 Okay, welcome to Little Garden on the Prairies. It is a Sunday afternoon and I am going to be making some tello soap. I haven't made soap for almost a year, which is crazy because I used to make it pretty much weekly, but it's just kind of something that I've kind of lost time to do. And I decided today I want to get a nice batch of patchouli soap made up before Christmas so I can give some of my friends some of my homemade soap because they all love the patchouli scented soap. So today I'm just going to take you through all the different steps that I use to do a hot process method for making tello soap. So right now I am just measuring out all my oils that are going to be going into this recipe. So all my percentages of the oils and butters that are going into this soap are calculated on a 1200 gram batch of soap. So we're doing 45% tello, 25% coconut oil, 20% canola and 10% cocoa butter. So all these are going to get measured into my crock pot and melted and start heating up. So the tello that I'm using today in my soap is tello that I rendered myself from our own pasture raised beef. It's a wonderful main ingredient to have in any soap. Tello makes a great bar soap that is great for the skin. So if you ever can get your hands on some beef fat from a butcher or if you have your own cattle or someone you know it's a great easy way to make it the best ingredient for your soaps. So for our lye solution here we're starting off with some distilled water and then we are going to be adding in 3% sodium lactate and that is going to help make a nice hard bar for our soap. So also to my lye solution here I'm going to be adding 5% sugar to this. So the reason I use white sugar in my lye solution is for one it adds extra lather and bubbles to the soap at the end but also when you are mixing it into your oils it helps kind of accelerate that saponification process. So we're going to be using a 5% measurement so based on the 1200 gram size of soap that I'm making today that's going to be 60 grams of white sugar. So once we've got that sugar and that sodium lactate thoroughly dissolved in the distilled water we're just going to set this to the side and when our oils have reached the right temperature we'll be adding the lye to this and mixing it into the oils. So I'm just mixing up my super fats here and today in my soap I'm going to be using some shea butter and some jojoba oil. So in my hot process soap making I had the super fats after the cook after the oils and lye have fully saponified and I have soap these will go into the mixture afterwards and they will maintain their structure they will maintain their moisture benefits and all the great things that they do for your skin. So super fatting is basically adding extra fats and oils to your recipe that will not turn into soap and will stay in their true form and benefit the skin. So this batch of soap is 1200 grams as I said before and I am adding a 6% measurement of super fat so that works out to about 72 grams. I'm going to do about three quarters shea butter and then just top it up with a little bit of the jojoba oil. So this will just sit on the stove getting warm and melting until the soap is ready and we are ready to add it. So for the hot process soap making method that I'm using here you want your oils to reach a temperature of around 210 to 220 and that's when it is ready for you to add the lye solution which also will be around that 200 degrees Fahrenheit. So before we get mixing in our lye solution I'm also going to add some French green clay to my oils here. I'm going to put in two tablespoons. So the clay is great for the skin as well. It also kind of adds a little bit of slippage to your soap. So if you want to use it as a shaving bar for your legs or underarms it works good for that as well. And it gives it just a hint of a coloring too so it's just kind of nice. So I'm just checking the temperature of the oils here and they are hitting at about 217 degrees Fahrenheit so they are at the temperature we want them. It's time to mix up the lye solution. So it's always good if you can do this near an open window where you have some good ventilation make sure you're not breathing in any of the vapors coming from this. I like to just crack my kitchen window if you can and then just stir in the lye and to the water. Keep stirring so it's thoroughly dissolved. Check that temperature. It's going to rise really fast. So right now it's already reached about 190 degrees Fahrenheit. We wanted to try and get up there to 200 in the next minute or so and then we'll add it to the oils. I like to run it through a sieve just to make sure there's no undissolved pieces of lye in there. Just slowly pour it into your oils. Then I just start mixing with the hand blender just on the low setting. So I usually do this mixing for one to two minutes. I've switched it to high now. Just make sure you keep your hand blender fully submerged so you don't splatter yourself because this will still be very caustic and can burn the skin. So we're trying to get it to a thick pudding stage and to a stage that we call trace. I'll show you that as soon as we get to that point. So the stage that we call trace is when you can drip the soap across the top here and it'll kind of sit on top in kind of a lumpy stage but it hasn't gotten thick enough yet so you just keep stirring. So you can see it's gotten very thick now. It's kind of like pudding. It is leaving a bit of a trace as I dribble it across the top here. Just gonna give it another minute or so and I think we are good. So you can see as I drip it on top it just sits on top because it's getting very thick. So once you've reached trace that stage I just take my hand blender out give it a quick cleaning and we're just gonna let that soap sit and cook for a bit until we start seeing some cracking on the surface and we get the soap to volcano. So you never wanna walk away from this at this point. You wanna keep an eye on it because it is heating up and you wanna look for signs here on the top of the soap starting to crack. And when you see that happening that means that it is starting to volcano. It's getting extremely hot and you need to stir that down. So just gently using one of these just get in there, stir that down and it will get very runny at this point, which is good. That's what you want. It's looking more kind