 All right, we've been finishing up working on this right here behind me. That's a 20L2 Sony PVM and it needed a lot of work. It got a cap kit, it got a lot of adjustments, and then it actually needed a different tube because the tube that originally came in it was burnt out. So I finished up all the repairs on there. I'm just finishing up some B footage and some other things on it because I'm going to do a whole deep dive on the 20L2. But before I can get that all finished up, I wanted to make sure I had another video and I had a lot of fun boxes come in the mail this week. So today we're going to go through and check out what came in. All right, the first thing we're going to look at is a Sony PVM, but this is another one that came from Japan. And I just don't understand this whole transaction, how it's going down, how this guy or gal or whomever is actually making money at this. The last one you saw, I got, I imported and I did a video on that and I'll link that right here. But this is the same exact seller that I've got here. And I'm going to show you what I've picked up from them. So right here is the Sony PVM I bought. It was originally listed for $399 US. And then it says, this time it says it's located in North Virgin, New Jersey, which is not the same address that they had listed before. It's actually the same seller, but a different address they have it shipping from. It says 3321 Economy Shipping. And this is a 1450. So it's the Japanese version of the Sony PVM 1350. So I know I'm getting a Japanese model here. So the monitor was shipped and it arrived here in under 24 hours and it's packed just the same as the other one. So I'm pretty confident it's going to make it here safely. We're about to open that, but I'm going to show you the price that I paid for this after taxes and shipping and everything because I did make a best offer here that was accepted. All right, check it out. That's the total price at the end of the day, $375.44. Let's go up to the unloading area and check it out. All right, here's the box that has arrived and it's definitely come from Japan. It looks identical to the one that I received about two weeks ago. And I'll just prove that to you by showing it to you right there. See, there's the box, same size box. It had the OEV143 that came from Japan in there. And of course, I've got my address and stuff covered up, but it definitely didn't come from New Jersey. The label on there does say it came from Osaka, Japan and a lot of other information. So I'm not going to show all that, but you can see these, this fragile tape. Now we're going to get set up on the chest cam. And then we'll open this box, pull the monitor out, see how it looks and see if we can't get it set up to test. All right, folks, let's open the box and see what we've got. Again, we see the big piece of foam. It's primarily in one piece. Oh, look, they did this one a little different. Oh, that's not good. Well, last time they covered the whole thing in foam, this time they did not. It's just got some packs of peanuts like this. I mean, it's wrapped in bubble wrap. Let's get it out. Okay, there's quite a few of these things in the bottom. We also have a piece of foam that was blown up. And then here's our PVM. We're obviously going to need to remove some of this bubble wrap to see if the PVM's okay. Let's check this out. It's actually for 100 volts. So in America, we have 120 volts, but this is not designed for that. This is a common part to push in and break. So we'll need to fix that. Let's take our new PVM inside and see if we have any solutions for getting 100 volts into it. It would be unwise of us to plug in this PVM with 120 plus volts of AC current, because if we do so, it may damage the power supply in here and other components in this monitor. And it might not happen right away, but it definitely would eventually happen, because this is only rated for 100 volts. Now, what I do have is a Sony PVM 1350 from the United States that was salvaged and thrown into the boneyard, lots of parts from this thing. And so what I have from that one is the actual G board power board that is American and will work with 120 volts AC current. So what I need to do is open this up, check out the power supply in there, and we'll pull it out, and we'll compare it to this one. We also use this input board that was salvaged from that unit, because it's much cleaner than the one that came with this CRT. All right, here's inside the 1450. This one is from 1995 December. So it's just about to have a birthday or already has. Here's the power supply side. And just from first glance, I see that we have the same connection points. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to remove this power supply, we're going to pull it out and compare it to the American version. And here we have the power supply that came with this model right here on the input. It says 125 volts to 250 volts. So let's see how this compares to our other G board. Okay, so we do have a little bit of variation here, but this on the right is the salvaged board. And this on the left is the original board. I don't see anything different on these inputs right here. I see all the same information where the voltage comes in. This build out remains the same. And the majority of this G board is the same. The only difference is that some of these parts up here are populated up in this area, and they are not populated over here. They're just empty. So you see we have more components going on in this one than we do over in here. So that must mean that this maybe offers a little bit more power options, but or some updated power fixes for this. But if we look on like these outputs match the same, let's see how our numbers match here. This is a 65195713, 65195712. And they're both 147Bs, although that's been stamped over to say 206A 107B. I don't think that there's really, I don't know, there might be a difference here. It's not a lot. There are definitely more components on this American version. And just to be safe, I'm going to use this American version because it's going to put out the same power that this board would. So let's install this one, and then we'll run a test and see if this monitor works. We've got our Super Nintendo over here, and we're going to test S video before we do anything else, because that's the easiest to connect. And it produces a better image than composite. And this has been modified with the Voltars kit and see if it comes on. I hear it. Nothing's catching on fire. Oh, we're starting to get an image here. No sync. Oh, I've never seen do that, like it's in some kind of