 Hello everybody and welcome to another hobby cheating video and today is going to be a fun one We're gonna talk about my go-to paints. So I'm gonna go through I organize this by brand This has been something that's been requested of me multiple times People often ask what I like what colors I like to use and so I thought I would just make a video where I put all of my favorite paints Into one video as a resource for people if you really want to see the types of paints I use One thing I'll say is that I use a huge amount of different brands of paints I have very little loyalty with one exception. I use paints because I like the color or I like the way they act Or I like the way they blend or whatever catches my fancy. I also just love paint I have a problem. I will admit that and So it's just a good chance like I always love new paint ranges and picking stuff up and trying it out So today, I'm just gonna kind of go through the paints and then why I use them and what I enjoy about them So here we go. Let's get into it. All right, so we begin with the lejo model slash game color So these are the thicker line of the lejo paints You can see that I'm not gonna read everything you can see it here on the screen I'm not gonna sit here and read to you what you can already read yourself But I'll say this is the most common paints of these I use a couple quick mentions. I will often times I have a bunch of different whites grays and brown type colors. You'll see in here I use them all in for a lot of different purposes That is to say like here you see things like pale sand and ivory You'll see those kinds of colors reflected in multiple lines I like all of them in different ways. I will use all of them in different times I like lots of different versions of near whites off whites warm whites cold whites stuff like that I find them all to be very useful The main tone is act to me is actually the least exciting part. So that is to say What's going around the color wheel? I? actually find to be the sort of least exciting thing about the entire premise I much prefer how you then shade and tint that color That is to say increase the light and decrease the light and find that to be far more interesting because you say a lot more about a model Through the lighting scheme that you put it in by how you make colors warm or cold Then how you happen to choose red or green? really for the most part I think with the You know you could paint with just one primary around the The sort of color wheel and the rest would all just be some interesting addendums to go from there but at any rate The we'll start with ice yellow and glacier blue These are your war. This is your upper warm highlight and upper low highlight So I don't tend to highlight with pure white very often outside of say non-metallic metal or something like that These are actually my highlights if I want to set something to warm I'll usually use ice yellow or something similar. There's a couple of different colors very like that If I want something to be cold, I'll use glacier blue and I really love glacier blue a lot mixed with Frankly almost anything you can have such wonderful effects on so many different colors Turquoise and blue-green two very close colors the things I use a lot for oxidation I happen to use turquoise a lot in my models, which is probably not a shocking statement if you are watching this video And so those show up a lot. I happen to like those tones. They're both quite rich Ivory and pale sand like I said, they're just two different types of white I use these are often too I use for dry brushing over terrain or just dry brushing in general and early parts of the model Dark sea blue is a wonderful wonderful Color that I'll often use as the base of my non-metallic steel. It has a wonderful deep deep blue tone to it Blue black gray that is fantastic for the sort of base color You can mix up non-metallic metal from and heavy warm gray is just a great reset color If you've been working with an airbrush or something or you have a lot of complicated Colors already and you need to reset an area to a neutral tone So you can lay down something bright and thin like yellow or red over top. That's quite transparent Have you warm gray does the job one coat has super heavy pigmented and you're off to the new color All right, Vallejo air Vallejo air is something I'll often use especially through the airbrush quite obviously, but I also use it a lot for brush painting Whole red is by far one of the most common colors. I use period. It is my warm shadow So if I'm using that aforementioned to glacier blue highlight and I'm setting a cold highlight I'll set a warm shadow. So whole red is kind of my go-to. It's a very deep Red brown, which I like a lot. I'll also just use it as a deep shadow on, you know, brown tones and All works out of it into blacks to make them more interesting. There's just it has a lot of uses Cement gray and white gray and cyan I gray are things I'll often use for concrete for stone for Masonry all those kinds of things especially in like bases, but they're they're great for all those sorts of neutral tones They're they're they're gray colors. They're interesting cold gray is my mid-tone on my zenithal prime So that gets a lot of use more