 Hey, what's up folks? Welcome back to another 3D Hangouts. My name is Noah Ruiz. I'm a designer here at Adafruit and join me every week. Here's my brother Pedro. Good morning, everybody. I'm Pedro. I was creative tech here at Adafruit and every week we're here to share 3D printed projects featuring electronics from Adafruit. That's right. This is where we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects. Hello, everybody hanging out in the live chat room on our Discord server. If you would like to join us during the show, you can check out Adafruit's Discord server. The invite link, the URL for that is adafruit.it slash adafruit, wait slash discord, or we have one up here in the banner, discord.gg slash adafruit. So we're going to take a couple moments to welcome everybody. Good morning, everybody hanging out. Shoutouts to everyone hanging out. Do Western, DJ Devin, Andy Calloway, Yanni. Hello, people are dropping their sharing their projects with us. You can share your projects. You can share memes, gifts, all sorts of funness. And we appreciate everybody doing that. It's always fun. If you have any questions, any comments, go ahead and drop those there as well. We're also hanging out in the various chat rooms and the various social platforms like Facebook, YouTube, Twitch, and the Twitter. And we'll continue on with this morning's housekeeping. Yes, let's head on over to adafruit.com slash free. Similar to last week, we have three different tiers. We're offering one of these pieces here, but supplies last, and the supply has not lasted. So until we fabricate some more, we'll get the half-size for produce back. But for now, for orders that are 149 or more, you'll get the KB2040. That's the RP2040 driver. That's great for keyboard projects. And if your order is $200 or more, you'll get a free KB2040 plus UPS, ground shipping for continental U.S. only. If your order is $299 or more, you'll get that free ground shipping, the KB2040, and a circuit playground express. You can get these automatically added to your cart. So there's no need for coupon codes on that, adafruit.com slash free for more details. We also have a 10% off discount code today, which you can use in conjunction with your freebies. That's hexpad. Let's check out. So there's a little box that you can put in the coupon code. And today, it's going to work for the rest of the day, hexpad. And we can go to the next housekeeping adafruit.com slash jobs. See if that works. Yeah. It is still under construction. For now, it'll redirect you to Adafruit's careers. And we have those three positions that are still open for local, how do you say it, for onsite only positions here. That's the shipping and fulfillment director, employee resources assistant, and the facilities coordinator, all fantastic jobs at Adafruit. So if you are in the area and you're in the market for a new gig, and you like these, and you qualify, check this out. Adafruit.com slash careers. All right, that is the housekeeping for now. Yeah, we have kind of a short show, a short show plan for everybody. But we have some fun things that we're going to talk about. We have a very fun project, very musical, got some new resin prints and some really fun community makes. So yeah, Pedro, if you want to add any other things, feel free to do so. Yeah, let's go ahead and jump into the project. All right. Well, you might have seen this already, but this week, we decided to make a video for John Park's hex keypad. This is a lovely custom PCB designed by John Park. It uses the QT Pi RP2040 as the main dev board and circuit Python to make a MIDI device. So this has the custom PCB design that John designed was made in fritzing. And it's a free open source design that you can fabricate yourself or send to any of the awesome services out there like Oshpaq PCB way. Even Digikey has their own PCB services. Yeah, so you can check this out. And these have footprints for the chalk key switches. These are lovely low profile mechanical key switches. And then John decided to add some reverse mounted neopixels. So these are reverse mounted neopixels that are pointing at the other side to illuminate these key switches. And these, John designed the case as well. So this is a really nice design that he made in Rhino software, CAD software. And I went ahead and 3D printed it using the change filament, the change filament, G code pro processing that you can do in slices like Cura where you can swap out filament to get different layers of colors. So these are four or maybe five different layer changes to get this yellow and black kind of beehive looking color palette. And then these key caps were sent off to 3D printing service. You might have heard of them PCB way. They offer really nice resin prints. And these are using the UTR8100 transparent resin. And it has the spray varnish option as the color. And later in the show, we have some other prints that we'll share. But for now, let me do a quick little demo. So this is a mini controller. And every note has a different set of keys to make chords. And in the code, you can change all the MIDI notes. There's a range of different notes that you can play with. Here, you can use the QDPI's boot button to go into mode select mode. When you press the QDPI's boot button, all of the new pixels will light up red letting you know that it's ready for input. And then you use, you use the keys to