 All right, so this is Generac. This is one of their, what I call the first generations. Problem with this monster here is it has no choke on it. This is also the one that has all kinds of issues with the fuel regulator back here that has a tendency not to work right and stick. And so today we're gonna have to come here and replace the battery. So change the battery and lo and behold, what always seems to happen, there's always more to it. So it ran for a while the first time and now we got a over speed flashing green, flashing red, over speed bling. Can't have to look to see what that is, I forget. We're gonna check the frequency and voltage. So get in there and see what we got going on and see if our frequency is truly over or if it's just another false alarm and a control board's bad or this shoddy governor stuff here they got. It's all manual, the thing had issues. The springs get loose, they get tight, they fall off. There's just so many issues with these old ones that I've had so many issues with this. This is the ones I started out on back in 06. It sounds negative, but I've seen too many problems with these and it just never seems to go away. I'm gonna say the voltage regulator's probably out. Now we'll probably have frequency but no voltage. No voltage and that wasn't even an option. So I about bet you anything, we popped this top and will not have a red light on the voltage regulator which was another thing that failed all the time on these. They originally didn't give you a bolt for this disconnect box looking junction box. Kids could get in there and get electrocuted and then you can see the so-called professional installation here. Last of my check, I don't think that's proof for outside use, but you know what do I know? Okay, watch this LED on the voltage regulator here. See if it lights up, bet you it don't. There's a fix excitation winding test that you gotta do which I'll go ahead and do for giggles but it should show us that the voltage regulator's junk. The other issue we got too with these old ones is the voltage out of the battery charger here is very, very aggressive which will blow the batteries up if they get slightly low on water. The reason why they go low on water is because it overcharges them. It's not true trickle charger. So it was another issue they had. Another thing they did, it was kind of stupid. This dual voltage transformer here, this powered the battery charger. So instead of having it all integrated into one thing, they powered a transformer that powered the battery charger. Anyhow, let's go ahead and do the fix excitation here real quick and condemn it. All right, so we just got done doing our fix excitation winding test here and basically our voltages and amperages, whether or not what it's doing when you send a positive 12 volts to the stator. And what we're coming up with is got to be term injects. I gotta look at the chart. So let's take a look here and see what we got. We got model number 4456. So we look through here, 4456. So let's just continue looking across here as we find what we need. So we went ahead and finished it up there, disconnecting some terminals back here, isolating the other side of the stator and slip rings and all that happened. It's all said and done. We do have a flash voltage going to our slip rings or should to say going to the voltage regulator. So the voltage regulator is bad, which I kind of presumed was the case, but since I wanted to be 100% certain because you can't return parts like electrical stuff, I wanted to make dang sure. So yep, it's bad. That's what's wrong with this thing. So they're gonna need a new voltage regulator, bad battery, bad voltage regulator. When we get done, it should run fine. We had like 103 volts on average coming out of the generator when I did my test. So it does generate voltage when there is a fixed voltage going into the stator or into the rotor, creating the magnetic field. All right, so we're back again. We've got the voltage regulator here, which we're gonna get that installed. This is kind of an easy but a pain in the butt thing to have to do. You gotta get those screws out there and just swap the wires out. Generally these come tuned all the way down. So you gotta make sure you adjust the voltage to it. That way it's set correctly and then we'll check all the other things too, far as frequency and all that. Cause this is an old fashioned one that has a mechanical governor that can get loose and then the frequency gets out of whack. Things have changed quite a bit since this thing was built. Problem is, it's so expensive to get rid of it just because all the technologies change. It's hard to justify it. There we go. And we'll go ahead and put the date on that so we know for later. We're gonna go ahead and get this thing set up here. Gonna get her started and then we're gonna tune it in. Usually somewhere at around 243 to 249 volts but I usually shoot for about 243 to 246 area. So let's go ahead and see if she runs and go from there. What's a little bothersome here is it didn't produce voltage at first but then it did on the second go around. So I don't know what the story is on that but that kind of bothers me that we may have some issues. So I'm gonna go ahead and do her again and see what we get. Really not impressed with this horse pucky here. So we're gonna change that out. I don't know why people are so lazy. They can't just change things. It's just ridiculous. Don't be one of those lazy guys, just leaves things lay. I kind of wonder what other things around your house look like if that's the way you leave your work. All right, so we got that mounted in there. It was a Phillips screwdriver, a little small one. Just loosen that up and put it in there. So that was always required for that. I think we've already done, checked our oil here. Yep, we're good. It's another real great collar. It's really hard to see sometimes. You know, let's go ahead and check our battery and make sure it's charging like it should. Okay, got another look. Let's go to DC volts. 