 Hello boys and girls. Welcome to a repair video. Got a 2014 F-150 over here, made by Ford. This is the EcoBoost V6 twin turbo version, the FX4. Believe it's a 3.5. And we're gonna be doing parking brakes, which in this case are just like drum brakes, but without the cylinder. All you got is this manual line. You put a lever or a push a lever, whatever, inside and this pulls and activates the parking brakes. So let's get to it. These fun, fun, fun lug nuts. They have this stupid cap-sum or whatnot. This is a 21 by the way. Now if you were to remove this chrome thing off of it, then it would become a 20. And you can see how you can separate it over here. These over time corrode on the inside and they bulge and you are not able to put a socket on it. Now if they are still good, use a deep 21 socket. Always, always try and put it all the way in. See this one is still good. That's how it should be. This one however, you see how it's got marks halfway. See how this one doesn't fit in. I actually had to hammer this one in. Up to this point, anything after that I would just destroy it some more. Luckily for me it wasn't on very tight. And I was able to take that out. This one for example, it's got marks in the middle. I don't know if you can see it, see it or not. But this one's still good miraculously. See it's already starting to break apart over here. You see the crack? So this one goes on. It wasn't easy. I still had to hammer this on because like I said, this kit just gets fat. Because on most of these somebody used a short socket and a short socket just covers half of this lug nut and it destroys the middle. Makes it uneven. Then, you know, when you are when you're using a proper socket later on, then you're having a hard time. Don't be the short socket guy. So after you win the fight with those, you can start by taking off the caliper. The whole thing. The caliper bracket is what I mean. But before you do that, grab a big screwdriver and try and fit it in between the cylinder and the inner pad. Ever so lightly. Just push away the... I mean, do I say cylinder? Piston. Push away the piston. There you go. So this becomes loose. So now it's actually so it's going to be easier to take this out and then it's going to be easier to put it back in. You won't have to compress the piston anymore. So now it's only two bolts, 18s. This one here and one more on the bottom. Another trick is to once you get this off a bit, you kind of tilt the caliper towards you, tilt this way, then this will compress that piston even more. So this we're gonna just rest on top, the top of the axle. And now I'm gonna have fun trying to take this drum slash rotor off of this. I'm sure it's welded on. Nothing. And there's even brake pad grease. I can see that shiny gold stuff in there. That's the problem area usually. Fun, fun, fun. You can't hit it on the face of the rotor because I need to save it. I could throw some kind of wood. It was gonna be very uncomfortable for me if I had a lift. This was all the way up and I'll be a different story. Now it's either still stuck on the inside here or the actual brake shoes are holding it in. Which I'm probably gonna bet that it's the shoes. So since there is no peak hole and I don't see any adjustments, on the back. Oh, there is a peak hole. There's a rubber. There's a rubber gasket. No, not a gasket. Grammets. There's a rubber grommet right underneath the axle. Take that off. There's the hole and get a short screwdriver this time. Get some light in there. You're gonna see a kind of a small gear. Turn it up or down. I don't I'm gonna tell you in a second. Turn it down. You want to screw it back in. And of course turning it down is gonna be much harder. Are we in all the way? I just don't get it. Am I making the tighter? I think I just made it tighter. So back to plan a going up. Yep, that is definitely making it loose. So these actually look okay. Plenty of shoes left. The rear left was is squeaking. See because of this ridge over here, that's actually not too bad, but that's why you're not able to just slide them off once you get these rotors loose. But yeah, this is this brake is in use. This guy actually uses his emergency brake, parks on the hill. So this actually is not rusted at all. We're gonna clean this off and before I continue, I'm gonna take apart the rear left side and I'm gonna show you what's going on in there. All right, this is the rear left. Same story with the rotor. I actually used the air hammer and I put it against this area here on the inside so I wouldn't destroy the smooth surface and I missed a little bit. I'm gonna send this down. It's okay. This rotor is not in very good shape anyways. I'm also gonna kind of break this rust off. You can see how it's building up over here. The whole pad is not catching the inner part of the rotor. And again, this is nice and smooth. There's a little ridge over here. So this is what I'm gonna do with rotors. Obviously, send this down, break