 Bonjour et bienvenue, this is La Modélise and welcome back again to my channel. In today's tutorial, we'll be recreating the Jacques Mousse La Mour PuffSleeve crop top. This collection has a romantic and sensual vibe, which is the characteristic of Simon Jacques Mousse design aesthetic. Before we start, let's take a closer look at the details of this garment. Cropped until the under bust. The top is cut until the under bust, which result to exposure of the abdomen or upper torso. So the neckline is square, and there is also a 4 eighths inch thick binding at the neckline. Pivoted bust dart. The bust dart is pivoted, giving it a faux French dart look. Exaggerated puff sleeves. For this design, the puff sleeve is intricately pleated, adding a sophisticated touch. However, since we are creating a dupe, a gathered puff sleeve is still a stylish choice. And lastly, back design. The back design is simple. While the original design featured back darts, we're opting to convert them into gathers, enhancing the tightness of the top at the under bust. To start off, I will use my basic torso block or sloper, and I will trace only until the waistline. So let's work on the front bodice first, since this will require a lot of contouring. First, I will transfer half of the value of my second dart to my first dart. To do this, get the measurement of your second dart if you have one, and transfer half of the value to the first dart and spread equally. And draw in the new dart until the bust point. And from the side seam at waist, mark in one centimeter or 3 eighths of an inch. From this mark, square in a slant line towards the underarm point. And disregard or erase the second dart. For the back, there will be no transferring of the dart value. Just erase the second dart, only if you have one, and we will use the back pattern as is. Next, from the bust point, I will draw in my bust radius plus 2 eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. And square in the under bust line, same value with your bust radius. From the new dart at under bust, mark out 2 eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter each side. And from these marks, square in slant lines toward the bust point. From the bust line near center front, mark up 2 to 8 inches or 5.7 centimeters. And square a line until center front and shoulder bust dart. From this line at center front, mark in 1 eighths of an inch or 0.3 centimeter. From this mark, draw in a slant line until the under bust line. Next, I will redraw my bust dart until the bust point. Next, slash through the waist dart until bust point. And close the shoulder bust dart until bust point. And re-establish the line at bust dart. From the neckline at previous bust dart, mark out 3 eighths of an inch or 1 centimeter. From this mark, square in a slant line towards the bust point. So these are the contours that will lessen the gaping at the neckline. Next, from the shoulder point, mark in 2 inches or 5 centimeters. From this mark, square in a line towards the bust point. And from the 2 inches mark at shoulder slope, mark down 1 eighths of an inch or 0.3 centimeter. And from this mark, draw a slant line towards the shoulder point. And these are the important contour guidelines for this kind of neckline. By the way, for those who are new to my channel, I have a separate tutorial for bodice contouring principles and it is available on my channel so better check it out. Next, I am gonna close the contour at the bust and transfer it on the waist dart. Next, at under bust, from the dart, mark out 2 inches or 5 centimeters like so. From this mark, draw in a slant line towards the bust point. This line represents the fall French dart. Next, cut out the excess at under bust and we will transfer the dart onto this line. And I will cut the pattern out from my paper. Next, take a small piece of paper and place it underneath the pattern right exactly at the new dart and tape it in place. Since I don't want my bust to be pointy from the bust point, I will mark down 6 eighths of an inch or 2 centimeters. And I will rejoin my dart legs following the new point. And I will also blend and mend the old dart at under bust. Next, I will close my dart and cut out the excess paper to formally get the shape of the dart. And this is how the front top pattern appears on my dress form or my model. And I will tweak the neckline and the under bust line. To correct my pattern from the under bust, I will mark up 1 eighths of an inch or 0.3 centimeter. Using my ruler, I am going to redraw and reshape the under bust. And cut out the excess. For the neckline, I will mark down 1 eighths of an inch or 0.3 centimeter and redraw and reshape the neckline using my ruler. For the back, I will close the shoulder dart permanently and transfer it to the main back dart. And leave the main back dart cut opened. From the shoulder point, I am going to mark in 2 inches or 5 centimeters. Next, at center back from neck point, mark down 4 eighths of an inch or 1.27 centimeters. And connect these two marks creating a larger boat-shaped neckline for the back. Next, from neck point at shoulder slope, draw in a slant line towards the back dart. From this line, either mark in or mark out 2 eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. From this mark, draw a slant line towards the back dart. And close the neckline contour until the back dart permanently. And blend and mend the back neckline if necessary. Note, always check the length at shoulder slope to see if the measurements are correct. Next, get a piece of paper and place underneath the pattern right exactly at the dart. And tape it in place. To be sure, get the front pattern and place it on the side seam and mark in the under bust line. And continue marking down the under bust measurement from the bust line. And square in the line for the under bust like so. And draw a slight curve line at the back dart like so. And as I've said earlier, instead of sewing the dart, we are going to gather the back using an elastic. Next, I'll cut my pattern out from the paper. And these are my drafted back and front top patterns. For this sleeve, I'll be using my set in sleeve drafted from my back and front torso block. So instead of using the slope side seams, I'll be using the straight side seams. And I will draft the sleeve only until the elbow line. And I will draw in the slash lines for the puff sleeve. And next, from the elbow line, mark up at least 2 inches or 5 centimeters to shorten the sleeve. And square in a line like so. Next, cut through the slash lines like so. And here is my pattern for the puff sleeve. For a complete tutorial experience, I have a separate tutorial for the puff or balloon sleeve. And this is the part 1 of this tutorial and it is available on my channel so better check it out. Next, I am going to put sewing allowances to my side seams and the sleeve gram. At the hem, don't put any sewing allowance and make it sure there's an extra paper at the bottom. Next, fold at the hemline or fold line. And trace off the whole sleeve including allowance and important notches. This technique will save us a lot of time connecting the lining and the self at the hem. From the fold line previously hem, mark up to inches or 5 centimeters. And square a line like so. This line is where we are going to attach the elastic for the sleeve. The elastic should be the same measurement with your bicep weave. And don't forget to label the lining and self to avoid confusion. And please mark the important notches. And mark in the line where we are going to attach the elastic. And also the fold line. And this is the puff sleeve flat pattern. And here's how the sleeve looks like on my model with the front crop top pattern. I took the liberty to try out the puff sleeve on my fabric to see how it appears with an elastic on the lining side. Anyway guys, I hope this pattern making tutorial gave you enough tips on how to recreate the Jacques Moslemour puff sleeve crop top. And if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to comment down below and I will reply as soon as possible. And if you like this video, give it a huge thumbs up. And if you super like this video, give me a super thanks. And if you're not subscribed yet to my channel, La Modelis, make sure to hit that subscribe button. And I will see you guys again on the next tutorial.