 It's time to get rid of that factory artillery sidewinder X1 glass bed and heater and go with the brand new fuller bed from Fulamit. My name's Jim and this is the edge of town. So like I said, today we're going to get rid of the glass plate that came on that sidewinder X1. You know the one where the heater is actually stuck to the bottom of it so you can't replace it? Well, we're going to get rid of that and we're going to put on the brand new fuller bed by Fulamit. Now this is a 5mm plate and you can order it with this double sided flex plate here. There's textured and smooth PEI. We'll get into that later. One of the cool things about this plate, it's guaranteed to be 0.15mm flatness. It is a flat plate and it's going to stay that way at 5mm. It is thick and it is flat. Not only that, but in the plate there are N35UH magnets and they are super strong and they are rated to 180 degrees. Now this thing is awesome. You can set the plate on here and there is some serious force when you let go. You can hear that. It slams down and it holds that plate. This thing's not going to curl up even when you're using the strongest of filaments. That is an awesome feature. I tell you what, let's jump into the install. I'm going to show you how I installed it. It doesn't take long, maybe 20 minutes. When we're done installing it, we'll come back and talk about some of the awesome features of the fuller bed. So the first thing you want to do is flip it over onto the right side and then take out these six screws. So there's 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. I'm going to do that right now and we'll be right back. Now once you have those six screws out, you'll slowly slide this over and you can peel that sticker off. It's the warranty sticker that doesn't mean anything now. I'm going to pull this down like this very carefully because down here there is a fan cable. You want to watch where this comes out of and carefully take that out and set that bottom plate aside. So we find where the heater wires come in and that's this one right here. Comes right through the case and there's two red wires and a black wire in here. So if we give them a little bit of a wiggle, we can see where they go. One goes up here, one goes into here and we need to take those out. The other one, the black one, goes all the way over here to the board and we'll show you that in a minute. So the first thing we're going to do is get a screwdriver here, we're going to loosen this connection and pull this wire out and then loosen where the second red wire is here right here. So we'll flip that open. We'll loosen this one right here and pull this red wire out as well. So what we want to do first is make sure this light right here is not on. There's a little light. If there's any power to this printer and this is on, you just want to stop right now and unplug your printer. Once it's unplugged, grab that plastic protector and pull that off. Take your Phillips head screwdriver like I mentioned and unscrew this one right here and be careful not to lose that screw. And then you want to come over here, unscrew this and that, oops, that one will be around the screw as well. Now those two are your bed. Now you want to make sure this goes back in here when you put everything back together. This blue wire here, but for now, you got your two red wires pulled apart and now we can move on to the board side where the black wire goes. So it's kind of hard to see, but in the lower right side of your board here, you'll see the black wire coming in right here and it goes behind all of this glue. So what we need to do is get some of this glue off so we can get this wire out. But we have to be very careful. We don't want to hurt these yellow wires in the process. So I'm going to take just some snips. You can use a small screwdriver, whatever you want, and I'm just going to peel back some of this glue. Do that very carefully until you can remove some of it. Maybe even carefully use your snips and cut some off, but there's a lot of glue in here and you want to make sure you do not hurt those yellow wires there. So there we go. If you do a little bit of prying, it'll all come off just like that and you'll see this is our black wire. Actually it's black shielding and two red wires that go into the board and it's in this port right here. So now what I do once I get that glue out is I grab a needle nose pliers because it is quite hard to get your fingers in here and I carefully will remove that plug. Now if you can get your fingers in there, go for it. I couldn't. There we go. So I just grabbed my needle nose. Once that is out, you can actually pull back the bed wires and we'll do that now. You can just slowly pull these back and they all should come out relatively easily. So the black wire might need a little co-hearsing through these grommet areas here. There we go. And it'll all come out through the back of grommet right here. And then we can take the bed off the top of the printer now. The old bed is loose. We see the cables here. And what we need to do is take this old bed off of the plate. So what we're going to do is loosen all of our wheels and that will allow the old bed to come clean off that plate. Once you have all the wheels off, we can lift this up slowly and you want to set this aside and make sure you take your yellow