 Hello welcome back to my channel if you're new here, and you've never seen me before my name's Sam I am a licensed hairstylist and I am Going back dark and I thought that I would share with you the process and teach you how to go from light hair to dark hair The proper professional way. I know it probably sounds very straightforward like okay. I want to go dark I'm just gonna throw a dark color on and be done with it But if your hair has been bleached, and it's pretty porous just throwing a dark color on top of that It's not always going to give you the nice rich dark brown results that you want It can look really flat and dull and kind of have like a green Hue to it so I'm going to show you how to fill the hair properly So that your hair is nice and strong and healthy and you get a nice really shiny rich results So I'm gonna start by showing you all of the products that I'm going to be using first step is putting on a cape or if you don't have a cape just like a Old t-shirt that you don't care about getting stained You're going to need a color bowl and a color brush to apply the color with you're also going to need something to measure your color With so if you have a food scale you can weigh it out that works or if you have a measuring cup Use that then this is optional You could use your color brush to mix everything up But if you have a little whisk that will be helpful for mixing up the color You're also going to need gloves of course anytime you're going dark The color is going to stain like crazy and then also a color bottle. This is gonna be for the last stop I'm thinking after the color is done I might throw a gloss on top as the final step just to like seal everything in make it nice and shiny and make Sure everything is like really even and then as far as the actual color that I'm going to be using This is going to be a two possibly three step process But it's very important that you do it this way Like I said in order to get the best results and make sure that your color comes out looking Really nice and rich and shiny and all of that. So first we need our filler color My hair right now is I would say overall like about a level eight Maybe a level nine in some places and my goal color is a level four So I'm going to be going down four to five levels So I need something that's going to be kind of right in the middle of that That's going to fill back all of that warmth underlying pigment in my hair when you bleach or lighten your hair You are stripping your hair and taking all of the pigment away From your hair. So when you want to go darker, it's important to put that pigment back first Before you add the dark color if that makes sense So if you look at like a hair level chart the underlying pigment of each color The darker your hair is it starts out as red then orange then gold then yellow as you get to like a really light blonde So because I want to be back at a level four I need to add back those like gold orangey tones into the hair Because if I don't fill it first with that underlying pigment, it's not going to hold as well And it's not going to look as nice So I'm going to be doing a warm coppery level seven On my hair all of the specific products I'm using are professional only but you can get similar non professional options at Sally beauty supplies So I'll put links to all of the products that I'm using in the description And then I will also put the sally's options as well in the description And the filler color that I'm going to be using will be a demi permanent demi permanent has larger color molecules So it holds in bleached hair better than permanent wood So I'm using well a color touch. I'm going to be mixing seven stroke four three with seven stroke seven three This is a level seven red gold with a level seven brown gold Just something that's going to give you like a coppery color this I just had left over But I didn't have enough to do my entire head with and then they were completely sold out of the store of any of this For the professionals out there, ideally I would want to do a stroke four three or a stroke three four Something just like really orange But um, they were completely out of those so seven three I feel like is gonna still be good and give me that warmth and that gold that I want mixed with the four three I think it should work, but just some kind of like coppery orangey gingery color It doesn't have to be like anything specific We just want to make sure that we are filling the hair and getting it nice and warm Now salis does have like protein fillers that you can spray on your hair before applying your dark color I'm going to be honest. I've never used those before so I'm not entirely sure how well they work But this is like The way if you were to go get your hair done in a salon This is the way most stylists are going to do this process. So this is The way I feel comfortable doing it the way I know works the way I know how so that's what I'm doing So that's going to be the first step the first color that we do and then for my actual dark color I'm using wella colestine perfect. This is a permanent color and this is in the shade four stroke seven one Which is a level four brown ash. I will say when you're going darker, especially on top of previously bleached hair Whenever shade you want to be I would go one level up to be on the same side because your hair's more porous So it's going to suck that color up more and it's most likely