select a mode. And if you have the Moo editor, you can look at the REPL, the serial console, to see what options you can select. And John Park has a key legend that allows you, that gives you an idea of what keys to hit. So the first mode is to select what kind of chords you want to select. So let's select this one for now. And then the Moo editor will ask you, well, what octave do you want? And you have up to seven different options. And then it's going to ask you what key. And then when you press the key, it selects that key as a root note. And then you can select either single notes or chords. So I'm going to select the chords and you get a nice little animation letting you know it's ready to play. So yeah, that's kind of the gist of the project. And I've been using a lot, discover new notes and chords to make like, you know, very, very nice music, I think, and they all kind of blend well together. So I'm using, it's going to work with any number of MIDI hardware and software. I'm using Logic, which is a piece of software for the Mac OS. You can use GarageBand. You can use an iOS device. It's, you know, using USB-C. So you connect this up to your iOS device using a Lightning adapter. So any type of MIDI software will work with it or hardware. If you wanted to plug this into like a MIDI box, like maybe a cord or something like that, you control your very sense, hardware sense with this. I guess I could pick something different here. So let's take a look at the learn guide. Please do some window management here. Sorry. You're good. You're good. Trying to figure out all my key commands. Yeah, that's fine. That's a good one. That looks good. Yeah. So, yeah, most of this is put together by John Park. You have seen him develop it from designing it in fritzing to prototyping it and coding it in CircuitPython. So definitely check out JP's workshop videos. We'll probably have some links in there too of them. So you can see it kind of built. But here is all the parts that are used. You got the QtpyRP2040. You have an option of Chalk key switches. These right here are the kind of clicky ones. You could use some other ones. I think we have Black and Red, I believe. Let me take a quick look. If you open it in a new tab, there's all the Chalk key switches here. We only have two of them. Okay. But you could use other ones too. But these are the Kale style ones. So the red ones are kind of clicky. No, the red ones are silent. So if you don't want that clickiness, you can go with the red ones or you can go with the white ones that have that click to them. But that is the main difference between those two. One of them are silent and the other one has a noise. These reverse mount come in a packet 10, currently out of stock. But maybe you can purchase them from other suppliers like DigiKey. Yep, you can buy them on DigiKey. These are great for DIY projects. And at Adafruit, Lamar uses them in various designs like these little Cherry MX breakout boards. So those are really cool to use in your keyboard projects. And then if you want to purchase some pre-made hexagonal Chalk keycaps, you can purchase them from any one of these links here. Or you can 3D print them yourself. Or you can download the STL that we provide and have that send that off to a 3D printing service and get them printed in different colors. But the main difference here between the ones we designed and the ones that that you can get from like FK caps is that they have like this kind of a scoop design to them. So they have like a little dome shape to them. Yeah, for your fingers. So they feel a little bit nicer and they're made out of like the HDPE material. And they only come in one color, but they're still pretty cool. And they have good, you know, light diffusion. They're fusing. Yep, the PCB, you can go ahead and download it. Here's the schematic for it. JP shows you in a guide how you can create your own, how to get custom shapes using the fritzing software. And you can send this off to like Oshpark. There's a Gerber file here that you can use. You can get them in purple or midnight black. And yeah, Oshpark is a good one. I was lucky JP sent me one. So that's good. So John's guide shows you soldering it up. You want to probably start with the Neopixels first, get your headers on there, then solder in the keycaps or the mechanical key switches. And I think the last thing you want to do is solder in your QT pie in the right orientation. And yeah, it's a pretty straightforward assembly. It's just a little bit of surface mount soldering, which isn't too bad with these nice pads here for the Neopixels. Building the case. So we have the step file. If you want to modify it, you can add some buttons or whatever you'd like to it or change the shape, add a back cover if you'd like. We like the open back cover just so that you can access the QT pie's boot button. But the step file allow you to do that. We also have the STL. I have a little section here on how I went about using the change filament post processing script inside of Cura. Or you could do this in a different slicer like I think Prusa Slicer has a different user interface, but it's kind of the same thing. The main thing I want to look at is what layer numbers to actually apply the changes. It's kind of simple for here. It's like every 20 millimeters, you want to change it out. There is a little bit of overhang material or