 Hey guys, welcome to Rotorite. My name is Ledriv, and today we're going to be building another quad. We're going to be basing this build around a lot of the products that we've come out with over the past year, including the CL-1 frame, ride control, flight controller, new set of hype train motors. I'm a grip. So we've got all sorts of cool things. The CL-1 frame, community led, we took a lot of input from the community, provided to us through our various social media platforms and tried to integrate it into this frame. So you've got cool features like support for both 30x30 and 20x20 flight boards, additional 20x20 mounting provisions in the rear, 5mm thick carbon, press nuts, all these features packed into a frame that we priced to be really budget friendly. So this is going to be a really basic canvas that's going to be an awesome platform for simple clean builds. Throughout this build, we're going to be covering some tips, tricks, and hacks for our specific products, but also just good build practices. So check the description for some timestamps. If you're looking for a specific tip, you might find it down there. The motors we're going to be using are the new hype train 2207. This is called the Acro motor. It has a good mid KV of 2450. We've got a new extra durable bell design that still's got the cool tri-spoke look to it. Got the race day quads video transmitter with an MMCX connector, and that's going to be really great with this luminear antenna because it has an MMCX connector right on it. So we'll be able to plug this antenna right into the video transmitter, keep things nice, neat, and clean. My go to DYS ESCs, a whole bunch of brain 3D mounts. Oh, and we're also going to be putting on these little skitties. So these go on the bottom of the arms. It's really durable, and it's going to hold up well to scraping on the ground as you do the skids, give you something to land on. Let's start by putting the frame together. So your CL-1 kit comes with four arms, as you might expect with a quadcopter, a bottom plate, sandwich plate to hold the arms on, a top plate, and just some basic 3D printed mounts for your camera. Like I said, super simple frame. You'll notice that the base plate has press nuts. So that's going to make assembly easy and clean, but I definitely recommend using Loctite with this stuff. And I hate Loctite. It just, look, it's already on me. It's already, it just smells, it just gets everywhere. I'm just going to squirt some right in the press nuts. It's a really good idea to use it, but I just, just hate it. Got your hardware kit. So this comes with a bunch of screws and blue standoffs here. The screws for the arms are the long ones, right? There's two sizes. I think it's eight millimeters and 10 millimeters. Just start separating out the long ones. What we're going to do is we're going to feed the screw up through the lower stiffener plate. The kind of long direction of this X lines up with front to back of the frame. And these arm protector things will also go front to back. So this is going to line up like that. There we go. The hardest one to do is always just kind of getting the sandwich started. But once you have one of these screws in place, it gets a lot easier because you don't have to hold everything together. So I'm just going to loosely get it in there. Just enough to kind of hold things in place. Grab another long one. There you go. Now it's super easy. The arms also interlock in the middle. So you'll feel it mate up against the adjacent arms and that's going to keep things stiff and make things a little more durable. With all four arms in place and these screws just kind of in there, we're going to work our way around all these arm screws and get them tightened up. So let's go ahead and put the flight controller on our frame and then we will work from the motors back toward the flight controller. So we've got our riot control board. While we go through this build, I want to take the opportunity to answer some questions that we commonly get about our products. For this board, something that people have been asking is how hard is it to replace the gyro because we did design this around a removable soft mounted gyro case. So you're going to be able to remove this gyro and replace it with a new one if you damage it in a crash or if you want to upgrade or change to a different gyro because we will have more gyro options coming out. I have here a replacement gyro. This isn't any fancy gyro. Anything like that is just another stock gyro but I just want to show you how you do the replacement. All you're going to need are some tweezers. I love having tweezers for builds and I've got some ceramic tip ones that are really nice so throughout the build you'll see me using this and what's nice about the ceramic tip is ceramic is non-conductive so it doesn't matter if I'm touching the the circuitry. I'm not going to cause a short and damage anything and I'm going to flip up this little black clip right there and that's going to free the ribbon cable which you're going to find on the underside of the gyro. As you can see the ribbon cable passes through the board and connects on the underside so with that black piece flipped up we can then take tweezers and just gently work the ribbon cable out and then with that free now we can unscrew