 the Butterick 6386 Lisette Windbreaker Sew Along. You guys, we are rockin' and rollin'. In today's video, we are gonna be constructing the back. We are also gonna be attaching the back to the front. Very exciting stuff. So it's a little bit of a long video cause there's, you know, a lot of steps in this. And similar to the second video in the Sew Along where we constructed the front, I'm not going to stand here and tell you that this is the easiest of all the sewing because it's not, but I believe in you and I know that you believe in yourself and so we can do this. I will hold your hand through every single step. Just take your time, find some confidence, find some patience and we will do this together. So let's head to the sewing table where I can show you the first step. Okay, so the very first step for our back is to cut these little one and a half by one inch squares. You're gonna need one for each buttonhole. We've got two buttonholes on the back and two buttonholes in the hood. So I'm gonna set these aside, keep them close by cause our hood is our gonna be our next video. So we're not too far behind, too far away from doing that. All right, so then we're gonna take piece number five which is right here and where we place those buttonhole markings during our cutting out phase of the video. Then we are going to on the wrong side of the fabric based a one by one and a half inch rectangle of self fabric to the wrong side of the back under the buttonhole markings. So we're gonna place them like this where the tall side goes lengthwise on the back of the back piece and we're gonna do one on each side. So we're gonna baste around this rectangle then flip the garment over and then sew our buttonholes. So I actually need to transfer these markings to the front like so. Now I have my buttonhole marking on the right side. Again, at our machine, we are gonna place this guy on here baste all around him, turn the piece over and do our buttonhole stitch which I'll talk you through when we get to the machine. All right, now we are gonna switch to our buttonhole foot. Mine looks like this and then to make the buttonhole longer or shorter, you move this guy. So I came up with a little scrap piece of fabric where I have transferred the size of our buttonhole onto it and I am going to try and get this thing as close to the same size as that buttonhole. This does not in any way have to be exact or perfect because we're not actually putting a button through or we're just doing some courting. So it can actually even be smaller. It can be really whatever you want. I'm gonna try and stick to the pattern. For this first time, like I've said a thousand times I'd like to do what the pattern tells me to do the first time and then I will go my own way, Steve and Tyler, on the next round. Okay, so you remove your regular presser foot. You put your buttonhole foot down. Mine has this little doodad that drops down in the back and then I've folded my fabric over to simulate two layers, which is what we are gonna have. And I just wanna test this A to make sure that my machine is operating as it should and B that the setting that I have for the length and the type of buttonhole that I'm gonna choose are both gonna work for this fabric. So I've got it lined up with the markings. All right, that's the one that I'm doing and it's number 53 on my chart. So you can see it right there in the middle. Okay, so as you can see, that is not working great. Right, so, good thing we're testing. I am gonna move now to 51, which is just your standard rectangle with the zigzags up the sides. Let's try this one. All right, it's hard to say why your machine likes one buttonhole stitch versus another, but you can see the second one that we did there looks beautiful. It might be a little bit long. Here, we can compare it to the back piece here and you can see that, yeah, it's a good three eighths of an inch too long. So I'm gonna make this shorter in the back and then I'll give her one more spin just to make sure it's gonna work. All right, there's my second one. It's a lot shorter. I guess it's technically my third one. And if we hold these two things up to each other, that's about perfect. It might still be a little bit long, so I'm just gonna ping it back a couple of notches and then just go with it. Okay, and so now we've got our buttonhole here with our basting stitches going around that little patch in the back and go for it. Okay, and there we go. We have our buttonhole reinforced with the little tab of fabric, but go ahead and do it to the other side of your garment as well. All right, so we have our buttonholes in, aren't they gorgeous? Now this is gonna feel, our next steps are gonna feel a little bit familiar because we are doing a similar situation that we did to the front to the back and that involves attaching this yoke and sleeve for the back. So you've already done this, right? This is nothing new, but we need to do it for the back as well. So I am gonna scoot through this one a little bit faster than I did for the front. If you need that like step-by-step visual, go ahead, go back to the video where the front is, it's pretty much the exact same thing. So these are my right sides. We're gonna move this out of the way for a moment and just work on our sleeves. So we've got this little, there's a dot here and then there's some markings and we are going to sew, reinforcing where this notch is and then clip into that too, but not through the stitching