 CHAPTER XII The explorer is determined to move towards Mount Hopeless. Reasons for Mr Burke's choice of that route. Two camels killed. Kindness of the natives. Their supply of water fails. The party are obliged to retrace their steps. Find the Nardu plant and resolve to make a last attempt to reach Mount Hopeless. Mr Will's last visit to Cooper's Creek. Friendly conduct of natives. He reaches depot and deposits journals etc. The natives visit Mr Burke's gunner. A fire breaks out. Mr Will's rejoins the party. They are reduced to subsist on Nardu. Become gradually more and more exhausted. Thrown entirely on their own resources, the explorers had now no other course left than to consider what would probably be the best route to the nearest settlement. After some discussion they determined on moving south west towards Mount Hopeless. Not far from Mount Sel, one of the South Australian police stations. In taking this step they were no doubt influenced by the suggestions thrown out in the second paragraph of the committee's written instructions to Mr Burke, who from information previously received was under the impression that sufficient water might be obtained the whole way, and that the entire distance was little more than a hundred and fifty miles, or less than half the distance to Menindy. Nothing therefore could apparently be more suitable to the condition of the explorers than the proposed route. But a strange fatality seems to have attended all that related to them from the day of their return to the creek. Mr Burke's meshes, however, seem to have been dictated throughout by careful consideration of actual circumstances, which reflects the highest honour on his character as a leader during the whole of this gloriously successful although fatal expedition. Their minds once made up, the party, with habitual energy, lost no time in preparing to commence their journey, but before doing so Mr Burke wrote and deposited in the cage the following letter. Depot number two, Cooper's Creek, Camp 65. Their return party from Carpentaria, consisting of myself, Wills, and King, Gray dead, arrived here last night and found that the depot party had only started on the same day. We proceed on to-morrow, slowly down the creek towards Adelaide by Mount Hopeless, and shall endeavour to follow Gregory's track, but we are very weak. The two camels are done up, and we shall not be able to travel faster than four or five miles a day. Gray died on the road from exhaustion and fatigue. We have all suffered much from hunger. Their provisions left here will, I think, restore our strength. We have discovered a practicable route to Carpentaria, the chief portion of which lies on the hundred and forty degrees of east longitude. There is some good country between this and the stony desert. From there to the tropics the country is dry and stony. Between the tropics and Carpentaria a considerable portion is rangey, but is well watered and richly grassed. We reach the shores of Carpentaria on the eleventh of February, 1861, greatly disappointed at finding the party here gone. Signed, Robert O'Hara Burke, leader. April 22, 1861. P.S. The camels cannot travel, and we cannot walk, or we should follow the other party. We shall move very slowly down the creek. They then covered up the cache, so as to leave it as nearly as possible in the condition in which they found it. Believing that the word dig, already cut on the tree, would answer their purpose as well as it had answered Brass, for they had no reason to think it possible that Brass himself would return to the depot so soon, as afterwards turned out to be the case. Their supply of provisions was, considering everything, tolerably good, and might be fairly calculated to last at least a month, so that, with the assistance of the two camels, they had every reason to believe they might easily reach Mount Hopeless in sufficient time to preserve their lives and reap the reward of their successful exertions. The party started at a quarter-past nine o'clock on the morning of Thursday, the twenty-third of April, 1861, the second day after their return to Cooper's Creek. The following diary gives full particulars of their wanderings, and of the heroism, patience, and mutual fidelity with which the suffering party performed their duty to the last. The melancholy story, as related by Mr. Wills, will, with one trifling exception, footnote, the number of days during which they rested at Cooper's Creek. End of footnote. Course by the disturbed state of mind of the narrator. Be found to agree with the narrative furnished by the sole survivor, John King. This narrative will be found entire in the appendix, but full extracts from it will also be inserted whenever it becomes necessary to supply missing links in the chain of the story. The Advance Party of the Victorian Exploring Expedition, consisting of Burke, Wills, and King, Gray being dead, having returned from Carpentaria on the twenty-first of April in an exhausted and weak state, and finding that the depot party left at Cooper's Creek had started for the Darling, with their horses and camels fresh and in good condition, deemed it useless to own the land. The advance party of the Victorian Exploring Expedition, consisting of Burke, and in good condition, deemed it useless to attempt to overtake them, having only two camels, both done up and being so weak themselves as to be unable to walk more than four or five miles a day. Finding also that the provisions left at the depot for them would scarcely take them to Menindy, started down Cooper's Creek for Adelaide via Mount Hopeless on the morning of the twenty-third of April, intending to follow as nearly as possible the route taken by Gregory. By so doing, they hoped to be able to recruit themselves and the camels while sauntering slowly down the creek, and to have sufficient provisions left to take them comfortably, or at least without risk, to some station in South Australia. Their equipment consists of the following articles, flour fifty pounds, sugar sixty pounds, rice twenty pounds, oatmeal sixty pounds, jerk meat twenty-five pounds, ginger two pounds, salt one pound. Tuesday April twenty-three from depot. Having collected together all the odds and ends that seem likely to be of use to us, in addition to the provisions left in the plant, we started at a quarter past nine a.m., keeping down the southern bank of the Creek. We only went about five miles and came to half past eleven on a bella bong where the feed was pretty good. We find the change of diet already making a great improvement in our spirits and strength. The weather is delightful, days agreeably warm, but the night's very chilly. The latter is more noticeable from our deficiency in clothing, the depot party having taken all the reserve things back with them to the Darling. Wednesday April twenty-four from Camp One. As we were about to start this morning some blacks came by, from whom we were fortunate enough to get about twelve pounds of fish for a few pieces of straps and some matches, etc. This is a great treat for us as well as a valuable addition to our rations. We started at a quarter past eight p.m. on our way down to the Creek, the blacks going in the opposite direction, little thinking that in a few miles they would be able to get lots of pieces for nothing better than those they had obtained from us. To Camp Two. Thursday April twenty-five from Camp Two. Awoke at five o'clock after a most refreshing night's rest, the sky was beautifully clear and the air rather chilly. The terrestrial radiation seems to have been considerable, and a slight dew had fallen. We had scarcely finished breakfast when our friends, the blacks from whom we obtained the fish, made their appearance with a few more, and seemed inclined to go with us and keep up the supply. We gave them some sugar, with which they were greatly pleased. They are by far the most well-behaved blacks we have seen on Coopers Creek. We did not get away from the camp until half past nine a.m., continuing our course down the most southern branch of the creek, which keeps a general south-west course. We passed across a stony point which abuts on one of the largest waterholes in the creek, and camped at half past twelve about a mile below the most dangerous part of the rocky path. At this latter place we had an accident that might have resulted badly for us. One of the camels fell while crossing the worst part, but we fortunately got him out with only a few cuts and bruises. The waterhole at this camp is a very fine one, being two camp three, several miles long, and on an average about blank chains broad. Footnote, sick. End of footnote. The water fell unnumerous, but rather shy. Not nearly so much so, however, as those on the creeks between here and Carpentaria. And I am convinced that the shyness of the latter, which was also remarked by Sturt on his trip to Airst Creek, arises entirely from the scarcity of animals, both human and otherwise, and not from any peculiar mode of catching them that the blacks may have. Friday, April 26, from camp three. Last night was beautifully calm and comparatively warm, although the sky was very clear. Reloaded the camels by moonlight this morning and started at a quarter to six. Striking off to the south of the creek, we soon got on a native path which leaves the creek just below the stoning ground and takes a course nearly west across a piece of open country, bounded on the south by sand ridges and on the north by the scrubby ground which flanks the bank off the creek at this part of its course. Leaving the path on the right at a distance of three miles, we turned up a small creek which passes down between some sandhills. And finding a nice patch of feed for the camels at a waterhole, we halted at fifteen minutes past seven for breakfast. We started again at fifteen minutes past nine a.m., continuing our westerly course along the path. We crossed to the south of the watercourse above the water and proceeded over the