the gyro okay so there's just four little phillips head screws all the screws and then with that you should be able to pull the gyro off. So here we've got the gyro that I came with and we've got our new gyro. The four screws are still in the board I mean they will come out so if they fall just make sure not to lose them. To put on the new gyro you want to slide the ribbon cable through the slot and the gyro sits right on top of the processor chip so this is your gyro and it's acrylic case there's your processor chip so you just set it on top of there holding it from the underside and then I'm going to drop the screws back into flight board and we're just going to loosely get them in there just give them like one full turn in there just to hold it in place and we'll just get all four in place all right then once you have all four screws loosely threaded into the acrylic case just double check that it's seated correctly isn't sitting at any sort of weird angle and then go ahead and just gently work the screws in don't want to over tighten it because you could strip out the case just snug them up the last thing to do is to plug in the new ribbon cable so make sure that that black flap is still lifted we're going to take our tweezers and really carefully line up the cable so see the the metal contacts those should fold over and be facing the board just want to gently push it in there you'll feel it slide in the place just push down the black clip and your new gyro is installed I would definitely recommend that before you go any further plug this into your computer open up beta flight and see that the gyro is responding just in case you have the ribbon cable seated incorrectly or something like that it's easier with the the board separate so now let's get into the hardware pack that comes with the flight board in the hardware pack you've got your soft mount gummies we've got a soft mounted gyro and a soft mounted board I've really been enjoying having the two layers of physical dampening all right you're officially getting locked up and we're just going to put these soft mount gummies in the corners of our flight board all right with the gummies in there let's see how low we can mount this thing because those are going to give us a little bit of height we've got to clear the press nuts so we've got nylon nuts and a small nylon standoff I think it's like three millimeters high what I like to do go into my little hardware kit I like to use a little bit longer of a screw and just thread all the way through so I take my female female nylon standoff at it down on this longer screw don't over tighten it all right and then what you'll do is you're going to do that on all four corners you'll set the flight board down and then we've got more thread poking up and then we'll just drop the nylon screw on there throughout the build what you want to think about though is how are things going to fit together you don't want to use a screw so long that it interferes with the top plate the stock standoffs are 30 millimeters so we've got plenty of clearance there but what I might want to do is actually lower the top plate and we'll come back to that but yeah I'm pretty sure we'll still have room yeah I'm using 16 millimeter screws that will give you two millimeters to go through the bottom plate plus three or four millimeters for the nylon plus another three millimeters for the rubber grommet and another millimeter so for the nylon nut and then you'll still have some threads left over all right so we've got our four 16 millimeter screws our four small nylon standoffs and we're just going to drop our board down oh I know I almost put it backwards there is an arrow on the board facing forward I mean you can mount it either way and then remap things in Betaflight but it does make things easier if you just line up the board the way it should go so the end of the frame that has the additional 20 by 20 holes as well as some extra holes for zip tying some things down that's in the back so you want your arrow pointed toward the side that's more blank and now we're going to work from the motors through the ecs back to the flight board with our soldering let's kind of loosely feel out how things are going to lay out we've got our motor let me grab an ec so the ec is going to sit on the arm what I want to see is how much wire length should I leave on the motor you know I'm just going to go ahead and cut all the motors to be about like two fingers wide we'll solder the ec to it then when we lay it down we'll have this length of wire to get to the flight board so the screws that come with the motor for this build we're not going to use them because those screws are six millimeters long which are really good for most standard frames that have four millimeter arms but because we went with the extra durable five millimeter thick arms you're going to need to use slightly longer screws I've got all four motors cut to the length I want we're just going to give them a strip you just want to strip off like a little bit look at that just a bit and now we're going to pre-tend them all just using these this handle here all four sets of motor wires kind of up in the air and I'm just going to run around with a soldering iron got my trusty ts 100 it's going to plug right into hypo lipo 390 degrees celsius