 Hey everybody, welcome back to Retro Tech. I am Steve and I hope you are ready to be entertained with the art of CRT calibration. So today I have the Sony PVM 1353 MD unit that in a prior video I recapped the power board and it also got a geometry cap kit installed in it. And then now I had it pieced back together and today we're going in and doing some final adjustments on it and really getting it tweaked in. The first things I want to do is just show you the overall condition of the screen but I want to get it a little bit sized up to actually start calibrating and that's one of the first things I'll do and that generally means sizing up the vertical size and the horizontal size so that majority of the picture is actually visible. So one of the first things I have to start with here is this yoke assembly. Okay because you could see how on that grid pattern that I pulled up on the 240p test suite the screen was tilted a little bit. Now that's a pretty common problem so you can do what I'm doing right here either a little bit or to this extreme which is pretty much an entire reseeding of this yoke on the tube. So I'm loosing that screw that you saw and then I gently twist and pull back on the entire yoke assembly till it breaks free and I like to go in and just reseed it against the back of the tube and then I can position it carefully against the tube and tighten the screw a little bit. Now there's one thing I need to mention this whole entire process I just did was with the tube turned off. I didn't actually sew that in the video but just so you know when I went in and really manhandled that yoke it was with the crt power down it was not powered on because right now I'm going and I have it pretty set in a good starting position and then see I'm turning the tube back on after I tighten that screw a little bit it's just slightly tightened it's not completely over tightened because you can see I still need to adjust my yoke a little bit more. So when you have your yoke assembly loosened a little bit you can start making this type of an adjustment to make sure that the screen is set straight so I'm doing a pretty drastic swing back and forth of the yoke here and then you can see it has a drastic effect on the screen but once you get it mostly set then you can just adjust it a little bit at a time and try to make that horizontal picture on the top of your screen right there next to the bezel make it even and parallel along that top line and just twist the yoke back and forth a little bit till you get set in the right position and finally go and push it all the way up against the back of the tube and and just tweak it in with those final little twists and once you get it set to the spot you like you could go back and go back to the yoke and then apply a you know go back and tighten that screw so that the yoke won't move again because what you want to do is you just want to get it set and at the same time make sure that it doesn't move again so the next portion of controls we're going to discuss are on the back of the neckboard now for the 1353 and so if we look in here under here we've got a couple potentiometers and this is a pretty hot spot to get into or a hard spot I say this first knob you can't see it's in black it's the focus adjustment potentiometer now I'll tag to a video I've done that greatly describes how to adjust focus and it's very short so I'll tag it right here in the video if you want to check that out and come back you can but there's another spot on here we're more concerned with and that is this white potentiometer next to the focus adjustment and that's our horizontal static convergence adjustment and we're going to need to make an adjustment with that to make sure that our convergence is parallel lined up horizontally we'll have to do other convergence tests and checks and also adjustments but this one is definitely the easiest convergence adjustment to make and I'll show you a little bit more on how that works on a video or in the video today but I've also done another video on that that will be tagged in this video now if we look at the back of this neckboard there are two potentiometers down in this area that we're going to take a quick look at this other one it says focus again because it's the back of that same potentiometer that you couldn't see and you can adjust that one for focus if your screen looks blurry at all we will adjust that one today we're not going to adjust this one which says it's labeled screen this is your voltage going into your screen so unless your screen is extremely dim and you can't get it any brighter using the brightness knobs then you can go in here and try to turn this up a little bit or if you have too much brightness you may have to turn that down a little bit all right so I told you the first thing we're going to get in here and adjust is this horizontal static convergence potentiometer now it's a little tricky to get in there and adjust it but you'll notice it separates the red green and blue lines horizontally on that checkerboard and then we're also going to be adjusting the focus which I'm just trying to look at these dots and make sure that they are just as in focus as possible while I turn that potentiometer using a screwdriver okay so those are the two adjustments on the back of the neck board that you'll most likely be working on now what I'm using here is a convergence lens and again I've done a video detailing this lens so if you want more details on it specifically I'll tag that video but this lens allows me to check the convergence of each beam vertically and I could see how far each beam is off vertically because that's the real challenge is getting the beam to line up vertically you don't have a nice potentiometer like you do with the horizontal conversion adjustment you have to go in and adjust these using rings and this tool is very helpful because you can check each area of the screen you can't just check one spot of the screen you have to look at every area on your screen and make sure that you're you know evenly distributing those beams and one isn't more converged than the other so here's the area