mode, like a starting mode. So I think I figured out the issue here. It's not really got anything to do with our power supply, our neck board, or even our input board. I think what's happened is this is said to be in some kind of mode where it just is like almost in a test cycle mode, because if you press over here on these inputs, it just scrolls through your inputs, and then goes and degauses after a second. And then goes in that. So it's locked in some kind of mode, then you see the blue only will come on for a second. And then it might even go through that whole cycle and do it again. So it's in some kind of weird mode. And then the other thing is I can't get the menu buttons to work. So I think that there's probably corrosion on these buttons, because it's really crusty. So I'm going to have to probably remove that button board. There it goes again. There see big gauze. What do you say, Brutus? Yeah, kind of confusing you to what I've got here is an extra H board from another PVM. And it's got all the buttons we need in case we need to salvage anything. If any of the buttons, for example, are corroded or damaged. Or we may just be able to swap this entire board out if we think it's really that bad. And I've also got the entire North American version of the 1350 chassis here, which was donated again as part of a salvage. And then we did see this already, which was the power supply unit. So the only thing left to do is tear this lovely thing down all the way and work on both the button board down here and the main chassis and see if we can't get it to work at least somewhat. All right. So sometimes you hope things are going to be nice and simple when it comes to this stuff, you're just going to get it in and be able to test it. But that's not always the case. And thankfully, just by taking all this apart, I found our real issue. This is actually the bottom of the PVM. I had to remove the tube and everything. And the problem is down here at our button board. But you see right here, we have a cracked board right there. And that's definitely causing issues. While I'm in here, I'm going to go ahead and change out this bottom piece also because it has a crack right down in here, as you can see. So there was definitely some damage. I'm probably going to take some pictures of this and see what we can do with the seller. Maybe I can get a little bit more money back off it. I don't know. It really does explain why those buttons were not working. Look over here. This resistor has been severed right in here. This is all grounding. So more than likely, if this break would have happened possibly right here, instead of involving this resistor, there might not have been any problem with using this board because I don't see any other points on here where damage has happened. I don't know that there's like a crack here, so that possibly could be another hairline crack. But that's a ground point also. This is the H board. I've removed it from down here, and it is heavily damaged. Now this whole section down here, see how it's almost cleanly broken off from the rest of the PCB right there? Because I'd like to get this working again, and I'd like to just use this original board. And what I'm going to try to do is I'm going to glue this board back together. These chunks of it have come apart over here, and we'll secure this PCB back together, and then we're going to repair these traces. See how this board actually split? What I'd like to do is just get a couple dabs of super glue in there, get it nice and hardened, and flattened out as good as possible to the original shape. And then we'll repair the traces because it's just a single sided traced board on the back. And so we should be able to fix these few spots that have been severed here along this path for this resistor and some other things in this area. I also need to check out down here next to this point where it was screwed in opposite of this side because it looks like there might be a break right here causing both this line and this line to be interrupted. Now down here, this is all just extra grounding, so that's not, you know, you could still get some grounding from this portion. So that's not as big of the issue as these two lines may be and also may have a problem right in here eventually. Okay, well here's our board. It glued together quite nicely considering everything. And obviously the traces are completely severed over here. But what I did to actually make my super glue, cure ultra quick, was sprinkle just some good old fashioned pure baking soda on that spot right after you glue it. Just sprinkle a little bit of that dust right on there and then you wipe it away and it gets that bond to activate and pretty much cure really quickly. So now I don't have to wait a long time or 24 hours for this to fully cure. So here's the board. We've got it prepped to start making our trace repairs. And what I've done is I've sanded off some of the mask in these points where we've got a broken trace. Hopefully I can just do a dab of solder on there and bridge these connections and then fix all these traces up. And then I'll come over here and put some new mask on top of all this. And I'm going to go ahead and do that down here too because that's where this board has split on this side. And I'm going to do that. I'm going to reflow solder on all this. Then I'll take my multimeter and check for continuity. And hopefully that'll all work out. I've reflowed solder on a lot of these points and bridged all the connections back. I didn't have to run any actual jumpers. So that was a good thing. Then I went through with my multimeter and checked continuity on everything. Everything checks out great. It works. I also reflowed solder on all the component parts on every bit of this board. And then I've begun applying solder mask and UV curing that. And that process has begun down here. And I'll do the same thing up in here in this area. Now the solder mask has been replaced and I'm letting this black light cure it out down here. And that's how you cure this stuff is with a black light. Oh, here's our board and the H board. It came out pretty nice. So check out the repaired area right here. It's now covered in a solder mask that's cured. It's all been cleaned up. I'm quite impressed with the way all this has come out so far. All right, one of the other things I need to work on is try to get this a little more stable right here so that this piece doesn't just break off at some point. This is a very common issue with these older plastic, especially in these corners for this part to break off. That happened a lot. Now a