 Let's talk about one way to do really straight dog holes in a workbench. I'm finishing up a thing called a pop-up workbench and so I wanted to get dog holes in it and as you can see I've already done that. The whole idea obviously is to get nice straight perpendicular dog holes and get them to be lined up really well. Each of my squares here where I've got cut match fit dovetail grooves is six inches. So it's six inches from the middle of the groove to the middle of the groove. I took some Baltic birch plywood left over from this same build and I wanted to get a jig put together that would allow me to have enough of a guidance hole there to get myself at 90 degrees. I didn't want to try to just mark off where the dog hole would go and then go freehand. I wanted something that was stable. I wanted something that would help me keep my bit at 90 degrees because when you try to do it freehand you may look good from your perspective this direction and then you don't realize over on this side that you're really angled. So I laminated these three pieces together then I cut them to the length that I wanted. To get them lined up with the match fit dovetail grooves, I just placed it on its side and then I came down with a pencil and I made sure this was lined up right on the edges, made sure it was 90 degrees or parallel here, not at an angle and then I just did a little mark right where the edges of each of these grooves is. I then used a combination square to just continue those marks across the jig. Now I had one, two, three, four lines, pairs of lines that represented the dovetail groove. Took a ruler and I went from corner to corner and drew a line and then drew a line from the other corner and of course where that intersects is the middle and so I did that for each of these five squares. Now I know exactly where my middles are. I then just used a hole punch to punch that so that my drill bit would find that hole, that exact middle. So I have this and I think it was only about $17 or so, a wood owl, wood owl, OWL, made in Japan, smooth three-quarter inch auger bit and what it does is it has a tip on it that's got grooves and when you let the drill do the work by itself, that tip bites into the wood and pulls this auger bit down into the wood and what you want to do when you drill these holes is let the drill work by itself, don't press down on it. By the way, how did I get 90 degree holes in my jig in the first place? Well, obviously it's small enough. I can take that over to my drill press. All right, so you use this drill bit. You've got these nice perpendicular holes because you did them on a drill press. You take your, in this case, the base and I drew lines across. Again, each is square. I did that on the jig, but I did that down here on the base as well. And so that gave me the center and I only needed to do that on the two outside edges because if I, this jig is not flexible, if I get the two outside ones lined up, then I should be good to go for the rest of them because these are lined up. So mark that down below, put this over it, look for that crosshatch down below, get it all lined up perfectly, make sure it's flush here and flush this way and as long as you're very careful going all the way down, you should be able to get some really nice, very straight dog holes instead of trying to measure everything and lay it out properly and then get off somewhere. Worked really well. I was very happy with the process. Because you only went partway through and you just let that drill bit poke out at the bottom, then what do you do to finish off the hole? The whole idea of not pressing the drill and letting this finish the hole is because of tear-out on the bottom. You want to avoid tear-out whenever you can. It would have been cumbersome to try to get a sacrificial piece underneath this whole workbench. What you do then is just let this poke through so then you flip it over and because it's poked through, you see all these holes. Well, then you can take a fast bore bit or another three-quarter inch bit. I like this because this pointed edge goes into that little hole and so now I know I'm right in the center of where I need to be even though I'm coming at it from the other side. And then just a little bit of pressure and take out, you know, about an eighth of an inch is all. And now it'll poke through and you don't have any tear-out because now you're going the other direction and you're not going to push it all the way through. So that's how you get them drilled nice and straight. The only other thing I do, just a personal preference, is I don't like to leave these all-sharp edges. I like to do a little round over on them, a little camber. And so I use a 1-16th in my little palm router here. So I use a 1-16th round over bit, test your depth of your cut on your practice jig and then go do all of your holes. Anyway, that's it for today. Small workshop guy. I hope you find that was helpful and be safe in your workshop.