 Hello, good morning. Good evening. Good day. Good whatever time it is wherever you are whenever you're choosing to watch this Hello, my name is Brian here, and I've made an executive decision for us for as long as possible I'm gonna keep coloring the same mannequin. So this was our beautiful foil model from last week She loves her highlights, but now she wants to try something a little bit more She wants to add a little more to this another layer. She this pretty much looks like you know This is how people come in they're driving. They're like sorry. I didn't wash my hair for a week I was getting my hair done. That's that's her today. She does still have her center part that is not because of pressure from Gen Z It's just because that's where her hair falls. So don't get that twisted. I am going to do the same thing on one side I'm gonna show you my stripes on one side. I'm gonna show you my V's but first and foremost I'm gonna show you my consistency. I didn't mix it up yet because consistency is something that is super super important I am using skylights from Paul Mitchell. So this is a clay base lightener. It's made for Balia Now what that means the whole clay base what you're expecting from that if you're using a clay base You need to understand that in your application. You need to go a little bit heavier with I'll show you clay base means like it's gonna harden on the outside somewhat Creating a little bit of an environment for the highlight to lift doing Balia's you had to be very very careful and cautious Because wherever you painted it lightener does like to puff up a little bit And you didn't want it touching hair that you weren't intending for it to touch because back You know when I got this hole started there was nothing to put in between your sections Just like I'm not gonna use today because I want you to see everything personally when I'm using clay lightener for my Balia's Which is typically all I use anymore now that I don't have to use a regular lightener. I like a nice thick consistency I like to think of it like I don't want to say spackle because that's too thick I actually just use spackle recently and that's way too thick I like like toothpaste maybe like that nice toothpaste that you've gotten wet that you're about to brush your teeth with That few seconds that toothpaste before it becomes foam. That's what I like to see I'll show you in my bowl here notice. I'm using a little rubber spatula It was just a trick that I got from Lacy Whirly years ago that I absolutely loved it does the lightener more So then aerate like a whisk does in my mind It just comes out such a great consistency plus it helps conserve So like you're not wasting a ton because I am able to scrape everything off the side of the bowl and get my nice little Toothpaste consistency. So you see nothing's coming out good. We're in there I like this consistency because it's gonna stick to the hair as I apply it But be thick enough that it's gonna give me a really nice a placement today But I like to do my Balia's off of whatever part they come in with because generally that means that's how they're gonna wear Their hair because they at least did that day. You all know by now. I'm a huge moneypiece fan I like to go off their part and really just hit that hard So with a lot of clay lighteners when you mix it up momentarily then it's gonna get a little bit stiffer So keep that in mind because I do I want it stiff But I do need it still workable if it's too thick then that's not gonna be it's not doing us any favors So I've got my paddle give myself some to work on working with a tool like this is great Because it does help for moving quickly just keeps lightener right there So I can just keep working grab some and go grab some and go rather than chasing a bowl around You know every time I need to apply more for starters We're just gonna start on some nice bands just to show you my application one thing that I see Happen a lot is that people think that Balia's Application is Smashing color into your section the way that I like to word it just to get a better visual of what you're planning on I want Balia's I want the hair to take the lightener off my brush. I'm not pressing I'm letting I'm just getting close enough for the color to come off Think of it like the bristles shouldn't even touch the hair. I'm just gonna grab I'm here. I might grab myself a little section when you're deciding how big of a little section to grab That's gonna be based off of one how you want it to look to also the density like if they have a lower density of hair And you grab a small little chunk like this, but you're able to see through it your Balia's might get a little spotty You decide exactly where this is gonna go for the control freaks out there like me This is a really great method of doing highlight I'm applying it watching to make sure that anytime you get these little jump skips that happen a lot on highlights with Manicins just take that off no big and then just come down with the hair follow wherever you're holding with your fingers And then I use the other side of my little paddle keep in mind Are we just this is where you get make your decisions on how you want this to turn out if you're looking for lighter Ends just all over throughout then as you come down to the bottom What I'll do is I'll spread out the section a little bit with my brush and make sure that I've got lightener applied