most splendid salt-bush country that one could wish to see. Bounded on the left by sandhills, walls to the right of their peculiar-looking flat top sandstone ranges form an extensive amphitheater through the far side of the arena of which may betray the dark liner creek timber. At twelve o'clock we camped in the bed of the creek at Camp Blank. Footnote, sick, end of footnote. Our last camp on the road down from the gulf, having taken four days to do what we then did in one. This comparative rest and the change in diet have also worked wonders. However, the leg-tide feeling is now entirely gone, and I believe that in less than a week we shall be fit to undergo any fatigue whatever. The camels are improving and seem capable of doing all that we are likely to require of them. 2. Camp 4. Saturday, April 27. First part of the night clear, with a light breeze from the south. Temperature at midnight ten degrees. Ray amure. Towards morning there were a few serocumulus clouds passing over northeast to southwest, but these disappeared before daylight. At five a.m. the temperature was seven point five degrees. Ray amure. We started at six o'clock and following the native path, which at about a mile from our camp takes a southerly direction. We soon came to the high sandy alluvial deposit, which separates the creek at this point from the stony rises. Here we struck off from the path, keeping well to the south of the creek, in order that we might mess in a branch of it that took a southerly direction. At twenty minutes past nine we came in on the creek again where it runs due south and halted for breakfast at a fine water-hole, with fine fresh feed for the camels. Here we remained until noon, when we moved on again and camped at one o'clock on a general course, having been throughout the morning southwest eight miles. The weather is most agreeable and pleasant. Nothing could be more favorable to us up to the present time. The temperature in the shade at half past ten a.m. was seventeen point five Ray amure. With a light breeze from south and a few small serocumulus clouds from the north, I greatly feel the want of more instruments. The only things I have left being my watch, prism, compass, pocket compass, and one thermometer. Ray amure. To camp five. Sunday April twenty-eight, from camp five. Morning fine and calm but rather chilly. Started at a quarter to five a.m. following down the bed of a creek in a westerly direction by moonlight. Our stage was, however, very short. For about a mile one of the camels, Linda, got bogged by the side of a water-hole, and although we tried every means in our power we found it impossible to get him out. All the ground beneath the surface was a bottomless quicksand, through which the beast sank too rapidly for us to get bushes or timber fairly beneath him. And being of a very sluggish, stupid nature he could never begot to make sufficient strenuous efforts towards extricating himself. In the evening as the last chance we let the water in from the creek, so as to bore him up and at the same time soften the ground about his legs. But it was of no avail. The brute lay quietly in it as if he quite enjoyed his position. To camp six. Monday April twenty-nine, from camp six. Finding Linda still in the hole we made a few attempts to extricate him and then shot him. And after breakfast commenced cutting off what flesh we could get at for jerking. Tuesday April thirty, camp six. Remained here today for the purpose of drying the meat, for which process the weather is not very favourable. Wednesday May one, from camp six. Started at twenty minutes to nine, having loaded our only camel, Raja, with the most necessary and useful articles, and packed up a small swag each of bedding and clothing for our own shoulders. We kept on the right bank of the creek for about a mile, and then crossed over at a native camp to the left, where we got on a path running due west, the creek having turned to the north. Following the path we crossed an open plain, and then sand ridges, whence we saw the creek straight ahead of us, running nearly south again. The path took us to the southernmost point of the bend, in a distance of about two and a half miles from where we had crossed the creek, thereby saving us from three to four miles, as it cannot be less than six miles round by the creek. To camp seven. Thursday May second, camp seven. Breakfasted by moonlight and started at half past six. Following down the left bank of the creek in a westerly direction, we came at a distance of six miles on a lot of natives, who were camped on a bed of the creek. They seemed to have just breakfasted, and were most liberal in their presentations of fish and cake. We could only return the compliment by some fish hooks and sugar. About a mile further on we came to a separation of the creek, where what looked like the main branch looked towards the south. This channel we followed, not however, without some misgivings as to its character, which was soon increased by the small and unfavorable appearance that the creek assumed. On our continuing along a little farther it began to improve, and widened out with fine water holes of considerable depth. The banks were very steep, and a belt of scrub lined on either side. This made it very inconvenient for traveling, especially as the bed of the creek was full of water for a considerable distance. At eleven a.m. we halted until half past one p.m. and then moved on again, taking a south-south westerly course for about two miles, when at the end of a very long waterhole it breaks into bellabongs, which continue splitting into sandy channels until they are all lost in the earthy soil of a box forest. Seeing little chance of water ahead we turned back to the end of the long waterhole and camped for the night. On our way back Raja showed signs of being done up. He had been trembling greatly all morning. Footnote. The poor brute, no doubt, fretted for his dead companion Linda. It will be remembered that one of the camels, Gola, previously lost on the trip to Carpentaria, was found on the second of March looking thin and miserable. With evident tokens of not having fed for a considerable time, but when he saw the other camels he began to eat. End of footnote. On this account his load was further lightened to the amount of a few pounds by doing away with the sugar, ginger, tea, cocoa, and two or three tin plates. To camp number eight. Friday, May 3rd, camp eight. Started at 7 a.m., striking off in a northerly direction for the main creek. At a mile and a half came to a branch which, in brackets, left unfinished. End of bracket. To camp number nine. Saturday, May 4. Junction from camp nine. Night and morning very cold. Sky clear, almost calm. Occasionally a light breath of air from south. Raja appears to feel the cold very much. He was so stiff this morning as to be scarcely able to get up with his load. Started to return down the creek at 6.45 and halted for breakfast at 9 a.m., at the same spot as we breakfasted at yesterday. Proceeding from there down the creek, we soon found a repetition of the features that were exhibited by the creek examined on Thursday. At a mile and a half we came to the last waterhole, and below that the channel became more sandy and shallow, and continued to send off billabongs to the south and west, slightly changing its course each time until it disappeared all together in a north-westerly direction. Leaving King with a camel, we went on a mile or two to see if we could find water, and being unsuccessful we were obliged to return to where we had breakfasted, as being the best place for feed and water. Sunday May 5 to Camp 10 Started by myself to reconnoitre the country in a southerly direction, leaving Mr Burke and King with a camel at Camp No. 10. Traveled south-west by south for two hours, following the course at the most southerly billabongs. Found the earthy soil becoming more loose and cracked up, and the box track gradually disappearing. Changed course to west for a high sand ridge, which I reached in one hour and a half, and continuing in the same direction to one still higher, obtained from a good view of the surrounding country. To the north were the extensive box boroughs bounding the creek on either side. To the east earthy plains intersected by water courses and lines of timber, and bounded in the distance by sand ridges. To the south the projection of the sand ridge partially intercepted the view. The rest was composed of earthy plains, apparently clothed with chrysanthemums. To the westward another but smaller plain was bounded also by high sand ridges, running parallel with the one on which I was standing. This dreary prospect offering no encouragement for one to proceed. I returned to Camp 10 by a more direct and better route than I had come, passing over some good salt bushland which borders on the billabongs to the westward. Monday May 6 from Camp 10 back to Camp 9 Moved up the creek again to Camp 9 at the junction to breakfast and remained the day there. The present state of things is not calculated to raise our spirits much. The rations are rapidly diminishing, our clothing, especially the boots, are all going to pieces, and we have not the materials for repairing them properly. The camel is completely done up and can scarcely get along, although he has the best to feed and is resting half his time. I suppose this will end in our having to live like the blacks for a few months. Tuesday May 7 Camp 9 Breakfast at daylight but when about to start found that the camel would not rise, even without any load on his back. After making every attempt to get him up, we were obliged to leave him to himself. Mr Burke and I started down the creek to reconnoiter. At about 11 miles we came to some blacks fishing. They gave us some half a dozen fish each for luncheon, and intimated that if we would go to their camp we should have some more and some bread. I tore into a piece of Macintosh stuff that I had, and Mr Burke gave one piece and