 What's up, everybody? Welcome back to another 3D Hangout. My name is Noel Ruiz. I'm a designer here at Adafruit. Joining me every week is my brother Pedro. Good morning, everybody. I'm Pedro. I'm Creative Tech here at Adafruit. And every week, we're here to share 3D-printed projects featuring electronics from Adafruit. That's right. This is a show we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects for you. Hey, folks. Welcome, everybody, to the show. This is episode 350. We got a new project this week. Got some prototyping, a little bit of a shop talk. Community makes, some CAD stuff, some props. And of course, some LEDs. All this and more on today's show. Let me take a moment to welcome everybody to the live chat room. We're hanging out in the Discord server. Hello, everybody, hanging out there. Want to say good morning, good afternoon, good evening, wherever you might be. Good morning to everybody hanging out in the chats. We're on the Discord at discord.gg slash Adafruit. Shout out to Andy Callaway, Jim Hendrickson. We're also hanging out in the Twitch chat, as well as on Twitter and on Facebook, YouTube and LinkedIn. Good morning to everybody hanging out. Hello, hope everybody's doing all right this morning. We are gonna run through the housekeeping stuff, so let's go ahead and take a look at the freebies that are going on. If you order stuff, the more stuff you order, the more things you get for free. So run through these real quick. For orders that are $99 more, you're gonna get a half size from a Proto for orders that are $149. We still have the deal for the StemAQT boards. So if you spend $149 or more, you'll get the half size from a Proto and the StemAQT board. If you have an account, we'll make sure you don't get the same one twice, right? Orders that are $200 or more, you'll get the StemAQT, you'll get the Proto half size from a board and free ground shipping for U.S. Continental. And for orders that are $399 to the top tier, you'll get a free circuit playground, Blue Fruit, that's what the NR5040. You get the free Continental shipping for ground. You get the StemAQT board and the half size from a Proto. All of these lovely goodies is still while supplies last. I got one more kind of note. You wanna make sure you take a look at this blog post because the holidays are upon us. Here it is, eight of a holiday shopping. 2021, these got some nice dates for you folks. So for international orders and it's broken down by the type of UPS. So three day, two day and next day, we're looking at probably next week is probably the deadline to get things before the holiday. So check that out. It's a front featured blog post on itblog.eatofruit.com. Okay, let's take a look at the jobs board at jobs.eatofruit.com. If you are an employer or a maker looking to collab or work on stuff, you can put up a job posting or your resume on jobs.eatofruit.com. And we've got some going on here from October. So no new ones, but there's still some really good ones out there. So check those out. And that is the help wanted jobs board. All right, let's see newsletters every week. Once a week, there's a product focus newsletter. If you wanna subscribe to that, go to aatofruit.com slash newsletter for the daily dose of emails. You can go to aatofruitdaily.com and check out the different categories. Our favorite run is Python on hardware, but also 3D printing, right? But Python on hardware, shout out to everybody for subscribing to that one. Yeah, it's been a lot of fun and huge shout out to Ann and the Circle Python Core Dev for putting that one together. We have a programming note. Tonight we are hosting show and tell. It's tonight at 7 30 PM Eastern time. And then Ask an Engineer will be broadcasting tomorrow, not tonight, but tomorrow. There is some special things going on that Lamar and Phil have to attend to tonight. So tomorrow they're gonna do the show at the same 8 PM time slot, but again on Thursday. I'm the first one to let everybody know, I think that BT is working on a blog post. Yes, yes, so yeah, we'll see you folks hopefully tonight on show and tell. But again, Ask an Engineer will be tomorrow. Yeah, super proud of some awesome master monies that are attending. Yeah, tonight. It's New York City stuff. Very cool. Business. Super proud. Yes, we survived. Okay, are we ready to go to the show? Let's see. Yeah, let's go ahead and jump into this week's project. Okay. We'll do shout out. Everybody wanna shout out? Let's get your shout outs in, but I don't see any. So let's jump into, if you go head on over to learn.adford.com, you'll see that the latest guide, one of the latest guides is the one we got up here. This is a big key switches, Macro Pad. So we got our hands on the KB, sorry, the KB2040 and it's a fun little board dedicated for making keyboards, right? So Lamar had a suggestion, rather the CS team, the shipping team had a suggestion to Lamar. I was like, it'd be really nice to have these big chunky buttons. And like, so when they're doing their, I guess when they're shipping things out, instead of looking for a key, it's nice to have like a really big arcade style one so they can just stomp on it. And we think for accessibility's and for just the joy of just like getting it through a bunch of orders or something, this could be really useful for them. So they requested it, Lamar asked us to do it and here it is, a couple of days later. Yeah, so he recently got all of these novel keys in stock and wanted to make the project with the KB2040. I say KB all the time, bro. KB2040. Yeah, so the original idea from the shipping team was to have just, I'm guessing one to act as a space bar that advances to the next order is what I'm guessing. So the idea from it, from that stemmed, another idea of having it be sort of, sort of not Lego connector. Oh, pooch. But some, like a T-slot so you can extend this, make like a little keyboard train or have like a ginormous macro pad of your favorite hot keys. So super simple little design here. It's all connected with these T-slots that all connect