when you're soldering it's really important to keep a clean tip a lot of soldering stations come with a sponge that you wet and then clean your tip that way I actually much prefer to use this type of tip cleaner it's just like stringy metal in a container and I used to think that this was more damaging to the tip because you're like scraping it but the truth is hitting your tip with a wet sponge actually thermally shocks your soldering tip and you'll do more damage to it quickly doing that rather than actually just scraping it in the metal so either works but I prefer this so let's coat it with some fresh solder so I'm just holding the soldering iron on one side of the wire and then feeding solder into the other side you don't want to overdo it basically get the strands to keep from splitting apart I actually noticed I was a little bit less than consistent in my stripping so if you look here that's kind of the amount that I want to have stripped and that's a little bit longer what I'd recommend doing is pre-tending the longer amount and then you can actually just trim off the excess it's still tinned all the way through and now it matches better got the motors prepared now we're just going to grab all four ESCs and we're now going to pre-tend the ESCs all together again assembly line style you can touch the iron to the pad and feed solder in so that one's a little bit messy it's a little bit messy you can add some solder to your tip and then just go back in here and kind of clean it up doesn't have to be perfect because you're just going to hit it with more heat in a little bit anyway now this is going to sound like I'm over explaining but something I like to think about is which way do the tools come in for example if I solder this side first and when I go to do the next one my tweezer is going to interfere with the one behind it whereas if I come in from this side to this side I'll keep a clean path as I go all I'm doing is I'm taking the pre-tend wire end holding it on top of the pre-tend solder pad just kind of fusing them together holding the heat on so that the solder goes congruent probably good to clean and retend the solder tip in between every ESC set I've got all four motor and ESC sets let's just bolt them on to the arms now I've got some accessories that come into play so I mentioned I want to use these skids and then among all the cool pink accessories that brain 3d sent they sent arm protectors I usually don't use these but I don't know let's try something different so I think what we need are 10 millimeter screws so what you want is a screw that's long enough that it passes through all of our accessories and the arm but not so much that it goes all the way through and touches the winding if the screw is touching the winding you're going to have a short to the conductive carbon fiber damage the winding so just be careful of that and it's going to be pretty easy to see because our hype train motors don't have that bottom that that older style motors used to have we're going to go through our 3d printed thing and through the arm and I see a lot of pilots only use two screws on their motors I like to use all four it's like not that much weight and it's going to just make your build a little bit more robust all right so I've got pretty much all four motors mounted I just like to kind of pull the wires to where they're going to be and just kind of cut them on spot red positive wire goes to the big v-plus pad meant for your e-c power so we'll just kind of loop it around like that and I want to give it like enough slack so that it's got some like strain relief there we go do the other side then we'll see what we'll do with our signal and signal ground I think I'll just kind of loop it around in front there I kind of like that long like to leave again a little extra slack I always end up doing the lipo lead kind of toward the end because it kind of gets in the way but you know there is a case to be made for putting the lipo lead on earlier and along the way plugging things in and making sure everything is all right but in this case after I'm done cutting all the ESC wires to length I'm going to go ahead and do that and so then as I do each ESC and each peripheral like the camera and the video transmitter I can keep plugging it in to see if uh if a problem gets created along the way all right so let's get this power lead on again try to visualize how the build is going to look so what I could do is I could cut the lead really short and just solder it like that and the battery could plug in or I like to do is leave more length and then bring it up around the side and then hold hold the lead to the side of a battery with the strap and then kind of plug it in from behind there so we're going to cut it a little bit longer I'm going to turn up my soldering iron power because these are thicker wires the same concept as with the smaller wire but you might have difficulty getting the heat to transfer through as easily so I'm holding the iron on one side of the wire and I'm kind of touching the solder to the iron itself to get it going and then bringing the solder around to the other side so that it flows through the wire toward there and then we'll just kind of massage massage it with the tip there to make it look good I've got a little solder on one side