13.84, looks to me like it's working. Start it up. Starts up and seems to work. Now I don't believe they're home. So only thing we can do now to test the transfer switches to unplug the harness and see if it starts up, which is right here is the reason why they got rid of this design because right now if you used to grab a hold of that it was running, it shocked the crap out of you. These are your wires that go to the transfer switch. Two of them go to the transfer switch. Two of them are the power wires that tell the generators to start up and run. So we'll go ahead and pull these apart. DC voltage going to the transfer switch to switch it back, but obviously it didn't switch. So try to go down there to grab a relay out on that. All right, so we have the 12 volt DC coming down. They actually switched the ground. So I have an issue with our relay. Kind of love it. All right, so we're back again for the third time because we needed parts every time. So we've got a new board here. We're gonna replace this one. I've got the fuse pulled, got everything turned off. Technically you should probably go ahead and unhook the battery and get it completely shut down so everything's safe to go. You know, once again, guys, I'm not doing this for homeowners. I'm doing it for guys that are in the generator classes and stuff that have issues or just are curious. This is not intended for you guys to do the work yourself. You know, I don't want any liability for you guys doing anything that causes damage or death or whatever. So all right, so we've made sure that our dip switches are all set the same as what the original board was. Looks like they've made a few updates to it, a different chip, got rid of some of these old IC chips, went to some newer surface mount stuff. Anyhow, like I said, this one here has got a issue, I think in the logic circuit. Looks like 2004 right there. So we've got the board in there. We're gonna go ahead and get it put back into place and test this thing out. Go ahead and put our system fuse back in. Should blink all together. If you put it on auto, what it's doing, it's because it lost the exercise date. So when we end up putting this into exercise and hold it for 10 seconds, it's gonna tell it right now, next week at this time, it's going to do its test. So let's go ahead and get some of these things off of the generator and run it through that, make sure it kicks on. Hopefully, you know, this time to actually produce the voltage. That board is in charge of doing flash voltage to the rotor. I misspoke on another spot in the video, so I'll have to fix that, or basically this is your disclaimer to tell you that, yeah, I misspoke. Pulling all this crap out of your head without, you know, a script or anything. Ain't always the easiest thing in the world. You're gonna make some mistakes on what you say. So I just am sharing what I got here and what I've found over the years, just because they can be very much a pain in the butt in the beginning, beginning years, trying to figure out all their flukes and flaws and everything else. So when this thing starts up, we should see that red LED light on the voltage regular kick on and should see they could blink in. Okay, let's try it one more time. Then we're gonna go in, we'll trip the breaker to the transfer panel. You gotta make sure that that breaker is on or it won't transfer over. Okay, that's fine. Let's go ahead and see if it does it manual. All right, very good. Let's go ahead and put it in auto. Go downstairs and we'll trip the transfer switch, make sure it switches over and then we'll make sure it switches back. All right, so it kicked right on. We're going to flip it back and we'll see if it transfers back. Should build here the click. All right, so we're still waiting for it to transfer back. Let's see what we got out here. It's fucking Scott's power because it's not blinking. All right, so we're on generator right now. Pulled the fuse out. It energized our relay here, pulled shut. This is dangerous. Don't be playing in here unless you know what you're doing and you've been trained by Generac. I don't want to be responsible for you guys blowing your fingers off or blowing something up, killing yourselves, whatever the case. There's your disclaimer. So what it is is this relay is powered with 12 volts DC when it is supposed to transfer over to the generator. So we come down here to between the two of them. You got 13.6 volts. So when we put that fuse back in, she should switch back. It should remove the ground wire from 23 and these should relax. My relay's sticking. I wanted one of these, but unfortunately, even though they only had two that I know of at this particular switch, they needed that flipping part number up there and they couldn't help us out. Let's put it back together and see what we get. And it worked. So that piece of trash was sticking. Now, one problem I had originally was that control board controls my voltage going to my rotor and it didn't produce voltage one time. So I think I got both things acting up. So I did switch over, I'll pull the fuse again, see if it energized back. That relay's basically just sticking for whatever reason. And just switch back again. It's three times, it's done perfectly fine. So that's really making it, makes it really wonderful. So just a freaking single pull, double throw relay. Actually, double pull, double throw relay, 12 volt coil. All right, that's where we're gonna have to wrap the video up cause I didn't get all the last shots of what I ended up doing. Essentially what ended up happening and I made a mistake there because I don't do the generators near like I used to and I've mentioned that a million times. The way that transfer switch relay works, it's a constant 12 volts all the time. They switch the negative on and off from the control module in the generator itself. And when I was getting the negative voltage, it was playing with my mind because I completely forgot how it worked. And what it was doing was getting a stray voltage off of the control module. The relay definitely was bad. Now, if you remember what I said in the beginning there, it didn't produce voltage on the first start. That gave me reservations on the control module itself. So that's why I ended up ordering the control and the relay both. Kinda sounds like a parts changer, but I knew the guy that owns this generator personally and I asked him what he wanted to do. And he said, look, I have a basement that's gonna cost me a lot of money if things fail. I don't wanna take a chance on it, just order the parts, I want it done right. So he ended up choosing to do that. That's why we went ahead and did that. Because I mean, it's one of those things, when it's truly an emergency and you lose power, you really don't have the second chances and you may not have that part if the power goes out at midnight, you know what I'm saying? So other than that, everything else was by the book and worked as it was. So that ends this video. I appreciate you guys taking the time to watch it this far. I appreciate each one of you that has subscribed. If you haven't subscribed yet, please consider doing so. Check us out on Facebook at HVACRsurvival. Basically for anything that is smaller, that's not worth making into a video or pictures or where you have groups where you guys can ask each other questions and help each other out. That's what the Facebook page is for. Other than that guys, till next time, we'll catch you on the next one.