 Today we install auto bed leveling on the Ender 3 V2. My name's Jim and this is The Edge of Tech. What's up everybody? Like I said, today we're going to walk through the process of installing this TH3D EasyABL Auto Bed Leveling System on the Ender 3 V2. It's actually not that bad. I'm going to walk you step by step through the process. We're going to go through everything from getting the firmware to loading the firmware to installing the probe and configuring the probe and then in the end we run a test print. Now I really like my Ender 3 V2 and I've done other videos and you can find those right here on the Ender 3 V2 but I haven't done an auto bed leveling video and it's time to do that today. Let's go. I'm proud to say this video is sponsored by THANGS. THANGS is the fastest growing 3D community with over 2 million available models already. THANGS is a super responsive website and you can find a ton of really cool models on THANGS. Actually, if you go up to the search bar and type in Minijim, the Edge of Tech Minijim will pop up. You can download that and print it right at home yourself. Thank you so much THANGS for your sponsorship. Click the link in the description below. It'll take you straight to THANGS and you can check them out from there. So what we want to do first is jump into Firmware.TH3DStudio.com which actually brings us to this page and if we scroll down we see the Unified 2 firmware. A little bit further down we find Creality and then we can look for what printer we're going to use. In our case we're going to do the Ender 3 V2 so we're going to click on this one right here. This will be all the instruction we're going to go through today but we're going to try to make it a little bit faster and easier on the video here. So the first thing we want to do is download the Unified firmware which is right here. So I'm just going to click it and it's going to download in the background. Something we talked about before and I want to bring up again you have to upgrade the screen first. It says that right here as well. So we're going to go through that and then upgrade the board. I'm going to show you how to put your SD card in and get it formatted for the firmware update for the screen and then we're going to use a second SD card for the firmware for the board itself. So it's going to tell you that you always want to update the screen first. Also something you need to have is VS Code installed and there's an installation guide right here and it walks you through everything you need to know. VS Code is the program you're going to open the configuration in and then it'll compile the firmware from there. So VS Code needs to be installed that's right here. It's super simple. Also it's down below in the instructions below. It'll tell you how to do that as well. For this video I'm going to assume that you guys have VS Code or before you go any further jump into that installation guide. The link will be in the description of the video and we'll make it happen. Then what we want to do is open up our area where we just downloaded the firmware. I've already downloaded a couple times doing this video. We're going to open up that firmware and right away you'll see something called LCD Firmware and this is for the Ender 3v2. We're going to click into it. Right away you'll see this LCD update. Right click and extract all. That'll say you know where do you want to extract it. If you leave that default it'll extract it right to this folder. Hit that extract button and you'll get this folder here. Now this specific folder the dwin underscore set folder has to be put on a specially formatted SD card and we're going to do that right now. So you want to take a micro SD card that came with the printer is fine and pop it into the computer. Now what we're going to do is we're going to delete the contents of this SD card. If you have anything on there that you want to save this is your time to save it off now. We have to format this card and it's going to lose everything so if you need to save everything off you want to do that right now. In this case there's just a firmware and I'm not worried about it so we're going to keep rocking. I'm going to go down here to where that volume is. In this case it says it's new volume F. I'm going to right click and format. We format it with an allocation unit size of 4096 bytes. It's very important that you do that. I've tried it other ways with hit or miss results and if I do it 4096 I have the best results. Fat 32 4096 bytes. We'll do a quick format and just hit start. There you go. Once it's done it'll pop itself back up. We'll hit okay and we can close this. So now what we need to do is this is our dwind underscore set folder. We're going to right click the whole folder. We're going to copy it. We're going to go into that volume we just created and we're going to paste it. At this point your screen firmware SD card is good to go. We want to right click on that and eject and now you're good to go with your screen firmware SD card and we're going to jump onto that in just a minute. What we need to do is open our VS program here and open our firmware. So we go to file open a whole folder then you want to go to wherever you're downloaded your firmware and it's in downloads in my case. We're going to double click. We're going to go to firmware and this is everything so I'm going to go back one. So you just want to go to downloads open