 Alright guys, so this is my guest Toby. I'm going to be doing a cut on him today. You may remember him from a video about a year ago. We did his going off to college haircut. Well, this is now his going off to college for the second year haircut. So what we're going to do is a nice clean tapered look. We're going to fade in the back hairline a little bit, something I like doing on him now. And I'm also going to work with you guys on working around the head shape. We're going to start off with our Andis Supra ZR Clipper. This is a motorized clipper that also uses the metal blade. So we're going to use a two blade, which is different than a two guard. Two guard is definitely longer. So you can see how nice and clean tight that two blade goes. So I'm going to work my way around his hairline. Now I want you guys to notice that kind of U shape that I'm creating with the clipper. So all my clipper works going to work on that U shape. It's going to taper diagonal forward towards the front. I really want to follow the contour of his head shape. This is something that I've actually learned a little bit about as I've been doing men's cutting videos and just men's cutting in general, watching other people doing it, watching barbers do it. I really like bringing that hairline a little bit more forward, really focusing on that hairline. So as I learn, I want to share with you guys things that I learned as well. So working my way through, just following like I said, the head shape around and dipping it down just a little bit right into the front. The other thing that I really focus on now that people have brought to my attention throughout my men's cutting and something that I've been guided and learned from is really focusing on the balance in the very front. So making sure that that weight in the front is balanced on both sides of the head. So when you look at them straight on in the mirror, you can see that there's balance within the haircut. So obviously, I got a little bit of a weight line. Now I'm going to work in with my three and a half blade. Now Toby's hair is a little bit thicker, so he will still have a shadow shadowed effect on that line. We're going to go in and do scissor over comb later. So I'm not a barber. I'm a hairdresser and I really like combining techniques, scissor over comb, clippering to get my end result. So notice my comb now is diagonal forward. I'm not working diagonal back because that would take that weight line away. I want to keep that weight line moving towards the front of his head. And then as I work towards the back of the head, my comb will go more diagonal back. So again, following that head shape, keeping consistent with my technique. That's the biggest thing in hair cutting in general. It doesn't matter if it's men's cutting or female. You want to make sure that you're consistent with every single thing that you do. It will show off in the end result of the cut. So working scissor over comb tips here, just making sure I'm keeping that comb nice and flat to the to the head. And then I taper it out as I get towards the end. I also had that steady blade staying and I'm just moving my thumb to create the actual cut. So that steady blade stays there. And then I come down and cut. This is a scissor that we have for sale on freestyleneducation.com. We sell all Mizetani scissors. This is a seven inch blacksmith fit solid scissor. This is what I do. All my scissor over comb work with. I got a customized titanium finish on it. That does add a little bit extra to the cost. So just so you know that going into it. But you can get a regular metal finish. Works just as well. For me, it does add a little strength to the blade. But most of the time it's just for aesthetics. I like the black look of the blade. So now I went through. I did all my scissor over comb work. Now I'm going to work through the top. I love having this new studio and being able to show that top angle. Because especially in men's cutting, just being able to show off exactly how I'm parting the hair. So I section everything. I'm not clipping it away. You'll see some people clip men's hair. I try not to if I don't have to. So I'm going through just really making nice clean partings and parting it away. I switched up my scissor. Now I'm using the Mizetani Type-K. This is a five and a half inch. I don't like to use a seven inch scissor in everything I do. I use it for stretch and reach when I'm doing scissor over comb work. But now that I'm working nice and tight, I want nice clean lines. A tighter scissor makes it easier to work close to the head. It's also a stronger blade so you get stronger lines. The smaller your blade, I've talked about this in a lot of videos. But if you're new to the channel, the smaller the blade, the stronger it is, the less it pushes the hair. So when you look at people that they always say, Sassoon people use like a four inch scissor, four and a half inch scissor. The reason they do that is because there's no reason to cut the entire length of the hair at six inches or whatever. And also your blade gets weaker so it pushes your lines. If you want clean lines, you want to work with a shorter scissor. I find for me personally five and a half inch is the most comfortable scissor for me. And I just make sure I take nice small sections and I get nice clean lines that way. So technique wise here, what I'm doing is just bringing everything vertical across the head shape. We could call it horizontal. Depends on how you learned it, what school you went to. But just straight across the top of the head, towards the front fringe area, I'm lifting everything straight up. So what