 Hey guys, welcome to Rotorite. I'm Bubby FPV and today we're going to be building the Moxie Pro spec. This is basically my signature build, the exact ponents all the way down from the tune to everything that I fly. So let's get into it. For the frame, we obviously have the Moxie frame. This is my signature freestyle frame. I designed this frame for maximum durability. Some key features of this frame are really wide arms because I think that wide arms provide more rigidity to the frame so it might make it easier for tuning. When I'm in a concrete bando or some sick office park, I want to be able to know that I can force in my quad and not have to worry about breaking an arm or something. One of the key features of this frame is definitely the sideways standoff in front of the frame. I did this so I can have a GoPro mount mounted to it because with other frames that are mounted just by the screws GoPro mounts would always rip off and I think also having camera plates really helps with just rigidity of the frame. I designed this to have 3D prints to hold the FPV camera because I just think that having something soft to hold the FPV camera provides some more durability for it as it's not hard mounted to something. So in a crash, there is maybe a little bit of give so I'm not cracking the camera case. For the motors, I'm running the hype frame with drip motors. I really love these motors. They are super durable. And yes, I'm still flying 4S. This is the Foxier Reaper stack. And honestly, I used to fly individual ESCs because I cannot find a Ford one that was durable enough for me. But guys, this ESC has held up to all of my crashes. I've had these for multiple months and I have put them through literally everything and anything you can think of. I really love these ESCs and stack. They are super durable. And for the video system and control system, we're going to be using the Caddx Air Unit. I designed my frame to fit an air unit because I really prefer the air unit so that's what we're going to be using for this build. First, we're going to start off with the frame assembly. We have our arm screws and we have our standoff slash motor screws. You're going to grab your bottom plate, your brace plate, and one arm. And I only grab one arm to start it off so it's easier to thread. And I kind of make a little sandwich to line up the holes. I'm not going to tighten it down all the way because it just makes it easier when I'm getting rest of the arms on. To mount each arm, there are two screws per arm. So I have basically eight in total. This middle screw is not a mounting for the arm. It's actually a cutout for your stack screw. And one thing that I really like about this design is that I can remove the arm without having to take out my stack screws. To know which way the arms go, you're going to have the more motor protection going, facing forward and backwards. So it'll look something like that. All right. So for mounting the motor, it's pretty simple. I just put my motor on right there. Oh, you see that? You guys see that? It's a little hex. You know what that is? It's a prop tool. It's pretty sick. If you break an arm, you got to spread a prop tool line around that you can use to tighten on your motors. Mounting the motors, it's pretty simple. I just go ahead and take my motor and I'm going to place it like that. Usually you'd like to get one screw into the quad skid beforehand just so I'm not fumbling around. If you can see, there is a little arrow right there on the quad skid and basically that tells you which way to put it. So it's going to be pointing outwards of the arm. I don't know if you can see that right there. Personally, I really like to run skids. It just gives me a sense of safety when I'm landing that I'm not just grinding out these screws. So for the motor screws, I'll usually start off with the top two just so that it is fixed and then from there I'll do the bottom two screws. All right, so we got our motor on one of the arms. I'm going to go ahead and do the rest of the three arms. So now that we have our motors on, the next thing I'm going to do is go ahead and mount my air unit because I run my camera cable that goes from the camera to the air unit under the stack. So it's nice to have that on prior to mounting the stack. This is a DJI air unit with the OG DJI camera. You can't get it anywhere else right now except for Rotorite.com. So we're going to grab our antenna mount. I designed this to be really short and stubby next to the frame because I think when you have antennas that go out really long, it's just easier for them to break. When I was designing this frame, the biggest thing that I wanted was maximum durability and just having everything more compact really achieves that. We're going to go ahead and grab one of these shorter screws which is the same size as a motor screw and we're going to go ahead and mount our standoffs. We have teal standoffs because the color vibe that I was trying to go for this Moxie frame is pink and teal and I think it just looks so good. I'm going to go ahead and put the back two standoffs on. So my frame has camera plates so the way to know the back is the side without the camera plates holes or basically you'll see a little 20 by 20 M2 stack. This is if you want to run a DJI Vista. This is a backside. Grab our little antenna spacers and these basically just prevent this antenna mount from sliding up and down. I'm going to slide this over the standoff capu. I'm going to go ahead and grab my DJI antennas. So for this antenna mount, you can actually run it up either way. It's the same but there's one little side that has that protrudes back a little bit. I like to run it on that side up just because I think it looks a little bit better. So I like to thread the top one first and I don't want to push it all the way in yet. When I'm pushing these in I want to