 Well, if you watched my previous video on how to take a cam out, what I had done was I wired this up. So I took this gear out and I've got the chain hanging on a wire. So I'm about to remove the head and what I got going on is I got a head gasket leaking and coolants going into the piston. So what you do is you got these funny looking bolts here. You take a 14mm socket like this, it's a 12 point, it's got to be a 12 point that will fit on there real nice and that breaks them loose and you can take them out. You want to make sure that chain is wired up here because you don't want to lose that as you'll be fishing for it. So bottom you'll have to take the flywheel off. Also keep in mind after these four bolts, there are two that are down over here by the opening. Take that panel off to access the chain and the gear and it's 2.8mm bolts that get unbolted. I hope you guys can still see. Now this one I left so you guys can see how I crack it open, it's just pretty tight. Just take a hammer, give it a little pop, break it loose, take those off, I'll have to feed my chain through the head while I'm taking it off. There you have it, let's see it was leaking right here. What I should really do is unbolt the jug and put a new gasket at the bottom so I've got that gasket too but I don't think I need to worry about that, I think it's just this top that's leaking, I can see the parts where it's leaking, it was leaking right here, I think that's where it warped a little bit. So I'm going to go ahead and clean that up and then reinstall it. Alright so I cleaned everything up, you got the new gasket on, it's kind of foolproof you can only put it on one way because of the dull pins, now I'm going to put the head back in, feed the chain through, so the tricky part about this is going to be torquing everything down, feed this through, start on my hand, so I'm just taking a little oil and dipping it in there, acts like a cutting oil, so I'll do that to all four, I'll get them snug and then go through the torque process, okay so what I'm going to do is I'm going to put a mark on each one of the bolts on the top, only because this torque sequence is very weird for Polaris, so torque it down 22 foot-pounds first and then 51 and then after that you have to back it off, tighten it a quarter of a turn, back it off, I'll kind of go through everything, 22 foot-pounds in each one, we'll go a criss-cross better, snug these up 22, 22, so the next step is we'll go up to 51, 51 foot-pounds, now it says loosen it up to 180 degrees or half a turn and then tighten it at 11 foot-pounds, so that's where the marks come into play, tighten it at 11 foot-pounds, now it says tighten it another quarter of a turn and then step seven is tighten it another quarter of a turn, so that's where your marks come in, another quarter of a turn, now I'm just going off the marks, so don't pay attention to how many times I'm ratcheting, I've got marks, this mark's going straight down, I'm going to turn that a quarter turn, now the next step says give it one more quarter turn and I'm going to bump this torque wrench back up, it feels like struggling too much, what you're doing is basically you're using the threads and you're cutting it, I've got these two bolts to put in down here, those are eight millimeters and I don't know the torque specs on those, you've got an eight millimeter, just tighten until your neck muscles tighten up, that's what I always do, there you go, put your gear back on and I'll hang it back up, get it ready for the cam installation.