 Hey guys, here like a boss here, Daniel Techo with Matt Backout in here in Pennsylvania for free salon education. We're going to be going over my whiteout process and what we'll be covering is integrity of the hair, why or why not to take clients, and formulation when you are done full bleach process. A lot of my followers always ask questions on why or why I don't take certain clients because the attraction to my page is the white hair. What I find is that at a level seven and above is where you'll obtain that clean healthy white hair in one session. In 90% of my clients, as far as most clients, they want their hair to be done in one process. Can it be done at a level two and above? Sure, but you're gonna have to do a double process. So the number one thing I look for is integrity of the hair and if I'm going into the hair and it has a lot of correction going on, then I usually won't take it due to the fact that this is only lightening and if you have many bands in the hair, 90% of the time you're going to still have banding. So when I'm talking about white from the root out, I'm talking about white only from the root out. And if you have a lot of correction going on, it's never going to happen. I've failed and learned that it will not happen. To start my process, I always go over the canvas. I always look through the hair. I make sure again, integrity of the hair is there, the clean from the root out. So say if she has a whole bunch of highlights going on, then more than likely when I go to lighten the whole hair, she's still going to have highs and lows. That might be an issue down the line. It might not be. The second thing I will do is clarify her hair. If I feel like she has product in her hair or if her hair is the type of hair that I need to have wet saturation, then that is something I do. Do I do it all the time? No. But by wetting the hair and letting the hair clarify, it lets me to have the sanity to know that the hair is clean, has no mineral buildup, has no alcohols on it, has no gel. It is clean, damp hair for me to go in and do an extensive lightening process. To start my application, I will section into four sections, front, back, just the typical hairstylist four sections. I have the whole back section and then I create sections out of that area. The tools that I tend to use is a color board, a wet brush, and give or take one of the combs that have teeth on one side and a comb brush on the other side so I can brush through to make sure the saturation is even throughout. I went with a bigger bowl because I always found myself moving and having to mix up new bowls. So if this bad boy will hold comfortably about 10 ounces total of lightener and I believe those little bowls, average bowl color bowls hold maybe six ounces. Those four ounces are going to help you finish a whole section of like the head. Opposed to going back and forth, remixing lightener, I mix up one big bowl of lightener that I know is going to allow me to cover the whole back or the whole front of a section of the head. So approaching each section, the main thing that you have to be concerned about is saturation. Saturation is key to lightening the hair. The hair wants to absorb all the product that we put onto it. About half inch sections as I move up and then I'm staying about a half inch away from the root and just going through and really making sure the hair is soaked with the lightener. So the foils I like to use are a heavier based foil so I have more control. They almost act as a barrier and a board for me simultaneously so I can move up the head. I like to section probably about every two to three sections going up. I like to incubate it somewhat. The foils that you see me use there is actually a paper side and a foil side, aluminum side. Obviously we know that aluminum creates or generates heat, incubates if you lock it up. I do not use heat or the aluminum side at first because I know that the back section is going to be sitting there for the longest period of time so I don't need to have that heat work. I know the lightener and my saturation is going to do that for me by itself. So you can see my client's starting level is about a level seven, virgin. So I usually go to a 20 volume just to be safe on the hair because with the short top blonde me I've used it for so long that I know 20 volume is going to get me to a level 9, 10 with no problem. So I like to start off with just the amount that I know is going to allow me to cover the whole back of the head with 20 volume and allow that to sit and then moving forward I will mix up a whole new bowl of lightener at about a level maybe 25 so I'll mix half 20, half 30 and bump it up slightly just to catch up to the back section being at 20 volume. So once I finish the back now moving forward to the front I will then see almost like the hairline so a lot of people have different recession in their hairline so I like to keep my application in a very much of like a row. You'll see me separate her front section to her row of her hair, the mid row of her hair which I call the front still and I just like to make sure that the section is very clean and organized so I can just move up the head to keep the speed at the same rate rate I guess you'd say. So I just move to the front same type of application I just reassess her recession to her hairline. Here's the tip when you hit that front of the hair you want to really analyze and look at the client's hairline so all along here we all have a recession so you don't want to be trying to pull these little hairs to the side so what you have to do or you'll see me do is clip almost her money piece area