together, interlock with each other. All three printed of course. And we have our lid here that has the KB2040 on there. This little way of attaching the board. We have these nice little drafted little tabs. These drafted little tabs that hold everything in place because there are no mounting holes on this tiny little board. Yeah, it's got the pro micro shape. So it's got a cast-related pad. So you're gonna have some nice soldering. So a bunch of geometry that goes into play here. We have this little sunken down portion on there. So you can push down on about halfway of the board. So you still have plenty of room when you're soldering a bunch of different wires on there. Even the cast-related little edges here. You can attach more grounds. I think there's two grounds, three grounds on here. Of course, if you're adding the LEDs and keys, you're going to use all of those up. So the way that this works is that the little, little spacing between here. You have access to your Stem-A-Q-T port and your USB port on the other side. And still have room to pop it out with the little cutout that I did not plan this, but you can see what board you're using on there. And that's used to pop this out for resoldering or adding more keys. So a nice little way to make a way to hold a PCB that doesn't have any mounting holes. This is our go-to way of building these little tabs. You can kind of see the drafted on there for adding the added stability of the support. Same thing with the T slots here. You can see the draft on there so that you don't need any supports. You will have a little bit of droop ridge, but you can cut that off. And the tolerance just should fit all the way up to like an ultimaker down to the Prusas and the Crealtes. So you should have a nice little tight fit on that. And the lid, same thing. These nice little chamfers on the corners here to make it a little bit simpler to attach onto the bottom. And then you have the holes so you can fit the quick connects. Which will fit through there. So you can have that attached to the rest of all of your keys. So the quick connects, nice little way to make these non-destructive. We do have these in the shop and these nice little way to connect those. We have built some of these before and one of the things I didn't like was having to solder to these. So we have these quick connects that'll aid in being able to have this completely modular for expanding or cannibalizing this for a different project. On the inside, you do have space for a 10 millimeter LED on here. So this guy just rests right on top of there. You can add like a drop of hot glue or something, but there is enough space to just have them sit nice and flush on there. Hopefully I'm not pushing anything over there. Yeah, and your search bar. Yeah. My book search bar. So all in circuit Python, you can program this to turn on when you press the key or how the way we have it here is that it turns off when you push on the key. It's either way. Yeah, you can just flip the true or false. Yeah, super easy to reprogram that. And you can see here all how they're all daisy chained. The, let's see this guy. So this press fits into place. You can see how all of the wires fit inside there. You can just coil them up. There's enough space to have the quick necks on there. It just pushes on there like that to make sure that the little, what are these called? These little tabs that push out to make sure that these didn't bow or deform the walls. They are about two millimeters thick. So after sending them is a little bit heavy, but that's just because of having thick walls on here so that the, these little thing he's called that push up against it. So you're not actually deforming the, your case. What else can we talk about here? Let me pop out the main one. You can see the KB2040 inside there with all of- It's a space for other components. If you want speakers or some sensors or something or stuff in there. And because it's modular, the bottom cover, you can just print out the case and then the bottom cover can be printed out some other bits. Yeah, so the shipping team did say space bar and was going to make like a bigger, longer one, but this ended up working. So you could definitely three print something that can fit on there. Yeah, make a different shape if you'd like. And one of the other things I didn't get around to doing is actually adding more of these T slots like on the other sides of these. So if you wanted to, you know, expand it and make like a four by four. Exactly. So we can jump into the CAD real quick. Let's try out our- We got a new CAD cam here. We can actually jump into this. Oh, the mullet's working. Let's see if my- Your mouse? My mouse connects. Here we go. Yeah, so super simple little design. It's just a box, but of course all the geometry lies in all the little holders. So like we were saying before, here's all the drafted angles that come out into play. You can see how those are drafted. Oh, that's that part. So easy. And it's a four degree drafts, just enough so that it can grab onto the board without actually like deforming the, what's the board made out of the FR? FR4, yeah. FR4, so you don't like, like- Chip it. Chip it, yeah. So it's just enough room for that. And it's on each side. You have your little edges for that. And you got little chance furs and another draft on here so that you have a nice amount of tolerance when you press fit that inside of the case. The case just has the USB port hole. So you can, like the thickest USB cable is what we usually test this on and it should work perfectly with that. And that's pretty much it. Just a little design, just little details in there to hold onto the PCB. Like we were saying before, the little dip in there so that your board can have a nice little, that's cool. Like a groove to go inside of. With enough spacing for all the wires and your cast-related pads, like wires to be attached onto the side so you still have room for that. And that does a really nice job of holding it. We tested it out by, you know, unplugging and