so we'll use gravity we'll hold the bubble side up add some heat on the other side bring it through because you don't need to have too much on there that's good and I'll just do the same for the negative side so the battery solder pads on our flight board it's got like this this semicircle shape to it so you can sit the wire right in the semicircle so I want to find something that I can kind of prop the prop the quad up like that and I'm just going to hold the wire to the side of the crescent and flow it together so be oh it'll fall so this little gizmo right here is a smoke stopper as they call it and if you've got a short it should prevent components from being too damaged it's not a guarantee but if you don't have a multimeter or if you're being lazy and I don't want to go upstairs and get my multimeter you can use that so all we have soldered on so far is the lipo lead and we're just going to make sure that the flight controller is good so that yeah we got a green light we have all of the initialization light sequencing from the leds on the board itself so the board is good now we're just going to do each ESC and again along the way plug it in and see that it's working out good so just as we've been doing all along the way we pretend the wire watch out for that that just happened there what I did I was holding the soldering iron on the the wire from the underside and it slipped off and the wire flung down and solder flicked off the wire luckily it wasn't over anything and it just flicked on to my metal table but if I had the wire over another electrical component and solder gets flicked down onto that electrical component you could short out something you have a bad time so be really careful to I mean just in general try to keep yourself from doing soldering over other electrical components because you don't want anything falling down but wires are pretend pads repeat pretend I'm just gonna do like we've been doing so now that I'm doing the signal and signal ground wire I'm gonna look at which way the wires are coming from and I'm gonna bring it in like this so the signal ground wire which is on the outside of the board is going to run over the signal wire so I'm going to do the signal wire first if that makes sense so you'll see what I'm talking about so first I lay down the signal wire and then now the signal ground wire runs over the signal wire look at that it just sits like that looks good so we've got one ESC and motor set solder to the flight board the red power wire goes to the big V plus solder pad the black ground wire goes to the big V minus solder pad the white signal wire goes to s4 in this case because it's motor number four and the small black signal ground wire goes to the small minus pad so we've got one done so smoke stopper on plug it in we've got our initialization beeps from the ESC and our initialization LEDs on the flight board let's just do the other three we've got all four motors and ESCs hooked up to the flight board let's give it one more plug-in test looking good so with the soldering that you're doing at the corner is done that's a good time to put on the nylon nuts that will actually hold down the flight board I didn't do that earlier so that I'd have more room to work on the corners without running the risk of melting my nylon pieces but let's do it now before we move on too far and forget when you're tightening tightening down the flight board you want to tighten it so it just starts to snug up and you get the rubber grommets in the corners under a little bit of compression but you don't want to squish them too badly so again I just want all of them to just be snugged all right so I want to move on to some other components so let's put some thought into how our antennas are going to lay out and again work from the antennas inward so we've got these cool mounts we've got a couple different options here like with this one we could hold your receiver antennas here then you have an SMA hole this one you could hold a T style antenna in this ring and then another SMA hole but I want to use this one so we've got our two antenna holders here and then this it's going to fit perfectly with our luminear axis so check this out we feed the connector in and then the antenna will fit into that holder it just looks cool I like that a lot so I want to mount that antenna and then figure out where the video transmitter is going to sit in relation so let's grab our standoffs and something else I like about the brain 3d design is that it's actually only 20 millimeters tall so you can still use it with the standard standoffs but if you want to slam it down which we will try to do later um you've got some room to do that we've got our short screws and those thread up through the carbon into the standoff all right and we still got to worry about the receiver antennas I guess we'll feed them into the antenna holder and we want our video transmitter and our receiver to be in this back area but I don't know exactly how it's going to lay out yet so let's grab our video transmitter here's our mach 2 race day quads and plug in our antenna well I think with the amount of slack that we have on the antenna connector we don't really have an option so the video transmitter has to pretty much sit there I think yeah I think we'll do it like that we'll just