I the other. We then went on to their camp about three miles farther. They had caught a considerable quantity of fish, but most of them were small. I noticed three different kinds, a small one that they called Koopy, five to six inches long and not broader than an eel. The common one with large core scales turned Peru, and a delicious fish some of which run from a pound to two pounds weight. The natives call them Kowilchi. On our arrival at the camp they led us to a spot to camp on, and soon afterwards brought a lot of fish and bread which they call Nadu. The lighting a fire with matches delights them, but they do not care about having them. In the evening various members of the tribe came down with lumps of Nadu and handfuls of fish, until we were positively unable to eat any more. They also gave us some stuff they call Beduri, or Peduri. It has a highly intoxicating effect when chewed even in small quantities. It appears to be the dried stems and leaves of some shrub. Wednesday, May 8. Left the blacks camp at half past seven, Mr Burke returning to the junction whilst I proceeded to trace down the creek. This I found a shorter task than I had expected, for it soon showed signs of running out, and at the same time kept considerably to the north of west. There were several fine waterholes within about four miles of the camp I had left, but not a drop all the way beyond that, a distance of seven miles. Finding that the creek turned greatly towards the north I returned to the blacks encampment, and as I was about to pass they invited me to stay. So I did so, and was even more hospitably entertained than before, being on this occasion offered a share of a gunya, and supplied with plenty of fish and Nadu, as well as a couple of nice fat rats. The latter found most delicious. They were baked in their skins. Last night was clear and calm, but unusually warm. We slept by a fire just in front of the blacks camp. They were very attentive in bringing us firewood and keeping fire up during the night. Thursday, May 9. Parted from my friends the blacks at half past seven, and started for Camp 9. Friday, May 10, Camp 9. Mr. Burke and King employed in jerking the camel's flesh. Footnote. Their last camel, Raja, was shot this day as the poor brute was evidently on the point of dying. Vyde King's narrative. End of footnote. Whilst I went out to look for the Nadu seed for making bread. In this I was unsuccessful, not being able to find a single tree of it in the neighbourhood of the camp. I however tried boiling the large kind of bean which the blacks call Padlu. They boil easily and when shelled are very sweet, much resembling the taste of the French chestnut. They are to be found in large quantities nearly everywhere. Saturday, May 11, Camp 9. Today Mr. Burke and King started down the creek for the blacks camp, determined to ascertain all particulars about the Nadu seed. I have now my turn at the meat jerking, and must devise some means for trapping the birds and rats, which is a pleasant prospect after our dashing trip to Carpentaria, having to hang about Cooper's Creek living like the blacks. Sunday, May 12. Mr. Burke and King returned this morning, having been unsuccessful in their search for the blacks, who, it seems, have moved over to the other branch of the creek, decided on moving out on the main creek tomorrow and then trying to find the natives of the creek. Monday, May 13. Shifted some of the things and brought them back again. Mr. Burke thinking it better for one to remain here with them for a few days, so as to eat the remains of the fresh meat, whilst the others went in search of the blacks and Nadu. Tuesday, May 14. Mr. Burke and King gone up the creek to look for blacks, with four days' provisions, self-employed in preparing for a final start on their return. This evening Mr. Burke and King returned, having been some considerable distance up the creek and found no blacks. It is now settled that we plant the things and all start together the day after tomorrow. Footnote. They had now decided to make a second attempt to reach Mount Hopeless. At this time the poor sufferers had become dreadfully wearied and their daily ration had become much reduced. End of footnote. The weather continues very fine, the nights calm, clear and cold and the day's clear, with a breeze generally from south, but today from east, for a change. This makes the first part of the day rather cold. When clouds appear they invariably move from west to east. Wednesday, May 15, Camp 9. Planting the things and preparing to leave the creek for Mount Hopeless. Thursday, May 16. Having completed our planting etc. started up the creek to the second blacks camp a distance of about eight miles. Finding our loads rather too heavy, we made a small plant here of such articles as could best be spared. Friday, May 17. Nadu. Started this morning on a blacks path, leaving the creek on our left, our intention being to keep a south-easterly direction until we should cut some likely looking creek, and then to follow it down. On approaching the foot of the first sand hill, King caught sight in the flat of some Nadu seeds, and we soon found that the flat was covered with them. This discovery caused somewhat of a revolution in our feelings, for we considered that with the knowledge of this plant we were in a position to support ourselves, even if we were destined to remain on the creek and wait for assistance from town. Crossing some sand ridges running north and south, we struck into a creek which runs out of Cooper's Creek and followed it down. At about five miles we came to a large waterhole, beyond which the water course runs out on extensive flats and earthy plains. Calm night, sky cleared towards morning and it became very cold. A slight easterly breeze sprang up at sunrise, but soon died away again. The sky again became overcast and remained so throughout the day. There was occasionally a light breeze from the south, but during the greater portion of the day it was quite calm. Fine halo around the sun in the afternoon. Saturday, May 18, Camp 16, in brackets. No entry except the following meteorological entry on an opposite page, which may probably refer to this date. End of bracket. Calm night, sky sometimes clear and sometimes partially overcast with veil clouds. Sunday, May 19, in brackets. No entry beyond this citation of date. End of bracket. Monday, May 20, in brackets. No entry beyond this. End of bracket. Tuesday, May 21, creek. In brackets. No entry beyond this. End of bracket. Wednesday, May 22, Cooper's Creek. In brackets. No entry beyond this. End of bracket. Thursday, May 23, in brackets. No entry beyond this. End of bracket. Friday, May 24, started with King to celebrate the Queen's birthday by fetching from Nardu Creek what is now to us the staff of life. Returned at a little after 2 p.m. with a fair supply, but find the collecting of the seed a slower and more troublesome process than could be desired. Whilst picking the seed about 11 o'clock a.m., both of us heard distinctly the noise of an explosion, as of a gun, at some considerable distance. We supposed to have been a shot fired by Mr Burke, but on returning to the camp found that he had not fired nor heard the noise. The sky was partially overcast with high cumulostratus clouds, and a light breeze blew from the east, but nothing to indicate a thunderstorm in any direction. The following extract from King's narrative refers to the period. Mr Wills and I went out to gather Nardu, off which we obtained a supply sufficient for three days, and finding a pounding stone at the Ganyas, Mr Burke and I pounded the seed, which was such slow work that we were compelled to use half flour and half Nardu. Mr Burke and Mr Wills then went down the creek for the remainder of the dried meat, which we had planted, and we had now all our things with us, gathering Nardu and living the best way we could. Mr Burke requested Mr Wills to go up the creek as far as the depot, and to place a note in the plant there, stating that we were then living on the creek, the former note having stated that we were on our road to South Australia. Footnote, as far as Mr Burke was concerned he does not seem to have omitted a single thing necessary for the safety of his party. End of footnote. He also was to bury there the field-books of the journey to the gulf. Before starting he got three pounds of flour and four pounds of pounded Nardu, and about a pound of meat, as he expected to be absent about eight days. During his absence I gathered Nardu and pounded it, as Mr Burke wished to lay in a supply in case of rain. Diary continued. Monday May 27. Started up the creek this morning for the depot in order to deposit journals and a record of the state of affairs here. On reaching the sandhills below where Linda was bogged I passed some blacks on a flat collecting Nardu's seed. Never saw such an abundance of the seed before. The ground in some parts was quite black with it. There were only two or three gins and children, and they directed me on, as if to their camp in the direction I was before going. But I had not gone far over the first sand hill when I was overtaken by about twenty blacks, bent on taking me back to their camp, and promising any quantity of Nardu and fish. On my going with them one carried the shovel and another insisted on taking my swag, in such a friendly manner that I could not refuse them. They were greatly amused with the various little things I had with me. In the evening they supplied me with abundance of Nardu and fish, and one of the old men, Pokotinamira, shared his gunner with me. The night was very cold, but by the help of several fires. In brackets the entry suddenly stops, but in the margin of the opposite page are written the names of several natives and certain native words, with their meanings in English. End of Bracket Tuesday, May 28 Left the blacks camp and proceeded up the creek, obtained some muscles near where Linda died and halted for breakfast. Still