overhang or bridging that your printer will need to do for the USB-C port. So I went ahead and had a little area here for adding supports, custom supports, to the USB port area just so you get a really nice surface finish on that layer. And yeah, that's pretty much it for 3D printing. The hex key caps, similar kind of thing. You can download the step file. We created it in Fusion 360. So you can modify that if you'd like. But the STL will print good in both FDM and SLA 3D printing. And I went ahead and got some screenshots and highlighted, annotated like, you know, the options when you're using a PCB way and you want to create these very clear crystal clear resin prints, you want to select these options. It's the UTR8100 transparent option with the spray varnish color. And that's kind of it. Your quantity... I'm going to highlight transparent, not translucent. That is true. We had Anne Barela on the team. She chose the translucent, which is over here. If you can see my mouse cursor, there is a UTR8100 translucent. And what that is is it just makes it kind of this like frosted white color, which looks really good. But if you want that really clear, transparent look, you want to select this option here. But they have a bunch of other materials that you could choose from. I've only tried out the UTR8100. But they have ABS, PLA, TPU, and aluminum. So you can get them in aluminum if you'd like. Yeah, titanium. They have a wide range of different things. I think if you get like 100 of them, the price will go down. And they have a really nice interface. So if you want to actually add color, you can use the matte diffuse and then that option there. And then you can use a custom Pantone color. And I have one print that I can show later. But yeah, you can go really crazy with the options here. Can you do transparent aluminum? I don't think so. When you change the material, all of these types of the subcategory of the material will change. Yeah, so maybe they have a polished aluminum and a rough aluminum, I don't know, textured aluminum. Who knows, right? Yeah, the texture. I'm not sure. So you all have to try that out. But like I was saying, the quantity, I think if you go like past 100, the price will drop. But yeah, your price will vary depending on shipping costs and all that. But I think they're pretty affordable compared to some other services. So that's a little bit of that. Yeah, and then slicing them, they don't need any supports. I sliced these and printed them with a regular 0.4 nozzle using 0.2 layer height. And they came out fantastic. So you can choose whatever PLA material you want. And maybe use some translucent colored filament if you want a different tone. But they look great, illuminated. And they're pretty strong, too. Circuit Python, this just is a mirrored page. It's installing Circuit Python onto your QT PyR for 2040, pretty straightforward. And then the code. John does a great job of having everything commented out, which is nice. And then if you want more or less buttons, you can modify the code. Here is the list of the modal intervals or really the set of keys. So you have Major, Minor, Dorian, and a couple other different ones. So you can mix those up if you want. Change the default modes here. And everything's commented. So you can really go in here. And even if you don't know Python, you can read the comments to kind of flip some different values if you want. Pick some different colors and that sort of thing. There's some options here on some software, music software. That's, most of them are free. There's some web-based ones, iOS ones, Linux, Windows, and Mac. So there's a bunch. And then here is the actual, you know, the key legends for the various modes. So these are all the different modes, the octaves, the root notes, and then the chord mode at the end there. And then a nice breakdown of each kind of chunk of code and what it does. So, yeah. Shout out to John for making it very comprehensive. And this thing goes on very, very detailed. But that's just a bit. Very, very fun. You can kind of design your own controller. Maybe you could apply this to another device, an existing device, maybe like a MIDI guitar, like I've done a MIDI guitar. You could apply it to that code. And you're one of the many awesome MIDI devices that you can make. And a huge shout out to John for coming up with the whole thing, really. Yeah, that was great. Cool. The QT-PIs, I just thought everything's in stock, except the reverse mount. But again, you could always go to Digi-Key. Let's see if Digi-Key has it. They are out of stock as well, because they're good. Yeah, maybe try another place, maybe a Mauser or something. All right. And that is the SoundCloud song that you used on there too. Yeah, I created a song in the background of the video, the YouTube video. And it's on SoundCloud. So if you folks want to check it out, it's a free download. Feel free to use it in your project videos. Just don't license or anything. So free how about it. All right. Cool. Oh, John says we are all about the MIDI. Yeah, we're all about the MIDI, for sure. Cool. Oh, a comment here that AliExpress sells them as well. Let's check out over there. Oh yeah, that's a good spot. Okay. Yeah, for the reverse mount. Yeah. Cool. Any shout-out for you. Yes, it's the exact same form factor. What was people saying? Yep, we are going to do a printing service video for next