of like a Vaseline-type texture. Once you've got it stirred down like that you wanna use your blender to try and kind of accelerate that saponification. I just kind of move it around. You will see the oil is trying to separate but you just keep blending like this and you watch for another volcano to happen maybe. See, you got a little bit of soap forming here, which is good. When it looks like it's starting to heat up again. See, we've got some volcano happening here again. Keep an eye on that. I kind of let it go as far as I can before it's gonna start bubbling over the edges because this is saponification in the works right now. And then just gently get your whisker in there again and stir it down. At this point, this is where you really gotta put some elbow grease into it and keep stirring and stirring. It stops, the oil stops separating and it's looking like it's kind of forming into soap. That's what you wanna do and you wanna just keep stirring this till it gets to a very shiny Vaseline-looking stage. So like I said, it's a lot of stirring. Gotta go back and forth with each arm. So I think we've pretty much gotten to the texture that we want to. It's got a shiny look to it. When it starts to cool and cool off, it turns into soap. So we're just gonna kind of stir it in, let it sit for a minute. You can see it's nice and loose, which is really great if you wanna add some colorings or divide it into different parts and kind of try to make some designs in your soaps. Today I'm going to try doing a pencil line in my soap using some activated charcoal. So we're gonna attempt that here. Just going to do the zap test on here to make sure that this is fully saponified and we can add some of our essential oils and our super fat. So to do the zap test, you can use a kit that tests it for you. I usually just take a piece of soap, let it cool off in my hand here, so it's not going to burn my tongue and I just gently touch it with my tongue. So if it zaps my tongue, I know that this is not quite ready yet and it needs to be stirred a bit more. If there's no zap and it just tastes like soap, then we have reached the pontification and we now have soap. So this is not recommended if you'd rather use some kind of a kit to check your pH level on this to make sure you have soap, that is fine. I just touch it to my tongue and you'll know if you get zapped, but nothing happened. Just tastes like soap. I just rub it in my hands here like this and I can see I'm getting a good lather so we know we have made soap. So once you've reached this stage here, you need to act fairly quickly because it's going to start cooling down and hardening off fairly quick. As you can see, it's nice and loose right now so it's perfect for adding different colors. Like I said, you can do different designs. If you were going to be adding some goat's milk, which is what I usually do, but I don't have any today, I would be adding it right now. So the first thing we're going to stir in is our super fats. So this is our shea butter and jojoba oil. I'm like, this is going to make it a really nice luxurious bar, having that shea butter and jojoba oil, jojoba oil in there. So you just want to make sure you stir it in really well. And another ingredient that I always like to add at this point is a little bit of melted honey, all natural honey, and you stir that in and it adds a lot of bubbles to your soap, which is really nice. I just warmed up about a tablespoon of honey that I'm going to stir in really well right now. As you can see, our soap here is really nice and loose. So it's working good. Should be easy to pour into the molds. And then the last thing is your essential oils. And I love patchouli, so all my soaps usually have a patchouli blend. I usually recommend patchouli, lavender and orange. Today I didn't have any orange, so I've added a little peppermint, which will kind of add to the scent. Little different touch, but I think it'll be good. Think about patchouli though, like you say it's a very dark oil so it can affect your colorings if you're trying to achieve any special colorings. I'm okay with just a natural color, whatever it turns out like is good. Okay, so we're gonna get the molds ready and we're going to attempt the charcoal pencil line. I'll show you how it goes. So we're gonna use this kind of a container for our soap. I've got some activated charcoal in a little dish here. I'm gonna run it through a sieve so it's not too thick hopefully. Kind of sprinkle it like you would icing sugar or something on top of something. And you don't really want to have your soap in here too evenly, you want to kind of have maybe thicker at one end than the other, just so your line has some kind of different dimensions to it throughout the soap. So I'm gonna try and make a high spot here and there. Still very runny so it's kind of leveling itself up but let's see how this goes. Bring this up to the camera. So I'm just kind of shaking it just like you would icing sugar or something on over a cake. It's gonna be a little darker and lighter in different spots. Then I'm just gonna add some more soap. And hopefully when we do the cut, there's going to be kind of an interesting design or a line from this activated charcoal. Again, I'm trying to make some high spots and some low spots. Then we'll just top it off with another few scoops of soap to kind of give it a good bang so you don't have any air bubbles. Still have some leftover soap here so I'm gonna just dump it into this mold here. I'm not gonna worry about doing the charcoal pencil line in these molds. They have a nice, pretty design to them all on their own. So I'm just putting a bit of a textured design on the top of my soap here in the loaf pan and I will put this into the deep freeze for about 24 hours and then bring it out, let it come to room temperature and it will be ready for the cut. You can see there's a very fine little line of the activated charcoal running through the soap. That's just what we were looking for, just very thin pencil line design. So I wish you could smell the soap because it smells amazing and I'm really happy with how this pencil design turned out in my hot process soap. So if you enjoyed this video, please give it a like, leave a comment and don't forget to subscribe so you don't miss out on future videos coming to my channel. Thanks for watching.