feel very unwell from the effects of the constipation of the bowels. After breakfast travelled on to our third camp coming down. Wednesday, May 29 Started at seven o'clock and went on to the duck holes, where we breakfasted coming down. Halted there at thirty minutes past nine for a feed and then moved on. At the stone saw a lot of crows quarrelling about something near the water. Found it to be a large fish, off which they had eaten a considerable portion. Finding it quite fresh and good I decided the quarrel by taking it with me. It proved a most valuable addition to my otherwise scanty supper of nardu porridge. This evening I camped very comfortably in a mea-mea, about eleven miles from the depot. The night was very cold, although not entirely cloudless. A brisk easterly breeze sprang up in the morning and blew freshly all day. In the evening the sky clouded in and there were one or two slight showers, but nothing to wet the ground. Thursday, May 30 Reach the depot this morning at eleven o'clock. No traces of anyone except blacks having been here since we left. Deposited some journals and a notice of our present condition. Started back in the afternoon and camped at the first water-hole. Last night being cloudy was unusually warm and pleasant. Mr. Will's last letter. Depo Camp, May 30 We have been unable to leave the creek. Both camels are dead and our provisions are done. Mr. Burke and King are down the lower part of the creek. I am about to return to them, when we shall probably come up this way. We are trying to live the best way we can, like the blacks, but find it hard work. Our clothes are going to peace as fast. Send provisions and clothes as soon as possible. W. J. Will's The depo party, having left contrary to instructions, has put us in this fix. I have deposited some of my journals here for fear of accidents. Signed W. J. W. Friday, May 31 Decamped at thirty minutes past seven, having first breakfasted. Passed between the sandhills at nine and reached the blanket Mia Mears at twenty minutes to eleven. From there proceeded on to the rocks where I arrived at half past one, having delayed about half an hour on the road in gathering some porchillac. It had been a fine morning, but the sky now became overcast and threatened to set in for a steady rain. And as I felt very weak and tired, I only moved on about a mile farther, and camped in a sheltered gully under some bushes. Night clear and very cold, no wind. Towards morning sky became slightly overcast, with zero stratus clouds. Saturday, June 1 Started at a quarter to eight a.m. Passed the duck holes at ten a.m. and my second camp up at two p.m., having rested in the meantime about forty-five minutes. Thought to have reached the blacks camp, or at least where Linda was bogged, but found myself altogether too weak and exhausted, in fact had extreme difficulty in getting across the numerous little gullies, and was at last obliged to camp from sheer fatigue. Night ultimately clear and cloudy with occasional showers. Sunday, June 2 Started at half past six, thinking to breakfast at the blacks camp below Linda's grave. Found myself very much fagged and did not arrive at their camp until ten a.m., and then found myself disappointed as to a good breakfast, the camp being deserted. Having rested a while and eaten a few fish bones, I moved down the creek, hoping by a late March to be able to reach our own camp. But I soon found from my extreme weakness that that would be out of the question. A certain amount of good luck, however, still stuck to me. For, on going along by a large waterhole, I was so fortunate as to find a large fish, about a pound and a half in weight, which was just being choked by another which I had tried to swallow, but which had stuck in its throat. I soon had a fire lit and both of the fish cooked and eaten. The large one was in good condition. Moving on again after my late breakfast, I passed Camp 67 off the journey to Carpentaria, and camped for the night under some polygonal bushes. Monday, June 3. Started at seven o'clock, and keeping on the south bank of the creek was rather encouraged at about three miles by the sound of numerous crows ahead. Presently fancied I could see smoke, and was shortly afterwards set at my ease by hearing a koo-ee from Pitchery, who stood on the opposite bank and directed me around the lower end of the waterhole, continually repeating his assurance of abundance of fish and bread. Having with some considerable difficulty managed to ascend the sandy path that led to the camp. I was conducted by the chief to a fire, where a large pile of fish were just being cooked in the most approved style. These I imagined to be for the general consumption of the half a dozen natives gathered round, but it turned out that they had already had their breakfast. I was expected to dispose of this lot, a task which to my own astonishment I soon accomplished, keeping two or three blacks pretty steadily at work extracting bones for me. The fish being disposed of next came a supply of Nardu cake and water, until I was so full as to be unable to eat any more, when Pitchery allowing me a short time to recover myself, fetched a large bowl of the raw Nardu flour, mixed to a thin paste, a most insinuating article, and one that they appeared to esteem a great delicacy. I was then invited to stop the night there, but this I declined and proceeded on my way home. Tuesday June 4 Started for the blacks camp, intending to test the practicability of living with them, and to see what I could learn as to their ways and manners. Wednesday June 5 Remained with the blacks, light rain during the greater part of the night, and more or less throughout the day in showers, wind blowing in squalls from south. Footnote A few days after Mr. Wills left, some natives came down the creek to fish at some water holes near our camp. They were very civil to us at first, and offered us some fish. On the second day they came again to fish, and Mr. Burke took down two bags which they filled for him. On the third day they gave us one bag of fish, and afterwards all came to our camp. We used to keep our ammunition and other articles in one gunya, and all three of us lived together in another. One of the natives took an oil cloth out of this gunya, and Mr. Burke seeing him run away with it, followed him with this revolver and fired over his head, and upon this the native dropped the oil cloth. While he was away the other blacks invited me away to a water hole to eat fish, but I declined to do so, as Mr. Burke was away and a number of natives were about who would have taken all our things. When I refused one took his boomerang and laid it over my shoulder, and then told me by signs that if I called out for Mr. Burke as I was doing he would strike me. Upon this I got them all in front of the gunya and fired a revolver over their heads, but they did not seem at all afraid, until I got out the gun when they all ran away. Mr. Burke hearing the report came back, and we saw no more of them until late that night, when they came with some cooked fish and called out white fellow. Mr. Burke then went out with his revolver and found a whole tribe coming down, all painted and with fish in small nets carried by two men. Mr. Burke went to meet them and they wished to surround him, but he knocked as many of the nets of fish out of their hands as he could, and shouted out to me to fire. I did so and they ran off. We collected five small nets of cooked fish. The reason he would not accept the fish from them was that he was afraid of being too friendly, lest they should always be at our camp. We then lived on fish until Mr. Wills returned. King's narrative. End of footnote. Thursday June 6 Return to our own camp found that Mr. Burke and King had been well supplied with fish by the blacks, made preparation for shifting our camp nearer to theirs on the morrow. Friday June 7 Started in the afternoon for the blacks camp, with such things as we could take, found ourselves all very weak in spite of the abundant supply of fish that we have lately had. I myself could scarcely get along, although carrying the lighter swag only about 30 pounds, found that the blacks had de-camped, so determined on proceeding tomorrow up to the next camp near the Nardu field. Saturday June 8 With the greatest fatigue and difficulty we reached the Nardu camp, no blacks greatly to our disappointment, took possession of the best mea-mia and rested for the remainder of the day. Sunday June 9 King and I proceeded to collect Nardu, leaving Mr. Burke at home. Monday June 10 Mr. Burke and King collecting Nardu, self at home, too weak to go out, was fortunate enough to shoot a crow. Tuesday June 11 King out for Nardu, Mr. Burke up the creek to look for the blacks. Wednesday June 12 King out collecting Nardu, Mr. Burke and I at home, pounding and cleaning. I still feel myself, if anything, weaker in the legs, although the Nardu appears to be more thoroughly digested. Thursday June 13 Last night the sky was pretty clear, and the air rather cold, but nearly calm. A few serrastratus hung about the northeast horizon during the first part of the night. Mr. Burke and King out for Nardu, self weaker than ever, scarcely able to go to the water-hole for water. Towards afternoon serracumulus and serrastratus began to appear, moving northward, scarcely any wind all day. Friday June 14 Night alternately clear and cloudy. Serracumulus and cumulus stratus moving northwards, no wind, beautifully mowed for the time of year, in the morning some heavy clouds on the horizon. King out for Nardu, brought in a good supply. Mr. Burke and I at home, pounding and cleaning seed. I feel weaker than ever, and both Mr. B and King are beginning to feel very unsteady in the legs. Saturday June 15 Night clear, calm and cold, morning very fine, with a light breath of air from northeast. King out for Nardu, brought in a fine supply. Mr. Burke and I, pounding and cleaning. He finds himself getting very weak, and I am