 Do you think we'll get a spark here? I don't know. Hey everyone, welcome back today to Retro Tech. I've got another Sony PVM that we're going to be repairing today. I'm starting off today by hanging out here in what I like to call the bunk corner. We've got my 1960s Frigidaire refrigerator that does work. And then of course the bunk bed set up here makes a nice little cozy corner. And today we're going to be working specifically on an Olympus OEV203. So without me sitting here talking any more, let's go ahead now into the CRT bunker where we'll be getting a little bit more familiar with our PVM to start with. And then we'll be getting our repair underway. Now here's today's monitor. I've got it set up on my little monitor cart, which is just a carrying case for a Sony PVM14M4U. And the monitor is an OEV203 by Olympus. But if you've been around PVMs for any length of time, you know that that is actually a Sony PVM20M2MDU. And it's just been relabeled as an Olympus, because Olympus during this time period never actually made their own PVMs or any kind of monitors. They would actually outsource that. And most of the time they were done by Sony, at least during this era. And so if we look closer at the back of this monitor, you can see how it looks exactly like a Sony PVM20M2MDU. And it will be marked with some of the same markings internally, but on the outside of the shell. It is marked with Olympus, and then a model number, and then a manufacturing date here. And then we have our input board, which again, these medical units. The reason they're so desirable is because they have a second RGB and component input down here. And they also support, of course, composite, S-video, and component slash RGB. So let's go around. We're going to get set up now to power on and test. And I'll show you what's wrong with this one. Now the PVM is ready to be turned on and tested. I'm not even going to put any kind of a video signal into this one. We're just going to turn it on. And it should show you once it powers on the issue that we have here today. But right away, you can see up here at the top of our screen, we've got blue, green, and red lines. So let's zoom in a little bit there. And you can see very vividly on the top of our screen that we've got a blue, green, and a red line. So that's our issue right there. We've got the red, green, and blue lines, which means a couple of capacitors have failed internally. I'll show you which ones those are. But we're going to go ahead. This is a really clean unit, but it just has this one part failure or two part failure, which Sony did acknowledge in documentation later on after the production of these monitors. But we can repair this and actually upgrade it. So this will not happen again. And then in the same token, we're going to do about 26 more capacitors. We're going to change inside this one as a complete preventative maintenance. So we need to get that done before we really let this run and do too much. Because honestly, these lines will eventually creep further and further into the view. And then ultimately, after probably, I don't know, 100 hours of use of this, maybe more, it will eventually fail completely and it could damage other components and the entire monitor. So before that happens, let's go ahead and get our preventive maintenance out of the way. We're going to start by disassembling this, taking off the shell. And I'll show you what we're going to actually be working on. Now, removing the back shell of the PVM is one of the easiest things you can do if you do it correctly. So let's talk about how you need to do it the right way and not make an easy mistake. First off, you want to remove three chrome screws from each side. So you'll have a total of six chrome screws. And then there are four black screws that are positioned towards the bottom and back of the shell of the PVM on the plastic section. Remove those four screws. So 10 in total and they are all Phillips head screws. So very easy and accessible to remove. And then all you need to do is pull back on the shell. Please do not try to remove the little plastic rivets off of these. They can be very fragile and are very hard to find replacements for. So I always warn people, please do not try to open the shell by separating this back panel from the hard metal shell while it's all attached. If you need to do that, wait to get the shell off. So let's just get up here. We've got those screws removed and it should be as simple as sliding the shell back all the way off. And there we go. Now we have our back area of our PVM and we can look in closer at what we need to remove and repair. If I'm looking here in the back side of the monitor, I'll show you with my pencil what areas are causing the issues. It's actually over in this area by this larger heat sink. There's a capacitor on each side of it and most likely those two have failed or dried out. Then there's also capacitors all in this area, especially around all these heat sinks and this connection point here that goes into our deflection yoke. This is a high heat area. So we should consider and go ahead and do preventative maintenance and change all the caps in this area, which will total out to being about 24 capacitors on our main board here. And then we're also going to recap our neck board up here that is attached to our tube. And we're going to recap this board just as a preventative measure because it also tends to have a lot of heat in that area. So hopefully by doing that we can not only repair the red, green, blue line issue that we have from these two capacitors, but we'll also get a chance to get a better calibration. Now we're ready for one of the most controversial or dangerous and mystifying parts of disassembly on a CRT. And that's to discharge the anode cap and the CRT tube. And there's two ways to do this. You can do this with a CRT discharge tool and most of these are homemade. And I will link to a video where I've shown me making this one. I'm going to use this tool, but not to remove the anode cap. I'm going to go and use the manuals recommendation on removing the cap just so you know, these Sony PVMs do have a built in resistor that should self discharge this monitor, but you can never rely on that 100% of the time. Let's get in closer now and we'll discharge