that we are just about to make, okay? All right, so our next step is actually to attach these two things. And I know this is gonna seem so weird because you probably thought this was a shoulder seam, but it's not. This is actually our center back. So I'm gonna finish them individually and then sew them together. So you do that if you want to as well or you can just sew them together and finish them together too. So I just sustained a wound. It's not as bad as it looks. This is literally the smallest bandaid I had, but I nicked myself with the tip of the scissors when I was clipping the threads. Keep your fingers out of the way, folks. So I cleaned it, put some new spawn on it and like I said, it's not this big. It's like a little nick, but it's all I had. So if you see me now that I'm back and I have the same longest bandage on, that's what happened. Okay, so let me press this open really quickly and we will have something that looks like this, which does that look familiar? Because that is the same shape as this. So that's where we're going next. Take a deep breath. We will all survive, I promise. Okay, so I find the easiest way to do this is to lay your back piece wrong side up. Okay, so where your little patches are facing up. Then lay the sleeve and yoke that we just sewed, also wrong side up. Then you were gonna pinch these two things together like this and now they are right sides together. So I wanna put a little mark to mark the center. I always forget to do this whenever things have a center fold. So I apologize, but it's real easy to do after the fact. Okay, so now we've got that little mark there. So that is gonna be where we line up that seam that we just sewed, okay? So go ahead and do that one. And then where we did that reinforced seam, that is where this corner is gonna go. So this all of this should feel very, very similar to what we did for the front. It's the same thing, just a slightly different shape. I'm gonna draw in my seam allowances so I know where the X marks the spot is. You guys remember X marks the spot. Let's be a little more accurate with our X. So we've got an X here and an X on the other side. Put a pin through one X and a pin through the other X. And then make sure your pin is perpendicular and that it's not shifting any one way. Like so, anchor that. And now you've got this to work with and then you're gonna come around here and attach these as well, matching up your notches and your raw edges. And then you're gonna sew all the way around all four pieces. One, two, three, four. Again, you can do it in parts if you want. If you wanna just do this little curved section, you know, break your stitches, then come and do this section, break your stitches, you know what I mean? That makes it a little bit more digestible for me and it doesn't feel so overwhelming when I'm at the machine. So that's what I'm gonna do. So follow along. All right, so our first problem is that I don't think these notches match up and I don't know if it's my fault or theirs, but I know that this is not supposed to be like super eased in. So I'm just going to, you know, do my own thing and ignore those notches. They're off by about an inch. I mean, that could be them. It could be me, it could be the pattern. At this point, it doesn't matter, right? The pattern's printed and my fabric's cut, so we just have to kind of make it work. So that's what we'll do here. And then I'll go sew this single portion. Today is just gonna be a really clumsy day where I poke myself a thousand times, cut myself open, you know, all that. So now I'm gonna stitch just from the X marks the spot all the way to the raw edge. Okay, so I meant to point out earlier, we have a little flag here too. I don't know why they do that. Okay, so now that we have that all sewn and you can check the back that it just starts right where it's supposed to and then, you know, it goes off the edge. Now we need to do this section. So this is gonna be eased in a little bit. You can tell that the back piece is a little bit longer than the yoke piece, and that's okay. You just come every, I don't know, I just like to do halfway and then half of that and then fill in the blanks if I need to. And that's usually good enough. Okay, and then we can check our work and see if there's any puckers. There's a little one, ow. I literally cannot stop hurting myself today. But we can see if sometimes you can just kind of like finger schmooch those around with your nail and it'll come out. Sometimes it's like, well, it doesn't really matter. But when you turn it to the right side, you wanna see if you can see it. And yes, you can, you can see a little guy right there. So I'll pick that out just a little bit on each side and flatten it out a little bit. But other than that, we got a really beautiful corner, right? So go ahead and do the rest of this the exact same way. All right, you guys, we did it. We did it. Here's what mine ended up looking like. I could do a better job pressing that super flat. But either way, here's mine, okay? Just to kind of give you an idea of certainly not perfect, but it's in and did the very best that I could with the fabric and everything that I have going on and I am quite proud. Okay, something that's not in the instructions that I always end up writing into mine because I always forget is to go ahead and insert your label. Now, because this is an online jacket, we do not have like, if we stitch on a label, it's gonna show through on