plugging in the USB and then like pulling it up upwards to make sure that it doesn't, you know, pop the board out of the, what's it called? Cavity. And that's pretty much it. The only thing that I don't like is how thick this bottom is and that's there just because of the cavity that you had on there. I think it's good to have a thick bottom. That way it's got some more weight to the bottom and just overall it's more sturdy. Yeah, I don't think there's any like to see the, the infill is pretty low on here. It's like 6% infill. It's a good color choice. You get the translucent stuff matching out. Yeah, I'm just matching what the, Yeah, they like match straight on. Yeah. Yeah, so we're using the, so each one has a different, the keys are all different in terms of the, what is it called? The clicking, the bump and the clack. Right, that's what the title's there. So when it clicks, one clacks and another one bumps. So you can kind of hear the click on this one. The bump. It's more of a feeling. And then the clack. They're both feelings. And then the other thing too is having enough spacing between each one, so they don't bump into each other. That's right, look at that. Then the, oh, I didn't have any white LEDs or blue, 10 millimeter LEDs. That's right, we're out of LEDs and we had a time crunch, so we had to use what we had. Yeah, they did come in. I should have swapped them out. And then for the 10 millimeter LED, we have a little resistor that soldered right on there. There's something festive about like, orange yellow LED has this notation of like a candle or something, that's how I feel about it. Yeah, so. It matches. So one of the other use cases that we show in the video is having it be like a drumming. Yeah, that's right. So you can do some MIDI stuff, but we just use the keyboard, just regular keystrokes, and then in like a MIDI app like GarageBand, you can turn on the keyboard MIDI mode and then just use regular keys to make some sounds. So, very fun demo. All right, so let's go ahead and jump into the learn guide. All right, let's take a look. So the overview page is gonna walk you through all the parts. We have three of these different kale switches. Everybody bottom up, thank you for buying them. Looks like the blue ones were the ones that went the fastest. Right, they're all gone now. And I can see in the chat here, Susan got the plicky button. Oh, thank you, Susan. I really like, yeah, you can, it's so cool being able to have these blown up so big because you can see the actual mechanism that's doing the clicking. It's just a little spring. There's a spring inside there as well. You can kind of see the spring there. Just in the case. It like lifts up and around it. You see it now. Trying to focus here. So sorry if this is like right into the microphone, but it's super fascinating to see all of the components for this blown up. Yeah, it's great. So cool. 64 times bigger than a regular K and X compatible. I'm waiting for the first person who's gonna make like a ginormous full-size keyboard. I heard John Park said that somebody at Maker Faire somewhere did. Oh, wow. Also gonna give a shout out to Colin Cunningham because he did one of these. He did one for the Circuit Playground. It was very specific to it though. He used Neopixels on the Circuit Playground. And I think he constructed the frame out of wood. So a really, really cool way to do it also. And he did that before we started stocking these, so. Yeah, yeah, that was a request from Lamar. He probably knew that we were gonna go stock them. Yeah, it was great when we were just getting into keyboards and stuff, just like a year or two ago. But otherwise, shout out to Colin. Real quick right on the subject, Josh Van on the YouTube is asking, did we print these in PETG? I know this is just regular PLA. You put printed in PETG, sure. But these are just PLA. Yeah, they look good, they would be strong. It's the translucent, the name, the brand. It's a no-name brand for all of these, I believe. Something for Madison. Yeah, I'm always reluctant to give out what brand we're using, because we've noticed it. They disappear the night. They disappear, yeah. So whichever translucent filament brand that you're comfortable with getting, pick those up. But yeah, they're all PLA. Yeah, a lot of PETG comes in these nice translucent colors too. Approximate price per key. You were just on the learn, or on the product page for that. When they're out of stock, you don't get a price. Let's see. I don't know, $20 each or something? $10 each? Let's see, yeah, they are 20 bucks each. Yeah, $19.95. They're big, big injection molds. Short byte, yeah. These are programmed for MIDI right now to do just in GarageBand. Yeah, you just turn snares. They're just making letters, A, B, C. Yeah, yeah. But then in GarageBand, you just turn on the keyboard mode, and then you can use regular keystrokes. Cool, so some other things. We have the 10 millimeter LEDs in stock. You can get a packet of five. I should've did that. Pack of 25, and all this sort of colors. I should've did that. Yeah, so that's a really good deal for only $8. These are really great. They're just so bright, and very gummy. Look at the green one. It's beautiful. Yeah, we had a really, really stellar LED. I forgot what we were using the yellow ones for, but that's all that we had here. Yeah, you're right. I wasn't using them specifically for something. So I went ahead and grabbed all the colors because it would've been very nice to have the blues. I used one yellow LED for the Star Trek gun. The Star Trek, yeah, both of them use it. So yeah, good LEDs. Okay, what else have we got? The KB2040, the past stock, right? No, no, there is not still. Yeah, these are great. So it's running the RP2040. You get 20 GPIO pins. It's only $9. You have the Stem Connector, so you can matrix these together. It's got a whopping eight megabytes of spy flash. It's awesome. It's really good, and some of the other boards don't have as much. So you can fit all the libraries. You can die matrix your key and make