off this rust over here. Simply just by doing something like that. I'm gonna get a wire brush on the drill and clean this the inside here off. Let's see how this area is rusted. This is what gives you issues when you're taking the rotors off. And I'm also gonna clean this area of the rotor also right here with the inside here. So still on the driver side. So this is the main issue over here. See the pin right here. There is a pin right there. And look what happens when I try to move this. What happens is nothing. I should be able to move this part that's horizontal to me with the part that's vertical that way. And that pin. This is stuck, frozen, rusted, nothing. So this is the main issue. Still didn't check the other side. I'm sure it's the same or getting to be the same. But I gotta keep digging, gotta take that out and break it loose. How about some stainless steel Ford? Alright guys. This this was a workout and a struggle, but I got this thing loose and here's how I did it. First I took my vise grips. I guess long-nose vise grips, my go-to tool to do in drum brakes. And what you do because there's a spring that's a major problem, but I shoved the vise grip the tool in between the spring to catch the line. But I didn't grip it yet as I left it in between the spring because it's already tough to fit it in there and by once you apply the handbrake, this just the spring collapses and it's even tighter. So I fit it through there, left it a little bit tight so it doesn't fall out. Then I pressed in the handbrake inside the cabin all the way down, all the way as much as you can. Then came back, left it on, came back here, gripped the line inside. At this point the spring is so tight that there's no gap in between the any of the coils. So you're gripping the line on the inside, then you let go of the handbrake and then this, you know, leave the vise grips in, don't remove them at this point, then this part becomes somewhat loose. Then you have this this locking tab, one on the other side too, so too. You press those in and this comes out. I was trying to take this whole line out right from here, but I couldn't. This spring was still tight and I don't know if there's a special tool or what to remove this, but this is super difficult. So I gave up on this plan, put it back on, this thing, took my vise grips out and began the procedure to break this loose. Basically trying to vise gripping it in the back, so it somewhat stays in place and using my screwdriver, lubricating it and trying to move it, wedge it here and here and trying to move it back and forth. Now as long as you get it somewhat moving, just a little bit, then it becomes easier and easier. You can actually move, use your fingers to do this. Keep lubricating, keep moving it and this is what you get. So now I'm gonna, I'm gonna put this back together. Before I do that, I'm gonna actually explain. I'm not gonna take the other side is loose. I'm only gonna lubricate it. I'm not gonna replace. I decided not to replace the shoes, the springs and the shoes look all right. Plenty of meat left on them on both sides. So what I did to remove the shoes was first, and we actually, I'm gonna, we're gonna go to the other side. All right, first what you want to do, you can actually move this shoe out a bit so you have better access to this clip over here. You're gonna turn this clip around in a way, or actually you don't even need to. You can just, you can just kind of go inside it and pull it out while pressing these tabs with the second screwdriver. This is pretty easy. Do this on both sides. Another one right there. So you're breaking the shoes loose. Then you're gonna, with your both of your hands, pull this shoe to the left and pull this shoe to the right with your hands. The adjuster screw thing is gonna fall out. This way when you let go of the shoes, they will come closer together, and you're gonna be able to remove this spring without using any tools. It's gonna literally almost fall out. Then, all that's left is this spring up top here, and this is a big one. Without even touching the spring, you're gonna take one shoe either way, either one, and lift it up, and this whole thing, both while holding the other shoe, you're gonna lift it up. The spring will go with it, and all you're doing there is removing it from this here. So you're grabbing, you know, remember this point, the bottom part of the shoes, both shoes are loose. You're just gonna lift it up, and while holding the other side, move it away. Just lifting it up and moving it out, up, going up and left. If you're gonna grab onto the right shoe, and that's it. That's why this looks like that. I never removed this spring at all. I'm gonna try and put it back the same way I took it off. Okay, brake cleaner. Clean the speed sensor. Got some high-temperature grease. Pack it in with the grease as much as you can. Okay, this should be good. Okay, I'm actually gonna grease the points over here where the