week, so you can get more info on that. People are interested in the polishing for the resin. Yeah, I think that's a good segue into what we're prototyping. If you want to show off some of the cool prints that came back, things to look out for real. Yeah. All right. I just had to switch them around. Yeah, so you've seen the resin key caps. They look great. I wanted to do some print and place parts that I have done with the FDM printer. So I have two of these. This is a little crank that has two movable parts. So this is using that UTR 8100 resin with the spray varnish option from PCBway. And this has two little hinges here. So we have one here at the bottom and one here for the handle bit. The idea is that you connect this to a rotary encoder. It has that D-shaft shaped connector here. And let me see if I can do a little lens change here. My software will do ultra wide. And then I can go in really, really close just so you can get a good idea of what the surface finish looks like on these things. The closer you get, the more kind of detail you kind of see. Like it's not super perfect, but from a distance, from relatively normal distance, it looks totally fine, totally clear and transparent. It doesn't look like it has any of the tolerances. Yeah, so the tolerances are pretty spot on. I don't have the FDM version with me right now, but in the video I'll show how the differences are. This is a little loose here, but when this came shipped to me, this part here was actually fused. But it just took a tiny bit of force to snap it out of kind of the stuck state that it was in. But this was free floating here. And I don't know off the top of my head, but I think it's like 0.3 millimeters of clearance between all the surfaces in these joints. It's either 0.3 or 0.4. So it's free spinning, and it's for a crank, or it is a crank for a rotary encoder. The project, I think, was to kind of replicate the playdate game device. That's why we made this crank kind of thing. So that's really cool. And then the other part I have is this handle. This is a handle that I designed as a print and place thing. And it prints like that on an FDM printer. But again, there's a clearance between these hinges here. And you really can't, maybe you can, you kind of see how this piece here has a cylinder that just kind of goes through and connects to this cylinder bit and allows it to spin in place. So it's a handle. This was for the LED noodle lantern project. So there's some screw holes here. And then this big hole here is for a button. So you can turn on lantern. But yeah, it's about, I don't know, eight millimeters thick on the handle. And I think the clearance is kind of the same. So like a point four millimeter clearance. This did come free moving. It has the spray varnish on it. So it didn't fuse, which is really nice. So that's free spinning. And just a tiny bit of wiggle room here. And it has just a little bit of flex. You can see that there. I don't want to crack it. But yeah. Now the last print I'll share. Well, no, I do have another one. This is a really nice attempt at making a Lego Adibot. So in the original model, we designed it for FDM using a point two millimeter nozzle. And this was done with dual extrusion. You know, Adibot is fully, you know, take its individual pieces. His head comes off and dismantling it. But it's okay because it's a Lego mini fig. It looks fantastic. But what, so when I sent this model off, I got a warning saying that, hey, the minimum wall thickness is for models for printing in this material is point eight millimeters. And they sent me a screenshot of like the areas that needed to be thickened up. But then they also said, you can go ahead and have it printed anyway, but just know that it could break when you receive it. And I was like, yeah, go ahead, send it. Let's see it. Let's roll the dice. And they sent it to me back as a merged single body. So all of the kind of geometry for making these joints, they just got merged. So they just kind of merged it all into one part. So Adibot can't really, it's not articulating anymore. But it still came out fantastic. And this uses that, you see that tint of color here, I chose colored, a Pantone color basically for the resin. And it's the same UTR 8100 resin. But it has that little hint of color, but it's still clear. You know, here it is like that backlit. Looks really nice. And the closer you get, the more you can kind of start seeing the layer lines. But that is fantastic. Look at the little antenna bits, the claws, the lightning bolt, the holes here on the back of the legs. It came out really nice, even though it's like one unified part, it still looks fantastic. Yeah, it looks amazing. I think it has that spray varnish. Yeah, it looks amazing, right? I think it still has that spray varnish option. It just has some color. The tolerances for snapping into the Lego studs works out really well. So it holds on really tight. So that worked out. It's just that the reason why I didn't submit individual parts, because like all of these parts, it would have cost a lot of money. Like each part of it is like $12. I think that's our minimum, too, right? Yeah, I think it's like a minimum. You would start saving money if you wanted to make 100 adobots, right? And you would do 100 arms and 100 claws and 100 legs. There's too many pieces, man. So I was just like, let me just try to submit a