a whole full-of-bone keyboard, I think, or at least a 60% one. Any hootle, those are the parts. One of the other things we want to highlight is the Quick Connect, since it was in the chat, that they like the way that we're using the Quick Connects for these. I don't have to find them, I don't see them here. Oh, I did not put them in here. I just put it in the chat. It's a PID3835, and again, it's made it. Yeah, we have an assortment of these. You want to be cautious of the sizing, so this is 0.187 inch. But you can see here in this photo that it fits these Zippy switches, these micro switches. So yeah, and here's a good comparison of them. Right, or no? All right, all right, we're looking to overhead. Yeah, and these have a nice amount of tolerance on them, so they will stay in there. So you don't have to stretch them out, they just fit on them perfectly? Yeah, the ones that I use in the video are the smaller ones, and if you take like the little skinny pliers, you should be able to bend those out, and that worked pretty good, but it'd be nice not to have to do that. Just get these, and then the only other thing on the product page it is linked to for DigiKey where to get the female connectors for these. I had to build my own, we have like a little kit of the female parts. It shows it, yeah, right there, to get the matching. Yeah, JSTXH. That's the only thing we don't have. Right, you can also get a pack of these on Amazon, like I got myself a pack, different distorted colors, and you can create your own, crimp your own, or solder your own, and just use the connectors. But yeah, you can get them on Amazon too. But these are the ones we're using, and they fit well. All right. I've been posting all of the PIDs, so trying to get through all those. Okay, we'll see the thing, yep, the USB-C cable. Sure, if you've got one, if you need one, use one. Yeah, we're approaching where almost every of the things that we're using is already turning into USB-C. I'm gonna see some of that. Oh, my pie projects are all USB-C. It's that time of the, I guess for spring time, we're gonna have to do some cleanup of getting rid of the micros and the A's. Correct. Yeah, this is the way that it's all wired up. That's fun. It's what we have for fritzing in our GitHub, which you can see the link there. I'll post it in the chats as well. We have all of our boards that release new products, Catney and Dylan. We still get job of making the fritzing objects for these. You can pick up if you wanna make your own diagram. Here is how all of these are set up. It's pretty much just a pin two, all the way to pin seven. One for the button, then one for the LED, and then up until you get the year three, or you can add up to, is it 10 for these? Each matching pair. Cool. Yep. Let me just tell you what you wired. In the code, you can completely switch out what does what. Yeah, you probably don't wanna do that. All right, cool. Let's go Python. Yeah, so it comes with a bootloader. You're one installs to Python on there. Latest version is 7.0, and this just walks you through getting it in the bootloader mode. You just hold down the boot button, press reset while holding down the boot button. Your RP, R-Py, R-Py two drive appears, and you can just drag and drop the U of two folder to install to your Python. It's pretty straightforward, pretty easy, but this page will walk you through it and give you all the documentation on how to do it. All right, on to the code. So this is where you'll want to change the pins, depending on what you soldered to. If you have more or less buttons, this is where you'll wanna update your list. So you got your button pins and your LED pins, so they're nicely listed there for you. And then here are the key codes. So if you want to do multiple key codes, you can do that as well, but for now, we just have them as single buttons. So key code, and you can look at the documentation for a full list of all the available key codes. You can also do special media controls, such as play, pause, previous, and volume. So you can do all that stuff. It's all there in the USB HVD documentation, which one of the use cases for this that we completely forgot to mention, accessibility. So if you have any disabilities, you have dexterity. Yeah, you can help me. Nice big hit state for the... For sure, yeah. And let's see. Yeah, you can, what else can we change here? I guess the LED right here, if you wanna turn it on or turn it off. In this variation of the code, it will turn the LED on when you press it, and when you release it turns the LED off. We flip that. So all you would do is just turn true to false and false to true. And that's pretty much. And then this loop just kinda checks when the button is being pressed and runs through the button function, which will do the key stroke and the LED. And there you go, pretty pretty good. This is what it looks like when you upload the libraries and the code to your circuit pi of drive. So those are all the library files that you'll need. But if you use the download project bundle, you won't have to hunt down the libraries or the code. It'll just come in the zip file for you. And you can just drag that over to your... We'll add the files. You can drag those files over to your speed drive and you're good to go. Okay. All right, let's take a look at the three printing page. Here are the parts. Very simple, new craziness. The orientation should be set to go on these and those ports needed. You can use your favorite PLA settings for this. You can just use the 220 just for the speed that we're printing at. 10% info, gyroid, 0.2 millimeter layer height, and 64, the bed. Nothing special there. You can get the STLs for that on Thingiverse or edit the Fusion 360 files or download the step files and port it into... What is it? The Venture, TinkerCAD, FreeCAD, yeah, OpenScad. All should be supported there. You have all the formats you can download from there. Go. It's super simple, yeah. Just pick your colors and print away. Time to the assembly. So some soldering required. Yep, once