up your firmware click on and highlight the folder called firmware. You don't have to go any further than that and just hit select folder. What that's going to do is put it here in the left side. If you open up that left side and you come down here to Marlin and open that up you'll find something called configuration.h. Now in configuration.h this is where we actually configure our firmware. So when you first open this up everything will be just like this kind of green color. What we need to do is figure out which printer we're going to use the firmware for and then go ahead and compile the firmware for that board. In my case I have the Ender 3 v2 and I have a 422 board. I'm going to click right here. We're going to go backwards and uncomment those two wax out. So when you uncomment something out you're just deleting the two wax like this. You're just going to delete them out like that. You'll see it works. This will turn into like a pink and a blue color there. So in our case I have the Ender 3 version 422 board. The best way to find out which board you have is to actually just open up the case and look at the board directly. I know mine is a 422 board because I've done that in the past. I don't remember if I showed that in the rest of this video but I do know that you need to figure that out before you go any further. If you have a newer one it's probably a 427 board but you want to make sure open up the control board look inside at your board and just make sure it says 422 or 427 on the board. Once you get this far uncomment that out and in this case we're going to add that easy ABL to ours. So I'm going to scroll down here a little bit further and you'll find right here easy ABL probe mounts. I'm going to go down to the Ender 3 V2 OEM and just uncomment that out as well. Now if you do not have an easy ABL then leave that commented in and you don't have to do anything else all we're going to do is compile. If you do have an easy ABL you want to uncomment this out like this and then all you have to do is come down here to the checkbox hit that button and it'll start compiling your firmware. Depending on the speed of your computer this can take maybe five six ten minutes. It really depends on how fast your computer is. I don't have too bad of a computer this only usually takes a couple minutes for me. So once it's done you'll see right down here at the bottom of the screen that it was a success and we need to go find that firmware to put it on an SD card. To find the firmware we just compiled go up to the left side here you can minimize that Marlin folder there and you want to drop down the PIO folder right here. You want to click into builds and then you'll see this one right here which is STM32 whatever. You want to right click that and reveal in explore. That'll bring up your file explorer here with the location that it saved your firmware in. You want to double click on it and chances are if this is the first time you've done this you'll only have one but we're looking for a dot bin firmware. The one we just did is actually this one right here. Chances are if you haven't done this a bunch like me you'll only have one in there. So you want to right click this bin folder here make sure it's the correct one if you have multiple hit copy. You want to plug in a new SD card and paste it right onto the card and that's just like I showed you with the other one with the exception of you don't have to format it in 4,096 bytes it can be anything actually you could do the screen and then pop the SD card back in and put this firmware on it and then to do the board if you really wanted to if you only have one SD card but all you have to do is copy put this actual bin folder right directly on that SD card and then eject your SD card and pull it out and that's it. Now what we do is go from here to the printer and we're going to show you how to get started on installing the screen and the board firmware on the printer. Let's do it. Now it's time to upgrade the firmware on the screen we have to do that first. So with the printer unplugged and off we're going to pop up the screen and we're going to flip it around like this. We're going to pull the little cable out just like that and we need to take these four bolts out right here. So once we got it flipped over we got the cable out we're going to grab our Allen wrench and we're going to take these out. Now I'm using the TH3D tool kit that they sell it is on sale now for like 12.99 at the time of this but you can use the Allen wrench that came with the kit as well. This is just a 2.5 bit I believe. Once you get it off and your bolts are out go ahead and pop off that back you might have to take a small flathead and and pop up one side but it will come out. So what we're going to do next is take a SD card and it goes in this slot right here. I'm going to zoom in and show you that when we put it in there but there's just a metal piece right here that's where your SD card goes and it's going to slide in right here. So once you have the back off grab your SD card and it's going to go in this slot like we talked about you push it until it springs just like that it locks in and now what we need to do is plug it into the printer. Once your SD card is in you want to plug in your cable your ribbon cable right here then you want to spin the screen around so you see it like that and we're going to turn on the printer. So when we turn