or less solely for that reason. I don't actually find much cause to use it beyond that Here it's listed as beige, but seven one dot oh seven four. I have a version of it. That's called radome tan I don't know what that means. It's probably I got a different like country's version of it, but it's a great color It's beige. It's extremely yellow white. So it's lovely, especially when combined with that ice yellow It can be a great step down can be great as Sort of an upper color of a non-metallic Like gold copper or whatever And then finally light rust, which is my favorite Shadow color for yellow as well as a great color to set for the base of your worms and a full priming So these are my go-tos a lot With all of the with the Vallejo air colors Both model and game these happen to be more model, but there you go All right next up we have citadel and GW and I decided to use some of my photos of my actual paints here So you can see how much these things get used that these are midway through some of the bottles I have and there are a score of dead soldiers That is to say the empty pots of course beyond this And I'll start with the washes that I find our have value Which is Nuln Agrax seraphim sepia and Rikeland flesh shade I find those four to be the things I use I don't you really use them often for how they're intended that is to say I don't generally wash miniatures I actually don't think it's often very useful Especially on large flats and things like that But I do occasionally for things that have extremely heavy texture So fur or micro texture will usually get a wash and I'll often stick to some of these colors Rikeland is as you saw if you've watched my how to speed paint and army in a week If you put Rikeland flesh shade over sort of a zenithal containing ivory It will suddenly become Caucasian skin tone over two coats. So there you go Blood for the blood god Nilek oxide two technical paints the technical line from GW I find highly valuable and both of those are great technical paints that I often am going to for things That they would be used for that is to say oxidation of coppery type Metals and of course getting blood on things Abaddon black I often will use as just a simple black paint if I need it. I don't use a lot of it But when I do it's actually quite a nice slightly satin black that I enjoy I also use it to do the edge rim on the base. So there you go It gets used on every model. I suppose some degree and Bugman's glow I find to be a really really nice fellow. You can see by the way I decanted those into these large bottles Because I didn't I hated the heat. I hate normal pots. They drive me insane And I would never use them for normal paints. So Bugman's glow I just find to be a really nice base like really warm skin tone for when you want somebody to have a Sundan or something like that It's just it's a really nice tone that there aren't a lot of analogs to in other lines and it's a strong color It's it's one of the baseline. So it's quite heavily pigmented. I just really find if you're gonna do things like Dwarves or you know barbarians or people who are sort of out in the sun a lot and and you want to see Weathered it's a it's a great go-to and just a really nice tone overall Next up we have the contrast line obviously a more recent introduction, but there are paints out of here I use quite often by the way you can see that yellow I haven't used in a few weeks because it's separated out You got a that will happen with those contrasts. Make sure you do shake them back up I hadn't noticed that when I took the picture. That's funny At any rate agraros dunes flesh-hound orange. I end in yellow killing green and fireslayer flesh These have a lot of different uses. I end in yellow is actually one of my go-to yellows I same with griffon orange. I find them to be a great yellow a great orange I use them together a lot when I want to use those colors things like fire Imperial fists stuff like that. I really like those colors agraros dunes I use quite frequently for things like weathering and streaking because the contrast paints shrink You can actually do a lot of quick weathering and streaking with them if you want simple things You can mix it down with the medium makes great staining on metal when you're trying to show like oil and stuff like that Fireslayer flesh will be much like right clean flesh shade only a heck of a lot heavier So when you want to get that color in there both of those I'll often use just as thin filters But with slightly different purposes It's that is to say I won't use them straight out of the pot as it were I'll put them on up on an actual palette and then thin them down with some kind of medium And use them as just a filter to add tones into other flesh tones Akely and green I just love because it's a Kelly ain't green. That's the biggest lie. It is not green I don't know what universe that is green in but it isn't this one. It is a very blue color now It is a somewhat blue green Certainly, but it's a still very much. You're sitting in the blue area of the wheel there so Kelly and green is love. It's a super bright blue It's just it's a lot of fun to use and all of these go wonderfully through the airbrush So that's often how I'll use them if you saw say the