 This is a much abbreviated version of what we normally do, but I'm going to kind of walk through the design, what you might have to go through in order to do a design. So the process is, as we went through earlier this morning, you're going to have your reconnaissance plan. That would involve, you might do your paper studies to see what you got in the field. And then there are on-site ones where you look at the outlets, what lands, depressions. And then I've got this box off to the side is drainage needed. No outlet. There are some cases, particularly up in the Botno area where you could tile a field, but there's no place for the water to go. They don't have the drainage outlets. Also I noted that there's been a couple of fields tiled, a little west of Fargo. And I think they got on the bandwagon because people were telling them drainage was really good, but their fields really didn't need drainage. The tile of water never comes out of the tile. So that's why I put in there is you really got to look at the field to make sure you got an outlet. And when I talk about an outlet, I'm talking about the water going someplace, and if it's got salts in it, then most likely in the Red River Valley, you're going to have them, that they stay dissolved and that water keeps moving. So it moves from the tile into a drainage area, it keeps going, hopefully ends up in the Red River, keeps flowing, ends up, and eventually ends up in the ocean. That's what I would call a good outlet. One where the outlet is not flowing well, cannot keep moving, could pose problems because, as I mentioned earlier, about stagnant water. So this is, I put it in here just to remind people that sometimes water problems in fields are probably due more to surface drainage than they are to subsurface. And sometimes that's hard to determine, but something to keep in the back of your mind. So anyway, you kind of go through the drainage coefficient you want for your area, you determine your calculator spacing, you then start to figure out how you put a tile layout on a field. And this is where you might do the most work. As I said earlier, there's no one right way to tile a field. And once you figure out a layout that your works for you, take into account field conditions, then you can determine your grades and depths, and then from that you can size your main submanus and laterals. And you may have to go back and find out that this doesn't work very good, you have to go back and change the layout a little bit, and then go through this again. So the general, and then once you get a plan, then you can go out and flag the field, show where the tile lines are going to go on the main outlet and so forth, and then figure out your installation, what time you want to do it and so forth. That's kind of a general layout of the process you might go through. So I want to point out that typically we would have some kind of a ditch here where water flows next to our field, and if that ditch were deep enough and you had a gravity outlet, you'd put a main in, but the main has to have some slope. So this is always, the end of the main is always the lowest part of the field, lowest part of the tile system and that's where all the water is going to flow. So it's got to have some slopes where the water flows, can't be level. So then being this is the lowest, this is the lowest part, then that sets the elevation for all the laterals or sub mains that you might hook into it, because everything has to drain to this point. So typically a installation, you set this point, once you determine the grade of your main, you would start here and then you plow in your laterals and you always go from the outlet to the end. I know there are some installers that go up and down the hills and to me, that's kind of a risky business, but basically you, when you plow this in, you would start here and go up with a certain grade and same here. So give you some idea here. Let's say this is 1000 foot long and there's a two foot drop, a two foot rise from here to here. And then this laterals 2000 feet long and there's a two foot rise there. So now you've got from the outlet, you got two foot rise here, two foot rise here. So the last point, the last lateral is four feet, the end of it is four feet above the outlet and the tile manufacturers on plastic want you, that tile should be at least two feet below ground surface, the top of it. That means from ground surface to here is six foot. So lots of times we find out that we don't have a deep enough outlet or ditch for that and we got to put in a lift station. And if you ever drive in the Red River Valley, you'll see hundreds if not thousands of these have been installed in the last 20 years because we have this condition where we have shallow ditches, but our mains end up seven, six, seven, eight feet below ground. So the only water, the only way you get that water up and out is to lift it. So just some pictures, these are many years old that I got from an installer shows pattern tiling. All of the laterals are almost 2,500 feet long, but I think you can see when you do your layout, they got a different color of tile indicates different size tile and they got more than one main going to this lift pump over here. And from the ground, from the air, it may look like that. All these ridges are where their tile had been plowed in nice and uniform. But more and more we're seeing as you go farther west, that people are doing what we call targeted drainage, just