 Hey guys, in this video I'll show you how to set the sag of your bike in two different ways the most common way and the race-tack way which is the most suited way of doing it if you want to take your bike setting to the next level If you want to understand why sag is so important and what it's for check out this episode from Offroad Engineered For both ways I'm just using a simple measuring tape and we'll start off with the most common way of setting sag We'll start by measuring the total distance between the center of the wheel and the point on the rear fender We're going to call this value X1 This point doesn't need to be perfectly vertical to the center of the wheel as long as you take all the measurements exactly on the same point every time Get completely geared up like if you'd go ride Don't forget the water bag, tools and any other accessory that you might take with you when riding This is super important because all the weight you take with you will affect how much the bike sags Now get on the bike and position yourself like if you were riding The position of your body on the bike will affect the weight transfer and also affect the total sag Measure how much travel you have left and we'll call this value X2 Now take your X1 value and subtract X2 to it We'll call the result X3 X3 is how much your bike sags This is the value that everyone talks about The sag should be around 100mm or one-third of the shock's total travel For more technical riding and corner stability such as enduro or hard enduro up to 95mm of sag is deemed ideal and for straighter and faster riding such as rally riding up to 105mm is more suited but you can set the sag anywhere between this range according to what you do Let's say I want my sag to be exactly 100mm and my current sag or X3 is a bit less than that This means the spring's preload is too big and I have to remove some preload For that you only have to alleviate the spring so you start by unscrewing the locking ring on the shock You can start by unscrewing one full turn at a time and re-measure your sag When X3 is equal to 100mm you have your sag dialed This was the simplest yet the least precise way of measuring your sag With that in mind the renowned suspensions gurus, race tech have come up with the most precise way of measuring the sag Why is it different? Well, it takes friction into account and you have friction everywhere from the shock itself to the suspension rods and the swing arm which end up messing with your measurements For this method we'll need the X1 value as well Then we'll measure a second X2 which is measured with a rider on a bike after compressing the suspensions about 25mm and letting it go It's really important for a rider to be really still to not change the measurement Then we'll measure another X3 which is also measured with the rider on a bike but instead of compressing we'll alleviate the suspensions a little bit Your real sag or X4 is X1 subtracted by the mean of X2 and X3 Race tech claims that if done right this value can be accurate to 1mm and for you to have an idea 1mm is like stupidly small Another really useful information that this method gives us is the Stiction Zone which gives us a good idea of the condition of the inner components The Stiction Zone is the difference between X2 and X3 and according to race tech if it's bigger than 5mm you should check your shock or change the bushings and seals Now you know how to set the sag of your bike in two different ways and if you have any question feel free to leave on the comments below Hope you liked the video and subscribe to the channel Cheers!