whole adobot. It just didn't work out. I think these pieces worked out without being merged because there was just more clearance. There was just more millimeters of clearance. Like I said, like a 0.4 millimeters of clearance between these parts, they're going to come out okay. These had like a 0.2 millimeter of clearance. Maybe even 0.15 millimeters of clearance. Yeah, it's just not enough clearance for the purpose that we could press fit it in and have some sort of tolerance on them so that it doesn't freely move so we can actually pose the adobot. That's why. Exactly, yeah. Converter a little bit closer on those. Right. And again, this adobot is FDM, but with a 0.2 nozzle, the 0.2 nozzles aren't kind of, they're not, the stock nozzles for FDM printers these days are 0.4, right? Diameter. So the 0.2 is something you can get and add as an upgrade to your printer. But yeah, these are printed on the Ultimaker printers. I think the S5, right? With the dual extruder to do those two-tone colors here. But yeah, these are all kind of printed separate pieces and then snapped together. But yeah, that's a little bit of shop talk on a so many. The tenas look like they came out nice and sturdy too. That was one of our biggest fail points right there. We had to throw away a whole head just because the antennas broke off. Right, yeah. Yeah, they're very kind of fragile there, but I think they're a little bit more strong here. But yeah, there's a little bit of info and I'll cover all this in our video. The last part I'll share with you, you've seen the floppy case. This is our Etch-a-Sketch. So our Etch-a-Sketch is a Circuit Python Etch-a-Sketch project. Got an on-off switch here. And you have two potentiometers, a reset button and a toggle. And this was coded in Circuit Python by Carter Nielsen, who's on the support team for Adafruit, and allows you to flip a switch, changes the color of the TFT, and you can change the colors and the code and the resolution of the pixels that you're drawing. Right now I have it pretty chunky. It's in chunky 8-bit mode. Then you can use the reset button there to clear the print. Unlike a real Etch-a-Sketch, you can use the switch to turn off drawing and make a different shape here. And then you have just regular potentiometers to move the knobs. But it's a three-piece case, but I didn't want to print. I didn't want to have to send off the PCB mount, but this uses the SnapFit geometry that I use for my cases. It has a little button resetter. It has all these slots here. And it's pretty flexible. Like I can flex it here. Yeah, it's very flexible, right? This is 1.5 wall thickness? Yeah, this is 1.5 wall thickness, which again, their minimum wall thickness is 0.8 millimeters. So this uses the Feather M4 and the TFT Feather Wing to make this project. And there's a little battery in there, but it's cool that you can see the wires and everything in there. It's pretty clear. And there's a little bezel kind of going on here. And yeah, it's reminiscent to the 90s clear electronics. But all the tolerances were the same for FDM. I was even able to tap the screw mounts. You can kind of see the inside the resin that I use a screw tap. I was able to kind of create those threads for M3 screws. But yeah, this is a good example of like making a project case in that clear resin and just getting this really nice clear thing. Yeah, there are a couple air bubbles and stuff in the case parts, but you really can't see them. Maybe here you can kind of see it. But yeah, it's kind of hard to see. It's just a tiny little air bubble. So you're not going to get a perfect print, but it's good enough, man. It's really nice. I guess if you had your own resin printer, you could be as careful and cautious as you'd like with it. But it's nice that there's a service that will just make it for you and ship it. And this is the reset button there. You can press that. Flexible. Very flexible. Yeah, check out this project too on the Adafruit LearnGuy. I just typed in a sketch drawing toy, I think is the name of it. And yeah, same tolerances for the FDM works with like snap areas for this switch the holes. And of course, the snap snap fit joints here for the case. So yeah, that's what we got here. Couple, couple sets of difference from PCB way using the UTR 8100. Translucent. Transparent. Don is asking, does it feel like it would survive a drop? Do you order extra ones? No, I didn't. It depends on how far it's dropping. Maybe off the table, it would survive. Oh my God, spam. I don't know. It does feel flexible. So I think it would survive. I mean, yeah, I'm not going to do any like, I don't think I need to do like a strength test, like which parts are stronger. I'll leave that up to like CNC kitchen. But yeah, they don't feel tacky. They feel flexible. Yeah, I think I don't know which will be stronger PLA or resin. But yeah, that's a different thing altogether. Yeah, I should send in a iPhone case and then test dropping it from there. Yeah, yeah, it does feel like that that that iPhone kind of material just the spray varnish has like this slick feeling to it. It's not tacky. It's like kind of slick, a little bit flexible. So it does feel like an iPhone case, but it's resin, right? So and there's different types of resin, like form labs makes their own flexible resin, and they have different, different strengths and stuff. So I'm sure you can get some