 Hey guys, this is Matt Beck from freesaloneducation.com and I'm here to show you guys another haircut. This one's on salon gratitude guest Danny and the reason we brought him in is because he's got a really cool coarse curly texture to his hair and a lot of people have been asking, you know, what is the difference? How do I cut coarse curly hair? So we're going to use a couple different scissors, a couple types of different types of combs and we're just going to get into it. So you're going to see I start off using what it's called Fast Form. This product is made by Paul Mitchell. I like this product a lot as a base product for anyone, guys, girls, but just as kind of a cutting lotion because it's going to allow me to section clean and just get the hair out of the way. So you'll see me parting the hair. I'm going to start at the parietal ridge just to separate the top from the bottom. I'm not looking to get really fine his part at this point, but I'm just going in there and separating those two different sections. Now we're going to start right at the sideburn area and we're going to work scissor over comb. You'll notice just that one blade is moving. You're going to notice that through the whole entire haircut. That's a really, really important detail when you're cutting men's hair, cutting any hair to be honest. So we're going to start working scissor over comb. Get the length right from the beginning because the one thing that's going to slow you down the salon is if you start in the back, you cut it, you do the whole entire haircut and then all of a sudden you got to go back in and cut it shorter. So we're going to start working at the temple area, really work in that sideburn. I'll go in later and even taper it more with a tighter comb, but I just want to get the base length down. So going in there, I'm using the steady blade, which you'll see is the blade that's not moving, just to kind of balance on the comb and then the other blade is coming down and cutting the hair. I'll comb all the hair forward and then just cut that nice clean line. The detail work in a men's cut is really what's going to set it apart. So now we're going to work from that temple area back, so behind the ear. So just kind of bend the ear out of the way and then work scissor over comb up from there. You can see how I kind of tap the hair down into the comb. The important part about that is really just keeping consistency with the combing. So you could just fly through it and scissor over comb quickly, but you're not going to get consistency, so you're not going to get a clean, faded line or taper in the haircut. Now we're going to work just using the tip of the scissor, cutting little by little down that hairline. So the first pass through is just to really cut the bulk of the hair out, then I'll comb again and now I'm going to go through and really stick that line in there. You can see how sharp that line is. You don't have to use a trimmer every time you want to cut a hairline. Using the tip of that scissor is really going to give you just a straight of a line and it's actually a little bit more handmade and you don't have to work with an inch by inch section. You can use just the tip of the scissor and really customize it. Now I'm going to go horizontal diagonal forward. What I like about doing this is I'm going to go through and cut the bulk of that out. Then I'll go back through cutting diagonal back and it's almost like cross checking a haircut. Just feather through, just taking off that corner a little bit. I want a soft line in Danny's hair. I don't want to create a harsh squared off back in this haircut. So then you'll see now we're going diagonal back. Again, it's just like cross checking so we're working our way through it and using that point of the scissor again, we're in the back nape area just to cut that straight line. You don't have to use a trimmer, I think that's what I want to get through in this haircut. We will use a trimmer later but really to get the basis of the whole entire haircut. We're using a scissor and a whole thing. For this haircut we're using to start off for scissor over comb and techniques like that. We've talked about it in other videos but we're using a longer scissor. This is a 6.5 Mizutani blacksmith fit scissor. Works really well for us. It's a really nice barbering scissor. Now I'm going to work the other sideburn, same way. Most important thing with scissor over comb is just really work on that technique and work on just moving the one blade. Once you get that, there's so many different things you can do with a scissor. Moving into the temple area, my focus is really as I hit that bridal ridge and just pulling away with the comb. I don't want to take off that round of the head. Even if I'm going to do it later, I want to keep some of that length so I can play with it later in the haircut. Again, because I'm only moving the one blade, I can go right behind the ear and use that scissor just to cut around the ear. I won't cut them because I have a steady blade sitting on the skin. Scissor over comb is a great technique because I use clippers obviously in the salon as well, but using a scissor is you're just working with finer sections, so let's say they have a lot of divots or movement within the head or different bumps in the head, you're going to be able to create a more custom feel to the haircut using a scissor because you're not working with as much. When you think about a clipper blade, it's really fat and thick. See, the lines that you're cutting are wider, so you can't control the weight distribution as much. When you get under there, there we go. You can see the same thing. Just making sure that as I work my way up the head or scissor over comb, my elevation kind of comes out, comes away from the head to create a little