the other side. So you have a couple of options here. Just go with that. You see a lot of jackets that have like a square showing from the wrong side where the label is or label weavers has an iron on version that I have used time and time again on knit garments, washed, dried in the dryer and those suckers do not come off. So that's probably what I will be using. I do think that it would be lovely if you had like a longer one. This isn't looking good. But if you had a longer one that was like, that covered some of this seam, I think that would be really cute too. But either way, decide what you wanna do for your label and go ahead and attach it. All right, there's my label. It's very hot. So I did use a pressing cloth and followed the instructions and it's on there. I mean, I can't even begin to tell you. I don't know what kind of like super glue they use, but these are them label weavers. I'll have a link in the description box. I also have a coupon code that you guys can use for any label weavers labels. So yeah, they're really, really good. Okay, and let's see, where's my yoke again? So what I'm thinking is go ahead and I don't know, attach this onto here and just tack it into the seam allowances by hand. Won't that be pretty? Cause you know, right here is gonna be our seam allowance for our hood is gonna come down this far. So I mean, I guess I could in theory just keep it right there. I don't know, I'm gonna play around with it some, but that's what my label is going to look like. I might even do the serger stitches around the edge of this to give it like a decorative flair. That's the beauty about making your own clothes. You can make your own labels too and have it be as flair-y as you want. So that's what I'm gonna do. So you do yours, okay? We're gonna pretend like mine is done and we're gonna move on. So they also want us to top stitch this portion of the garment. So they have us, well, they don't tell you. No, they do, press seam allowances toward yoke and sleeve back, which I've already done. So you can see that all my seam allowances are going out like this, up and out. So when we go to top stitch this guy, the seams are already in place. So we're gonna top stitch from here to here and then we're also gonna do that thing where we pivot into the seam allowance. So we're gonna start our stitching right here in the corner, stitch out two or three stitches, pivot, come all the way down here, pivot and two or three stitches back into the seam allowance again. Our next step, I'm gonna go ahead and just address it now. Our next step is gonna be to stitch the back to the front along this long sleeve edge. So again, I am going to surge all of my raw edges individually before I sew them together. I think that'll be the most comfortable way to wear this. So I'm also gonna surge these and then when we're at the sewing machine, I'll show you stitching this and also the underarm seam. So this will all get surged as well. This will all get surged and then I will just, when we get to this corner, my surging is gonna kind of just fall off toward the bottom here because we have that beautiful facing that we are gonna attach and then they want you to baste the sides together. So I'll show you all of that, all three of those steps at the sewing machine so we're not going back and forth. And then we'll come back here to talk about the hem facing which is such a great detail. All right, so I've got everything surged like I want. And now we are gonna do that top stitching on the yoke. So again, I'm dropping my needle right in the corner of the yoke. I'm gonna stitch up, I think three. One, two, one, maybe just two. I'll go with three. And then back stitch three, one more. And then up three again, pivot. And then just follow that seam all the way down. This top stitching might be a really good way for me to anchor my label on the other side for the bottom. Let's do that. Sorry, bit of an afterthought. Okay, so if I want this to go in here, like so, let me find the center. I'm always not centering. Okay, I went ahead and surged it as well. She's a little bit, she's a little bit afraid, but that's okay. Like so, and then we're coming down a little bit. Oh, this is gonna be such a cute idea. Okay, just kind of get it in a little bit with a flat pin. All right, let's keep going. Let's see how we did. Oh, so cute. So we'll just pin this in like this for now. And then I will tack that down and then we'll have a completely hidden and concealed little label. Awesome, so happy about that. Okay, our next step is the arm, the top of the arms, I guess, top of the sleeve. So you wanna take your backside, right side up, your front side, right side down. I have transferred, because I surged everything, I transferred the snips that we made into these little markings and so we'll be able to match those up as we go and just straight stitch at your seam allowance. I ended up trimming a little bit off as I surged. So my new seam allowance is a half an inch. So that's what I'm gonna be doing mine at, depending on how you finished your seam allowances will determine what your new seam allowances for this seam as well. But yeah, mine's gonna be half an inch for the arms and the side seams. And then just repeat this for the other sleeve. Okay, now obviously I would be going to press these, all these seams open and flat as well, which we will do. But I'm just gonna move on to the side seams now, but basically you're taking your jacket, the other