simple solution to strengthen that would be to add some other plastic that is pretty sturdy. I like to use just old Legos because my kids have thousands of them that they don't use anymore. And I've just cut this one a little bit to fit as a brace piece down in there. So it sits on there and I can kind of fill that with some epoxy or maybe even start with our super glue and baking soda combo here. And then we'll put some other material on there just to reinforce it. Maybe another smaller leg over there right behind it. All right guys, you ready for this magic trick? Now this is the exact same way I repaired the PCB that you saw a little bit ago. I used a little bit of super glue. I got it into the place I needed it. And then I came back with just some baking soda and sprinkled it over the wet super glue. And what that does is it causes a chemical reaction to happen that pretty much instantly cures the super glue. And it feels way stronger than it would if I was just to leave this here with the super glue alone. And for this kind of an application on this bottom piece of plastic it really does work well. This is not really time lapsed except sped up so you can see me repair it quickly but it pretty much instantly becomes hard. I've got another piece cut out here and I'm going to just glue it down to a little custom cut piece of Lego down there on that glue. Nicely. Kind of like the magic stuff. Got the middle here. Maybe I'll drop a piece drop a glue drop right in the middle of these two pieces. Let's do that. There we go. We've got that one Lego that's been kind of cut up and now installed in here and that's literally nothing more than super glue in the baking soda and I sanded it down a little bit. So it's not like the prettiest repair but this is the bottom of the monitor anyway but it is extremely hard. There were some other cracks and I put some super glue down in those cracks and also added the baking soda right in there and then obviously this is really well bonded right in there. And that's an instant bond. I will warn you that that really does solidify almost instantly so you don't want to mess around. You want to be ready for it to get hard but it does a great job. So our board's back in here into our bezel and everything installed. I've gone over things again with the multimeter just to make sure that everything is good and I'm very confident in this repair at least of this H board. Now here this has been put back together. This is a repaired corner over here much stronger than it would have been without any fix on there and that's how it's looking on the inside. The only thing left is to put a tube in here. Now let's check this out. We've got everything connected back the way it should be and ready to set our PVM back up. Sony emblem did fall off but I can re-glue that. Everything's ready on this end. Now I just need to get the boards back in here. All right everything's returned to its glory stage here and we are going to get ready to run a test. Now the main board down here, the neck board and the power supply have not been even serviced yet and those are the main three boards that you always want to service so hopefully we can get this test ready and get it completed. Then I will eventually have to move on to servicing those other boards. We're using our Super Nintendo on S video over here. Everything's put back together and we are ready to turn on the CRT. You can hear it powering right up there. Everything sounds normal. Okay all right everybody check this out. I have been letting this run for a little while and I came back and I just started messing around with it and now it's working perfectly like when I press the buttons it works right. Changing the inputs works perfectly normal. I can even go into the sub menu and make changes now so it looks like yes this repair has worked. Again see I can scroll up and down and then I can change values if I need to so everything is working and that is a total relief. All right so check it out we've got it. It's working and this is just awesome. I'm really happy. Again those buttons now they seem to be performing perfectly. It's also really interesting to find out that there's not much difference in this power supply that comes with these Japanese units sometimes and they're American counterparts. Now I would always recommend opening the shell and making sure there's a rating listed on the power supply. If it says 125 volts then you should be safe to use 125 volts. So I also reached out to the seller of this monitor just to let him know that there was damage. Did a pretty good job shipping this time however there was not as great a foam inside the box as there was the first time. Anyway the seller said he was happy to offer me a $53 refund which I was of course going to accept because I had all the extra time of doing what happened but thankfully we got it working and we don't have to file a claim or anything so that's really cool of him to offer that refund and so we'll see how this one works out but how's that for interesting. I thought this was going to be a simple unboxing video and it turned into this way ridiculous repair on this monitor which still has to have the power supply, neck board and regular main chassis. It has to have all those boards serviced eventually with a cap kit and some other service work so I'll be getting onto that and that's the end of this monitor. Since we ran into so many problems here today on this monitor I'm not going to extend this video and show you really much else. If you really enjoyed this video please do me a favor hit the like button and if you're not subscribed but you do like this type of content and really like CRTs then subscribe to the channel below and I will see you all next time with some more retro content. All right so this is another cool box here and quite large I'm not going to show you too much about the outside of the box. This is a box in a box. So let's open the smaller box. Let's try. Okay let's see what we have in our smaller box and yes awesome so this was a donation from viewer patreon member Josh who actually said he found this in the second hand store for like five dollars and it was cool enough to pick it up and send it in to see if we can mess with it and see what's going on with this one since we did the index tron video. Now we can look at a mega watch man here Sony and I don't believe yet this is just black and white so it's not going to have color on this tube but wow that thing's pretty darn heavy. So thanks Josh that'll be fun a fun little thing to look at in the future. So there we go two very cool CRTs today.