springs here and you're going to use those in a little bit. We'll pull those off and set those aside as well. So that's it for removing the old bed. Now we need to install the new one. Now what we want to do is take our brand new filament plate and put it on the table face you. So you see the filament logo. Make sure it is legible and right side up. Then we got four of these really nice good size screws. As you can see, the magnets held them there. And what we want to do is put one in each hole. We're going to grab a three millimeter Allen wrench, screw all four of these in and then we'll move on to the next step. Now what you want to do when you get the four in there is take this and turn it around towards you. In here there's going to be these two little tiny set screws that you need to put in. Now this is a little better view. You can kind of see them. They're really tiny little set screws and you're going to put them in the back of the plate. It's just a 1.5 millimeter hex and it screws down only so far and that's going to be the guide for your new flex plate. So it'll stop right there. But make sure you don't lose these are in the packaging and make sure you put them in before we move forward. Now what we want to do once we get our four screws and our set screws in is turn the plate over carefully just like that and we're going to take our new heater and set it right on the plate and kind of get it centered. Now there's not going to be much overlap left because this heater is much bigger than the old sidewinder heater. This is actually virtually edge to edge. So what you want to do is center it the best you can then grab a sharpie and just kind of make a little mark here, a little mark there, a little mark there and a little mark there. Kind of all four sides. That'll help us align it once we get it cleaned and peeled adhesive. Now you can remove the new heater and set it aside. You want to grab some isopropyl alcohol and just spray down the new plate and grab a microfiber and just give the new plate a good rub. Make sure it's nice and clean. The isopropyl alcohol will dry very quickly but you want to make sure there's no oils or dirt or anything like that left over from the manufacturing and it'll help the adhesive stick much, much better. Now what you want to do is grab your plate and we're going to look at the front of it here and we're just going to peel off the paper backing so that adhesive is now right here and you can feel it, it's pretty dang sticky. We're going to flip this over carefully and we are going to set it back down through the screws and try to align it before you set it down, easier said than done apparently. Try to align it with the marks you made and I totally missed and that's okay. You have a second or two maybe to pull this thing back up and it's probably not. So mine is going to be a little offline and I tell you I think a few people are going to do that. Man, this thing sticks really well. I wanted to reposition and I couldn't so don't make that mistake. Be very careful. And when you're putting it down try to align it with those marks you made. You can see I'm definitely a little bit off here. I might try to fix this a little bit but we're going to keep moving. As you can see I was able to peel it back up very carefully and push it back down and get it mostly centered. What I made the mistake of is holding it from the sides and letting the center droop that center stuck and then it was hard to get off from there. So you don't want to make that mistake try to hold it as flat as possible when you're dropping it down and try to hit your marks. Then when it's on all you want to do is go through and push down. Make sure everything is nice and push down especially around the holes. You want to make sure to take care a little extra time around the holes for the screws because you don't want to come up. This adhesive is very, very good. So once you get it on it's probably not coming back off especially once it gets heated up for the first time. In the back of the plate you'll find this cable here. You want to take the little screw that's left in the bag and you can choose which one of these tapped holes that you use but you want to screw that down into the plate. So we're going to grab our 2mm Allen wrench and that'll screw right down. Now that we have that done we can grab our yellow springs and we can put the yellow springs back on just like this. Now be careful when you flip this over they might go flying so just be careful. The next thing we need to do is put it back on our plate. So we're going to carefully put the cord through the back and let's see if we can get this on without losing too many springs. So I'm going to do it by getting these two started and those two don't want to stay on. So I'm going to lean it down like that. I'm going to set the front one and the back one on here and set them back down on. Now they all should go through just like that. Now with the new plate on right here the springs are here the screws all the way down through we just need to put our wheels on. So I found that it's easier to put my finger underneath it and spin it with my other finger just like that until you get it down. We're going to do that for all four and then we're going to secure them about three quarters of the way down on each side. Now turn your printer