not a bit stronger. I have determined on beginning to chew tobacco and eat less Nardu, in hopes that it may induce some change in the system. I have never yet recovered from constipation, the effect of which is exceedingly painful. Sunday June 16 Wind shifted north, clouds moving from west to east, thunder audible two or three times to the southward, sky becoming densely overcast with an occasional shower about nine a.m. We finished up the remains of the Raja for dinner yesterday. King was fortunate enough to shoot a crow this morning. The rain kept all hands in, pounding and cleaning seed during the morning. The weather cleared up towards the middle of the day, and a brisk breeze sprang up in the south, lasting till near sunset, but rather irregular in its force. Distant thunder was audible to westward and southward, frequently during the afternoon. Monday June 17 Night very boisterous and stormy, northerly wind blowing in squalls, and heavy showers of rain with thunder in the north and west, heavy clouds moving rapidly from north to south, gradually clearing up during the morning. The wind continuing squally during the day from west and northwest. King out in the afternoon for Nadu. Tuesday June 18 Exceedingly cold night, sky clear, slight breeze, very chilly and changeable, very heavy dew. After sunrise, Sir Astrada's clouds began to pass over from west to east, gradually becoming more dense and assuming the form of cumulus stratus. The sky cleared and it became warmer towards noon. Wednesday June 19 Night calm, sky during first part overcast with Sir Acumulus clouds, most of which cleared away towards morning, leaving the air much colder, but the sky remained more or less hazy all night, and it was not nearly as cold as last night. About eight o'clock a strong southerly wind sprang up, which enabled King to blow the dust out of our Nadu seeds, but made me too weak to render him any assistance. Thursday June 20 Night and morning very cold, sky clear, I am completely reduced by the effects of the cold and starvation. King gone out for Nadu, Mr. Birk at home pounding seed, he finds himself getting very weak in the legs. King holds out by far the best, the food seems to agree with him pretty well. Finding the sun come out pretty warm towards noon, I took a sponging all over, but it seemed to do little good beyond the cleaning effects, for my weakness is so great that I could not do it with proper expedition. I cannot understand this Nadu at all, it certainly will not agree with me in any form, we are now reduced to it alone, and we managed to get from four to five pounds per day between us. Friday June 21 Last night was cold and clear, winding up with a strong wind from northeast in the morning. I feel much weaker than ever, and can scarcely crawl out of the mea-mia. Unless relief comes in some form or other, I cannot possibly last more than a fortnight. It is a great consolation, at least, in this position of ours, to know that we have done all we could, and that our deaths will rather be the result of the mismanagement of others than any rash acts of our own. Had we come to grief elsewhere, we could only have blamed ourselves. But here we are, returned to Cooper's Creek where we had every reason to look for provisions and clothing, and yet we have to die of starvation. In spite of the explicit instructions given by Mr Burke, that the depot party should await our return and the strong recommendation to the committee that we should be followed up by a party from Menendee. At about noon a change of wind took place, and it blew almost as hard from the west as it did previously from the northeast. A few syracumilas continued to pass over towards east. Saturday June 22 Night cloudy and warm, every appearance of rain, thunder once or twice during the night, clouds moving in an easterly direction, lower atmosphere perfectly calm. There were a few drops of rain during the night and in the morning, about nine a.m. There was every prospect of more rain until towards noon when the sky cleared up for a time. Mr Burke and King out for Nardu. The former returned much fatigued. I am so weak today as to be unable to get on my feet. Sunday June 23 All hands at home. I am so weak as to be incapable of crawling out of the mea-mia. King holds out well, but Mr Burke finds himself weaker every day. Monday June 24 A fearful night. At about an hour before sunset a southerly gale sprang up and continued throughout the greater portion of the night. The cold was intense and it seemed as if one would be shriveled up. Towards morning it fortunately lulled a little, but a strong cold breeze continued till near sunset, after which it became perfectly calm. King went out for Nardu in spite of the wind and came in with a good load, but he himself terribly cut up. He says that he can no longer keep up the work, and as he and Mr Burke are both getting rapidly weaker, we have but a slight chance of anything but starvation, unless we can get hold of some blacks. Tuesday June 25 Night calm, clear and intensely cold, especially towards morning. Near daybreak King reported seeing a moon in the east with a haze of light stretching up from it. He declared it to be quite as large as the moon, and not dim at the edges. I am so weak that any attempt to get a sight of it was out of the question, but I think it must have been Venus in the Sodiakal light that he saw, with a corona around her. Mr Burke and King remain at home cleaning and pounding seed. They are both getting weaker every day. The cold plays the juice with us from the small amount of clothing we have. My wardrobe consists of a wide awake, a merino shirt, a regatta shirt without sleeves, the remains of a pair of flannel trousers, two pairs of socks in rags, and a waistcoat of which I have managed to keep the pockets together. The others are no better off. Besides these we have between us for bedding, two small camel pads, some horse hair, two or three little bits of rag, and pieces of oil cloth saved from the fire. The day turned out nice and warm. End of Chapter 12 Chapter 13 of Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 This is a LibriVox recording, or LibriVox recording through in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org Recording by Magdalena Cook Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 by Andrew Jackson Chapter 13 Burke and King resolve on making a last effort to find the blacks. Their reluctance to leave wills. His last entries in the journal. His death. Burke's last journey. His failing strength. He becomes utterly exhausted the second day. His heroic efforts. His last moments. His death. Mr. Will's being at last reduced to a state of such extreme weakness as to be unable to get on his feet or to crawl out of the Mia Mia or Ganya. The hopes of the poor sufferers were reduced to the lowest ebb. King still continued gathering and pounding the Nardu and Mr. Burke rendered what assistance he could, but became at last so weak that he said he could be of little use in pounding. King was then obliged to gather and pound for all three of them and he continued to do so for some time. At last his strength also failed and he was obliged to lie up for three or four days compelling the party to consume a small stock of food which they had laid by in case of emergency. Under these circumstances Mr. Burke proposed as a last chance that as much Nardu as possible should be collected and pounded in three days and that he and King should make another effort to find the blacks as the only means in their power of averting death from starvation. Mr. Will's as will be seen from the following entries joined in this view and during the three or four days which elapsed before putting it in execution Mr. Burke repeatedly asked him whether he still wished it. As under no other circumstances would they leave him. To this he finally replied that he looked upon their doing so as the only chance that remained for the whole party and coursing the remainder off his fieldbooks to be buried outside the gunner. He gave Mr. Burke a letter and his watch for his father requesting that if King survived Mr. Burke he would attend to his last wishes in delivering them. Wednesday June 26 1861 Calm night sky overcast with hazy cumulus strada clouds an easterly breeze sprang up towards morning making the air much cooler. After sunrise there were indications of a clearing up off the sky but it soon clouded in again. The upper current continuing to move in an easterly direction whilst a breeze from the east and northeast blew pretty regularly throughout the day. Mr. Burke and King are preparing to go up the creek in search of the blacks. They will leave me some nado, wood and water with which I must do the best I can until they return. I think this is almost our only chance. I feel myself, if anything, rather better but I cannot say stronger. The nado is beginning to agree better with me but without some change I see little chance for any of us. They have both shown great hesitation and reluctance with regard to leaving me and have repeatedly decided my candid opinion in the matter. I could only repeat, however, that I considered it our only chance for I could not last long on the nado even if a supply could be kept up. Thursday June 27 Cloudy, calm and comparatively warm night clouds almost stationary. In the morning a gentle breeze from east. Sky partially cleared up during the day making it pleasantly warm and bright. It remained clear during the afternoon and evening offering every prospect of a clear cold night. Friday June 28 Clear cold night slight breeze from the east day beautifully warm and pleasant. Mr Burke suffers greatly from the cold and is getting extremely weak. He and King start tomorrow up the creek to look for the blacks. It is the only chance we have of being saved from starvation. I am weaker than ever although I have a good appetite and relish the nado much but it seems to give us no nutriment and the birds here are so shy as not to be