music since all that. Yes. It's for good stuff. On Fridays, it's 2 p.m. Pacific time or 5 p.m. Eastern time. You can tune in with Scott. He does a deep dive. And forthcoming soon we'll have another special guest on Fridays. Some sort of foamy. Some sort of guy. I'll wrap it around to the weekend. We got Desk of Lady Aida every Sunday from, I think it's like usually seven to some more, in the evening, so somewhere from like 7 p.m. to all the way to midnight. So don't be tuned in for that. All the awesome floppy-ness going on. We got some floppies coming in on, I think next week. So we gotta make some cases. That's right. So hardware cases and all that cool stuff. So more floppies coming out. And I saw that they just ported or converted some of the old Mac stuff. Looks so awesome. Can't wait. Check it out. Desk of Lady Aida every Sunday. And then on Mondays, we have the Circuit Python meeting happens at 2 p.m. Eastern time. In the Discord server, you can also check it out in the archive, post it in later after the show. That was on Tuesdays. There's cake. Yeah, there's cake. Every Tuesday at 4 p.m. Eastern time, you can get up to 50% off discounts on select products that JP picks. JP's product pick of the week. Last week, it was the awesome new Arcade Stem Up board. Arcade QT Stem Up board. They sold through all of them. It was like $1. I was gonna use that in the foot switch, but we were out of stock. I didn't know there was gonna be more, so. At least the QT guys in the KB2040s are on. Yeah, the Arcade is good for Arcade buttons because they have LEDs. This doesn't have LEDs, but it'd be cool if these did. So maybe in the future, these could have LEDs, that'd be really cool, huh? LED foot switch? How did I look out to not do that? I'm gonna have to take that idea with putting a fan inside there so it cools off your foot. It cools off your foot. But tune in every Tuesday, 4 p.m. Eastern time, 50% discount. And tonight, we have a discount code. So you get 10% off your order to tonight. So stay tuned for that. We're wrapping around every Wednesday. We're here every Wednesday. Yeah, 11 a.m. We've got all the three great stuff. Cool. Thanks everybody for joining in. We'll see you tonight on Eskenden on Chow and Tell. That's it. And until then, remember to make a great day. Make a party parrot day. Bye folks.