it on it should go from black to orange and once we should see orange here in a second all right there's blue blue is good there's orange. Okay so after about 30 seconds of orange I want to give it a minute but after the 30 seconds of orange you can turn your printer back off and then go to the next step. So it's been about one minute I'm going to flip the printer off it'll turn off I need to take the SD card out so we'll press the button and eject it and pull that SD card out and then before I put anything back together I'm going to spin the screen around one more time and just fire the printer back on to make sure it all worked so I'll turn the printer back on and on the screen now we have TH3D Marlin that's how you know this works it'll have that TH3D and the Marlin splash screen so now our screen is ready so before we upgrade the printer turn the printer off flip the screen back over take the ribbon cable out and install your back panel back on with those four screws then put your ribbon cable back on slide the screen back on the mount like it came off and then we'll move on to upgrading the printer. Now to update the machine firmware we just take our SD card and we stick it in we got the SD card in I turned the TH3D printer on and now we should see it go from black to the splash screen here and then once it's complete as you see there we go it'll go to the main screen once it all loads up so you want to scroll over to control scroll down to info then look at the firmware line here that says TH3D Unified Firmware 2.27 now in this case at the time of the filming this is the newest one 2.27 in your case it could be much newer I know Tim's working on a new release now so that'll change shortly but right now it's 2.27 we are good to go so what we need to do now after we load a new firmware is restore the eProm and we can do that from the control panel I believe by going to control scroll down to restore defaults and hit that button now that should have reset your eProm just like that you hear the button and we should be good to go now if not I'm going to put in the description below the Marlin commands if you want to hook it up to a computer and use Octoprint or anything like that to connect I'll give you the Marlin commands to reset your eProm from there as well but in this case I went to restore defaults hit that button and we should be golden and that's it that's all we have to do to do the firmware on the Ender 3v2 including the screen all right to get started installing the EasyABL on the Ender 3v2 what we need to do is start with these parts now this here is the EasyABL it comes with zip ties a little screwdriver I actually printed the mount here but you can order one from them that looks like this one right here but I actually wanted to go blue today so I printed this one in an HP PLA also it comes with a box and some wire and for this build I'm actually going to go the super easy way and I actually bought the power plug for it now you can use the included wire and wire this right to your power supply and that's a pretty easy thing to do but in this case I'm actually going to show you the easiest thing to do and that's just use this power adapter once we get it plugged in it makes it very simple the only downside to it is that you need this extra power plugged in at all times with your printer other than that it makes this install very very easy you don't even have to open the control board to do it let's get this going we're going to start by installing our mount so to get this started what we want to do is get this bolt out right here now this is the bolt that holds the wheel on so what we need to do is grab and yes I started loosening it already but we need to grab the back of this with a pliers then we need to take that out so I'm going to use this here squeeze the back of it and I already broke it loose so I'm going to use the long side of my allen wrench and we're going to take this screw out now it's very important that you be careful with this and watch now it's very important that you be careful with this geez okay so once you have the back grabbed with your pliers unscrew the front and be very careful because once it gets to the end your bolt is going to fall out like that so I take the bolt or take my nut and I'm going to put it down by the table and then I'm going to grab my bolt and pull it out just like this now there is a spacer back here that's hard to see there is a spacer back here that you need to remember to put back in as well to put it all back together grab your bracket and push your bolt through there we're going to push it through the hole just a little bit we're going to take the spacer that came out of the back and push that in then the wheel push the wheel in then your lock nut and we're going to start the lock nut here once we get that started I'm going to grab it with the pliers like we did before and I'm going to use the long side of my allen wrench to get it tightened here you might need to keep that down and I'm just going to tighten this in but you don't want to make you want to make sure it's not too tight so this flops around but you also don't want your wheel too tight as well so once you get it on there just check your wheel make sure you're not overly tight that's perfect it works now if you push this up it probably will move up that means I probably could go a little bit tighter so I'm going to I'm going to