got at. Even if we got a good supply of fish I doubt whether we could do much work on them and the nado alone. Nothing now but the greatest good luck can save any of us and as for myself I may live for a five days if the weather continues warm. My pulse is at 48 and very weak and my legs and arms are nearly skin and bone. I can only look out like Mr McCorber for something to turn up. Starvation on nado is by no means very unpleasant but for the weakness one feels and the utter inability to move oneself. For as far as appetite is concerned it gives me the greatest satisfaction. Certainly fat and sugar would be more to one's taste in fact those seem to me to be the great standby for one in this extraordinary continent. Not that I mean to depreciate the farinaceous food but the want of sugar and fat in all substances obtainable here is so great that they become almost valueless to us as articles of food without the addition of something else. Signed W. J. Wills and thus fitly closing with his own great name the diary of the brave man ended. Few will read this touching narrative without deep emotion at the struggles and sufferings it records and feelings of admiration for the many virtues displayed by the heroic writer who relinquishes his duties only with his life. His patience and devotion to his leader his fidelity and cheerfulness in the discharge of every duty entrusted to him are so conspicuous throughout every page of his affecting journal that no further observation of mine are needful. The growing peace of mind which seems in mercy to have been given to sustain his departing spirit shines out more and more clearly towards the end and the latest strength of the devoted martyr is exerted in carefully recording such information as he considers may hereafter be useful. To the course of science or to those who may venture on a like perilous journey in the wilderness the care with which he registers each little incident on this last day and the almost pleasant tone in which he alludes to the chance of something turning up must strike every reader with admiration. While the accuracy of his prediction as to the length of time he would probably live may serve once more to remind us that there are more things in heaven and earth than are dreamt of in our philosophy. When King returned four days afterwards he found Paul Wills lying dead in his gunner and he buried him lightly in the sand. We have no record of Mr. Wills' feelings on entering the dark valley of the shadow of death and no ostentatious display of religious feeling is made in the pages of the explorer's journal. But we know from another source, footnote, King's evidence before royal commission question 1714, end of footnote, that the tribute due from the creature to the creator was never forgotten by them in their wanderings. They remembered in whose hands they were and it may be confidently hoped that when the last struggle came the still small voice whispered as of old in the dying man's ear. Fear thou not, for I am with thee. Be not dismayed, for I am thy God. I will strengthen thee, ye. I will help thee, ye. I will uphold thee with the right hand of my righteousness. In the meantime, Mr. Burke had set out with King to try and find the blacks, but had not travelled far before he felt that his little remaining strength was rapidly fading away. He complained of great pain in his legs and back, but with the indomitable perseverance which always distinguished him and which had already led to the successful accomplishment of his exploring neighbours, he managed to make a terrible day's journey. This was on the 29th June. The following morning he seemed better and said he thought he was getting stronger, but alas, it was only the last flickering of the lamp of life. After travelling about two miles, he was obliged to say he could go no further. But King, who had already witnessed the almost superhuman exertions Mr. Burke had made on several occasions, encouraged him to make another effort, and by little and little managed to get him along several times. It is piteous to read of the unfailing constancy with which poor Mr. Burke answered these calls upon him, although he must have known he was then dying. But every step he took in advance was a chance for Mr. Wills, and he never flinched from his duty while power was left him to raise a limb. He walked till he dropped. Footnote. Royal Commission, Question 1066. End of footnote. At last he said he could not carry his swag, and through all he had away. See how gradually death came softly stealing on, how silently. Again starting, he soon wished to halt for the night, but as the place was close to a large sheet of water and exposed to wind, King prevailed upon him to go a little farther to a more sheltered spot, where they at last made their camp. Having nothing to eat, they searched about and found a few small patches of nardu which King collected and pounded, and shooting a crow besides they made their last meal together. And now the hour had come. Mr. Burke, who had gradually been getting worse, at length told King he felt convinced he could not last many hours longer, requesting him to give his watch and pocket book to Sir William Storwell, and adding, I hope you will remain with me here until I am quite dead. It is a comfort to know that someone is by, but when I am dying, it is my wish that you should place the pistol in my right hand and that you leave me unburied as I lie. Footnote. He had received a pistol as a parting gift from the inhabitants of Beechworth when he quitted that district, and being a man of warm feelings towards those to whom he was attached, probably wished to retain possession of it in his last moments, in remembrance of them. Knowing King's weak state, he doubtless wished to stop him, he doubtless wished to spare him the labour of digging a grave. It has already been seen how a delay for that purpose in poor Gray's case led to Mr. Burke's own untimely death. End of footnote. Throughout that night he spoke but little, and all was over at an early hour the following morning. In the solitude of the lonely forest he sank gently to his long rest, but underneath him were the everlasting arms. His cares, his fears, his anxious doubts were over, and his work accomplished. In his last moments the blessed calmness fell upon him, and with a firm hand he traced a few parting words to his sister. The struggles of his weary pilgrimage ended, his mind was at peace, and in that dread hour his heart was attuned to harmonise with none but pure and holy thoughts. He thought of the old home at St. Clarence, of his brother, of the nurse who, though he knew it not, had travelled thousands of miles in her old age to see her darling Robert, of all who had any time been dear to him. With these and a thousand other sweet memories floating around him, and with the name of his dear sister breathing in low murmurs from his lips, the brave spirit passed into the presence of its creator. End of Chapter 13 Chapter 14 of Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 This is the LibriVox recording. All LibriVox recordings are in the public domain. For more information or to volunteer, please visit LibriVox.org. Recording by Magdalena Cook Robert O'Hara Burke and the Australian Exploring Expedition of 1860 by Andrew Jackson Chapter 14 Bra's journey towards the Darling he meets with and joins Wright's party. Bra and Wright visit Cooper's Creek but failing to observe the traces of Mr. Burke's return rejoin their companions. Bra arrives in Melbourne and reports progress. The Committee of the Royal Society deliberate as to what should be done to rescue Mr. Burke, their approval of his measures. While the melancholy events recorded in the two preceding chapters were taking place, Bra, who, as has been said, quitted the depot at Cooper's Creek just seven hours before the return of the party from Carpentaria. Continue to travel south with his men for seven days. At the end of that period, meeting Wright's party at Baloo, the two affected a junction. As will be seen from the following extracts, they visited the cache at Cooper's Creek together but failed to observe any traces of Mr. Burke's return. They found nothing which would have led to the opening of the cache and the consequential of the brave men then dying of want in the wilderness. Bra says, under date 28th April 1861, went very early in search of the horses up the creek. At about daylight I got in sight of them at the same time observing smoke rising within 300 yards from me and near the horses. There was not light enough to see well and I thought I had dropped upon a camp of natives and resolved to try to obtain some information respecting the Darling Party. After going a few yards farther, I saw to my great surprise a European advance towards me. It was Mr. Hodgkinson. He led me to Mr. Wright's camp, and after bringing in our party with horses and camels, etc., I placed myself and party under the orders of Mr. Wright. Wright, however, states that Bra joined him on the 29th, which is probably correct, as Bra's journal was compiled some time after the occurrence of the events it records, partly from recollection and partly from a few rough notes he had jotted down to assist his memory. Wright says in his dispatch to the committee, dated 20th June 1861, With two of the party of eight dead and a third dying further advance or a longer stay at Baloo, amid unfriendly natives were alike impracticable, and had our cattle been molested by the natives, our fate would have been sealed. Dr. Beckler and Mr. Hodgkinson with myself were the only healthy members of the party, and I decided upon an immediate retreat to Toruoto, at which place I hoped to recruit the sick and obtain fresh stools from the Darling. On the 28th of April, therefore, I packed up, proposing to start next morning, but during the night a bell was heard, and at daylight a mob of horses, recognised as forming part of Mr. Burke's equipment, was seen feeding near the