side of the sleeve, matching up those raw edges again, well, mine aren't raw, mine are surged, but matching up those edges again, sewing all the way down through the armpit where the yoke and all that is attached and then down the side seam again. Now remember, we're just basting this one, okay? And they want us to baste all the way down to where the hem of the front ends. So we're gonna baste just to here and then stop, we're not gonna go into any of this curve or anything. So set your machine to a basting stitch and pin up your side seam and baste it together, both sides. Okay, so at this point, go press open your arm, your sleeve, the tops of your sleeves, go press those open using the sleeve board or the smaller edge of your ironing board. All right, she's looking like a jacket now, I've ever seen one. All right, we can put all of this away for the moment because we are gonna be working on our hem facing and the first step they want us to do, let me mark my right side, hold on, is to finish the long, unnotched edge. Finish long, unnotched edge of lower back facing, lower back facing. The unnotched edge is actually the inner edge, this top edge up here, so like the inner curve. So run all of this through your serger or hem it down, however you're handling your raw edges, do that. And then we're gonna pin the facing to the lower edge of the back and sides, I'll show you all that here in a second, let me go finish this. All right, so here is my facing, now we are gonna attach this right sides together, so grab your jacket, lay everything out as flat as you possibly can, and then this guy is gonna go right sides together like so. So I need to mark my centers, so have your jacket inside out with the front facing up. Okay, now you can see better. So we're gonna go like this, and we're gonna pin this all around, keeping these raw edges together, and then over here, these two, all of this gets overlapped. So at this point, we have three layers of fabric, we have our back, our front, and our facing all in one area. And so when you go to your machine and stitch this, oh, I need to fix that, you're gonna be stitching around this curve and then continuing into the side seam and then down your sleeve again. If I would have written these instructions, I would have said to stitch your sleeve at like the regular stitch length, and then once you turn this curve, then switch to a basting stitch, but too late for that now, I'll write that in the instructions and do that for next time. But this is how this is all gonna look. So let's get it pinned into place. All right, again, go to your machine starting at the end of one sleeve at a regular stitch length up and around, and then start catching all of this. Go around the lower edge and then back up and around the other side. All right, we are almost done with today's video, I promise, I know it's been a lot, but our next step is to trim seam allowances of this little facing. And so you're just gonna kinda come in at an angle down here and then just come around the curve. Okay, so now they want us to turn this to the wrong side, turn it to the inside, meaning turn your whole jacket inside out, turn all of this to the inside. Here, let me get you right side up here. Turning all of this to the inside like this, and then topstitching three quarters of an inch from the seam here. So we're topstitching three quarters of an inch into here. So along this line from the right side. So I think it's really important to press this open really well, possibly understitch it if your fabric does not wanna press really well, that is gonna ensure everything rolls nicely to the inside. I think I'm gonna go with the understitch myself. I just, I love an understitch. It really helps just reinforce everything. All right, and we're back. And this is what we've got. This is the inside of our jacket. Isn't that so pretty? I just absolutely love a hem facing. And then on the side, the hem goes through the side seam out to meet up with your back hem seam as well. And this is all three quarters of an inch from the edge. And then like I said, I swung out here to accommodate for my new buttonholes. And yes, guess who did hers inside out on one side? That's me. If you wanna be cool and not do what I did, be sure that you're putting your little reinforcement piece on the wrong side of the fabric. That would have solved that. But either way, this is what we've got. I think she's looking really, really good. We've only got a couple more days of sewing to go. The sleeve elastic and the hood tomorrow. And that is it, guys. We'll have some finishing details to do. But other than that, we are gonna be done with our jackets. And I'm so excited. So how cool is this? At this point, you guys have a jacket. I mean, granted, it's missing some hems and it doesn't have a hood. But in a pinch, if you needed to run out in this thing, you could absolutely do that. If you have any questions about the steps I illustrated in today's video, please leave them in the comment section below. If you have a photo that you would like to submit with your question, do that over on Instagram. I am at inside the hem. You can DM me and I will be able to better assist you that way. And don't forget, if you are posting progress photos on your social media, you can use the hashtag I-T-H-S-A-L so that I can see your posts and everyone else can as well. But that's it for today. I will see you tomorrow where we will make the hood of our Winbreaker.