because the the shape of the head is getting wider as I move up and I don't want to compensate or pull that hair in I just want to leave that hair out so you'll see me moving up the hair and then going back to the very end and doing like foils going forward just to make sure I go directly into that hair. So now the whole head is covered in lightener what do you do you have to reassess the hair is or the lightener is closer to the scalp what's going to happen is going to generate heat with that heat the lightener is going to work faster so you have to what I do I go through and now that I have the foils I can open and close a lot easier you or I like to take and run my the saturation from where the scalp or closest to the scalp that is warm and is already getting to that level nine inside banana pale yellow and I will pull that saturation down that is warm and run it over the ends because the ends aren't closer to the root so it's not getting that heat to allow it to lift evenly so I reassess and reapply towards the end of the hair shaft to bump it up so after making sure the whole head I take all the lightener from the root area drag it to the bottom I let that sit for about 10 15 minutes I check them sometimes I use heat sometimes I don't again this service in this process is very customized to what that client's hair is going to do you just this is not uh something I write down I hand it to you and you just do this exact situation it is you have to babysit it after I let it sit for about 10 15 minutes and assess that the fact that everything is now even from that half inch root out to the ends then I will go in I will remix 20 volume lightener again and start doing the root and after I apply it to the root and good saturation like dripping saturation like lightener is going to be flying it should be then I will let the client sit again for another 10 15 minutes I might do heat for the first five to 10 to really kick up the lightener and have everything be even after that five 10 minutes I really reassess make sure we're at that level nine that the whole head is at and then again I will let everything sit for full for another 10 15 minutes depending again on what I see so once I find that the client is even level nine 10 uh from root out I will obviously bring them to the bowl shampoo them nine out of 10 times I will use a very uh pigmented purple shampoo tips and tricks little things that many people don't do um bottle applicator I use a bottle applicator for toning but mostly what I do is at the sink I will put the purple shampoo I'll put about this much warm water and a good amount of purple shampoo just mix it up instead of going to the sink putting globs of light or shampoo on your hand and then just like kind of you know how we do we just pat the top of the head and hopefully we saturate the whole thing if you have it in the bottle applicator then you can smoothly go from root to ends and you can apply directly just like you would a toner from from the root of the head to the ends of the hair uh that is just something I learned I picked up because it didn't make sense to me as I was shampooing clients I felt like I wasn't getting even saturation throughout the whole head because of a lot of our purple shampoos are very dense and thick so it wasn't I wasn't able to confidently know that I got full saturation of our whole head even saturation of that purple pigment in less time the purple shampoo allows me two things obviously it's going to tone as it sits with that purple pigment but it also allows me to see if that hair grabs uh that's something I learned from using the purple shampoo if that hair grabs that purple or violet hue then I know I can't go into her hair shaft with a lot of ash because it's going to grab dark like not dark but it's going to grab gray or hue I don't want and white oddly enough has a lot of gold into it if you put ash that's why and every and everybody ends up with like gray silver flat color because you have to have the gold you're taking out gold from the hair when you're lightening you have to put it back in to have a happy medium uh so when I see the hair grab that tone I know to mix up maybe 10 10 g maybe 10 n maybe 9 g maybe 9 n in my formula along with like a violet or an ash it again formulation is all custom to what is going on uh at that point in time to give a formula I could give you favorite formulas but there is no formula I'm going to give you that's going to nail your client every time so now we've we've told the client at the sink with the purple shampoo I analyze the hair I see that it grabs nowhere the hair is in great shape not porous at all pulling no tone so I bring her to the seat uh bring her to the chair sit her down and then section front to back again now after I've mixed up a toner that is heavily I would say it's more of like a pearl violet that I'm going to be using on her I will section again front to back and apply from root down the root is always the area that I'm worried about first because the ends I can either pull down that color or blend it in or saturate again with the remaining color but the root is the area you need to saturate the most because obviously that being at the scalp it could either create spotty work uh poor saturation will leave bands like where you could either have yellow hair or perfectly pigmented white hair uh saturation is key at the root so I always go heavy at the root and if need be I will pull that light that color down that toner down and then reapply but I always mix up more like if I have no color in my bowl after I've done my process that I'm scared that I didn't have enough