stockade. Shortly afterwards Mr. Bra came up, and we were gratified to find that he was in charge of a party consisting of Patton, McDonald and Bowton, with twelve horses and six camels, very much infected with scab. On their way to the Darling, from the depot established by Mr. Burke at Cooper's Creek, Mr. Bra at once placed himself and party under my orders. The following is from Mr. Wright's diary. Monday, April 29, 1861, Baloo. The horses were very troublesome during the night, perpetually trying to steal away, and though closely hobbled, more than once attempting to swim the broad creek. About 3 a.m. a bell was heard from the south, and a number of dark objects, like cattle, could be dimly seen through the darkness. When daylight broke these objects were recognised as forming part of the mob of horses taken by Mr. Burke. And shortly afterwards Mr. Bra came up, and reported that he had just arrived from Cooper's Creek, where Mr. Burke had left him on the 16th of December, in charge of a depot consisting of Patton, McDonald, Bowton, six camels and twelve horses. Mr. Bra had received instructions to remain at Cooper's Creek for three or four months, but had extended that period to 18 weeks, and only left when his rations ran short. Previous to leaving he made a case of provisions, sufficient to enable Mr. Burke and party, if competent to retrace their steps to reach the Darling. Mr. Bra had not followed Mr. Burke's track to Baloo, but had pursued a direct course, and reached the 52nd camp of Mr. Burke, eight miles south of my depot, in about 80 miles. His horses had been one hundred hours without water, but travelled with much less difficulty than could have been hoped for. On proceeding to Mr. Bra's camp, I found Patton suffering from scurvy to an alarming extent. McDonald almost unable to work and Bowton complaining. Mr. Bra placed himself under my orders, and I united the two camps in the course of the morning. Off the camels brought down by Mr. Bra I found three, beer, rower, and mustana, suffering severely from scab. The others were in good condition. At a quarter past five this afternoon Mr. Becker died. Tuesday, April 30, Baloo. The night passed quietly, no signs of natives being near having occurred. Early this morning Mr. Becker was buried. The stockade pulled down, and the logs used to form, as far as possible, a protection to the dead. Mr. Becker's clothes, bedding, tent, etc., being quite unfit for use, were burned, and his other effects placed in a pack for conveyance to Melbourne. Wednesday, May 1, Baloo. Sadlin commenced at 6am, and half past 10am we left Baloo on our return to Menindy. Dr. Beckler, Mr. Hodgkinson, Mr. Bra, Bowton, and myself were the only healthy members of the party, and I did not see the utility of pushing on the depot to Coopers Creek for the purpose of remaining there the few weeks our stores would last. Our cavocade made quite an imposing appearance, with its 22 horses, 15 camels, and the spirits of the whole party were animated by the prospect of regaining the settled districts. Several stoppages took place during the day, from the necessity of altering the seat of our invillids, or readjusting loads, and to show that our departure was not unnoticed by the natives. Fire sprang up at every mile of our progress, until we reached Culliato, at a tolerably early hour in the afternoon. Patten was greatly fatigued by his ride. Thursday, May 2, Culliato. Spelled at Culliato, got up a tent for Patten. Friday, May 3, Culliato. As I was anxious to ascertain before finally leaving the country, whether Mr. Burke had visited the old depot at Coopers Creek between the present date and that on which he left on his advance northward, or whether the stores caged there had been disturbed by the natives. I started with Mr. Bra and three horses for Coopers Creek, and reached the headwaters of that creek on Sunday the 5th, in about 70 miles, staring about west-northwest. I did not find any water throughout that distance, but crossed several fine large gum creeks, and saw an immense number of native dogs. The remainder of the party stayed at Culliato. Wednesday, May 8, Culliato. This morning I reached the Coopers Creek depot, and found no sign of Mr. Burke having visited the creek, or the natives having disturbed the stores. I therefore retraced my steps to the depot, which remained at Culliato. Before the Royal Commission, Bra gave the following evidence. When you returned to Coopers Creek with Wright, how long did you remain there? I suppose I could not exactly tell, not more than a quarter of an hour at the depot. Did you make any examination about to see who had been there? Yes. I tied my horse up, and so I believed did Wright, near the cache, and went into the stockade, and around it, and examined all the trees. Could you not discover any tracks? I saw camel tracks, but supposed them to be our own. Did you see any impression of human feet? No impression. Why? From the number of rats and the place being dusty. Are you bushmen enough to be able to follow a track? Yes. Have you ever practised it? Yes, I have, off horses and camels. Could you tell the difference between the track of a white man and of a native? Certainly, unless they were barefooted. Even barefooted? I should not be able. You did not discover any track that would lead you to suppose any one had been there? None. I should certainly have opened the cache if I had thought any one had been there. I thought the natives had been there on account of those three different fireplaces. Did you see any native tracks? No, not fresh. At whose instigation did you return after meeting Wright, yours or his? Mine. What was the object of that? I had got Wright and Patton he was in the doctor's hands. I thought he required rest there and would get all Wright in a fortnight's time. Mr. Wright, not having gone to Coopers Creek, I thought that we could not be better employed than in going back there as the last chance for Mr. Burke. Had you a lingering suspicion that he might be there? Yes, there is still a chance. When you met Mr. Wright, had you then between the two parties and abundance of provisions? I believe so, but I do not know what quantity of provisions Wright had I never inquired. Until the time of going back to the Darling, you might have concluded that there was an abundance. I do not think there was any to spare at the Darling. By joining Wright's party, had you nothing additional that you could have taken back to deposit at the cache? Yes, we could have taken some. You say, I think, that you had abundance with you when you returned to Coopers Creek with Mr. Wright? Yes, we could have taken provisions from Ballew. Did it not strike you to do so? No. And that it did not strike either of them to do so is the most unaccountable part of their whole conduct. The following is from Wright's examination. Brow joined you on the 29th of April, and on the 1st of May, you turned your back upon the creek, that is, two days afterwards? Yes, I went about 20 miles back. On the 1st of May, you left Ballew on your return. At that time, you had the number of men I have mentioned—Viz, yourself, Hodgkinson, Beckler, Smith, Belooch, Brahe, McDonough, and Doss-Muhammad—two of them ailing and the rest intolerable health, with abundance of horses and camels, all in good condition, with abundance of provisions, but having got some distance, you thought better of it? I did not think better of it after going some short distance. Because it was my intention as soon as Brahe came in to go to Cooper's Creek, which I stated to him. After going two days' journey, you did return to Cooper's Creek. I buried Dr Becker the day after Brahe came, and I shifted the camp about 20 miles further down the creek and then went to Cooper's Creek. Did you take any spare horses with you? We took a pack horse. You did not take any provisions or clothing with you? No. How long were you reaching Cooper's Creek? We reached there on the third day. What day did you leave? I do not recollect the day, but the diary will show. You reached Cooper's Creek on Wednesday, the 8th of May, and you say you found no signs of Mr Burke having visited the creek, or of natives having disturbed the stores. How did you arrive at that conclusion? There was no mark above the ground showing that any white man had been there. There were two or three fires about the place, which I suppose had been made by blacks. I looked at those fires particularly, and there was not a stick of wood as large as one of the pen sticks on the table which was not burned, just as a black fellow makes a fire. He just brings what is enough to keep a fire and no more. I took Brahe there and told him to take particular notice to see if the place was in the same way he left it, and he looked at it and said it was. The place had been covered over, and everything was so much like he had left it that he did not know it had been disturbed. Did you leave any record at Cooper's Creek off your having been there? No, I did not. I intended doing so, but I thought if I disturbed the place where the things were buried and took the bottle up, the chances were the blacks, as I suppose they had been at the depot, would discover them. I was not very sure whether they were watching us. We had seen a smoke the night before, and being overcautious, I would not take the bottle up to put a note in it. There was a mark of the 21st of April on the tree that was left unaltered. Everything was left just as Brahe left it according to his account. If Mr Burke had returned there, how was he to know anybody had been there? They could have seen my horse tracks where the things were buried. I remarked to Brahe he ought to have buried those things two or three days before he left and put the horses in under the shade, as he had been doing before. And I said at all events we will put our horses in here now and let them walk about on it, and the blacks will never think of digging there, if they should happen to be looking about. Would