on top Underneath throughout so now this highlight is gonna go from being applied on top as it comes down now It's saturating the full ends so think about what that's going to look like when it's done and then you go That's gonna look good. I like that and then I'll use my little brush when you are applying Balia's Do not forget that eventually you're gonna be up towards the top of the head And you're gonna have highlights down low and this is out in the open It's not in a foil you need to be careful because you put all this thought into how this is gonna come out you apply this so that It's gonna look gorgeous the last thing you want to do is smash hair on top of that highlight because if it touches it It's gonna start bleaching and it's gonna turn weird because it's unintentional. That's where elevation comes in I like to get everything Elevated as straight off the head 90 as you can from where it lives not 90 like always 90 90 from where it's coming Out of the head straight off so what that's gonna do as I apply my lightener onto this section when I let it go It's gonna hold together and it's gonna cause that section to buckle a little bit so that it won't press down on the section Beneath we'll do another one just to show you what I'm talking about Look, yes, it happens. It's going to happen every single time You just got to keep an eye out be aware of what you're doing Can't really check out while you're doing this because you're designing something that's working on this person's haircut So again got that nice straight-out elevation that lets it gently lay down and that way if there's a highlight underneath It's not smashing against it When you're creating this type of look because now we are going to be saturating the ends I'm gonna be applying a highlight on one edge I'm gonna be applying a highlight on the other edge and then they're gonna come together and lighten through the ends of The hair you need to take into consideration is where you're gonna hold the hair where you're gonna pinch because wherever you've got Your pinch from there through the ends is gonna be your lightness if you're looking to make their hair super light Then you're gonna pinch closer to the root you want a little bit more of their root color to show Then you're gonna want to slide down the section a little bit because then this is where the two Blonde highlights will converge and then create light ends also keep in mind if that's what you're going for Maybe considering a different application because coming all the way down here leaves you a very bouncy section And like the bouncier this is the more chance there is for things to get wild I'm gonna come about halfway get my little dome going I like it and then just let the hair take it work up towards The root a little bit clean up after myself along each edge of the section same principles as before now We're just doubling it up. So where these two blonde lines come together Make sure that you've got buku lightener on top because we're about to spread open this section and get all that hair in between So I'll use my brush to transfer it over to my little paddle and then I just kind of just lightly spread it If you bust it apart, then you're gonna be screwing all this up But I just lightly spread it so that I know that I'm getting in there and then just give it that nice same Saturation that you were giving the rest of the highlight as I'm slowly dragging it through I can feel it picking up highlight from underneath as well. Don't skimp do it right and I'll just check Yeah, I'm good. We're pretty saturated Switch me to I almost got it. I got this and then I check hold on I'll do it this way so you can see that underneath using the corner of the paddle kept it from being a harsh line So now underneath it's also going to diffuse and lighten as it gets through to the end I've never seen a voliage video do that. So You are welcome That's a good question because it happens a lot on mannequins and it actually happens a lot on people So I'll show you I have a section right here I'll kind of show you like what question is addressing is the fact that sometimes when you're working when you go to move up It's gonna grab some hair It's gonna grab some hair and then that just when that happens things start getting real messy real fast So my advice if you see that they've got Hair whether it's the haircut or what that's starting to grab don't go up because that just sucks If they've got the kind of hair that's grabby grabby then Push it back into the section by just following through on your sweep fly We've grabbed some hair now Just smooth it back out into the section smooth it back out because oh I forgot to say that voliage is french for sweeping So just remember that just sweeping and then when you pick it up It goes right back down to where it's supposed to be and then you can go right back to work great question Because they ate when that happens you want to see the lasagna put the noodles away. It's time for lasagna So now you can see a little bit of what I was saying Oops. Nope. This side was my V's so over here where I did the V's You see the hair travels from the dark into just pretty light through the ends And then over here where I just did the bands It's much more of a traditional highlighted look because it's got her base color worked in even all the way through the ends So thank you guys so very much. I will see you next week