 So I've had a unbelievably long time working on this Sony PVM14N6U project. Now this is one that I've fully restored and I'm gonna jump forward a little bit. I've not finished that restoration video yet, but I did have a huge repair happen right towards the end of this restoration. So I thought it would be more beneficial if I broke the video up and just jumped right into this repair from what happened while I went through and restored this monitor. Now again, this is the first time I've had a chance to work on the N series really on film. So I wanted to make sure I was very thorough. And so I went through and I recapped this entire PVM. Now that's not a huge job by any means. It was less than 60 caps in total. However, once I had everything finished, all my new caps installed, I was putting the monitor back together, which is the footage you're watching right here behind me. And then I went to turn it on and you'll see in a second here kind of the troubles I had, but just I really was wanting to show this to kind of fade to the light, the truth behind some of these repairs where oftentimes you put a lot of time, money and effort into something and it doesn't always work out the first time. It's best to just remember to stay encouraged and hopeful. And that way, hopefully down the line, you could figure things out. But when you're right in the thick of things, sometimes you can get quite frustrated, especially, let me explain a little bit at this point where I had finally gotten this monitor back together and I was ready to test, I was excited. Cause again, I had changed every single capacitor. I'd cleaned the entire tube chassis and everything else. And I was hoping that it would be a pretty simple job of getting it restored from this point on. At least my work would have been downhill where I just would have to do calibrations. But what actually happened was something completely different. So I went to plug it in. Again, right after I had recapped in everything and put it back together and I got nothing. Well, I didn't get nothing. I didn't get any life to the tube. I did hear the DGOS initially ding one time and then it just fizzled out like the power fizzled out on it. And I really didn't know what had happened. So I did look around a little bit and I was really kind of starting to feel pressure and frustration because I thought that I had done everything right. Cause again, this one worked fine before I decided to recap it. I mean, the picture wasn't very nice but everything else on it did work fine. So again, I tried to go through and reseed everything, make sure everything was reconnected. I tried a couple more power tests and I really got nothing. So what ended up being down, after finally just saying, hey, enough is enough, I had to give it an entire night to sleep on so I wouldn't just lose my mind. And the next day I said, it's really time to get in here and inspect the board. Every inch of it to see what I could have done wrong in my repairs. And so, again, this is probably an hour after I had tried to reseed things. I pulled the chassis two or three times just to see if it was sitting against anything or if anything noticeable was wrong but there was nothing noticeable. So I had to go through and just meticulously, visually check every single one of these little connections and after I took the time to do all that, I noticed something that was not right about a certain point here on the board. And that is where the positive end of this capacitor that I did replace was attached. It originally was attached to the board but I noticed that it had gotten completely lifted and it had been lifted from this diode right here. This, there was a thin trace connecting it to the capacitor and then the capacitor was connected to this pad here which actually flowed on down through the monitor a little more. So it needed a new way for that current to flow through the capacitor and then down to this pad here. So I was quite happy to actually find that but I did know that I would have to go in and rebuild that but most likely that's what was causing the issues. And this is after the rebuild. So what I had to do was I stretched out the leg from the other side of that capacitor and when I put heat on it again that entire pad just lifted right off and attached to my soldering iron. So it was definitely just gone. So I stretched the leg of that capacitor. I pulled it through a little bit further and then I just bent it and touched it to the other end of this diode where it should be running the trace. And then I soldered that with plenty of flux. And then I made another bridge with just that leftover end of a capacitor leg from here. It's a here. So that way I was rebuilding that point there. And I felt like this rebuild right here was actually gonna work pretty well. It seemed pretty solid. But again, it was super frustrating. I know it seems easy when you look at it from this video point of view but it took me a good two hours to find this issue after I had tried to test the monitor and it wasn't working. So this is the capacitor on the other side. It's apparently one of the more vital caps in this monitor. C514, but it's not, I mean, this is kind of funny but this one is one of the smallest. I tried to show it there but that's one of the smallest capacitors on the board. It was a 0.47 micro faran. And obviously one of the more vital ones to work. So anyway, after all that, I finally reassembled the PVM and I again had a pretty good feeling this was gonna work but I wasn't 100% certain. So I put all this together. This is one continuous shot. I just wanted to show it so you didn't have to wait for the monitor to warm up but it did work and everything worked fine after that. So that was the issue why I was just getting a straight dead monitor where this went from dead to back to life again all from a tiny trace on a 0.47 micro faran capacitor. So the monitor looks pretty good right now but it does need a lot of adjustments on it. And the picture is quite blurry and muddied a little bit and I will be able to tighten that up. And it definitely has some geometry issues that we need to take care of. So that's gonna be part of a third video. So we'll have, next you will most likely get to see the video where I've initially taken this apart and I do the capacitor replacement and right up to the edge where the beginning of this video is so you'll probably be watching this one first but I thought it would be more beneficial to everybody if they could see this repair video separate from those. Because I'm gonna call this when you bring in that PVM back to life where I thought possibly this was dead I didn't really know what to do but if you do have a situation like this I can't reiterate how important it is to just take a second to step back from the project and even if it was take a night to sleep on things rethink things and then you could come back with maybe a fresh amount of nerves fresh energy and ready to get back and take care of the monitor because now it looks great and it's working perfectly and eventually it's gonna be really crisp up on the picture and then this one will have the full video series and then I will be listing this one for sale. So I just wanted to show though this really quirky little repair and how one little capacitor can really affect the performance of an entire PVM. So anyway, if you guys have any questions or comments please leave them below and again, look for the other two videos coming on this monitor. Thanks again, I'll see you next time with some more retro content.