product product I always make sure to over mix lightener toner whatever it is I'd rather know that I'm throwing some away opposed to not putting enough on so now that I have her whole head covered in toner this is when it gets scary the number one thing I learned with toners is do not take them off prematurely even though you're freaking out and every bleach out that I do every wet out that I do I freak out every time because you do not know if it's gonna be white underneath that violet that blue that purple tone that you're probably gonna say uh so do not remove it until you get scared that's the number one tip that I would say wait till it gets scary because once you rinse it off you're good trust the manufacturers rules everybody that's attempting even the service should have very strong knowledge in toning anyways before you attempt this um but the toning aspect is scary and it's always gonna be scary no matter how good you get I'm scared every time so another tip of toning if you are scared and you want to push a little bit more but you're not sure when she's at the sink since you have the whole head saturated just take a little section from the very bottom of her hair wherever the bottom may be if she has long hair short hair medium hair just have good lighting over the section where the sink is and just rinse out the ends and assess like what you see from rinsing off the toner at the ends because you can still if if it's not ready you can still then go to the top of the head and because you have good saturation or you should you should be able to pull that toner back over and reapply toner over that section that you just took off the hair and depending on what you see you can either rinse the whole head because you're happy or pull that toner back over to re-saturate and re-tone that area that you just removed so now you can see our end result clean healthy strong shiny white hair from the root to the ends and in a matter of an average about three to four hours depending on assistants or no assistants thank you for your time thank you for your support uh hope i gave enough tips and tricks or knowledge for everybody to go out and start banging out their own perfect white hair if you guys ever have any questions something that you're trying that is working out for you that you can help me i'm still learning so i think this is always about and again what matt's doing here with free salon education it's just all of us having each other's back and having this community community that we can share knowledge we can go back and forth through each other because something i might do is is what you might not be doing but you might have a trick for me so if you have any questions or concerns hit up here like a boss and i'll get back to you within two three days oh wait i have an app go download made emergency it is going to be the best thing to hair since sliced bread does that make sense yeah we'll go with that either way the purpose behind made emergency was the emergency factor of cancellations the original idea about this app was a push notification that all your followers would get say you have a cancellation you have no way to reach out to people and that is money lost uh this app will allow you all your followers to get a text message saying hair like a boss is availability at nine thirty you can call or text to take that advantage of that appointment if we don't fill our cancellations average cancellation i would say about three a month uh say two fifty appointment so with that amount of cancellations you're probably going to lose about eight thousand to nine thousand average a year that's with three cancellations at two fifty the next thing is consultation so it blows my mind that there was no app or no function for a client to hit you up in book an appointment with you and already provide what their hair looks like and what they want all of us say text message me your pictures of your hair then we have to wait or we ask for emails there's just too many steps so what my app offers is this immediate knowledge or indication of what this client's hair looks like and what they want so when they go to book to book you for that either partial highlight or partial balayage or partial baby light but then they're showing you a full picture of a full head baby light then you can go back and reassess or or give that information to that client and right fit them into a better appointment so both you as a stylist and them as client are happy so obviously a booking app will have for scheduling scheduling on this app is much more organized i would say and understood one of the apps i was using before just let clients book whenever they wanted in any spot without being having a confirmation from me my app allows the client to go book but it is simply a request they know that they do not have that appointment yet that you will get back to them you send a confirmation text to them after again seeing what their hair looks like seeing what they want and if the time frame they selected in that scheduling works for them and if it doesn't you could easily just meshes them back and say hey you're looking for this but you're you're yeah you're requesting this but you really need this much time say an extra hour and a half so you have to right fit that client so stop wasting time go download the app the app is available for both the android systems phones and ios so android samsung iphone being ios so it is available for both platform it's free for just search engine just being on the app and if you want to utilize all the functions which i highly suggest it is 25 a month thank you have a good day