that we have to unfortunately go after and attack to do this adjustment right now for converges and that are these rings so I'm going to break down these six rings and they're broken up into three sets of two and I'll explain what each one does so the first two rings I have circled here are purity rings these do not affect your convergence so if you only have a convergence problem and your purity is there's no problems with your purity meaning that you don't have any odd discoloration in areas of your screen then you don't need to adjust these first two rings you'll only be concerned with the back four rings each with a set of two so those are the purity rings and the second middle set is our red versus blue rings and I've got it circled down here because that ring is barely barely visible down there and this one's up here and then I've got the third two rings which is the closest one to the neck board that's green versus magenta which magenta is just the mix of our red and blue so I'll show you here real quick how to actually adjust these rings and I'll have some more graphics pop up on the screen to help explain this more because you have to actually move the rings first way to do it would be to push the rings together and it's literally pushing the space between them closer together or opposite of that you actually pull the rings apart a little bit and make a larger distance between the rings now when I say the rings I just mean the ring set so just the two rings on whatever ring set you're working on either the first set or the second set and then the third part of that adjustment is to actually just spin the whole set of rings around the yoke assembly and just turn it and see how that reaction that has on your screen and I've got my screen showed in a little bit of a fast motion here but just shows you how tedious it is to kind of go back and forth you've got to constantly check each side of the screen and go and turn each one of those little rings you know a little bit see what happens a little bit more see what happens a little bit more see what happens sometimes you have to go back and forth a little bit so it's a very detailed and as you could see tedious job and I think that's the reason most people avoid it but this one really needed it because there was just some bad convergence in some of these corners and this is about you know 30 minutes later I've finished up for the most part now I have not started with the geometry yet this is just that convergence and yoke setup that we've got now that it's in place though going through right now and I'm applying a light high temperature epoxy and it's just a two power caulk I'm sorry it's not even an epoxy it's a caulk I started using this caulk because it doesn't it's easier to pull off if I need to again but it's also durable and good enough and safe to be in use here as a replacement for the original stuff and it'll keep the neckboard from moving it'll keep those rings in place sometimes they'll want to shift around so you don't want them to move again after you spend all that time you know setting them in place so that caulk takes a couple hours to harden and set up but now I'll go back and just give it a tap and it's pretty well dried now and I can now go back and turn the monitor back on and start doing the geometry adjustments to it and so to do geometry adjustments I recommend that you get your monitor nice and warmed up and it just means you get it started let it go for you know 30 minutes before you start making any of these configuration adjustments however I do um you know I'm going to show you a little bit of my footage here again in fast motion of me I make an adjustments on this monitor but I do have a detailed video one of the ones I again will card or tag right here that is telling you exactly how to get in and do these specific adjustments on this monitor in the submenu it tells you how to get in there and how to make all the adjustments but after a couple of you know hard hours of work on making adjustments and setting up this screen you can tell how just I mean it's in really great shape now after everything that's been done to it it's got um I mean it's it's almost complete I say because I still have to go on and put the shell and recheck the calibrations after that and and let it run for a while and test but this is you know the kind of the results you could expect to get after you do a lot of this work do it right the cap kit helps because you don't have to worry about any of these values changing over time or not being set right this is one of the last test patterns or you know the tests that I like to run and that's a scroll test it's in the 240p test suite and it lets you scroll back and forth and you could see if you have any like wonkiness in your screen or linearity issues so that's pretty much well it for this monitor I mean it's been cleaned everything's nicely adjusted last thing it needs to do is just have the shell reinstalled and then just remember that you have the six screws on the outside of the shell and then the four screws on the back and then the very last thing I do is I go in and I hit a hit the monitor with a nice retro tech sticker since it has been you know given a good decent amount of restoration that way whoever has it next will know that it's been well taken care of and that it has had some capacitor replacements and had a full gamut of adjustments done and completed so that's the process for going through and future proofing your Sony PVM or any real CRT display that you're worried about having and having it work for a long time that's the way to do it and I just wanted to say if there's anything that anybody who watches this was to add in the comments below and say you know if you have anything else that you'd like to add to maybe this process and either that or have me go through more in depth next time or maybe there's something I can even add to this to make it an even better process I'm well open to discussion on that so please leave a comment thanks again for watching today and have a great week and I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content