you've figured out how many buttons and the way that your LEDs, you wanna hook those up. Like we were saying before, there is plenty of room to solder to the cast-lighted parts of that if you want to share the three ground connections. There's the most of the pins that you're gonna need to share. And then once all those are nicely soldered up, you can bundle up your wires. Like doing a nice little coil there just to keep the mess of wires you're about to have everywhere. Be a little bit neat and tucked onto the sides of the case. You'll run your wires to each side or if you're just gonna have just two of them just run it to whatever side you're gonna have the assembly set up for. And then the lid press fits onto the bottom. Super simple. Just make sure you orient it with the USB port openings correctly. And then the switch just mounts right on top. The orientation for this, see the LED part is gonna be the back. So if we go over to the overhead, we're the little place to add the LED. That's where the USB port will line up with. That's simply so that this isn't a complete square. It's measured to the dimensions of whatever body part this is called for the switch. Another visualizer too. Before you take this off, make sure you know which way the orientation is. The text on this should be on the opposite side of where the LED mounts. And that's another way to orient. And fit it the other way? These will crash right into the board. So that's the main thing you wanna look out for. These pins are so tall that they're gonna hit your board. You know, this is tall, it doesn't matter. Yeah, so you just wanna make sure that they're oriented that way where the text is on the front. The LED is on the back, close to the USB port. And that, again, is just so that you're not crashing into the board. I run into that. Every time I have an arcade button, you've got giant, like, anyway. All right, that's it. I mean, I could have made it taller, but then again, you know, that's just increasing the print time if you can just orient how the pins are on the case. So it's the only thing to look out for. Attaching the multiple cases, you want to attach this from the bottom if you run your cables first, just so that you're not clashing with your wire, so they're not getting in the way, so. Yeah, so assemble them. Yeah, so either assemble it first or run it through the, connect it from the bottom up like that so you're not running into the wires. Okay. See, after that, it's pretty much just mounting the, or connecting your other switches. Optionally, yeah, optionally adding the LED. And that's pretty much it. Pop. Pop. Only hard part is what keys is going to be pressed. And maybe you want to stomp on them. Pretty strong, maybe you want to stomp on them. Cool. All right, well, great job. Do you guys want to make your own? Yeah, super satisfying when the, it's the shipping team who wanted this built, so it's going to be used for setting up all of your guys' orders. Definitely, I like when it's like a separate project. It looks super pretty and it's super useful for. It's great. For doing work. Yeah, for the accessibility of it. And then, again, it looks so pretty with all of the translucent colors. So if you've got some fun ideas, go ahead and drop them in the discord and we can chat through them. Yeah, one of the ideas that just popped in my head I was talking as having like training your dog, where your dog can just push it for a treat. Not just for humans. Yeah, for animals. It's a nice, yeah, foot pedals, says Andy Calaway. Yeah, yeah, accessibility, yeah. Cool, all right. Let's see if I can get through all the links. I don't think I posted all of the links, but they will be in the show notes. That's where I'm grabbing all of these links from. Wonderful. Curtain bra is saying, yeah, this would be useful as foot pedals, definitely. Yeah, it is. Yeah, like you were saying, that's really good for stomping. Oh, pushing keys over here. Yeah, yeah, mm-hmm, careful of that. Look through the rest of the comments, make sure I got all these. Foot pedals, another one, another person for voting for foot pedals. So yeah, nice solution. Grab a mallet and hit them like a whack-a-boo. Turn it into an arcade game. Gary's saying, yeah, oh, big buttons. That's how Adderford gets all their orders out so fast. Yup. Next, next is print label. Conk. Cool. So we weren't here last week. The last week's project was, we had a project last week, right? No. Sure, no. It was just the time lapse, right? No, it was the menorah video on Monday. Ah, okay, okay. That's what it was. Okay, so we talked about that the week before. Okay, okay. So yeah, let's go ahead and jump into this week's, what are we prototyping? Okay, cool, yeah, what are we prototyping? So yeah, check this out, LearnGuide, right? Yeah, LearnGuide, links are in there, check it out. Yeah, the keybies, get the keybie, they're in stock, so you can get them. Yeah, I would grab those before we run out of stock, and you can set up four notifications when the novel keys come back in. Do we go? Okay. Now jumping into what are you prototyping? So for the break, I wanted to start working on a new camera slider. So I got myself this camera slider. So you might remember the camera slider we did with Liz back in 2019. It does a nice slide and it's all circuit Python. So what we wanted to do this time around is reduce a little bit of the weight. So we have the aluminum extrusion and the sliding carriage going along the aluminum extrusion instead of having to have like a big steel slider bit with a railing in its own platform. So the 3D printed carriage here moves along and all the electronics are now on the carriage. So it's independent from these rails. I wanted to try out using herringbone gears. So not only does it slide left and right, but now I can pan and rotate about 180 degrees. So this stepper, so it has two stepper motors now. This stepper motor has a little 3D printed gear and they mesh together and they stay together because of the way the herringbone profile style is. So you