make sure that the MMCX part of the antenna is facing downwards because in the end I'm going to end up flipping it over and it just makes it easier to mount to the actual air unit and it doesn't add stress on the connectors. And that's like one of the biggest things that I think really is good for these types of mounts where the air unit is pushed right against the back. There's not any stress on the actual connectors so it's less likely to break. I don't know if you guys have ever broken an MMCX in the air unit but it is a pain to get out. So this type of antenna mount prevents it. It should look something like that with both of the MMCXs facing downward. I actually run my air unit upside down because when you mount your MMCXs like this there's like a little bit of strain on the connection from this over... there's like a little overlap there. I don't know if you can see that. So I like to run it upside down to eliminate all that. I'm going to go ahead and take our double-sided sticky tape. Make sure you get the one that has foam so it's like can kind of go into the grooves and make it seat extra well. Match it up relatively well there. We're going to go ahead and take our connector for a DJI air unit and we're going to go ahead and put that in before we mount our air unit because once we have the whole little package here of the air unit it's going to be really hard to get the connector in. So I like to have it clipped in. See, can you guys hear that? Hold up. Yeah, it's not going to come out and yeah it's going to look up something like that. We're going to go ahead and bend our antennas. The coaxial cable like this because this is how they're going to end up mounting just to get them in the general shape and I actually like to go ahead and mount and plug in the MMCX's right now before I even mount it. I think it's easier once it's like all free-floating. You just kind of plop it down like that. Take your cable. Make sure it's not going under. You're going to want to run it in between these coax cables. Let's go ahead and remove our double-sided sticky tape. Satisfying. Alright, so be relatively careful. You kind of want to have it seated at the right place the first time just so you don't have to move it around. So one thing I really like to have is the MMCX part right here butted right up against the TPU. This basically allows it to not unplug. So I'm going to push it against it as I press my air unit down. There we go. So that air unit is on there pretty well. Now I'm going to go ahead and take this antenna mount and slide it over the standoffs. And so you're noticing right now how some of these the coax cable is kind of protruding over where the top plate will be. It's not really a big deal. The top plate will just push it down. So I'm going to grab some electrical tape now and just wrap the front half of the air unit because if you notice the back half of the air unit has a USB-C port and your bind button and I do not want to cover those up. From there I'm going to go ahead and wrap just the front half of the air unit with electrical tape. As I mentioned earlier, you don't have to take off the arms to put the stack screws through. I'm using a 25 millimeter M3 screws for my stack. It fits just perfectly to be right under the top plate and it gives me a lot of room to mount my stack. And like one thing that really annoys me is having like a slammed build. Frustrating for me to build so I made these 25 millimeters high which is pretty standard but it's really easy to build for anyone. So if you're a beginner or if you're a pro pilot or whatever this frame is good and easy to build for you. To get this started we're going to go ahead and take this screw right there, hold it like this. You're going to want to make sure that you get these M3 nylock nuts so that when you tighten it all the way down your stack is not going to be jiggling all over the place. So I'm just going to use some pliers to hold this part down. Stand it up on its side. I'm going to go ahead and just screw it all the way down. Perfect. So now that we have the stack screws on there, these are not moving, these are solid. I'm going to go ahead and actually put this aside for right now and we're going to grab our foxy or reaper ESC and we're going to go ahead and tin all these pads. I usually use 63 37 leaded rosin core solder which basically has some flex in it. Put it down on the pad and then we're going to add solder to the pad when you kind of see that it's flowing. What I mean by flowing is it looks really shiny and like that. All right, so now that we have all of our motor pads tin, we're going to go ahead and move here. We're going to go ahead and grab a capacitor. So I really like this capacitor. This is the 1000 microfarad 35 volt. This one doesn't come with the foxy or stack, but you can pick this one up at the road right store. You see these little holes in the foxy or stack? Those are meant for your capacitor to go in. Put this in. Oh, and the right way to know it is the capacitor side with this little stripe is the ground. So in this case, foxy or stack, this side is ground. So we're going to go ahead and place it in there. I'm just going to go ahead and push it through as much as I can. I'm going to go ahead and snip. If we're tinning these power lead pads, it's basically the same as the motor pads. I'm going to put a little bit of solder on the tip, maybe a little bit more because the pad's bigger. So it's going to take more to heat it up. If it goes into those two components, it is 100% fine. This has happened to me on all of my builds and I have not had an issue yet. The foxy or ESC comes with this little baggie and you'll notice some little gummies in here and I prefer to use these ones. So there's two types of gummies. There are these bigger ones and then these smaller ones. I like to use the bigger ones just because