have the receiver just behind the video transmitter so let's get our video transmitter taped down what I want to do before that is I want to take our leads and solder them to the video transmitter because something's kind of cool about the mach 2 is they just give you solder pads so you're not worried about a connector on your video transmitter we just need to figure out exactly which ones we're using we've got four wires we've got orange is going to be our power yellow is going to be our video signal black will be our ground and then we'll use the green wire to the audio of the video transmitter and that will hook up to a telemetry pad up front this is a nice video transmitter though I really like the solder pads the MMCX connector is going to be more durable and robust than the smaller uf.l the onboard microphone to make audio a little easier if that's something you want to fly with and an actual segmented led display so should release some confusion about what channel am I on got our wires connected just going to run that under the flight board red double-sided tape this is like body tape I got from the automotive store it's strong so now we're just lining everything up getting our antenna extension routed with a good clean bend there making sure the video transmitter is not going to overlap the standoff holes push down now I want to double check that we're not going to have interference in this standoff so let's go ahead and install two of those oh it's pretty close but we are good and let's get our second row back pair of standoffs installed the next thing we want to place is our Joshua Bardwell rotor riot run cam micro eagle pro v2 we've got a couple of different options for getting our camera mounted we've got 3d printed mounts that come with the frame kit and these are going to slide over your front standoffs look how this goes together that we're going to want it so that they flare out wide and that's going to give you a mounting provision for full-size camera so for example we've got this full-size camera and that would fit in that spot like so now we've got our micro camera and if we try to put it in here we actually run into a problem the way that this bracket sticks out forward makes it interfere with the arm end of the camera mount so you actually can't really fit it onto the mount that it comes with we've got a little bit of a hack for that check out this little hack all you do let's move these mounts backwards like that and slide it over the rear set of standoffs as i've been saying we're going to try and slam this build down and use standoffs shorter than the stock standoffs so i've got an eagle here without the adapter bracket and i've got a custom mount that is going to let me screw directly onto the micro camera and then slide over the front standoffs so if you're going all out on your build and want to do custom stuff you can get cool mounts like this from brain 3d all the stuff that they've sent along for the antennas and you'll see for the gopro and for this micro camera let you kind of customize this build to be um be different than it would be just out of the box so with our custom 3d printed mount in place you can slide that over that's looking beautiful cool all right also included with our rhodorad edition runcam micro eagle you have this little guy this is the runcam ur to control adapter so we're going to be able to use our our sticks on our transmitter to send commands to our camera to change camera settings so that's helpful if you're flying in really different lighting conditions like cloudy overcast or twilight whatever and you want to tweak your camera settings without having to plug in the extra adapter that it comes with you can do it right with your stick so this is a really cool piece so one end you've got this two wire plug and this is going to go to the menu output and to the ground so that our solder up there and then we've just got four loose wires took up to power ground uh transmitting and receiving uart so it's pretty easy to set up on the back side they've got all the pads labeled so you know exactly what goes to what so we've got the two plug harness the blue wire go into the menu and the black wire go into the ground then we've got our loose wires red is 5 volt black is ground green is tx orange is rx we'll give those a little bit of twist now we need to figure out what uart is this going to talk to uart one we're going to set up to use for our receiver and uart three that's where we're going to hook up this control adapter board to all right let's place this so we've got plenty of room up here so i'm just going to stick that down now the camera comes with some double-sided tape so that's nice and convenient so we don't have to bother cutting up the stuff i've been using stick it on there so yeah we identified that we're going to use a uart on the rear we're also going to have a five volt in the ground that we can use back there so we're just going to feed all four wires under yon flight board stick this down push and hold now here's the other wire that comes with the camera this is our positive ground and video so we will also plug this into the camera i like to just plug in the the lead and then just kind of loosely route it to where it's going to be soldered so the the pads are right here for our camera