grab the long side I'm using the long side because I don't want to over tighten so I'm going to clamp that down there I'm going to hold this in place there we go so now let's check not too tight and this is much better it's not moving that's what we want to see now it's time to put our easy abl on what we need to do is take off this bottom nut here like that and then we need to actually screw this way up because it needs to go a good distance to the bottom here it should only it should be about two millimeters above your nozzle if I remember right what we want to do is screw it way up so we can stick it through like this and it's probably even going to come farther than that so I'm going to leave it about right there I like to go a little bit further up here and then adjust it down if I have to we are pretty close right there we'll give it a couple more threads just because so I'm going to take this nut and thread it on just enough for the bottom of the easy abl to be out but I don't want to go too far on I'm going to leave it just like that now what we need to do is just run the cabling now what we have is this loop here of cable I'm untwisting the cable ties and taking them off quick and now it's time to start installing our cable here so the first thing we want to do is create a loop and we want to create this loop here so this never gets snagged and it says that right in the manual but you want to create this loop here so it never strains this area up here once you get your loop created then use your first zip tie and I like to go around the cabling not around the boat and tube there and I'm just going to zip tie it to the cabling now you could splice into the cable management here if you really want to I'm not going to do that but you can if you want to so once we have our nice little loop here and we got our first cable tie on here then we just want to run this back and down the side of the cable management here so it's nicely cable tied and it doesn't get in the way so I'm going to put probably two or three more zip ties and just run it along this cable management here along the back and I'll be right back now we have our zip ties along here I did not zip tie around the boat and tube that was the one that was already there but you can see the ones I did are sticking out I'm going to grab my flush cutters and just cut these off so they're nice and flush and look nice and they don't cut anybody they don't get hung up on anything once all those are cut off and look good we're going to move on to the control box hey everybody if you're getting value out of the video today please do me a favor hit that like button right now I really appreciate it and it really helps the video get pushed further throughout the community on YouTube thanks again and now back to it so I'm on the side of the printer now this is our ZN stop right here I'm just going to unplug that right here and I'm going to grab our allen wrench and we are going to take the ZN stop off we will no longer need the ZN stop now I'm going to using the allen wrench that came with the kit once it's loose I'm just going to spin it off with both of those screws now there is t-nuts and we're going to use the t-nuts going forward so don't forget to get the t-nut out there we go now once you have your ZN stop off right here you want to take the bolts out and the t-nuts and set your ZN stop aside take the control box next and open it up and this is our ZN stop wire and that's going to plug directly into the control box down there super easy so you're going to plug that in carefully and push it in so it's nice and tight in there then you're going to route that out the side and this is going to tell you about where you can mount this now you can mount it forward if you want I'm going to mount mine about right there I think that'll be perfect and nicely mounted on the side of the machine so to mount it you can see there's three holes right here pick the hole that suits you I'm going to do it in the top one so it's nice and flush like this grab the mounting hardware that came from your ZN stop and you might have to thread it in but that's okay so thread it into the case there do that for the front and the back and then we're going to use the t-nuts that it came with to lock it into the side rail right here so let me get this threaded let me get the t-nuts on and I'll be right back so I got them threaded I got the t-nuts on like this I'm going to turn them both kind of sideways there and I'm going to pop them into the extrusion where I want them now you can mount this anywhere you want remember this cable has to be able to come out like this because there's a cover that goes on here so you make sure the cable comes out of the little hole there but I'm going to go about right there I'm going to use my allen wrench and just spin it in so those t-nuts lock in and then I'm going to do that for both sides lock these things in with the t-nuts once it's locked in I'll go on to the next step now we have it mounted here our ZN stop is right here and it's going to go there's a little groove that that's going to sit in really nicely now the next thing I want to do is plug in my easy ABL cord that comes with it and that really just plugs in just like that now this is good to go here I'm not going to put the cover on and I'm going to show you why in a little bit here but don't put the cover on yet the only thing we have to do