pretty strong resin prints using the various resin from like, you know, from like form labs. Yeah, so that's a that's a little bit of what we're going to talk about next week. And we'll have a learn guy, the thickness and all that will affect the strength of it as well. Sure. Yeah, I think this is the thickest thing I've had printed in resin. So it's like, I think eight millimeters or so. And yeah, I think it would be kind of strong. It's not designed to hold a lot of weight really. I mean, the the project is kind of it's under a pound for sure. The LED noodle lantern for this particular part. But yeah, it looks just by looking at the how many walls are in that one. Yeah, it looks like after four walls, the translucency will go away. It looks like, right? Is that what it is? Four walls? One, two, three, four for the cylinder that's in the middle. Oh, right. Yeah. Yeah. So you're saying, yeah, this bit here, right? Yeah. Yeah, you start losing it. I don't think the spray varnish made it into that joint, too. It doesn't feel rough for anything when I rotate it. But yeah, you kind of see that it's. Yeah, someone said try to drop the oil in there, some of that real butter. Yeah, I don't think it needs it. But maybe it makes it clearer, more clear when you put oil down in there. But yeah, it feels smooth, you know, doesn't feel rough at all when I, when I rotate it, you can see it kind of spins freely and kind of spins freely. So yeah, there's some things to consider. Yeah, this one's really, really good example of like it's spinning nice and free. Yeah, this is a cool print, too. It prints in place. Prints in place. A little crank for your cranky projects. Cool. So present print. Check that out next week. Yep. Yep. Yep. Yeah, for sure. Looks like we've still got some time if you want to continue on with the prototype or to community makes. I got nothing. My stuff is still printing. I got, I got some progress on this Epcot ball. I went ahead and wired up the bottom half of the sphere. I got magnets in there, by the way. So the ideas that you have two halves held together magnets. And that's the top half printed without any supports. It looks pretty decent there. So I'm using these Neopixel soft strands. And there's about, I think, 60 Neopixels in here. So I used hot glue to hot glue them to all the circles here, all the holes. So there's a lot in there. But these, these Neopixels are really nice because they have like this enamel coated kind of flexible wire, metal wire. I'm using a Feather Scorpio RP2040 board to power all the Neopixels. And then I have a little USB C breakout board going down here so I can route, reroute the USB board. I also have a DC jack there, just in case we need external power. But let me go ahead and plug it in. Just to get a look at the lights lit up. So USB C, here's all those Neopixels. Then of course, this is the bottom half. So the idea is to have some special code to do some Neopixel mapping so that we can get some, excuse me, different animations going on. So yeah, it's going to, it's going to be kind of fun. Yeah, we're going to, we're going to ask Phil B, if you can do the pixel mapping code because that's kind of out of our wheelhouse. But right now it's just running the Rainbow Circuit Python, LED animation library. So it's just doing Rambos, Rainbow Swirl. And it looks kind of nice there. But yeah, it's all 3D printed without any supports. And now we got it wired up there. Good amount of hot glue. I definitely recommend a nice hot glue gun like the Ryobi battery powered ones are really nice. But yeah, these Neopixels are pretty cool. They're very flexible. And they got that enamel coated wire. So it looks like they're not insulated, but they are. They have a little enamel coating. But yeah, cool. Very cool, very good. You know what I'm saying? I want to see that resident. Yeah, that'd be a pricey one, huh? Completely clear. So that's what we got so far. So yeah, that's insane. Brave for doing this without any supports. Yeah, we've noticed with a sphere, the printers will catch it really good. But when you're printing something like a helmet, that's where it has struggles a little bit, where it'll will have some nozzle strikes. I don't know if it's up in the shape, I guess, because it's more elongated, like near the top of the helmet. That's where I always see problems. Yeah, there was some overhanging bits that had to remove with some flush nips. But the thickness is not a lot like this is good enough where it catches itself. And because it's a geodesic sphere, it tends to kind of have some flat angles that work okay. So yeah, cool. So that is probably a couple weeks out now. Yeah, a couple weeks out. What was asking this? Is it Andy? Yes, Andy is asking. If you have any like little tests of that clear print, maybe do a see if light pipes will work with that. Yeah, that would be a couple just just, you know, yeah, standard. Yeah, I have this prop here actually on my prop wall. This is the this would be a good example. Oh, yeah, yeah. Yeah, this is the it's a prop from the TV show low key. And there are these little cylinders. Yeah, there are these cylinders that are printed in PLA. But I think it would be good to print these in resin to see how they look out. They look like hot glue sticks. Yeah, they look like hot glue sticks, but they don't fully eliminate. As you can see the top here don't get