identifying the wet spots in the field and just putting tile in to create, to address those problems. And again, the different color on here indicates the different size tile thing to note on this field is you got, you got one outlet up here and then they got access to another up here. And usually on these fields where they have pretty good topography, that's not unusual to have more than one outlet where the water can go. And of course the black I think is four inch and red is five and blue is six and so forth. So that's all this is from one installer uses it to keep things straight. Just to give you a short story, one of my colleagues here in the office that retired a few years ago had 80 acres down in South Dakota. And his renter always said his field was the last one they planted because it was the most difficult because he had a situation like this where he had all these kind of minor wet spots made it difficult to get across. So my colleague invested, and like I said, this was years ago, 8500 bucks and tiled these spots in the field and now his renter tells him that's the first field he goes into because he doesn't have any problem with it. So there's an advantage to targeted drainage. And we're seeing more and more of this as we go farther west in North Dakota, but this is actually from Minnesota. And you can tell from all the different directions that there's quite a bit of change in slope in this field. So in order to get the water to drain, you've got to go with the contours and you've got to go with the slope. So these are some very complicated layouts. We can't possibly go into this, but I wanted to do a drainage project. And we'll just take this field here. I want to point out that it's 2,050 feet this way to 2,450 this way. It's about 115 acres. It's an overly silty clay loam. It has water problems. It's the contours are on one foot. This is 95, 96, 97, 98. But up here at the top, there's a depression area. And you can see this is 95, 94. So this is a lower area and then it drains all the way down to the corner here where it's down at 80. So at the bottom, there's a ditch that runs along the east and west side. And it's the bottom, the ditch bottom elevation is 79. So at this time in the old, this was put together quite a few years ago. They surveyed this to develop this topo map and they surveyed a 20 foot, 200 foot grid across the entire thing. That's what these are on one foot contours. So there's possible layouts of this field, different ways of doing it. In class, I would have the participants just kind of figure out where they might put the mains and where they might put their laterals, keeping in mind that ideally you'd kind of like the laterals to parallel the contour lines. Because when you've got a slope like this and you've got water, subsurface water, follows the slope. And so if you can tile this way, you can intercept more of that water than if you tile up this way. So we'll kind of go over the advantages or disadvantages and the other obstacles. And this is potentially a ditch obstacle, but there might be some drainage ditches out here that are also getting away. So here's one option. It's what I call the east main option. Remember I said there was a drainage ditch along the east side here. So putting the main here, you can just go right down the slope. You can see it goes from 87 all the way up to 96, so not too much problem. And then put your ladders across. The only thing is it's really simple geometry. And if you had a perforated main, it actually drains next to the drainage ditch so that you get less effect from the drainage ditch when it's high in water. So but it's a long main. It's 2,500 feet long. You got a lot more junctions. The laterals are against the contour. You're going up the hill, which may not be an ideal way of doing it. That's one potential option. A second option would be to have a south main where you have a main here. I can see I got my directions mixed up. That was a West main option. Anyway, you have your main along here and you got your laterals going here. In this part of the field, they would be following the contours better. But in this part, it's going against the contours. But the main is shorter. And the main is usually one of the biggest costs of a tile system. Again, simple geometry. The lateral is a lot longer. And but it has it's not ideal. So typically what most of the people in the when they lay this out, you know, or workshops, they go with something like this, where you got a main running from this low spot by the ditch, run it up, up that swale and go across up to here. And then up here, they can tile with the contours. I don't have all the mains in there, but that would be one of their things. One of the problems with one of the things with this. Excuse me, it's a much longer main and it wouldn't be the same size of. Excuse me. It wouldn't be the same size all the way down. The main up in this area because it would handle less acreage would be smaller, but it would get larger as you get down here. But you got a lot more connections coming in. It could be angled, a lot more digging with the backhoe to dig in those connections. It may be harder to stake and install or it would be harder to stake because you're going to have to you're going to find most like nowadays, you'd find these lines with GPS. So there's some disadvantages to it. But I know a lot of people were worried about this low spot up here because the bottom of it is around 94 