 Greetings to the third video tutorial, today it will be restoring and gravings and riveting. After using patty and graving is hardly visible and with irregular depth. I use razor saw for restoring lines, the lines are nicely highlighted and deepened with gentle strokes. Another option is to use a burrin, which is designated for this purpose, but I use it only for finishing the lines. If the line is only covered with surfacer, then there is no problem to engrave by guesstimate. Otherwise I must use a masking tape that guides me and helps me to keep straight lines. It is easier and safer to use razor saw for leading edges of the wings. Using burrin is not advised, because you must apply too much pressure and it could rupture the bonded joint. If I restore engravings sealed with patty, then I have to correctly measure the distances, since it is necessary to pay attention to symmetry with other half of the wing, where engravings are already indicated. And now riveting. It is important to find good documentation so called riveting drawings or simply blueprints. You can find them in the hobby magazines or often on the internet too. And now I will show you how to find some blueprints on the internet. The easiest way is to enter proper keywords into Google and then choose the settings for large size, black and white pictures. You don't find anything reasonable when you can try a Russian website Erwar.ru. Unfortunately it is only in Russian language, but you can simply find your model in the following list. And now back to the riveting. It is important to have a fine riveting wheel. The one with wooden handle is made by Dosek. The metal one by your rivet R. Another option is makeshift riveting wheel made from a cog wheel taken from old watch. I know that some pro-hobbies can make riveting freehand and straight, but I prefer to measure everything with ruler and mark with a pencil. The masking tape will help me again in achieving straight lines. I do not apply too much pressure on the wheel because once again it threatens to rupture the bonded joints. Some hobbyists prefer to make rivets before spraying model with surfacer, but personally I don't like it. I usually clean depressions and impurities with sandpaper after applying surfacer, so after one or two layers of surfacer there will be no visible rivets anymore. Therefore I prefer to create rivets just before the model is ready for painting. When I am done I simply erase the marks with a rubber. If you push on the rivet wheel too much you will create protrusions above the aircraft surface, which is not entirely correct. It is suitable to clean them with sandpaper. Afterwards you can simply blow away the dust with a pressurized air from airbrush. I can usually manage to create rivets only on small areas, but I prefer to draw pencil line to keep the right direction anyway. If I made a crooked line then I would have too much extra work of patting and sanding. If you still think that riveting is unnecessary then here is a difference between two wings. I think that the wing with handmade riveting looks more realistic and makes the overall impression much better. It does not hurt to mark complicated rivet lines with a pencil. During riveting I discovered that the kit lacks additional armor plates, so I decided to create them from plastic boards. It is very time consuming to create riveting on the whole model, but the result is worth it. Of course it requires some practice and experience. Therefore if you are not satisfied with your work at the first, then don't give up. Next time it will be certainly better and better.