now is power this thing up now you can use like I mentioned earlier this wire right here you can run it from here down into this hole and straight to your power supply and it'll run it perfectly in this case I wanted to show an even easier way so I'm going to use this power supply here all we're going to do when we're ready is plug it into the top we're going to plug this into the wall and that's it at this point we can move on to adjusting the easy ABL so as you notice I actually grabbed the wrong mount I printed this blue one I wanted to use and I accidentally put the black one on in the heat of the moment filming this video so I'm probably going to swap that out but we don't have to do that right now now what we want to do is lower our gantry uh so we're going to do that now we're just going to do this and lower the gantry down I'm going to push my bed back and kind of move this over here to the center like that and I'm going to come pretty close now I'm going to take a wrench that came with a creality kit and I'm going to set it right down like this and then I'm going to lower the gantry down just so the nozzle just touches the bed so it's going to be hard to see the nozzle underneath there but the wrench is going to be underneath the easy abl just like that and I'm just going to slowly bring this down just until the nozzle touches the bed right there so that's where we want our easy abl to sit now this needs to sit flush on here so I actually need to come down a little bit on our mount so I'm just going to loosen that up and let it sit just like that and I'm going to make it sure it's sitting kind of flat so once it is flat on the wrench like this that should be about right now let's bring this up and we're going to tighten this bottom one in so it doesn't move anymore we really got to bring that up quite far so when I'm in here like that I'm going to bring this ring up all the way to about the bottom until I can hold it with two hands here so then what you want to do is make sure you're sitting flush and you want to make sure it's straight and flush down here you can't be crooked or anything like that it needs to be perfectly straight up and down then you want to bring your bottom nut up to about right there about three threads over then screw your top nut down so it's about right there so the top nut is up against our mount here then I'm going to hold and I'm going to screw this bottom one in and tighten them kind of hard to see so if you did this right there'll be it'll be sitting flush on this wrench there'll be no wiggle room here I mean I can lift it up physically if I really pull on it but no one's going to be pulling on that while the machine's working and that'll be about perfect right there now I'm going to spin mine just a little to keep that loop intact up the top there just like that so we have our sensor just touching and we're going to go on to the next step now what we're going to do is take our power adapter plug it into the easy abl and then I'm going to plug it into my power just like that now the little light came on here and I know that there's power to the easy abl so I'm going to fire the machine on here I'm going to raise this up a little bit I'm going to turn the machine on now the machine's on and I'm going to put my wrench underneath the nozzle like that I'm going to go to prepare disable stepper and we're going to slowly bring the nozzle down until it hits that wrench very very very slightly so just touches the wrench now we need to adjust our easy abl there's a red light on right now and there's a little screw hole right in the side here if I put my little screwdriver that came with it in there and I'm going to unscrew it until it turns green so the red light went off in this case there's no green light so the red light went off and I'm going to slightly screw it now screw it now just a little bit until the light comes on then I'm going to back it off just a hair and just just enough where that light comes on and this is very very small turns I mean like just barely turning it all right so I'm confident that I've now set the easy abl you see the red light is on now here and that's going to trigger at about four millimeters above the bed oh I was wrong there's actually a green light on this side I apologize I didn't see that but I thought there was a green light that then I was standing on this side and didn't see it so there's actually a green light right here which is kind of hard to see from this camera angle and a red light here so now if I pull our wrench out and I bring this down you'll see it trigger there and stop triggering here so we should be calibrated right about there the next thing we need to do is bring this up and make sure it's going to home correctly so I'm going to bring this up quite a bit here and we'll be right back now we got everything up off the bed just in case we don't want to crash anywhere we need to auto home and make sure that this triggers the correct direction so I'm going to go to prepare auto home and it's going to raise a little it's going to go to the side it's going to stop and then what I'm going to do is just put my finger here and it's not stopping so that is not a good sign I'm going to shut the printer off and I'm going to show you how we fix that okay so it turns out I just had a loose wire in this case if I go to prepare auto home you'll see everything move it'll come towards us