got this nice GoPro here. So this is gonna pan and slide at the same time. We're still using that timing belt, but we did something interesting with the timing belt. So you have this clamp lever. So you can literally just pop that out and now it's free to go. And there are teeth on the side of that profile and that teeth gives it that bite that you need. So when you clamp on it, that clamps right there and it keeps the belt nice and taut and it slides super smooth, much, much better than the previous version. We're still running a tripler feather wing here. So you have the motor feather wing, which can do two stepper motors. It can drive two stepper motors, which is what we're doing. Feather M4, our favorite feather. And down here, we're gonna have probably the TFT with the joystick so we can do some control. But I really like how this is dependent. Some things that I'd like to add that we're going to add, we're gonna have two switches here that are gonna act as end stops. So we won't have to do any crazy math, figuring out the math for the sliding steps. So when it gets here, it'll just hit that switch, Z limit switch, or not Z, but the limit switch and it'll just stop. And then same thing over here, we'll have another switch. So it goes over here. So this is the full length of the aluminum extrusion. We have them, we did have it in stock now, but they're about 600 millimeters in length. So you get a nice, nice distance of slidey slide. Yeah, so this is gonna be a collab project with Liz, of course, for January or February. So just wanted to start figuring out how to get the gears situated and all the wiring and things. We still need a battery pack that will fit in the bottom here because we do want it to be portable with battery. Right now I have this little thing dangling. This is the power supply. But in that, I really like that the motor wing has two stepper motor controls and we'll hide these in the back here in this little plate. But that is the sneak peek of the new camera slide and what did you call it, pan and slide. I wanted to tilt too, but we're just gonna stick with two for now. But that is the prototype that we're working on. It's sort of a, what'd you call it, like a long-term project? Yeah. Super long, but enough to like maybe a month or two out. Very cool. But yeah, I'm excited about that one. That is this week's prototype. Super smooth motion time lapses for that. Yeah, it's gonna be real nice. I'm excited about the gear, the herringbone gears. I have some other ideas for using those mechanisms. So there you go, that is this week's prototype. Super cool. I was gonna show off the, it's kind of like prototype with Trevor and the iOS team is working on, but I didn't grab any links or anything for that. I think it's been announced like on Discord, you can grab the public beta for test flight if you'd like to try out Pylete and Pyglider, but that'll be the Bluetooth controller app for CircuitPython for the CircuitPlay ground blue fruit. And I think the LED glasses and feathers. So it's a nice way to like look through the directories. I like it as a project switcher. Yeah, it's gonna be great. Next little video, that's what we'll be coming out next week on how to use it, some of the features of it and some of the future features that it'll be able to do. Yeah. So it's super cool. Super excited about this one because it's always really cool that you can get people excited on- Modify code on your phone. Modify code on your phone and getting people to, you know, get comfortable with understanding how the code and what variables and values can be edited to like change colors or like sensitivity on the values. So cool. Super cool. All right, another topic on the Shop Talk. We've got some 3D models of the KEB2040 PCB. So if you need that for any type of CAD design, you can pick up the Eagle CAD PCB file which you can import into KyCAD or something else. And we have step files, STL files and all of that of the 3D model itself. You can pull out the components if you need them but they're there. You got a USB-C connector, stomach connector, little capacitors and everything, reset buttons. And, you know, once we have the SOD123, some other components. But yeah, there you go. That is a 3D model and it's up on the Learn Guide for the KEB2040. So you have to cat me for getting that guide out. So you check that out if you have a desire to model up some stuff with the KEB2040. Yeah, I believe those have the pretty pins. So you can see what each one of the pins have in terms of the capability. Yeah, where it's mapped to. A little bit of a different thing, but it's nice. All right, all right. Into this week's community makes. We'll start off with the one from last week. Super cool. It was a request from super fan, super Dune fan, Phillip. Chris Knife. Is it Chris Knife? I know I had spelled it wrong originally. He was like, ah, that's the wrong thing. I thought it was a crystal knife. I guess it's a Christ knife. This takes the full Z in the bed. It was almost the full Z. So much that it kinked my Z-Probe and I had to get a new Z-Probe. He had to sacrifice the Z-Probe to make this. But check this thing out. It's nice. Translucent. We're using just regular Translucent PLA. It came out phenomenal. The, I think it's the Velamentum Galaxy Black with the Galaxy Gray. There's still a bunch of post-processing that you can do like to fill in like all of the lettering right here and doing like some, what is it? The wash, print wash, paint wash. Dry wash. Dry brush. Dry brush. No, I forget. Sorry, you can tell that we're not. Yeah. In terms of props, we can design them but we can't finish in terms of like the texturing and all that. I don't have links, sorry, for this one. So I don't know if you remember. So this is a pay, it's like $10 for this model but it is absolutely worth it because of all the detail that it's on there and the way that it prints out. It saved us many hours and days of modeling because that's not really my skill set. Payton probably do it but I don't have the Zebra's chops