imperial fist video how to paint Yellow with imperial fists. You would have seen me use the I and in yellow quite heavily Pro a krill one of my favorite new lines of paints. They're heavily pigmented. They're wonderfully opaque. They're smooth as butter And you can you can thin them to just just the high heavens and back and they will retain their pigmentation and not break up So they're just one of my favorites Again, you see a lot of like off-white tones here in the olive flesh bright warm gray and bright ivory much the same things before These will often be tones. I'll use for White or gray clothing if that's gonna if that needs to be used the olive flesh is actually just a pretty straight analog to A warm white. It's not actually very flesh Tony at all slightly mislabeled, but it's a wonderful tone So you do quite a lot the bold pyrot red is actually my go-to red It's bright as just my god. Is it a bright red? It's wonderful how intense it is and I don't know if they're actually using that pigment my understanding is that pyrote is actually the Sort of a really nice red pigment that has a bright red to it I would assume since it has that name on there. It has that pigment in it But I haven't asked Jason if that's what's going on or not so but it's a great color whether or not Mahogany is another shadow color. I'll use often for Again warm shadows. It will be the bridge often between whole red and whatever the sort of adjoining thing Is that I'm shading for for flesh It has a really really nice red brown tone to it that I love a lot Black brown is a color I use quite a lot on things like belts and leather It's my a deep shade that you can make look really nice for sort of old dark leather And the yellow ochre is just a great ochre color good for non-metallic Good as a deeper tone on your yellows works great in tandem with something like that. I hand in yellow on the previous slide right Next up war colors So war colors I'm a big fan of obviously I use them quite frequently they have their gel-based medium There's a lot of tones in here that I like flesh five much much the same way that I like bugman's glow I like flesh five. It's a blue shadowed flesh tone So when you're doing warm highlights on flesh people standing out in the sun It makes a great shadow color because it's effectively a wonderfully premixed blue shadowed flesh So I'll often glaze that in ochre one makes a great high highlight on on flesh tones for like your spot highlights when you want to catch the Sort of oil sheen of skin and you want just like that that little tip of the highest highlight pushing beyond something like an Iclo I'll use the ochre one still not white. It's still not pure white, but it has a great really bright tone to it There's a couple others. I'll use as well on occasion Turquoise for the whole turquoise range the whole purple range purples not purple. It's pink The purple line is that says it's purple is not there all the pinks and they're great pinks as a matter of fact I like all of them So all the purples are a great investment all the turquoise is a great investment They actually have a wonderful range of tones in them As you can see I like turquoise. I like pink a lot. It's gonna come up I use those colors a lot you want to know what colors I use gonna be a lot of turquoise is You know then the blue green spectrum and in the pink magenta spectrum. I just I really like those tones At the same time violet three and five. Those are great Mid purples there there are I should say violets. They are truly violet in that case The fluorescent pink is my go-to Pop pop pop pink. You'll see the other half of that in a moment Love the full fluorescent line in general I think it's wonderfully bright colors the orange and the green are both great as well for things like the orange is good for Things like orange plasma weapons when you want those to really have a nice kick The green is great for things like warp zone and toxic waste and all that kind of jazz And then finally the glaze line. I love the glaze line I think it's wonderful if you have a problem mixing glazes if you find it challenging The glaze line is not huge. There's a green a brown a yellow a red and a blue They're all pretty standard colors, but they are premixed glazes that you can just literally squeeze out onto your palette You know get a little bit of a moist brush Take a little dollop of it and put it on the on the miniature and then just smooth it out and bada bing It's a glaze. No other mixing or thinning really necessary So if you found challenges with that, I would highly recommend that line as it is a great shortcut and a cheat So also the red glaze which is the one I featured here in the picture is great for getting those like really bright red pops Where you just glaze over Some kind of warm yellow bright yellow like ice yellow or white you lay down a couple glaze of this You get a super bright intense white or sorry, it's super bright intense red Scale 75 we'll start with fantasy and games which is their They're more sort of traditional line these act more like Vallejo paints leaves a different medium more of a liquid medium The my go-to colors here are all over the map These are often colors that I actually like when we talk about color