this Olympus. Now according to the manual, we do not want to use a discharge tool under this cap that might scrape the back of the tube and damage our anode cap connection point. So to do this, we're going to squeeze the anode cap and push towards one side. I'm pushing towards my pointer finger and then you can feel it and here it kind of break free. It doesn't really break free. The suction cup still has it, but there's the two points right in there. So we need to discharge those points and then we also need to discharge the tube itself down here. That's where our discharge tool will come into play. I will set that up right now. I'm going to simply clip my alligator clip onto the frame here, which is grounded to everything in the PVM as far as the CRT tube and everything is grounded to the shell and this casing. So we will take the tool that I've made and first we'll just go ahead and discharge this tube. Now do you think we'll get a spark here? I don't know. Most of the time we don't, but what do you think? Is it going to spark? No. So nothing there. Let's try over here on our cap and we'll do the same thing. So now our resistor is working and we've got no current to either the flyback or stored in our tube. It just slides back out right there. We're ready to take it to the bench. All right everybody we're sitting here looking at our overhead view from our bench and if I move my anode cap and cable out of the way I can show you the specific two capacitors on here that are causing all our issues. That is this capacitor right here and then this one right next to it on the other side that is C584 and 572. All our capacitors have been removed from both our main board here and then we've got our neck board that's also had all the capacitors removed and both boards have been cleaned and are ready to have new capacitors installed in them and we'll get to that shortly. But these two are the capacitors that are our problems and again what we have here is a 160 volt 4.7 microfarad 105 degree cap and then over here we've got a 160 volt 2.2 cap. The funny thing is a lot of these other capacitors if I just grab one randomly you'll notice these actually are 85 if you could see that right there 85 degree capacitors. So a lot of them vary on this board and so it'll be good to again go in and do a lot of preventative maintenance and change out all 25 of these capacitors now and hopefully we'll get a better performance. Now we've gone through and finished our recapping at least our preventive maintenance cap kit. It was actually 23 capacitors on this main board. The majority of them are red so they're easy to spot. Some of them are not though so they are sporadically around you know the areas of the deflection specifically. There's our new two capacitors in there that control our RGB lines. So all right guys here's the CRT I'll put back together again the Olympus OEV203 and just so you could see that up there Sony OEV203. Anyway completely reassembled the way you know it's for sure been reassembled as you can see the red capacitors so you know it's different and we're about ready to fire this thing up for the very first time on a brand new test to see if our red green and blue lines have disappeared. The last time we had powered it on we did have those red green and blue lines on the screen at the top due to the vertical blanking caps failing. So now let's just turn around the CRT and we will check out the screen here and just give it a power on and see we got a good green stable light there no problems here cut down on some light and see and just like that check it out before you could see those red green and blue lines we have no lines now let me push the menu button just one more time yep and it's gone that's perfect all right so now give me some time to go through the 240p test suite run some tests and make some adjustments and then I'll show you how this OEV looks at the very end when it's finished and ready to go now here we have the final adjusted picture and it just looks amazing especially now since we've gotten rid of our red green and blue lines and I've used the 240p test suite to go in and calibrate most of the important issues that were kind of needing adjustment at this point so it's ready to go I will just show you a couple things on this repair even if you do this repair if you put your monitor in under scan mode you should still see the red green and blue lines on here they'll be up at the top and they should be in a nice flat one two three kind of way where it's red green and blue and that will always be there on under scan you'll never get rid of that really and then over scan doesn't matter but regular scan you shouldn't see the lines at all so we really enjoyed working on this one but the only thing I can say again is if you have this monitor really any of these m-series monitors make sure you check out just this at least at the least replace the two capacitors and then I think that you know this one is more of a deluxe kit where you're getting more this is about the most you want to do out before you do a full recap really because that's really the only way you're going to get anything maybe better is if you did a complete recap but then you're talking about over 200 capacitors and a lot of money this is more of a deluxe right under that full recap and then you could just do a standard deflection cap which I think has about half as many capacitors as the one on this deluxe kit and then at a minimum just change out the two capacitors that we talked about specifically that control the red green and blue lines because if those do fail out it can cause a lot of damage I'll link to a write-up by another contributor who had some trouble with that and wound up having to replace a lot of the ICs so look at his write-up because he was able to fix his entire monitor sometimes though it will get to the point where it goes too far and it sparks out your flyback and you'll need a new flyback too on top of all the other ICs and components that you have to change on the power supply and the main board it's really a nightmare if it just zaps out from that vertical blanking that's good do it for today's repair thanks for hanging out with me and brut is here in our lovely crt bunker I will see you guys next time with some more retro content