so we can just kind of hold it and then pull a little bit more to give it slack cut it yeah we've got our video transmitter placed we've got our camera in place we've got our camera control board in place we've got our receiver loose because i want to get that soldered before we tape it down but basically all the other components are in oh you got out he got out and we can start soldering up these smaller wires to the uh the flight board so so right up front we've got ground nine volt camera so we're just going to pretend those yellow is going to it's labeled camera so we label it so there's no confusion but on other flight boards that might be labeled video in because the video is going from the camera into the flight board and then for the video transmitter be video out it's going from the flight board to the video transmitter but we just labeled it cam and vtx and anyway in case you haven't done one of these boards before the reason we're hooking up the video signal to the flight board because this flight board features an onboard on-screen display so we will do pit tuning and see status and all sorts of cool stuff so then coming out from under the flight board up front we've got our video transmitter wires um got a fair amount of length there so we're just going to fold it over again loosely to where it's going to be soldered giving it some slack so our four wires are again power ground video and telemetry which they've labeled audio so i'm preaching the flight board i'm preaching the ground and nine volt the vtx and then right next to the vtx pad there's a pad labeled tx six tx six and rx six are the two pads that allow you to talk to urt six i forget exactly what it stands for but it's basically the component on the flight board that lets your processor talk to other things and each urt has a transmitter and a receiver so think about what we're going to be doing you're going to send a signal from your radio through the receiver to the flight board then the flight board has to tell the video transmitter what to do so the flight board is going to transmit a signal to the video transmitter so that's why you're going to use the tx pin because you are transmitting in this case all right everything that we're going to solder to the front row should be all hooked up camera video transmitter let's go around back so now in the back row we're going to be hooking up our receiver and we're going to be hooking up our camera control board a question that we got is how do you use a free sky receiver and get the receiver command into the flight board as well as get telemetry out from the flight board to the receiver now we only have three uarts and only one of the inputs one of them one of the receiver pads is actually inverted so there isn't a second inverted uart for you to get your telemetry out to your receiver the only additional uart we have anywhere we're going to use for the camera control board so what we're going to do is we're going to do a little bit of custom soft serial setup in beta flight to allow us to get receiver commands into the flight board and telemetry output from the flight board all on one uart for the receiver wire for the s bus wire you're going to hook it up like normal and that if you're familiar with this board it's going to require you to bridge two pads right here because s bus is inverted whereas other receivers send a non-inverted signal so what we've bridged is we've bridged this b pad with s bus you can see it really clearly on the wiring diagram right up here b and s bus so if you're using spectrum or crossfire you would bridge b and dsm but we're using s bus we bridge b and s bus and then we are going to hook up our s bus wire to rx1 inverted right there ground five volt and the s bus wire is hooked up to rx1 inverted now this last wire this is your s port wire and we are going to hook it up to tx1 so our receiver is good to go now the last thing that we need to hook up are these wires coming out the back and this is for your camera control board so we're going to grab five volt ground and we're going to use both the tx and the rx now if you recall the control board had a tx and an rx pad of its own i took a picture of the back of it because i knew once we stuck it down i wasn't going to be able to uh see the wires anymore and i want to forget what color so five volt was red ground was black and then i hooked up the green wire to the tx of the control board so now the tx of the camera control board is going to transmit to the rx of the flight control board so it's a little bit confusing at first that you hook up the tx to the rx and then of course that would mean that the rx of the camera control board would talk to the tx of the flight control board so we're going to grab the green wire and we are going to attach it to rx3 and we're going to grab the orange wire which is hooked up to the rx of the camera control board and we're going to hook that up to the tx of the flight control board and then lastly power and ground is normal see how we do everything seems to be fine the flight board is initializing we got all the confirmation tones from the esc's we got the video transmitter powered on and telling us what channel we're transmitting on we've got a receiver blinking all pissed off at us because we're not bound we've got an