I'm getting by doing this is a square feel on the top and then it's pushing that weight off to the parietal ridge area. So off to the edge of his head. What that's going to do is I'll go in a little bit later and detail that but I'm keeping the weight just on the sides. You'll start to see it right here as I'm combing it up. You could see the how it builds up at the parietal ridge. I like that look. I am going to go in and clean it a little bit. But first I'm going to do, I'm going to part his hair where he's going to wear it and then I'm going to work on the front as well. So you can see I lifted the hair up. I elevated everything cut it straight across. Like I was saying, it pushed the weight to that parietal ridge area. So now what I'm going to do is just use the loose teeth of my comb. Go through working scissor over comb just to clean it up and match up the top and the sides. That's how Toby's going to wear his hair. Next thing we're going to do is we're going to take a 1A blade and I'm going to take the hairline a little bit tighter. What that's going to do is almost make it not invisible because I don't want to go skin tight. I just wanted to bring it a little closer so that I don't have those really harsh squared off lines. This is something I've learned over the years, not only from just personal preference, but also getting critiqued through YouTube. So thank you to those people out there. But just taking the hairline a little bit tighter and then going through scissor over comb using the fine teeth of my comb to get those hairs nice and tight and then going through and getting rid of that weight line. So the last thing I'm going to do is work on the fringe area and this is kind of a cool little trick. What I do is I comb everything down but just a slight bit about a half inch of the hair and I lift it into my comb. You don't cut it straight across the forehead because that'll give you those blunt kind of dumb and dumber bangs in the front. So just cutting that guideline and then I take another parting across about another half inch. I've overdirect everything forward. That's going to push some more weight towards the back but it gives me those nice short fringe pieces that are easy to style. So instead of giving him a long fringe, I like giving him a little bit shorter fringe, a little more length towards just above the fringe area and then a little shorter into the crown. So to me it's just transferring that weight a little bit, a little bit shorter in the front, pop that front up and then have your weight sitting just above that. So we're going to be using Mitch Double-Hitter for our shampoo and conditions. So the cool thing about this product is it's a 2-in-1 so it's great for guys that aren't looking for using a shampoo and a conditioner. So it gets the hair clarified but then it also goes through and conditions. It's also a great body wash. The other product within Mitch that's a shampoo is Heavy Hitter which if you use a really thick kind of paw made or something that sticks to your hair that you really need to clarify that's a great product for even a once a week shampoo just to get all that product cleaned out of your hair. Now the next step is going to be Mitch Steady Grip. Now the great thing about this it's a gel and a lot of guys think that gel is just something you put in your hair and you go. For me, gel is the foundation of a style. So a lot of people have calyx, a lot of people have hair that doesn't want to stay up all day or they want to really fit their hair into a style. So what I'm going to do with Toby is I put gel in as my base. I blow it dry, get work out all of the calyx and kinks that helps give me that hold to do that. Also gives me a really nice clean look. So notice that I'm using the Palmichel 413 brush. I'm also using the Palmichel Neuro blow dryer and just working my way through blow drying that style in. And then once I have the style in, then I'll go in with my finishing product which is going to be the Barber's Classic. So this is a moderate hold. It's got a really nice shine to it. So if you want something a little bit firmer, there's other things like clean cut that is the product that I use on my hair. So I go through it adds the shine. So because I blew it dry, we didn't have as much shine in the hair. So it gives me the shine. I already have the hair place where I want it. This is just the finishing touches. Gives a little bit of separation. Like I said, the shine. And then I'll go through and I'll comb the hair into the set style. So he likes to have that nice clean parting in his hair and also that definition. So I really like the weight line that we build up on the side. Nice blend through the opposite side. I like the balance of the haircut. You can still see a little bit of a weight line, but I personally really like that as long as it's a consistent weight line throughout the haircut. It's done on purpose. But this is the end result. Hope you guys like it. Let me know in the comments below. All right, guys, I hope you liked this video. If you did, hit the like button below. Also, subscribe to the channel. I got new videos coming out all of the time. And if you liked any of the tools that you saw, the scissors, colms, clips, anything like that, then check them out on freesaloneducation.com. Use the code YouTube. You get a special little discount there. And also, if you want any of the Paul Mitchell products, check out PaulMitchell.com. You can get more information on those and also to purchase. Go to a Paul Mitchell salon near you. Thank you guys so much for watching the video. I'll see you guys on the next one. Thanks.