back on the side like we did before and you want to grab the new wires and we're just going to feed them right through the grommet very carefully. I'm going to do mine one at a time just so I don't break anything or tango anything. The last two white wires you can actually pull together and we're going to just pull them through just until there we go just until about right there. So this is the wrap on here so we don't want to go too much farther than that for now and we're going to start connecting everything back. So we're going to grab our Phillips head and the screw that we took off from the block here and we're just going to screw that in till it's nice and tight around the block. Now you can use this white one right here. I believe the two white ones are the same so it should not matter which white one you use. The next thing we'll do is take that screw that goes into the power supply. So we're going to take our screw here put it through the new white wire and we're going to put it right there in the power supply and we'll give it a couple turns so it's just in. Then we want to take our blue wire that came out and we're going to push that in as well just like this. So once you have the blue one and your new white one in there you want to make sure everything's tight. The next thing we want to do is unscrew this yellow wire right here from the power supply. You're going to have to unscrew it completely out as we're going to put the new yellow wire in there as well. Just like we did before we're going to take our screw put it through the new wire. We'll get the new wire started in the power supply. Then we'll take the existing yellow and green wire put it right in there make sure it's good and tight and secure that in nice and tight into the power supply. Just like that. So both of these wires should be nice and tight and this is where they go right here. Yellow with green stripe with yellow with green stripe. Perfect. Now we're going to take our black cable here well it's a wrapped black cable it's actually two red cables and it's the one that goes to the board. We're just going to push it through get it all the way through. If your grommet pops out that's okay you can just push it back in just like that to hold these down. Then what we want to do is push it into the port we got it out of right down here in the board. Let me get a closer view of that. The bottom right of the board as I'm looking at it here make sure you have enough cable here to go through and it only goes in should only go in one way with the little tabs down and it is super delicate in there but you just get it close and give it a good push in and it'll push in just like that. Make sure it's in there good and now you're connected to the board right there. So just to recap we took our new wires we pushed them through here and it all sits right in here nicely. The two white ones one goes here, one goes here. The yellow with the green stripe goes in here. The black one we ran all the way over to the board. Now what we need to do is put our cover back on for the block just like that. Now that's good to go. I'm going to move this over to this side to kind of keep it out of the way. So we should be good that's out of the way now. All we have to do is put the bottom back on our printer and stand it up. Don't forget when you're putting the bottom back on there's the fan wire we took out. So what you need to do is push it kind of move your wires aside a little bit here push it into the top left of the board if you're looking at it like I am. It'll only go on one way. It's kind of hard to show and do it at the same time because it's a tight little area but it should just push in and this is for the case fan at the bottom. Now you can see I'm connected right there once we push it in we're good to go to put the bottom on. Once you've put the bottom on all you have to do is flip your printer back over and you're good to go. I'm going to take the spring steel sheet that came with it that I ordered and this is awesome. This is a super thick sheet here so it has textured here and smooth PEI. I'm going to put it textured side down and it slides into the two set screws that we did earlier and you'll see, man, this thing has a lot of force. Just like that. Once that's down, of course, we need to peel that plastic. And just like that, you're done. You have your brand new full of bed installed. This thing is absolutely awesome. It's a must have if you want to get just an absolute flat bed. I cannot say what a great upgrade this is going to be for this sidewinder or any of the other printers that they actually make this for. The cool thing is we peeled the smooth PEI but if we want, we can just pop it up, flip it over, line it up just like this and drop it down and now we have textured PEI right on there as well. That's it. The install is done. Don't forget at this point, you have to re-level your bed. Start completely over. Watch my leveling video. I'll put it right up here but you have to re-level your bed before you do anything else going forward. That is a must. Don't want to damage this brand new flex plate. Now the plate I have is pre-production. It could be a little bit different than the one that actually comes out in production and there will be some differences. The plate I have actually is using magnets that are