bit more of a longer length I guess as you hit the bridal ridge. The one thing with men's cutting is you really want to stay as consistent as possible with everything you do. Let's say a guest comes into the salon and you trim his eyebrows the first time he ever comes in and he loves that and that's the one thing that he's raving about when he goes home and then the next time he comes into the salon you don't do that. It's little details in a men's cut that's really going to set you apart. As a salon and personally for me, I love cutting men's hair and I'm not trying to take anything away from a barbershop, I'm trying to mimic what a barbershop does because I love the art of it. I love the different, just the detail work that goes into men's cutting I think is so cool. For me, men's cutting is a really cool art all in itself. Still working scissor over comb, you see working horizontally up the back of the head. We're just connecting both sides together real simple but you can see as we stay steady so I'll lift the comb up in then we'll re-comb it and we'll go again and we'll re-comb and go again. You've got to keep going over those spots and make sure that you have it nice and perfect. Each line is perfectly stacked. You can see it's kind of a square back but I didn't want the edges, the corners in there so we rounded those off slightly. Now Danny has like a little bit of a calic in the back so we're going to be working with that later as well. So I'm basically working to the low crown of the head and then I stop there. Now we're going in with our barbering comb. You'll see it's a much smaller comb and it kind of tapers out. This is a Wyeth Park comb. Great place to get that comb would be at Hairbrain.me. They have a huge selection of these combs but I like, now I'm working with a smaller scissor as well because I'm working in a tighter area. The big scissor is great for just kind of getting through the bulk of the haircut. Now we're working with our Mizutani. It's Ichi Ninosan number one scissor. One of my favorite scissors honestly. The quality of the metal is very, very soft and it's definitely cuts really, really good lines in there. So this is where we're going to work tighter to the head just to kind of finish those details. You can see how it blends really nice as you work with that tapering comb. Now you wouldn't want to do the whole haircut really with this scissor and this is what you'll see in a lot of salons is hairdressers have one pair of scissors that they love and they basically use that. Well you can see how small the blade is. You're not working with as much hair so it's going to take you forever if you wanted to cut this whole entire haircut with this pair of scissors. But it works great. You can see it fits nice and tight into those tiny places and we're working a little backhand technique just because it's more comfortable for me right around that sideburn area, temple area. For me cutting men's hair again it's not I'm not trying to rush through any of my men's cuts. I really want to work on the details of it because that's what is going to stand it out. I mean guys want to get compliments on their hair as well and this is the little tiny details of what people will notice about your haircut. So you see we're going to work with the fine teeth of that comb. Real tight to the skin and I'm just working with that tiny blade just to get in real nice and tight right around the hairline. Just to kind of clarify so you don't look at this and say hey we're doing the haircut twice. We're really not now I'm just kind of fine tuning everything. So I get through it quickly with the bigger blade and I cut kind of the length that I'm looking for for the most part. Then I go through and I do a little detail. So right now we're going to take out the weight from the parietal which we left on. We had worked around the hairline and the sideburn area. So all of that we're just tapering it in tightening it up cleaning it up and so right now there's always a lot of bulk right around that kind of recession line there at the parietal ridge right in the front of the head. So we're going to use a slide cutting technique. We're going to work on a diagonal. The blade is resting right against the head and we go through half closing the scissor and just sliding it through on a diagonal. I've seen this technique hundreds of times. To create texture on a men's cut. With curly, curly hair this is a great technique because it takes out that weight in the bulk. Now I don't want to miss this part. This is a great thing with just moving that one blade you can really go through in detail right along the front hairline. Now we're going to do the slide technique. Slide cutting technique on the other side. I mostly focus it for the most part in the very front fringe area because I really want to lighten a couple pieces in the back and really see that texture start to pop. Now we're going to work in the fringe area. What I'm going to do is I'm going to cut a guideline. So where I want the length and obviously we're not looking for dumb and dumber bangs so I'm going to cut that length then I'm going to elevate. As soon as you elevate it's going to remove that weight line so it's not super bulky laying on the forehead. So I cut my line of where I want the fringe to be then I pick it up and I'm just doing this right in the front. You'll see it's a diagonal section it's going to give it a nice soft flow to the haircut but I just want to remove that weight so it pops up in the front. This works in straight hair or curly hair or whatever but it does work really well for curly hair to take that bulk out. I'm just looking for the guide. You'll see still that one blade is moving so that's one thing if you are going to practice something practice that. One more section you