then it'll go away and if you stick your finger under it'll stop just like that that's what you want to see now if it is backwards if it is doing this so if you go to auto home it auto homes like this and it homes and it doesn't stop like that there's a little black switch that you have to flip and let me show you that now so if it's not triggering or if it's going up it's triggering backwards flip that little black switch in my case I just had my Z wasn't pushed in all the way but if it's not triggering flip that switch and you should be good now we're going to auto home again and make sure and then we're on to the next step so here we go we'll go to prepare auto home it'll do its thing we just want to make sure we're triggering on that Z you don't want it to crash so that's perfect now I'm going to let it go all the way down and just make sure everything's good we know it's not going to crash into the bed which is great and then right after this we're going to set our Z offset and then we're done perfect now that we know we're good there I'm going to take my case and put the cover on it so make sure your wire is down in that little opening lock it closed and you're good to go then we have these cables to worry about what you want to do is raise your gantry all the way up when we're ready make sure that this can reach everything and then I'm just going to take some cable ties and tie that up but I want to make sure when we're done I can raise this all the way up and it's going to reach we don't want this being too tight and being pulled so we'll do that at the end not a big deal I'm just going to tell you to do it now like I said grab a couple zip ties raise your gantry all the way up and just make sure you zip tie this when the gantry is all the way up so this is as far as it needs to stretch so the next thing we need to do is set the Z offset and to do that I'm going to try to show you the screen and then you can kind of see the printer here in the side view but what we want to do is go to prepare here which is the second box scroll down to auto home and let the printer auto home itself real quick so this only takes a couple seconds here it's pretty fast and it is already auto home right there then if we go back here and then go to prepare move and right here under move z it's kind of hard to see but that says 5.0 what we need to do is click on that and bring it back down to zero so move Z should be zero where it's highlighted right here then hit the button and the printer will drop down to that point now we're going to go back then we're going to go set to the Z offset right here so I'm going to throw a piece of paper under here so you guys can see that and what we're going to do is just dial this down till the paper starts grabbing on the hot end here and dialing it down will be turning it counterclockwise like this and it should be somewhere right around two millimeters so two millimeters for me is just a little bit high 2.05 2.07 is grabbing pretty nicely right there 2.10 is too much and so you can really see just how much of a fine tune you can do on this so I'm going to do 2.06 which is right there I think that's a really nice grab actually I think I'm going to set on 2.08 right there so then you're going to hit the button once you hit the button it'll lock in your Z offset of negative 2.08 in my case it's nice grab on that paper you want to go to back control and then scroll down to store settings it should make a beep sound just like that then let's go back let's go prepare auto home again let the printer home itself and it's home itself then we're going to go up here to move one more time go to move Z and it set it five again 5.0 but now if we take our paper and we put it underneath here and we click on move and we bring that back down to zero we should oh we got to hit the button now you should be right where you were when we left off at that negative 2.08 so that'll tell us when the move Z is at zero and this is grabbing your paper now your Z offset is now set you're ready to print all right so the last thing I want to do is show you how it should react when you have the easy ABL on it does the bed leveling and then once it's going I want to show you that live Z adjust so I actually sliced a test for this bed and it came from the TH3D firmware files I'm just going to print it and we're going to let it go here if everything is right it should do a home and then it should probe the bed and once it starts printing we'll be back okay so it's going to come down now it's going to do a purge line and then it's going to start the outside so it's purging now you can see a little bit of filament was on there like that and once it starts on the menu here you have a tune button so if you press tune you scroll down to Z offset or baby step it should say 2.08 and that's the baby step or the Z offset we gave it already now if you look at your print and just see how it's going you can move it up or down and this looks like it's pretty good so far but you can move it up or down by clicking that and turning clockwise here we'll move it up turning counterclockwise we'll move it down and you can maybe dial in your Z offset a little better while it's printing now don't forget if you do make a change you have to click the button to actually make that change so if you turn it up or turn it down you have to click the button before the printer will actually move in a