eliminated. And I mean, it's a pretty bright. It gets pretty bright, but it doesn't eliminate all the way. So I wonder if the resin print would do better. So this could be a good print. Yeah, or a good test rather for resin. Yeah, my battery is dying here. So that's why it's making a whiny noise. But yeah. Yeah, these would be good. Good test for resin. Back onto the wall. All right. Cool. Good, good stuff. All right, cool. Are we ready for community makes that? Yeah, let's go ahead and jump into community makes. Sorry, trying to do the commands here. All right. So for this week's community make we have as we just saw Lego posted one other updated X-Wing. So we would print one as well. Where am I? Ah, I'm all discombobulated. Where am I? Always left. Yeah. So yeah, this is a really cool model that was uploaded to Colts 3D. This is a free model. And it is an excellently detailed X-Wing. You can see the little R unit in here. Super simple. Super simple, but nice detail. All that stuff on there. And what's so cool is you printed one as well, but you shrunk it down and all the details remained. Yeah. There's even a little bit of extra stuff that you can print on there that I didn't add like the rocket boosters and stuff you added that. There's even a little stand. But since this is, as soon as I'm done here, the kids are probably going to break this thing up. So it doesn't matter if I have a stand or not. But yeah, this is super cool. This is pretty big. So you are going to need a pretty big printer. But again, it scales down excellent while retaining all of the detail. And this is the thing that impressed me the most, just the cockpit of all cool stuff in there. And it looks like in the posting for this, they like a mini-fig or something fits inside there. So you continue to do some play with this. And I don't know if it's super accurate or not, but it's accurate enough for me. Yeah. A little bit of paint on there. Just made it one of the blue, there's a blue team or whatever. Yeah. Prints completely up like that. So no support materials. Excellent job, man. Oh, here's the guy. 3D, who prints. Excellent detail. Yeah, let me see if I can share mine here. Yeah, let's see here. Yeah, so here's mine. I scale it down to 54%. Yours is about 100%. So it's fairly large. Let me see if I can do a little bit more closer detail. Here we go. So there's some detail there on the R unit. There's the cockpit, boosters, all the various details. And the details are actually, you can, there's a couple of different other parts. So you can print them in different colors and attach those. You can have like a bunch of a little greeblies be in different colors. That's right. Yeah. These, these boosters here are printed separately and I just snapped them in there. But yeah, 3D4U prints is the model maker there. And yeah, this is the bottom side of the print. That's what touches the better, the 3D printer. I used a brim on here and had to remove the brim. Okay, you did a brim too? Yeah. Yeah, just so the wings are so skinny. Exactly. Yeah. But man, that's some phenomenal detail. And the stand is really nice to have. But if you're playing with it, you don't need to stand. Yeah. So there's a whole thing. Oh, what's that for? It's for a string so you can dangle it. Oh man, I should have did that. Oh funny. Yeah. I didn't even notice that hole until you mentioned it. There's so much detail. Well, it's in the photo thing. Yeah, there's some details, right? It's in the photos, which, oh yeah, let me show you that. Here it is. So it's on Colts 3D. Oh, look at that, Jedi survivor. What a great ad. I actually really want to play that game. It looks really good. Yeah. So here's a quick little video with the little string. I completely missed that. Yeah. Here are all the various pieces. There you go. So you can print it in kind of this multicolor print. Here's a really nice example of just how many different colors you can have. It looks really good. I really like the black tone. Here's a really nice kind of shiny copper with that gold, like super dope. Different one, black and gray, subtle. So many color schemes you could do on this. Yeah. They do the filament swap here. That's really good. That's what that is. So you go all out with the detail on this one. You can, a lot of planning on getting all those colors that's what you want. Yeah. No supports, man. Very, very nice. You can see where the cylinders are a little bit flat at the bottom here, just so they print what that is for. That is the best way to print a cylinder though. That's a strong render of it. Yeah. So it's excellent. And again, the designer put his handle on the print, which is always a good kind of water marker of your stuff. But they go by Dan Der Drucker. Dan Der Drucker is their username here called 3D. Looks like he was a part of a bad batch since he's a survivor. He just looked like a bad batch. Yeah, that's funny. So yeah, fantastic model. Again, free, free to download. So check it out. Yeah. Again, awesome. And I think came right off on the bed, the bed plate right on the Declan's hands. That's funny. He was waiting for it. You gotta make another one for Gavin. Oh, the one that we use is the marble from, oh geez. Who is it? A shiny? I'm using, no, I'm just using Silver PLA Pro from Matterhackers. They have their own brand. I like it. It takes color really well. So here are the LED colors. So if