shoes rest. Let's see, there is, there's only two. No, never mind. I see, I see three. One, two, four, three, four. And now the shoe, the fun part. I'm actually gonna grease this part where, actually, no, I'm gonna, what I'm gonna grease is this here, where the shoes rest and move. I'm gonna grease both. Just grease everything. So how that, this works, just slides. Make sure this Grammar is in there. So you're gonna seat the left shoe on my, doing the left side. So I'm gonna seat the left shoe. Push this in, so that's all there, all pushed in. Then do a kind of a move. That's a strong spring, by the way. This is not easy, boys. Ha, that's all it took. I hope. There you go. There we go. Okay, that's good. Now it's time for the bottom. Okay, hopefully you can somehow see what I'm doing over here. So I'm gonna take this adjuster. Okay, make sure it's on the, where the hole is. So the the gear is on my left, right where the peak hole is. Now the spring should actually do it the other way around. I'm gonna do the spring first, because I took the spring out first. So I should put it on first, I think. No, no. I took the spring second after I took out the the adjuster. Yes, so see how these shoes come together. And then look for that hole for the spring. Okay, it looks like the spring. There, it's in now. I'm gonna take the adjuster. This lower spring is not that strong. You can easily pull it with one hand. And there it is. Okay, looks like that's in. And now the pin. Where's the pin? Here's the pin. Goes in from the back side. I know it's hard to get light in there. Hopefully you can see that pin there. And now I'm sure this is gonna be fun as well. It is a Ford after all. Everything needs to be fun. Can even fit my hand in there. Maybe from the top. I don't know how I'm gonna do this. There you go. Wasn't that bad. Now I'm gonna do the clip on this side and see how it works. All right, so this is where we're at. New grease on the problem area. Greased up the top. The clips are in, adjuster is in. Greased up the the touch points, whatever for the shoes. Cleaned up the inside here, both sides. Now it's time to put the rotor back on. So it is touching it a little bit, but remember the shoes are not even. So what I would have to do is apply the handbrake and release. So it's making a little bit less noise. What I'm gonna do at this point I'm gonna put on two lug nuts just so the rotor is in all the way. And now I'm gonna tighten it up in the back. By going up we were going down before so now I'm gonna go up. And once it gets tight back away, I don't know maybe two teeth or three and I leave it. It's okay if the shoe, the parking brake shoes are actually touching the drum on the inside a little bit. This way you know that they're just slightly rubbing on it. This way you know that they are adjusted properly. All right, so by going up went all the way so this thing barely moves. As you can see, this is too tight. Obviously, so I'm gonna back away two teeth. Maybe one more. They're going down now. It actually gets quiet at one point, so that's fine with me. You know little rubbing is okay. This side is done. Actually, let's see what happens when I apply the handbrake. I'm about a quarter in on the parking brake pedal and I cannot move it at all. I'd say it's holding. I did drive the thing and after releasing the parking brake, it doesn't squeak any longer. So this was supposed to be a replacement of the parking shoes, but then I decided not to replace the shoes or the springs. I had the whole set ready to go. But as you saw, the rusty pivoting part, I have no idea what to call that, was rusted solid and that's why the parking brakes didn't release on its own kind of they did a little bit, but they squeaked after releasing it. And I'm sure that was annoying. And because of the shoes being in good shape and all the springs, that's why I decided not to replace any of those parts. The rear right, that rusty part was in a bit better shape, was still frozen, but I managed to break it loose playing with the screwdrivers back and forth without taking anything apart. So that is it boys and girls. I hope this helped you out. Now you know what goes on in there. It may not necessarily be the shoes or the hardware. I guess it's a kind of a free fix. All you need is some PB Blaster or WD-40 oil, whatever, some lubrication and then make sure you just grease the hell out of it if you're reusing the same rusty parts that is. It's probably gonna happen again, you know, in a year, two, three, four, who knows. But at least it is a free fix after all. And I don't know how much those parts are at the dealer. Your average auto parts store is not gonna have those. It is a dealer part. And a lot more is involved and just taking out those brake lines is a pain in the ass. So for a lot of you, I'm sure this is the way to go. And as always guys, like, subscribe. If you're not subscribed, please do so right now. Thanks for watching. See you soon.