second here we're going to do one more loop and then we're going to do a squares and we're going to see how that goes i'm probably going to put this in time lapse mode again so we can speed it up a little bit but in a second you're going to see the squares being printed and then we'll check the squares out in the end but this is a very important step just to dial in your Z offset make sure your baby stepping is good and don't forget you can do this on any print that you start so in my case this was already a level bed i had this leveled before but you always want to make sure your bed is level no matter what if you're using abl or not if you want to you could do solid mounts is which and that's what i'm going to be swapping this to so then you put them in you screw your wheels up and you don't have to worry about leveling your bed again but in this case i have wheels i made sure we're leveled before we started something else to throw in there so right now it's going to do the th3d logo in the center it's going to go around and do some outsides and then fill them in we're going to jump in the time lapse and we'll be back when it's done all right as you can see it printed the logo in the center and four test squares here along with the two outlines of the skirt and i think it went well i think i probably need to adjust it a little bit in the center here it's a little bit tight it's dragging right here but and maybe a hair right here which tells me maybe my bed's not level to start with but those solid mounts will definitely help with this again you need to level your bed normally before you start any of this and make sure you have good tension on your spring so it won't change then the probe will be much better and more accurate otherwise grab some solid mounts throw them under there and then you won't have to level anymore but in this case this is definitely not bad it's all here it looks pretty nice mostly through here maybe a little dragging through the center which tells me this is probably raised a little bit in the center here uh other than that test print looks great and that's it we are completely done installing the easy a bl on the ender 3 v2 and testing it with a test pattern well that's it we've successfully installed the th3d easy a bl and new firmware on this ender 3 v2 it actually wasn't too bad in reality it probably only takes maybe 20 minutes to 30 minutes it's not bad at all especially if you use the fast way we use today what i mean by that is there's two ways to wire your easy a bl there's a direct wire kit which they give you the wires for and you can wire it straight to your power supply that is normally how i do it but for this video i actually use the power adapter using this power adapter you don't have to open the control panel you don't have to open any wires you don't have to cut any wires all you do is plug your zn stop into it you plug your sensor into it and you plug this into it and into an outlet and that's it there's no opening anything else and this is the simplest method of installing the easy a bl now the only downfall i found with this is that you have two plugs now to power up you need this one plugged in to the control box and then you need your power plugged into the wall as well for the printer now when you unplug or you turn off your printer you're probably going to want to unplug this as well maybe just throw it on a power strip flip the toggle on your power strip and call it a day the next thing i want to bring up is the starting g code the starting g code will need to be changed when you put any auto bed leveling on a printer in the description below you'll find a link and you can go there and you can find the starting and ending g code for the ender three v2 that i use with my a bl also i reached out to tim and he said i could use this test pattern so i sliced it for you guys in prusa slicer and specifically for the ender three v2 if you're going to use it for that like this video is intended check out the same link in the description and you can find an already sliced g code file all you have to do is throw it on your sd card pop it in your printer and hit print and it'll give you this print that we did on the video today at this point let me know in the description below do you guys use a bl do you want to use a bl have you ever installed a bl let me know below do you use an easy a bl or bl touch that'd be interesting too i'll be watching the comments i'm always curious what you guys are using and if you've installed it as well overall i really like the easy a bl i have it on a few machines you've probably seen a couple videos in the past where we've installed it as well i personally like it better than the bl touch that's my personal preference but i really think it performs well it installs very easy like you saw today and i just think it's a very very good product and it supports a small business if you're looking for an easy a bl there'll be a link in the description below where you can go and find the kit you can find the solid bed mounts if you want to throw those on there and also there'll be a discount code t e o t five that runs until august of 2021 that you can throw in in your cart and get five percent discount and it helps the channel out too because that's an affiliate code so check that all out it's in the description below i really hope you guys learned something today and as always keep printing