might be a little less. And the next 94 is there. So this is almost flat from here to here. And then you get to 95 way down here. So different ways of approaching this, which is for sake of for this design. We know it's overly silty clay loam. So I already looked up that the case that was 15 millimeters per hour or one point two feet per day. And so I'm going to bring up. I'm going to go home. This is the South Dakota. This was drain spacing we did earlier. But if you look, we want to look at the spacing for this. So we select the drainage coefficient of this and what did I say? The hydraulic conductivity is one point two feet per day. So if we go with. Let's look at well, let's look at three inch drain tile. The depth of the restrictive layer I want to assume is 10 feet. Again, minimum water table of foot, you know, and so then I can calculate and it says it's 54. So what would happen if we looked at a. Quarter inch drainage coefficient in short of spacing is 69. So what if we looked at a three foot depth? People 58 of we went to a four foot depth. It goes to 79. So you can do a lot. You can look at a lot of variability of tile diameter. Depth that you might end up with in your design and you can get. Put it and you can get these different drain spacings. And so what I did was I use that and I created this chart. So if I look at the drainage coefficient. From a quarter inch to a half inch and went three, three and a half, four foot. You can see a rain. I got a range of of a depth that it's our spacing that is calculating. So a quarter inch or one, four foot deep would be out at 80. Three eighths. You got anywhere in here. So so based on that, I decided to use a 50 foot spacing because it fit into the grid pretty nicely. I'm going to shoot for a three to 3.5 foot depth on the laterals. So I've talked to this one question, though. OK, how do you determine the minimum water table that depth value for that calculator? That's the depth between the tile. Between the tile that when. With these design parameters of that drainage coefficient, that that if you ever get to the point where it would flow at that level, that it would keep the water table between the tile of foot below the surface. Now, you could put a zero there if you want to let the water table come up. It would give you a wider spacing. But that would be that's what that minimum depth is, is the depth of the water table between the tile when you have that large rainfall or wedding event that that makes the system run at full capacity. That good? Got it. OK. So we're going to shoot for three to three and a half foot depth on laterals. First and last lateral would be 25 foot from the edge field edge. So if you add them up, you end up with about 41 lateral connections. So sometimes if you're working with an installer, you might see their printout. They use this old and you might see it on some older printouts of tile, but they use the old surveyors. Notation of zero plus zero. So zero plus 50 means 50 feet. One plus zero means a hundred feet. Twenty plus zero means two thousand feet. So your first lateral over here would be number one. And the last one would be number 41. And they would number them by distance. But that would you could lay it out this way. So the goals is to try to develop a uniform depth for the tile, minimize the grade as much as possible and to minimize deep cuts and shallow depths. There is a question. Does the minimum depth of the that you were talking about on the top of the tile or the bottom? So when you talk about the depth, you know, you have the pipe is a couple of inches. So are we talking about the bottom of the the pipe or are we talking the top of the pipe? That's a good question. What we're trying to look at is when you install this, we want to figure to the the depths of the. Remember, if you get in a situation where, like I said, the tile contractors that manufacturers would say that they want at least two foot of overburden over the top of the tile. So that means if you were to plow it in, that you'd have to be at least 2.4 inches, right? Two inches, two feet, four inches at the top of the tile. So we're usually talking about the bottom of the cut. Is the depth that we're trying to shoot for. And unfortunately, the handout has all the, I don't know, it came up yesterday. I don't know why it's not coming up today. We can send out a cut sheet as an attachment. Yeah, well, so on my spreadsheet, I went through the showed the calculations of how to get the main from that outlet. Remember, the bottom of ditch was 79 feet. So you always want to stay above the bottom of the ditch because there's silt and other things that accumulate there. So if you started at about 82 couple of feet above that and you went up, you would end up with a slope of the main would be almost uniform with the with the slope of the ground turns out, it's like point one, two percent grade point zero, one, two grade. So you end up with a uniform depth of that at around a little over four feet. That that would be to the top of the main. And then on our on my handout. I showed the last look at that where once you set the elevation of the main, then that's the end elevation of the lateral. So they you start from that elevation, then you work up the field based on ground topography. And I had that plotted. And I'm sorry, I can't bring that up. It'd be visually be a lot easier to see. But and then I checked the lateral that would go that's a couple of laterals