led on the camera control where we got everything looks to be fine so of course there's still setup to do but we've still got some some things we need to do to button up the physical build as i mentioned many times i've been trying to keep the build as low as possible because what i want to do is grab my little bag of 20 millimeter standoffs and get that slammed down so we've got tons of space so what i'm going to do now is i'm going to go around and i'm going to pull off the stock standoffs and i'm going to throw on my short standoffs all right we've got all our standoffs in place let's do another test fit of the top plate make sure everything is clearing the camera's a little bit tight we're just going to have to push it in look at that that is looking really good all right first screw it down still have to get our receiver taped down yeah i think i'm just going to kind of plop it on top of the video transmitter not ideal but it'll get the job done i might want to try to avoid covering up the button or the display but honestly i'm only really going to use the beta flight on screen display to change the settings and see the status of my video transmitter so i don't really need it let's get the top plate actually bolted down now you'll notice i haven't attached anything to the top plate we did put these just big slots in the top plate so that you could add zip ties or velcro straps or whatever you want if you want to hold something to the underside of the top plate and then there are these smaller slots in the rear so that if you want to have your antenna coming out the rear like that you can put that somebody there and then zip tie it down but i just don't like doing that stuff i'd rather spend a little bit more to get some of these 3d printed things that hold the antennas in good positions and keep the top plate free from stuff being attached to it the reason i really like the top plate to not have anything attached to it is because it makes serviceability much better when you have to take the top plate off you unbolt it and it just lifts off like the hood of a car it's not like you lift it off and it's like oh god i have to untape this thing or unplug it or or whatever or clip the zip tie and then when you put it back on if you worry about that it's just uh just goes on nice and easy i'm gonna grab one of my gopro mounts i would love to put this session mount on because i love the gopro session but i ain't got no sessions because i broke them all and they're discontinued so we're gonna be using this gargantuan hero shaped mount so we can put my hero five or six in there let's do something about these esc right now they're just on the arms they're flopping all over the place you could take some tape and just tape them down um you could use the included esc covers that's a really nice thing that they include but these aren't that durable and what the covers really should be doing is protecting your esc from prop strikes if a prop gets bent down it's gonna hear your esc that's gonna rip off surface mount components cause all sorts of damage so these do an okay job but they break pretty quickly i've tried using these see what we've got over yeah are some busted up props i pulled out of the back of my truck so we're gonna cut sections of my props we're gonna upcycle these dead props into esc covers and we'll just put the look at that that fits really nicely it's like the perfect width we're gonna put that down on top of the esc we're gonna tape it down and it's these ecs are never gonna get damaged so let's just make four of those things these ecs have an led on them which when you go into bl helly 32 configurator you can set the color of that led doesn't do anything other than look cool but don't cover up your bling so i've made sure to use props that are semi-transparent light will pass through them i'm gonna set it there and i'm gonna make sure that the electrical tape that i put on doesn't cover the led whoo look at that look at that all right all right um seeing the antenna sticking out here we should protect these got our antenna tube we'll just cut it to length so i'm just gonna kind of hold it i'm gonna pull the antenna out as far as i can go hold the antenna tube alongside it mark it with my thumb cut it we'll take that piece oh yeah the umagrip super sticky battery pad right on right on the nose tommy right on the nose okay a little piece here we're gonna stick that unfortunately covering up our pretty skull logo let's give it the old oh yeah come on come on but just because it does stick doesn't mean that i'd fly without a strap so got some drippy straps this build is done all we have left to do is plug it into beta flight set up the flight board pop a gopro in here get some props on and it is ready to rip so thank you guys for joining me in building this quad hopefully you learned something picked up some tips and tricks along the way leave a comment with what's the most frustrating part of building a drone for you and if you have any hacks or whatever include that as well i always love learning new little tricks to make the build cleaner easier quicker whatever link in the description to all the parts we used on this build in the description store dot rotor riot dot com you can get everything we used here so let's get this quad in the air and rip