can see that I'm going to take a diagonal forward so I'm really trying to shorten the front but keep it longer in the back. Same thing on the other side it's hard to see that angle but I did take a diagonal forward section again. Now we're going to go through we're going to bring it straight up in the air and all I'm going to do is point cut this at this point. I like the length of Danny's hair so I'm going to say his hair is about an inch long. This would be based on your guests preference but just going through one blade is moving I'm keeping the basic length of the haircut I'm just going through and cutting little holes into it because it's going to give his curly hair a little bit more movement and texture. So just sliding that steady blade along my finger and allowing the moving blade to close down onto it. This is a great way to point cut because it's not going to allow you to cut yourself and you can go through it quickly as you work through. I don't have to work that all the way because we already cut the front so I'm not worried about that. Now I'm going to go through the calic I'm going to do a little freehand cutting around the calic because it's starting to stick out of his head. I don't want to hold it in my hands because what that's going to do is over direct it too much then it's going to want to pop out. So right here I'm just freehand cutting it just to go with the rest of the haircut. So really with this is going to be based on your eye. A great way to practice this is on a mannequin because it's straight out from the head so you can work on just kind of going up and cutting through the hair. Now like I said you don't always have to use a trimmer so we're going to go through in just detail all those little tiny hairs that you see on a men's cut and I've used this in a lot of classes but basically men's cutting is like working with Photoshop. It's the little tiny hairs around the head little tiny hairs everywhere scattered throughout the hair that are going to look like it wasn't clean. So just going through in detailing taking out those little tiny hairs around the haircut are going to make your haircut really pop and stand out. So just using that steady blade now we went with our 6.5 inch scissor this time because just you know it's going to allow a little bit longer line as you're cutting. So even the sideburn we're going to finish it up there. Now I'm going to take a trimmer again I told you I would use a trimmer in this haircut but really just to take those fine little hairs and take add any little last detail I want to the haircut but there shouldn't be much in there. Working that trimmer upside down backwards just to really get close to the skin and take off those hairs. Also a lot of times in this line I like to use a straight razor at this point but you know that's a different video I guess. Work that rounded corner a little bit more just to soften it a little bit. Again taking out those little hairs right around the head so you can see a nice clean look to it. Now we're going to go through I'm going to place a gel into his hair we rinse them out. This is going to allow me to set his hair. A lot of guys look at gel as a finished product. For me this is you know the product that's going to set his hair to be whatever we want it to be. I love curly hair because you can really move it around and place it differently throughout the head so I'm going to comb the gel into the hair really evenly saturate it so we're going to work a nice left hand side parting in Danny's hair. Give him a nice classic look. A lot of celebrities are wearing looks like this so you know guys are going back to a cleaner look with their hair. It's not as much about messy texture anymore so I really like this hair cut on it. I have a really fine texture hair so I couldn't just place gel in my hair and let it go. Danny it's cool because he's got a thick coarse curly hair so you can put gel in it set it and forget about it and it'll be a great style. So now again backhand kind of technique using that steady blade right against the skin now we're going to do the same thing we're going to cut right into the part so you've seen this with a straight blade. You've seen it with a clipper probably and you might have seen it with a scissor as well. This is not an invention but it's how I like to do it. I like to set it with a scissor because a scissor I can hold steady for me it works really well. I also like using a straight blade to do this but we're just carving in the part line the cool thing about this is especially in Danny's hair this is going to give him a prominent part if he wants it. If he doesn't he can style it and mess it up and it'll go away so it's not something that will definitely be in there but you can see how it just really makes that part line stand out so well just using that scissor. So we work that through then right around the very front of it I'm going to use a T-Trimmer this is an Oscar treat T-Trimmer and I'm going to use that just to kind of wiggle it back and forth right at the part line. What that'll do is just kind of separate that very front edge. I'm not going to go too far back with the T-Trimmer I don't need to because of the scissor cutting but just in that very front where it opens up at the recession line you'll see it. Hope you guys enjoyed this haircut please check out all of our haircuts, colors, styles, everything is all free on FreeSalonEducation.com and we also have Mizutani scissors available for purchase for the best price that you can find so check us out FreeSalonEducation.com and also on Facebook Gratitude Salon Education to keep up to date with all of our latest free education things we have going on. So thank you guys so much for watching please subscribe to us on YouTube and we will catch you later. Thanks!