it provides a little bit more space underneath the ESC for the DJI camera cable to go through. To get these in sometimes kind of a pain, but I kind of like to just squeeze it like that, push it through and kind of shove it in there with my fingernail. Now we're going to go ahead and do those for all three. So that is finished. I'm going to go ahead and grab this frame again and okay. So it's coming with this one little white cable. You're going to need this. Don't lose this. It only comes with one. I'm going to put this in a safe place. So I'm going to go ahead and grab my frame which has these stacks screws and I'm going to put the ESC on. I'm not putting it on permanently right now. I'm just going to put it on so it makes it easier when I am trying to attach my battery. They come pre-soldered, but I like to put some fresh solder on there. I think it just helps everything flow together if you're going to be using the same solder. There we go. So I like to just, once they're on there, give it a little tug test. It's hot. See that that is good. It's not coming off. So I'm going to go ahead and do is take off the ESC that we just put on. So I like to go ahead and run my DJI air unit camera under the stack. So I'm going to go ahead and place this here now. Let me get my ESC. I'm going to test right now to make sure there's enough room for the flight controller. So I'm going to get the flight controller, get once again the bigger gummies, not the smaller gummies. This is going to go on the bottom of the flight controller or the top side of the flight controller is the one that has a little arrow right there. So I really like this Foxier flight controller. It's an F722 and it has an MPU 6000 gyro. I think it's what it's called. It's easier to tune from what I've heard from my tuning friends and it's just overall really rock solid. All right. So I just want to go ahead and test. Yep. Perfect. So this is going to leave us with just enough room to get our last little screws on there. Once we're done, soldering all this stuff up. All right. So for my motor wires, I really like these motor wire protection. Take your motor wire, slide this thing through, then it's going to go on something like that. It makes it look really clean and really nice. So I'm going to go ahead and do that for all four motors. Obviously the motor wire is really long for where the motor pads are. So I want to take my snippies. I'm going to try to line it up. We're just going to go ahead and snip. And what I did there was I moved the wire back a little bit so I have some extra slack so it's not super taut. So now I'm going to go ahead and strip these wires. People usually use wire strippers, but I just use these little wire cutters. Just basically cut down but not all the way. Then rip up and grab our soldering iron and just tin these. And the same process is pretty similar to tinning the pads. There's not really a right or wrong direction or like order to put these motor wires in. I just line it up straight ahead and then in software I will change the direction of the motor. Boom. Next we're going to go ahead and take our little cable that we got with our flight controller and ESC. We're going to go ahead and plug that in. Good plonk. There we go. It's seated in there pretty well. So now I'm going to go ahead and take my flight controller. I'm going to plug it in. Go ahead and plop the flight controller on. There we go. I really like that the Fox Air stack comes with a really short cable. Just makes everything look a lot cleaner in my opinion. For the DJI Air unit I use two UARTs. One for my MSP which basically allows me to control my PIDs and my rates all in the goggles. And then I also need an SBUS pad which is another UART which allows me to use controlling because I use the DJI radio. First thing I looked up when I searched up DJI Air unit wiring diagrams. Rotorite.com. When you're doing this you'll probably also want to pull this up just to make sure 100% that you're doing it right. Which is I did it too because I always forget these wired diagrams. We're going to solder our ground, our power, TX5, RX5, and RC and ground. This DJI silicon, it's not a silicon cable but the DJI cable, the stuff they have around it, when I put it to heat the things around it they melt and they shrink. You can buy in the Rotorite store they have this exact cable but it's made of silicon which basically means that it won't shrink up like this. It's good cables. You don't have to worry about it. It's normal cable. Peel it apart. We're going to do the same thing we did earlier with all the other wires we used. Just strip it and tin it. I like to be really really quick with this because I do not want the wire shrinking so touch, tin, touch, tin. Yeah because if you hold the heat on there any longer then you know a couple seconds the whole wire will just shrink. Ground is the first black one right next to the red one. So see right there it happened where the wire like melted away. There's a lot of exposed wire. Yeah so for something like that I'm going to go ahead and cut that part off and just redo that. So I'm going to cut off all the part that was bad there. Make sure I still have enough room which is good I do. There we go. There we go. Looks better. So the order of the wires is power, ground, you want RX. So for this case RX goes to TX and TX goes to RX basically saying that the URTX on the air unit is going to be transmitting to the receiver side on the flight controller. So TX goes to RX, RX goes to TX. That's how it always is. So this white cable right here is an RX so this is going to go ahead and go to TX which is conveniently the next pad over. So next we have URT TX so this is going to go to RX. Okay so from here this last yellow wire is going to be our control link or our S-Bus. It's going to go to S-Bus. Then last but not least ground and boom that