going to end up coming out a little bit darker than What you want. So I would just go up a shade to be on the same side I am totally fine with my hair coming out like as dark as possible. Basically my goal is like A Courtney Kardashian like dark dark dark brown almost black basically and then for all of those colors that we're going to be using I got 10 volume developer You want to use 10 volume or lower because this is all going to be deposit only we don't want to lift at all Obviously, we're going darker. There's no need to lift so 10 volume or lower on that And then the last step this isn't always like 100 necessary But I do find that whenever you're going from light to dark It usually does take like A second layer of dark color in order to like really get everything Super even and get it like as dark as you want and like nice and shiny So I am going to be using redkin shade dq. This is a gloss So it's going to seal everything down add shine and this is in the shade for n Sticking with the level 4 and then I just have the processing solution to go along with that So again, I will have the Sally's alternatives to all of these products But that's what we're going to be doing. So we're going to be filling the hair first with a coppery color Then we're going to be putting our permanent dark color on top and then we're going to throw a dark gloss over top of that To seal everything in and get it nice and even So just brushing through to make sure there's no tangles in my hair and then parting it down the middle Just to make the application As easy as possible. Let me put my gloves on So I'm going to start with these seven four three while a color touch. I'm just going to squeeze out whatever is Left in this tube There was about like half a tube left. So there's like an ounce Of color in here. I'm going to put a little bit Of the seven seven three With demi permanent you need to do a one to two ratio with developer So double the amount of developer to color. So I don't actually need Too too much color So I think I'm going to just do like one and a half ounces Of color So again, you don't have to use like exactly the same color that I'm using I wouldn't even do this if I had the option but I did one ounce of Seven four three and then half an ounce of seven seven three Just so you know exactly what I'm doing and then I'm going to take my 10 volume developer And I'm going to do double the amount. So since I have one and a half ounces of color I'm going to add three ounces of developer and I'm going to work from the bottom up And because I have a darker root and we're doing deposit only and this color is a few levels lighter than my natural color It's not going to do anything to it. Plus. I don't want to fill my natural color I really just need to fill what's been bleached. So I'm just going to focus this first color on The ends and mids of my hair wherever it's blonde. I like to just comb it through make sure it's Fully saturated When everything is applied I am going to leave this to process for 30 minutes And then I am going to Shampoo it out of my hair. I might do a little bit of light conditioner Just so that way my hair will be like easier to brush through and then I will be back Just rough dried my hair. I just wanted to get most of the moisture out It's still like a tiny bit damp. It doesn't have to be 100 bone dry, but I just didn't want it to be wet anymore. Now we're going to mix up our dark color So again for that, I'm using wella kp in the shade four stroke seven one And this is a permanent color This color is going to be a little bit darker than my natural like about a level darker So I wanted to get permanent. I'm going to apply this roots to ends I'm just going to use the entire tube and with the permanent. It's just a one-to-one ratio So since I did two ounces of color, I'm going to do two ounces of 10 volume developer and I'm going to do the same thing split my hair Down the middle and I'm going to apply it to the roots of my hair first And then go through and pull it down on the ends because the ends are more porous They're going to suck up the color quicker than my roots will because the roots are fresh hair They're not as porous. They're going to be a little bit more resistant So I want the roots to have a chance for the color set on a little bit longer So that way everything will come out nice and even I don't want my ends to be darker than my roots And the easiest way I find to do that is just start From a middle part apply it to the top End along the hairline and if you're worried about staining you can take Vaseline or even some like conditioner or something and apply it along your hairline and like on your ears and stuff, but Personally, I don't really care Then I'm going to split down the side like behind my ear Like that that way I'll have four sections two in the back On each side and then two in the front I'm going to clip the front piece away So I can see what I'm doing and I'm gonna I'm going to start with the back If you have another mirror that you can place behind you so that way you can see what you're doing Or if you have someone with you That can help you with the back Make sure that you're Not missing any spots I'm just going to go section by section using the end of my brush to Part the hair as I work along It's definitely a good thing that I got that gloss because I Way underestimated how much hair I have so yeah, I definitely needed At least