colors Harvester flesh is one of my is a nice pinky flesh that I'll often use a highlight our buckles brown Is a really super nice purple brown that again, I like for shadows on things like flesh or Alien type skin or just you know in sort of deep leathery shadows anything like that Holdra blue blood-fest crimson These are my sort of some of my go-tos for for colors that I'll often use it that crimson color Especially it's just so nice and rich Amarth blue is a frequent highlight that ends up in my in my blue tone So for example in my iron jaws army, that's mostly Holdra and Amharth Despair green is a wonderful jade-ish green color that I will use quite frequently any time I'm using that kind of heavy green tones This is this this showed up all over the place on for example my daughter's cane if you go back and look at those And then finally acid pink the other half of my fluorescent Experienzier because I paint a lot of slanesh and I love fluorescent colors And I actually find that a little bit of the acid pink and a little bit of the fluorescent pink from more colors Gives you a beautiful bright ungodly poppy pink And I love a poppy pink. I love to keep that pink a poppin So there you go. That's my go-to there I have a review for for both those fluorescent lines on the channel as well if you want to check them out in more detail Regular scale 75 range So here we have a bunch of different interesting tones Mojave white again another warm white I use a lot of these that just sort of whatever catch my fancy Basic flesh tone is often sort of the mid-tone when I want to use Caucasian flesh black leather and African shadow all mix in for Again lots of like skin tone variation. I like them as shadow colors on reds and Other sorts of warm tones. You can use them both for like shadows on orange things And that'll look really nice Calahari orange is a nice desaturated orange that shows up in my work a lot Great for making a nice filter to make bone look more interesting Great for just you know, you're doing pumpkins or orange out in nature or something It's it's wonderful there because it's not like fire orange. That's just in your face in your face It's a little bit more laid-back than that Adriatic blue is a super great bright blue I'll use it to go above sort of the amharth and really make a pop in you know High highlight blue and then deep blue quite the opposite is often a deep deep blue shade It's a deep blue something. I'm not sure what but it's it's something Dowler Rowney FW inks. Yes, these should be these three inks should be on every painting table if you're painting managers When you're done with this video, you should be flipping over to Amazon or going to your local Michaels or craft store or hobby store art store, whatever you have near you and getting these three inks white Pains gray and burnt-oam verb Use them in basically every project everyone you want to do sharp freehand great white ink black at your pains gray Perfect, you want some great good cold shadows pains gray It does the job not black a little bit of blue more much more visually interesting Burnt umber you want some nice earth tones you want mud you want Leather color you want a glaze over top of something and turn it brown But so a lot of visual interest because there's some green in there. Yes. Yes. Yes When I say I use these every single time it's not an exaggeration Well, if I'm doing panel lining or stuff, I'll get out the pains gray. So there's just there's just an Crazy amount of uses for this. Oh edge highlighting with When I want to do sharp edge highlights on non-metallic boom white ink in the mix ready to go You know, these just get mixed in with a lot of other colors often to Add that ink Flow to the paint. I there's a lot more colors. I'll often use so there are other colors in this line It should be understood that I'm using other paints that aren't just what's here These are just the most common go-tos, but this ink line in general gets a lot of use But these are the three this is the the father son and the Holy Spirit as it were of your your painting table with inks Secret weapon miniatures. So secret weapon. It seems a bit unusual I don't know if many people are aware that secret weapon has a paint line as well, but they're great they're wonderful paints and old rust brown rust and rubber are three colors I use quite a lot. The old rust is very red the brown rust is very Brown and so it's an orange brown because all brown is just orange and If that's to say all neutral browns are orange You obviously you can turn browns other colors by adding green red other things like that purple and stuff And then rubber which I use for like all the time for things like pants and belts When you want to have a great great tone. It's good for rubber too by the by for like actual tires Fantastic there. I use that rubber for if you're doing a space marine They have the or or or a storm cast and they have that kind of Suit that shows under the armor panels, you know that kind of rubbery. I assume it's like a rubber-ish thing and it's sort of the Carapace or whatever that the armors attached to Rubber is your like my go-to color for that and then I shade it with Payne's gray and highlight it with a little Ice blue and there