or Maya chops to do something like this. Yeah, so you can see all the detail that's on there and what's cool is last week Phil showed off the one that he had bought, like a replica one that's like made out of resin and like whatever else material is to make. Yeah, he was comparing them last week on Ask Engineers and compared them but he likes both of them. Yeah, yeah, this one's, you can disassemble it, the blade comes off, these two parts just, I just hot glued them together. Right, so you just, they're two separate parts, you glue them together. Well, it's really three parts, right? Yeah, three parts. Well, four with the little pin that attaches that. Cool. Yeah, it's so. Put an LED next and light it up. That's what I wanted to do. I think this is really nice. So if you wanna, I guess get the air you can see that it shines nicely. It's a hollow, nothing special I did for the slicing on this, this is just clear PLA. There you go, how many? It might be even clear, two walls. Two walls, they can all, it's a little. No, it's pretty big. Oh, okay, I wouldn't, I'd be careful. Don't be letting your kiddo play with it. Okay, we already dropped it in the. I dropped it. A little pointy part, sorry. She should cut off anyway, smooth it out. I swung it and it flew out of the tank. I was like, oh man, sorry, Pedro. I know how long it took you to print this, but I broke the tip. The STL for the camera rig, it is not done yet. Yeah, I still have edits to do. It's prototyping. It's just prototype, yeah. It looks like it's done, but it's not done yet. Probably January to do. Like I said, yeah, January, February. Yeah, subscribe. Or hang out in the discord. I can share the cat if you want. I can send you the public share link for Fusion. You can just download it if you'd like. Pick it up for us. Super. We're going back over to the doodle though. Nice to go along with your doon cosplay. Again, if you do want this, it costs a little bit of money. Go to our YouTube time-lapse. There's a link right there in credit to the artist who made it. I just didn't have it ready in time for the show. But the next one, that was last week. This week we did, let's do the video here. This is the Stargate. This was designed by Andre Ferraro. So we put that one up. Yeah, this one took quite a while. For whatever reason, the printer kept failing right at the top that you can kind of see. The little parts that weren't filled in. And we have a, I think it's the low-density new pixel strip with a QT pie. Yeah, it's a 60mm per meter on the QT pie in the back, yeah. So currently I only have the, I turned off the animation because I didn't get a photo of it. So that's why it's not animating, but it's running the LED animation library. It's just solid right now. Yeah, so there is a cavity on the inside of this platform as you could put your microcontroller in there. I could not fit it in there. I didn't have time to like customize it. So I just have it on the back here. That's a little QT pie. Have the little right angle USB-C so I can pop out the front there, but you do have like a cavity to add that in there. And I think this is where like the lid for that is supposed to slide in there. You can see like the groove for it. Yeah, you can definitely modify this. I just didn't have any time for that. And a nice, super cool Stargate. Yeah, yeah. I love the little lettering in here and all the details. It's really cool. Yeah, I had the fill gaps turned off, so that's why that's a little bit separated there. But you can, it takes quite a while to print, so. Right. I think I had like four different fails from this just because of whatever happens right up here. Must have been my slice settings or something. Kept grinding the filament. So that's the only problem I had with that. Yeah. It fits on the bed. It looks like it came out like the quality came out way better. The tongs just were perfect for your regular Neopixel strip. I think it's 12 millimeters wide. So your regular, not mini skinny or ultra or any of that, just your regular Neopixel strip. You can get the low density, high density, or in this case, the middle density, which is 60 per meter. Yeah. Cool. Yeah, very, very cool. And I have a link. This one, I do have a link. It is a finger-verse. Andrea Farrow. Yeah. Nice little job. Pull it up real quick just to show it on thingy-verse. Loads. Looks really cool in the photo. I think I picked this one, right? I was like, hey, Pedro, you should make this. I think so. Dude, this is really dope. I think I had a pin for a while, too. It looked really simple. And I was like, oh man, you just print it in one piece? I was happy about the piece. You can't print upwards. And the ring is all in one piece. Because we have two pieces. We have seen those before, but they're all into individual little pieces. And that's cool, too, but when it comes to a time-lapse, we want to show the ease of use. Well, we want to see a good, presentable model being printed on the bed. Otherwise, it's just like squares or circles. Yeah, that's true. It's got to look good on your time-lapse, on your bed. But yeah, very, very, very cool. Thanks to Andrea for preparing all those. And I think they link their microcontroller board that they intended to use. Because it has nice little snaps and things to attach it into. I don't see anything about that. Sorry. I think it, does it scroll down? No, they didn't have how I made this section. Real quick, yep, request to share the link for the camera rig. OK, where on this card? Yes, no, on YouTube. On YouTube? It's going to take me a minute. I'll post the link after the show, OK? And then you'll be able to grab it there. It'll be in the description. Go. So yeah, question on. I don't let people like it. Yeah, that's super cool. So when the animation's going, I thought that was like, nobody wants to make camera sliders anymore. You can buy it for $60 or whatever. Not a motorized pan into. No, it's $600. $600 or $300. Tested did a really good, I was trying to show it to you. They did a really, really nice one. I forget