two tubes. So what I'm doing is I applied it all over To the roots and I definitely don't have enough color to fully saturate the mids and ends This is literally all that I have left now. So I'm just dragging it down along the perimeter of my hair Just so I can cover the outside of it And of course now it's nighttime So the stores are closed. So I wouldn't be able to run out and get more color anyway, but I'm just going to do this And then I'm going to Take a comb See when you're doing things yourself at home, even when you are a professional Sometimes shit happens and then you have to improvise So I'm just Combing it through to make sure that The top of my hair Is completely saturated with the permanent color and then the very ends we will just Have to use the gloss I was planning on using that as a third step just to like Go over everything to really make sure everything was like nice and even but now we're just going to have to use it in step two as our color on the ends, but The ends are already pretty dark anyway and because they are so porous Like I keep saying it's just going to suck up the color anyway. So I think that it should take just fine So for the gloss, I'm going to apply that with a bottle to make it easier. This is liquid So if I try to apply this with a bowl and brush, it's just going to be a mess and get everywhere So bottle is the easiest thing to do. So we're going to do the full two ounce bottle And then I'm going to do equal parts processing solution I'm going to squeeze the bottle a little bit Put my finger over the top Give it a shake this way if you squeeze it first all the color after you shake it won't like come flying out of the top of the bottle I'm literally just going to squeeze That out just kind of do small section at a time The permanent color that's on my roots has to process for about 40 minutes. The gloss only needs 20 But after I'm done applying it, I think I'll just set up timer for 30 minutes Because I figure it's going to take me about 10 at least to apply this And it's fine if the gloss sits on you know longer than the 20 minutes. It's not going to do anything bad I should have known this honestly like it's always better to get more color than you think You're going to need but yeah, ideally I would have just applied the permanent color all the way through And uh, then once that was done processing, I would have washed it out and then applied this gloss On my wet hair just for like 15 minutes or so Just as like a topper But this should work and come out good So like I said, I'm going to set a timer for 30 minutes and then I'm going to hop in the shower Shampoo this really well out of my hair. Oh my god. I all over my neck even Um condition it as normal do my usual things style it and then I will show you the final result So it's actually a couple weeks after I originally colored my hair. I forgot to record an outro originally I do have some vlog footage though of what my hair looked like the next morning So I will insert that here so you can see how it looked That was again as you saw after I did the permanent color Up top and then I pulled that redkin gloss through the ends So it still gave really good coverage. It came out really even it looked beautiful But then about a week or so after that I did feel like there were a couple pieces that looked like they were starting to fade a little So I decided to go back to the store and get a second box of that wella four stroke seven one the permanent color that I had used on top of my hair And I just pulled that only through the ends. I didn't reapply it up top That wasn't necessary But just on the ends where I had ran out of color the first time So now my hair is 100 percent Root to end covered in that permanent color So this is how it looks now and you can see it's like Nice and rich. There's no dullness. There's no like green tint to it But there's also no like red or orange So even though I filled it with a coppery color first because I didn't do like a super dark copper You don't see that poking through at all as far as touching up and maintaining this color I would only use the gloss from now on so that redkin Shades eq 4n color I would just apply that I would mix it with the processing solution And you know every four to six weeks or so as I feel like the color looks like it needs to be refreshed I would just pull that through from roots to ends Now my natural color as you saw is only about a level Lighter than this color that I have so I would be fine with just using the gloss for a while Once my roots really start to grow like a good amount The color difference might be a little bit more noticeable at that point I would use the permanent color but only on my roots and on my new growth I would not reapply permanent color on hair that has already been colored because I just don't like the look of that I feel like when you start to overlap permanent color too much It starts to look a little bit flat So To refresh what's already dark I would use the gloss and then if you do have lighter roots And you want to color that new growth you can use that same permanent color on your Roots only I hope that you guys found this video helpful If you did please give it a thumbs up It really helps my channel out a lot if you'd like to subscribe to see more content for me I would also really appreciate that But I hope you have a great day. Good luck coloring your hair and I will see you later. Bye