you go. Bing bang boom. We've got ourselves a rock-and-roll Huchiku So those are these are really three to show up often. Obviously. I also use the rust colors for rust Like actual weathering. I believe they're supposed to purpose But they're they're great as just brown paints I will frequently use them as both even on the same project where I'll something I need to turn brown great I'll use some see your weapon stuff and then I'll go back and use that same those same paints to then create rust effects later on Finally, of course you thought I forgot because we left Vallejo and I didn't mention them, but no, no We saved the best for last When metal paints as you know, this is the only time that I'll that I really Have a singular brand preference Vallejo metal color there are no other metal paints that hit my my table These are the beginning in the end the alpha and though mega These are the answer whatever the question They I have the four that I go to most often here steel silver copper and gold There are other colors in the range that I do use as well. Obviously But you know, these are just absolutely my 100% go-to They are smooth. They are Liquid they're so easy to manipulate the pigment is ultra fine They go on with brush or airbrush every other metal is basically junk compared to these every other acrylic metal There are lots of wax based enamel based Alcohol oil based metals, whatever that can perform a lot differently and achieve the same effects Probably even better like Alclad 2 for example But those require a lot different sort of tools and things to work with and could be a little more challenging So when if we're gonna stick within the acrylic space These are absolutely my go-to metals. They have a shine like no other. There's no bumpy pigmentation left behind The only thing even close to them is scale 75s line They're they're steel line like speed metal and stuff like that But even that just doesn't really compare to the great shine you get out of these so Ultimately, these are just my go-to metal. I cannot recommend them enough When I see people using inferior metals, and I can see that massive texturing on models. It's just I You just doesn't look good So at any rate, there you go. That's my go-to paints Obviously, I like I said I do use other paints beyond this. I have a ton of paints I'll it will we'll jump in a second here to just I'll show you little pictures of my my My sort of paint racks that I have and by the way, you should organize your paints and keep them all well organized An organized hobby desk is a happy hobby desk I you know getting all these down and taking pictures took me a few seconds per time Because they're all well organized. I know everything is so organize your stuff nail polish racks are the go-to Whether they're standalone or on the wall as you'll see that I have But they're they're just absolutely Essential if your paints are all just sitting out on your desk or in a shelf or something or you know If you've got any extra space or a blank wall, I would highly recommend that Just that's a that's a life tip. It'll help you paint a lot faster be more efficient and be happier But there you go. Those are my those are my go-to paints I use a lot of other colors, but these are the ones that most frequently show up in my On my wet palette and in my projects, so I hope this was helpful and useful These are colors that I like. I like all the properties these paints for various reasons They all do what they say on the tin well that is to say I don't find working with any of these paints annoying. They're all relatively Smooth they all blend well They all cover well where I need them to they're all pigmented enough that I can sort of mix them like none of these are Challenging paints where they're where you have to fight the paint to get it to work and that's why I like them I like paint that does what it's supposed to do. It's in the name, you know Paint things because it's paint So that's mainly what you know, I decide on I don't have a lot of brand loyalty There are other good brands so for example, you're not gonna see any P3 anywhere here in like that. That's not meaning that P3 are bad. I'm in no way Maybe very let me end on this note. I am in no way saying any paint color I didn't mention here or paint lines such as P3. I didn't mention here is bad or Reaper is bad No, no, no, I I have some Reaper paints and I use them on occasion. I like I'm just fine, but they're not my go-tos But you can use whatever go-tos you like If you have some paints you like and you're enjoying them other than metal paints Then keep using those if they're working for you, they're working for you These all just suit my personal tastes style application, you know the way that I work These are the ones that I like so there you go That's the video if you liked it give it a like I'll end with just some fun pictures of my paint racks here So you can see what I mean and as always I very much appreciate you watching this one Like I said give it a like subscribe for additional hobby cheating in the future If you've got questions or suggestions for future topics drop those down below that's always appreciated But as always I thank you very much for watching this one and we'll see you next time