that would go underneath that low spot to see if they had enough clearance in order to drain properly. And in a way that that pothole, that low spot could pose some problems and you might have to change the. Slope of the of the lateral in order to make it fit properly. So that's why I looked at. So once you you do to you check your depths, do your main first and then put your laterals in to make sure that they fit and then check against ground elevation. And then the next thing you would we have to do is find out. You know, when the main could be telescope, because you can go from one end of the last part of it's only draining a smaller acreage. So you got smaller pipe and the largest pipe would be at the outlet to handle the flow. And so I size the outlet for a total field area. And so you got one hundred and fifteen acres. So. You could use that slide chart or the calculator from that. That spreadsheet that I have would you could check this. And one of the questions here is instead of one long, could you use two or three eight inch mains to make it easier to install if you wanted to pay the extra cost eight inches, much less expensive than 15 inch? So you might might have worked out a deal where part of the field was eight inch next part was eight inch. The last part was eight inch. I mean, there's different ways of working around how to do the layout. So what I'm talking about is the main along here, you know, you could. You might use one eight inch that handles these laterals. And then you might use one eight inch that uses these laterals and then another eight inch that might be one way of doing it. Or you might have to use a 10 inch and then two eights. You can put that together. There's different ways of doing this. It doesn't have to be one long. It could be a telescoping. You could probably have a 15 inch for 150 feet and then 10 inch. And then eight inch rest of the way. There's different ways of handling that. So you can go to the if you notice here, you can look down here. It says area drain pipe size. So so that's you can you can do this on this on on that slide rule. Or else you can let's put three, seven, five. One of those laterals was 2,400 feet long. So when I calculated out the area, 50 feet wide by 2000, that and you can calculate that is 2.8 acres. So on on my spreadsheet, I had. The pipe grade in percent was point one, two. So when I calculate that, it says here that. Required pipe sizes, 3.6 inches. So the question would come up in this design because you use three inch tile. And according to this, probably not because it wouldn't have the carrying capacity and it would fill at the lower end of the field. If you got that that heavy flow coming through, it would probably the last hundred couple hundred feet would. This is the case where I think that earlier question about. Using three inch on here, you would end up the lower part of the field would stay wet for longer. So. You'd have to go up to four. Let's say that let's look at ten laterals. So let's say. What size pipe would you need to drain 28 acres to pick up ten laterals? OK, same slope, same drainage coefficient. Well, now you see that the required pipe size is nine inches. So at just drainage coefficient. So what happens, which means you would have to. As far as I know, pipe sizes come in three, four, five, eight, 10, 12, 15, 18. So what happens if we change this to a quarter inch drainage coefficient? Now it says you can get by with seven point six. So you can and then some drainage coefficient in between. So you could use an eight inch to pick up ten laterals. And then if you picked up the whole hundred and fifteen acres a quarter inch, says you need thirteen point four. So. And I'm using single wall plastic. So if I change that to dual wall. Now it's eleven points, so you can get by with twelve inches. So you've got this calculator available to you to kind of play around with some of those. But these pipe grades, you have to get off the your layout. So we just determined that you probably couldn't use a three inch on here that you'd have with that long lateral. If you want to go through the trouble, you could you could probably. Telescope the laterals go to first thousand feet or so with four inch and in the last with three inch. But that's more work out in the field and sometimes just easier to pull in one size. So so after that, once you kind of get a layout and then you can count up how many feet of pipe you need, all sizes, how many fittings you might need. Yeah, tile, the end of every tile should have an end cap. Otherwise, we know from experience that soil will flow into the end and fill up the end of the tile. How many splices and teas you need, how many pipe connections, wherever you do a pipe connections. Typically, you have to be out there with a backhoe and dig down into them and then estimate the labor and machine cost. So that's a real quick run through. And kind of went went through this layout and then found out that we have different layouts and we can we may have to make changes and and this is kind of an iterative process until we finally get something we're happy with and then we can go out and do the fuel flag. I generally tell people that the design process takes a long time. The installation process doesn't take very long at all, at least for a tile contractor or even for people to put it in once they got the plan set. And at the end, you want something that drains properly and it's going to last a long time.