the name of the company. It's like Edochrome, but not Edochrome. Anyway, folks, I'm going to shut up now. That's the inspiration for that? Yeah, I was like, man, I should do this. Or no, it was more of like, oh, maybe you shouldn't do this, because you could just buy a really good one now. But it's like $600. But anyway, whatever. Another question from Badabi asking, what customizations have we done through our printers, like updating the driver board, changing the hotend, stuff like that? I think the most valuable one is the print bed. Got the Flexi-Plate. Flexi-Magnetic Plate. It's the powder-coated. Double-sided, double powder-coated magnetic PEI bed. I guess the best thing. It's not really modification. I mean, well, when you have to switch out your end switches and add like the BL touch so that it can go all the way down to touch, to level it, yeah. The other thing is probably the Noctifans. So all the printers are nice and quiet. For the CR-10 Pro, I think it already comes standard with the CR-10 Pro V2. The belts, so that both side, both threaded rods, so that both of them are completely level. I mean, Octoprint, webcam, Octopi, a Raspberry Pi, and a webcam is super vital for us, because we just have multiple printers, we have printers in the other rooms. Yeah, we need to have them separate from our office. So those are the main upgrades, but nothing too crazy. We have some stock nozzles and stock extruder.com that came with the Crealty CR-2 and CR-3. But we do like machines from Tiny Machines, I believe, tinymachines.com, search for them. They make some good mods to their Crealty printers and they ship them and they QA them and they write custom firmware and they do milling and they mill their own parts that are not plastic. So Tiny Machines, good place to get them. Yeah, that's the main thing right there that they receive the printers in from China. They verify that they mill custom parts for it, they program custom firmware for it. Make sure the wiring is good and don't throw it down your house. They'll swap out stuff, add in more higher quality, like you said, wires and parts, CNC parts, metal parts, not plastic printed parts. This would make a good Infinity Mary, y'all. I did see someone who made one, yeah. Just put the thing here, acrylic. Oh, that'd be cool too, edge-lit acrylic and then you etch something in the inside there. That'd be cool. Any hoodles. Oh, that's a good idea. Tan Lee is saying that the QDPI has the cap touch pads would be simple, useful for these. Stargate maybe like changing animation or the speed of the, how it goes around. And then another question from Tan Lee on the jumper pads on the back of the KB2040, want to verify that they can gain the five-volt logic on all the GPIO. I have heard Lamar say that. Yeah, I saw the same thing. If you just look at the Learn Guide, it's got published yesterday, I believe. You can see it talks about how you would power NeoPixels, for example, through there. So check it out, all the pads on the back real quick. This is how we get to it. The primary guide down here in the pinouts. All the info right there, she has mentioned it, but definitely check this out to verify it. Check out the data sheet for that too. Yeah, raw pin is powering five volts and that raw jumper is right down there. There you go. Check that out if you want to build like a full-sized keyboard. Super useful for having all those lit up, all the LEDs are NeoPixels. Yeah, it bypasses the 500 milliamp fuse or up to two amps from USB ports, as well as USB hosting. Soldered clothes, you can use raw pin for powering NeoPixels. So in order to use the raw pin, you must use the jumper, so there you go. Okay, hope that works out. Let us know how it goes. Cool. I don't know. I haven't been posting links. This is one for the Stargate. Sorry folks. We got bounce out of here soon too, so. Stargate, since people really like that one. Yeah, nice and free. It's a, I mean, with the. Not a lot of downloads, kind of. I really like the simplicity of it. It's all together. All together, all you got to do is slide in your NeoPixels strip. Yeah. Cool. Real quick, check over here. Nope, we're over here. That's why I've been looking at it. Yeah, yeah, yeah, okay. Discord, and on YouTube for that link for the camera, definitely go to discord.gg slash Adafruit. Yeah, also gonna throw it in the description of this YouTube video once it goes live, once it's archived. All right, well, I think that's gonna do for the show, folks. Any last comments or questions? Go ahead and drop them in, but I'm gonna start closing the show down. Don't forget tonight, we are hosting show and tell. It's at 7.30 p.m. Eastern time. We hope to see you there. Just hang out in the Discord chat room at around 7.25-ish, and we'll send you a link so you can join us. And then tomorrow is Ask an Engineer, special edition, Thursday edition. That will be the same time slot at 8 p.m. Eastern time. We also have John Park doing Thursdays, 4 p.m. Eastern time. And then Scott's doing, I believe, a Friday live stream, 2 p.m. Pacific, 5 p.m. Eastern, and it wraps around back over to Sundays with Lamar and Phil. From the desk, Lady Aida, sometimes it's Saturday, sometimes it's Sunday. That's what it says, yeah, weekend edition. Super cool. Check out all of the segments, like, Great Search with Digi King. Yes. I'm off. I'm off key. And then JP's doing up the Tuesdays, but not before Mondays, because it's circa five of the meetings on Mondays. Sorry. It just turns southern twang all of a sudden. And then JP's on Tuesdays at 4 p.m. Eastern, 1 p.m. Pacific. We do the show every Wednesday at 11 a.m. We're glad to see you there, to be here. I'm out of it, man. And I think it's gonna do it. Thank you so much for hanging in there with us. We hope you inspired you. When you hope you're doing all right and staying safe out there. But until then, make sure to make a great day. Go great day. Bye, folks. See you next week. Or tonight. We'll see you tonight. Oh, the dog. All right, bye, folks. Get a walk to the dog. All right.