you have some backlighting, it looks really dope in that color there. So it reflects light pretty good. And yeah, it's just Silver PLA Pro, I think, or PLA Build series, whatever Matterhackers calls it. It's good filament. I like it. Yeah, they ship pretty quick here in the States. And yeah, I'm also using this filament on the Epcot ball, because it's just to go all around Silver PLA. Yeah, has a nice shine. It's funny how wobbly it is. Kind of adds to the stand effect. Star Wars Celebration Week, yes. We'll have some more Star Wars projects next week as well. Yeah. Yeah, I might even get that Lego kit that just came out. It looks cool. It looks so good. Cool. So check it out. These are not in the back. They were shown off with blasters. Yeah, right. Maybe cool. That's a new pixels to it. Okay. Continue on to the community makes. We got a couple of really cool makes this week. Yeah, just a handful. Just a couple. So first up, we have the magnetic USB tips holder. This is a little simple print for our USB cables that have these swappable tips. They're magnetic. And I had a lot of them, so I needed a little way to hold them all together. So we have a make here from Al Pierce one on printables.com. They printed it out in this nice purple filament. And they've heard of two of them because they have a lot of tips more than I do. It's a parametric design. So if you want to modify it and add more slots to it, you can do that or just print multiple of them. And they said a super convenient print. So glad it worked out. Yeah, just kind of snaps in and holds it in place so they don't fall out. Otherwise, they fall up because they're magnets, right? They have magnetic ends. All right. The next one is a nice timely one. This was posted by Chu Nuuk on Thingiverse. This is our Mario Boo planter. It's inspired by the Super Mario Brothers, the ghost. You can paint the facial details. And they have a nice little arrangement of... Oh, wow. Yeah. It looks awesome. It looks like it just ringed. You can see the water droplets on there. They've got a piranha plant, the turtle shell with the spikes, a ba-bomb, omba-bomb, whatever it's called. A couple different mushrooms, and a little Mario Boo. Nice addition to their collection. Yeah, super cool, right? Yeah, I kind of look at the shell, but just the way that all the parts are. It's like, oh man, that's too much stuff, right? For a time-lock anyway, it'll look more weird. Okay. Cool. Yep. Lots of Mario-inspired prints with the whole movie coming out, right? I think it came out either today or the next week. Yeah. Yeah, it looks great. Yeah. I don't want to see it. And then the last print, guess what? Another Boo. This was posted up by Raspberry, and they printed it in white PLA, and they said it came out good in 0.2 millimeter layer height. And yeah, it looks good. Good paint job. Just paint the facial details in those two colors, red and black. Red for the tongue, black for the eye, mouth, and eyebrows. It's scalable. You can print it bigger, smaller. Lots of folks have made it. And yeah. I think you designed this one Pedro in Maya or something in 2012. But yeah, it has a little drain hole in the bottom there. Another drain hole. Yeah, at the bottom bottom. Well, you can modify it. Very cool. Nice little tail there for the... I don't remember seeing them in any of the trailers, so I don't even know if they're in the movie. Yeah. I don't know. Maybe the Luigi's Mansion section of the movie there. Yeah. Oh, they have the Luigi's Mansion section? Maybe. I haven't seen it. I think it came out today, right? I don't know. Yesterday maybe? Yeah, the reviews are real. Yeah, of course they're... Cool. We have a make here from DJ Devin. We've got an Alphanumeric backpack enclosure. It's just in. Nice. Yeah, it's using the Stemma QT 14-segment displays. That's awesome. Oh, wow, look at that bag. It looks great. The concentric pattern. That's dope. I might make this. This looks really good. I'm good for like a clock and stuff. Cool. Very cool. Nice work. I wonder if that's a gel. Is that like a reflective acrylic bit? Yeah, it's a one-way mirror. That's very cool. It's a good way to do it, because you get like this really nice... When the LEDs are off, you get like this mirror effect. Super cool. Thanks for sharing that, Devin. Yeah, that's some little pieces of mirror that I've been looking to do something with. A good one, yeah. Yeah, cool. Yeah, that's pretty nice. What am I going to do with it? Oh, that 3D scanner thing. I heard it was getting the... What is it? The thing from the front part of the camera. Right. Okay, cool. Before we go, if you want to pick up some stuff, support Adafruit and your Maker Habit, 10% off your order with Hexpad. We'll have another one tonight and tomorrow with JP's workshop. So you can check this out. But yeah, next week, another more resin prints. Yeah. Again, don't forget to check out JP's guide if you want to make a mini controller. Inspired by bees. All right. We invite you to come on show and tell. Yeah, yeah. We invite you to come on show and tell tonight. It's going to be hosted by Mr. and Mrs. Lady Ada. They are back and then Ask an Engineer is shortly after that. So at 7.30 p.m. Eastern time is show and tell. 8 p.m. Eastern time is Ask an Engineer. So that's going to do it. Thank you, everybody, for tuning in until next week. Don't forget to make a great day. Bye, folks.