there have been any difficulty in putting W for right and the 8th of May under the 21st of April? I could have done that with a knife if I had had the presence of mind to do so. You did not go to the creek at all? No. You did not make any search, in fact. I just stayed there and had a look around about the place. In fact, I first thought of camping there that night, but the horses I had taken with me, being horses that had been at Cooper's Creek with Mr Brahe, he said if we stop here tonight, the horses will certainly go back five miles up the creek to the place where they used to run, and we shall have to walk up there in the morning for them. And I thought it just as well to camp where the horses were used to stop as to camp there. When I saw no mark showing that any white man had been there, I was very anxious to get back to my depot as soon as I possibly could do so, knowing the state the men were in. Would it not have been possible to have sent Mr Brahe or some other trustworthy person back to the sick people, and yourself have gone up to Cooper's Creek and remained there for some time? It would have been impossible to have done so. It will be remembered that 22 days after this visit, on the 30th of May, Mr Wills visited the place for the last time. Wright and Brahe, having rejoined the companions, proceeded towards Menindy via Toruoto and reached the Darling on Tuesday, the 18th of June, 1861. Brahe left for Melbourne on Friday, the 21st of June, taking with him an account of his and Wright's proceedings, and such papers as had been addressed to the committee by Mr Burke, when he quitted Cooper's Creek for Carpentaria on the 16th of December, 1860. On the morning of the 30th of June, 1861, the day before Mr Burke's death, Brahe arrived in Melbourne and delivered his dispatchers into the hands of Dr McAdam, honorary secretary to the committee, who, having been apprised of Brahe's approach by Telegram on the previous day, had communicated with Sir Henry Barkley and arranged to lay the papers before his excellency and Sir William Starwell at the earliest possible moment. This was accordingly done. The same afternoon, being Sunday, a special meeting of the committee was held to hear the documents read, and determine what steps should be taken for the relief of the explorers. At this meeting, Brahe was examined and gave an account of all that had occurred within his knowledge, up to that time. He explained his reasons for leaving Cooper's Creek before Mr Burke's return, and gave such additional information, with respect to the habits of the natives and the state of the country, as he considered might be useful to any relief party proceeding in search of his leader. It will be appropriate, in this place, to show what were the opinions held at this time by the leading members of the committee, with regard to those proceedings of Mr Burke which were found fault with, after a full knowledge of actual results had been obtained. Results, be it observed, not attributable to any want of care or forethought on the part of Mr Burke, but arising from the disregard of instructions and a fatal want of steadfastness, on the part of those to whom he had entrusted the means of affording him relief. Sir William Starwell, Chief Justice, said, A great many difficulties might have met Mr Burke, any one of which would account for not hearing from him. His men might have been attacked with scurvy and be still alive, without being able to move any distance, and they might be in some place waiting the arrival of the rainy season. That was but one of the thousand chances that might detain him. Although he, Sir William, was anxious to get the worse from Mr Bra, he was not afraid of Mr Burke after the wise and careful way he had proceeded to Cooper's Creek, and the manner in which he had followed the instructions of the committee. He thought that Mr Burke would have satisfied himself, that the cause north from Cooper's Creek was not practicable, and that then he went to the west after getting over the stony desert. Stuart's country had plenty of water and feed, and it could not be a bad season at which he started. For a fortnight after, Stuart, who had been over the country before, went out a second time. Although they must necessarily feel anxious about Burke and his party, there was no ground for despairing at all. The question was, what steps should they take in order that assistance might reach him as speedily as possible? Mr Liga, Surveyor General, said, Looking to what Mr Burke was about, he conceived that on the whole he had attempted to carry out the instructions of the committee in the best manner possible. The first instruction was to make a route to the Gulf of Carpentaria, keeping Stuart's track on his left and Gregory's on his right. He did it and failed, and then he tried to get into Stuart's track. He, Mr Liga, was convinced that Mr Burke was since Stuart's country, or he was pushing to where Dr Mueller and Mr Gregory went lower down. What Mr Bra had done since parting with Mr Burke was a matter the committee could leave for consideration two or three days hence. It was very interesting and would make a continuous narrative of the expedition up to the last that was seen of the leader. What they should rather bend their minds to now was how to reach Mr Burke and secure him. It struck him that Mr Burke weakened his party by dividing it into three. Thus far he disagreed with him. So will you stay well. It must not be forgotten that Mr Wright and Party were to follow the main party with provisions and join Mr Burke. Dr Mueller urged the necessity of acting promptly, but the party must be sufficiently strong so that if Scurvy attacked them, aid could be detached to attend the sick, which could not be done with a small party. Indeed, a small party would be stopped, as Mr Wright's had been by sickness. It was necessary to procure the aid of the natives, if possible, for their quick eye would discover traces in the wilderness that no Caucasian eye could discover. It was incumbent on the committee to send aid speedily. Calculating the provisions that Mr Burke's party had with them, he found that, with the prudence and economy that they might suppose Mr Burke would practice, they would have averaged rations for five months. Economising still more, and with the assistance of game and wild animals the party might procure, the provisions might be made to go still further. Although there was room for great fear and anxiety to be entertained, he did not consider Mr Burke's case hopeless. Prompt measures should be adopted as Mr Burke might find it possible to spin out his rations till Sikur reached him. Mr Burke, if tied up, would reasonably expect the committee would send Sikur. Dr Wilkie pointed out that when the expedition first started, there were 18 men in it. The fact was that at this moment the committee had only four men in the field. He thought that under those circumstances, with the aid of a large vote from the legislator, that the committee should provide Sikur on a liberal scale. They should send a party sufficiently strong to leave a subsidiary party at the depot, Cooper's Creek, to which they should take stores, so that if Mr Burke returned, he might be secure. It was incumbent on the committee to arrange at once to send a large party under Mr Howard, say 10 or 11. Mr Wright's party intended to reach Cooper's Creek in three weeks, when halfway they were attacked by scurvy, and there they remained within 200 miles off Menindy. Mr Wright could send no one away for Sikur, and had it not been for the return of the party from Cooper's Creek, the whole must have perished. The committee had simply to strengthen Mr Howard's party, or to reorganize it with different instructions from those already issued. He could leave four men at Cooper's Creek while he proceeded in search of Mr Burke with the main strength of his party. Sir William Starwell thought they should pass the resolution and settle the strength of the party. That would be something gained, and would enable Mr Howard to make dispatch with his arrangements next day. Doing something to save a day would be doing a great deal. Dr Gilby thought the proper organization of the party was of more importance than gaining a day, and he moved the adjournment of the meeting till next day, when they would have Mr Brass' written statement to guide them. While in the meantime Mr Howard, as well as the committee, could give their most earnest consideration to the whole subject. Sir William Starwell thought it would be a great pity that they should adjourn, having so unusually met on a Sunday without doing something. Here, here. All they knew now was that four men whom they sent out required aid. They could arrive at a resolution to send aid, which would enable Mr Howard to proceed with these arrangements. They need not settle the number now. They could determine eventually the minor details. The men's lives were depending on a thread, perhaps. Footnote. In everything connected with this expedition, Sir William Starwell appears to have been conspicuous throughout for the practical nature of his views, and the energy with which he at all times urged the necessity of prompt action. Here it was who, when the account of Stuart's discoveries was forwarded to Mr Burke, wrote at the same time a private note begging that nothing short of the actual fulfilment of his mission should cause Mr Burke to relax in his efforts to succeed. End of footnote. The above extracts therefore go to show that the very measures subsequently animadverted upon unfavourable were on the whole, stamped with the approval of the committee as a body at this time. The report of the Royal Commission will be given at length in a subsequent chapter, and the reader can then judge for himself as to the justice all otherwise offered strictures on the conduct of the brave man, who added millions of habitable acres to the dominion of his country at the cost of his life. End of Chapter 14