is it of the soldering. I'm going to go ahead and do a plug-in test. All right so the reason you didn't hear the last two beeps is because right now in Betaflight there is no like ESE configuration set up. It's perfectly fine. The flight controller powered up so I'm not worried about the last two flight controller beeps not going. Hey guys, Bubby from the future here. I forgot something. Okay so it's basically done but I forgot to put these little little nuts on top of the stack to keep the flight controller down. Basically don't forget to do it. Do it while the bill is open so you don't have to take apart your quad. So now what we're going to do is we're going to ahead and put the rest of the standoffs on. We're going to take our little screws two millimeter driver and start off with using these two the ones that are behind the camera plates. All right now we're going to go ahead and get the front two which are these two right there right there on. So we got the standoffs on now we're going to take our two camera plates and we're going to plop them in this way and this way so that the little nub on top is facing forward and you can see how there's a cutout in the back right there. I actually designed that for the XC60 to come out of. It'll come out something like that. You're going to take your two little camera 3d printed mounts and you're going to want to put it on the inside so that the shiny flat side is facing the inside if that makes sense like that. So basically these 3d prints allow you to mount your fpv camera. I really like having 3d prints hold my camera in because in slight crashes or hard crashes there's a little bit of give so you're not going to be cracking this case. The camera mounts that come with the moxie frame only have one screw hole in them that's because DJI seems to be moving towards more cameras that have only one hole instead of two. You can print your own or you can buy your own that have two holes for the DJI camera. When you're mounting your camera make sure that the little arrow on the back of the DJI camera is facing up that lets you know that this is the top and that's the bottom. It really doesn't matter all that much because after in the DJI goggles you can change the orientation but I like to get it right the first time so I don't have to do as much work later. I'm not going to tighten them all the way down right now so I can adjust the camera angle later. Before we put the top plate on we're going to take two zip ties and zip tie the battery lead to this standoff right here. I zip tie them to the standoff so that it provides some tension relief so in a crash when the battery unplugged and pulls it's not pulling on the pads. This is the top plate right here and this is the front side that has the two FE camera plate slots. They're going to slide in just like that. I personally run a spoiler. I'll share the STL it'll be in the description or you can buy them from the store it just goes on the top of the back standoffs. So the Moxi frame kit does not come with a spoiler. You can buy it in the rotor at store the spoiler by itself but if you buy this ProSpec build it does come with a spoiler on it. All right so that's on. We're going to go ahead and take these screws for the top plate and do the front too now. All right there we go and so you'll see this here. This is for a standoff horizontally to mount your GoPro mount so I'm going to take my 25 degree GoPro mount because that's what I fly. I'm going to go ahead and pop the standoff through there to push it down and I'm going to go ahead and put it down like that and now I like to start mounting the GoPro with these screws in the back first. You should probably use washers. They don't have any on me right now and I'll probably add some later but washers for the back of these just to help it not you know rip and crashes or whatever. We're going to take our other two screws and screw it in to the horizontal standoff. Before I do anything else I always like to just go around and make sure that I have everything tightened up because you know the last thing you want is for you to go out and fly your new build and find out that hey there's a motor screw missing or there's a motor screw loose and have your quad just fall out the sky. The democracy frame will come with this battery pad. This battery pad is awesome. I absolutely love it. It like fits the shape of the frame better. Personally I like to use this. This is a rotor riot battery pad but it's just a little bit extra sticky so I'm going to go ahead and cut it to the shape of the top plate there. Sweet. So if you guys have spare arms or broken arms you have prop tools for days. Right here guys see? Prop tool. The prop that I'm running is the HQ J37 prop and I have them set for props in because that's what I run. Props in basically means that the props are spinning in towards the nose on this side and towards the butt on the back. I'm going to go ahead and use a prop tool. I'll tighten this one down and I'm going to take one of my rotor riot tough battery straps. I really enjoy these battery straps but I haven't broken one yet. Look at this. See that guys? All thanks to that special sticky rotor riot grip. And kaboom. Finished bubby FPV moxie frame. Guys thank you so much for watching this builds video. If you want to pick up this pre-built you can go to the rotor riot store and they have this exact drone pre-built so you don't have to do any of the work. Also if you want to you can build it yourself and you can buy all the parts that I used today in this build at the store. Anything you need they got it. And we'll have a dump for this exact quad in the description and it'll also be up on the rotor riot store or if not my pids and rates and filters and configuration are already on the store. Thank you guys so much for watching this episode of rotor riot. See you guys later.