only good up to 150 degrees. The production ones will be good up to 180 degrees. They just weren't ready yet when the pre-production line came through. Also, there might be some areas of on the bottom where you saw some glue. That won't be there during the production ones. That was a pre-production thing. They were trying to figure out and testing a bunch of different ways on how to put that on. So if you notice that in the video, don't worry about that for the production model. So the package I got was the brand new flex plate and this is the 2.0 version I believe is what they call it. The brand new heater which is virtually edge to edge underneath. You saw that I kind of screwed it up and then I tried to fix it when I was putting on be careful, take your time and don't do that. You can easily prevent that. I was just in a hurry filming and I just had to fix it. So just be careful there. Also it comes with a brand new aluminum plate that looks absolutely gorgeous by the way. Now we talked about the plate itself. It is guaranteed flatness to 0.15 millimeters which is phenomenal. It has the N35UH magnets that are good up to 180 degrees on the bed. The heater will stay hot and operate up to 150 degrees on the bed. So the magnets are gonna hold far past that. One of the other cool things is this aluminum is actually heat treated already. So you don't have to worry about it settling or breaking in. They actually heat treated it during the manufacturing process and it's good to go. Now the heater, let's talk about that because it's kind of an expensive upgrade but I think it's totally worth it. Now you could run this with no heater. You could even try to find one of the stock heaters that came on the artillery and put that under there. It's just not gonna be as good. This heater is targeted for those who print high temperatures. It goes up to 150 and it holds 150 degrees on this bed. It is tested and full of it says it will do that. It's a collaboration with the US company that's been making heaters like this for a very long time and it's actually manufactured in the UK. Another awesome thing is the wires are actually not silicone in this. They're PTFE. That means they're much stronger and more durable. They're gonna hold up to as much printing as you can throw at this. One of the best things is the great safety feature of a built in thermal fuse. The thermal fuse is an awesome safety feature that prevents fires. If this thing ever were to get too hot or just go in the runaway or something, that fuse will blow and that'll stop the fire from happening. That is an awesome safety feature that you really do need when you're using these powerful heaters. Let's talk about the Flex Steel Plate here. Now this is 0.5 millimeters thick. A lot of people only use 0.4 millimeters thick but full of it with the Flex 2.0 went with 0.5. The other cool thing is the thickness of the PEI. Now you notice that this is the textured side but if you take a look at the smooth side there's something really cool about this. It actually is 0.30 millimeters thick. Now most of them are made at 0.175 millimeters thick. So this is gonna be thicker PEI on this side than almost all of the other Flex plates out there. There's only a couple out there that make them this thick and full of it really did a great job with that. As I mentioned, the magnets in this thing hold this bed really good. It snaps down super strong so don't put your fingers under there. It will catch and it will pinch you, trust me. Also, how they're doing it is the pre-orders actually started today, the date of this filming. The video's gonna come out a couple days after the pre-orders but the pre-orders started today and they're gonna go in waves. The first wave of those orders is gonna start shipping on October 13th and then the other waves will be shortly after that. So if you're in there, don't worry about not getting one. Just know that there's gonna be certain waves because they have to manufacture so many at a time. Just jump on, do your order and I believe they're gonna let you know what wave you're in and they'll give you an estimated time on when that wave will be shipped. So all that being said, I just wanna thank Fulament for shipping me over the pre-production version of their Fulabed, their Flex Plate 2.0 and that awesome heater. There was no money that exchanged hands and they did not ask to see this video before it's released. He just asked if I would check it out if I put it on and I wanted to make the video on how to install it. So that's why I did this. I'm gonna go from here and test this thing out. I cannot wait. I can already tell that this is gonna be such a better bed than this stock Sidewinder X1 Glass was and I cannot wait to start using it. I would definitely check out the pre-sale if you have a Sidewinder or a bunch of other printers that this is gonna be available for, including the Ender 3 series. So you wanna check that out if you have an Ender 3 and you actually want a flat build surface. But I hope you guys learned something today and as always, keep printing. Hey everybody, I hope you liked the video. If you did, hit that thumbs up. If you haven't already, hit that subscribe button right here and click the bell if you wanna get notified anytime we go live or put another great video out right here on the edge of tech.