 okay guys it's been 15 minutes or so and i'm having a bit of a struggle but i'm going to explain to you why am i stuck i always do these without the turbo turbo's out put the engine in less issues because of one thing because of the turbo basically but i mean this thing would be in by now but because of the turbo i decided to try it again okay because it's a wrx usually i do sti's well it kind of is an sti but it's not well the engine bay i guess anyways i'll show you what's going on i'll i'll show you where the struggle is and i'll show you how you can avoid it i just realized by the way uh if your axles are out okay you can remove this stud that you know remember the two studs that stick out from the back of the block that go through the transmission bell housing so you can take one out on the turbo on the turbo side and that's gonna basically and shoot and your struggle and that's what i'm gonna i'm not i'm going to pull this out and i'm going to remove that stud but let me show you exactly what's going on by the way this is why you want to raise the transmission as high as it can go so the engine mounts where is this engine see can clear both sides will clear this front cross member okay and there is the other so although the transmission is literally touching the the tunnel you only have a quarter of an inch space between the you know the stick the sticking down studs and what did i just say cross member yeah engine cradle so you can see that the driver's side bottom stud that's in right sorry through so is the other okay let's look at the other one okay so you can see you can see it is i think you can see it it is through the problem here is this guy here the ear of the turbo the mount not the stud the actual casing of the hot side here is scraping on the transmission housing because that stud is holding it i didn't notice that right away and i couldn't lift usually what i do is because again this this thing you know tilts back and forth but not side to side so you know i mean you rarely can grab it perfectly where the engine's level so mine was tilted to the left a little and that bottom stud on the passenger side wasn't hitting its hole okay and then this ear was underneath the transmission casing the bell housing okay so i didn't see that and usually what i do is if the turbo wasn't here i would just lift i would aim for that or either or you know aim for that stud and then just lift the other keep the engine a bit lower and just lift the other side that's low or you know tilted down and just aim for the stud and then you're done so i'm going to pull this out again not fully just so i can remove that stud i don't want to be removing the turbo i'm going to remove that stud because it's going to be very easy to put it back in because the axles are not installed obviously so it's going to be just right there on the very bottom so once it's out i'm going to show you go through this it's easy once the engine is pulled out i'm just gonna put two 14 nuts on the stud together use two wrenches and just undo that stud i'm gonna do that same procedure to install it okay okay and it's in like a glove two things happened i did not remove that stud that i was talking about on the passenger side what i've done instead was i went for lunch had some chicken soup good chicken soup then i came back and gave it you know one last push and it went in without removing any studs so you got two options either remove the stud or have some chicken soup okay so once it was in i mean it's gotta be tightened obviously i have the one nut on one side and two bolts you're one up here and then one down there so you know we have space between the bolts once i had this much space could not push it in anymore it's probably next to impossible for you on your own or even with the body to push the engine in so what you want to do you want to be lined up obviously you know block to the trans and then you want to put in bolts whatever whichever one reaches at this i mean if you're even all of them should reach and slightly tighten them going going around you know back and forth like i said it's gotta be don't be tightening the two on top here okay just do one on the bottom and then one on top should be enough and went in then hopefully you saw it uh once this was in i just pushed the fork and i felt and i actually also heard i should have recorded that i heard the throat bearing pop in the pressure plate right so now it doesn't want to come back remember before it was straight now it's an angle that means that that's it it's in so i won't be able to push it out okay it's going to be impossible now you can kind of hear its slide on its on the on the lock locking mechanism whatever you want to call that uh so that's tight so yeah i'm still going to bleed the clutch because oh yeah the the slave cylinder is also different okay came with the transmission all right so now i'm gonna spend another 12 hours looking for the rest of the bolts and uh i'm gonna tighten that up curls are in i did those when the engine was still hanging on the hoist this one actually installed nice and straight sometimes for some reason they're angled ever so slightly like by a eighth of an inch or so this one is pretty straight mine is a slightly off for some reason 06 STI but this one this one seems pretty pretty straight man this would suck to do that coil now if i would forget oh man this much room between the coil and the frame this side is slightly better but you know all you got to do is remove the two nuts on the bottom from the engine mounts raise the engine slightly by the oil pan you know through a block of wood whatever and your golden you know just you really want to raise it above the frame as high as possible and you can do spark plugs who said doing spark plugs on a Subaru is difficult just all you gotta do is raise the engine guys got updates the main one is that i'm i'm done it's sunday actually i should be home watching tv all right so quickly that the cylinder for cooling mod you can see the connection right here the t connector so you want to hook up to the black line okay this line here this is your in or we're talking about the heater hoses okay so this goes in from the engine into the heater core you know through the firewall and then comes back through this hole so you want to tap into this guy here so that would be the top one coming from the tire of tire will fire will a little t remember the t this way okay so you know you know the letter t okay so the t this way so the flow goes up and then turns right in this case and goes back into the water pump okay so the hot coolant will exit faster from cylinder number four the problem problematic cylinder number four then we got the starter which is in had to find two bolts shortened one you know these things take time just little you know everything stuff is different now okay there are a lot of bypass coolant bypass these two go into the throttle body to warm it up faster and we don't want that on the track or out across okay I mean it's nice for the engine to warm up faster but once it's warmed up you know hot coolant still passes through the throttle body and you don't want that okay you want you know a cool air as possible going into the engine so that's that that's just going to loop around here like little things okay like this this boot on the starter wire the one that I had on the car was ripped but luckily the one that came with the starter was solid side to switch that which worked out bottom bolts for the motor mounts are tight axles are in okay that was easy oh yeah did replace some of these clamps guys if you have a chance get rid of these okay these are don't reuse them reuse them once when they look good once they're not looking too pretty these are garbage these are from the different snipping actions okay I did snip shortened this so would stay away from the steering shaft so now I have probably about two fingers of worth of space between the this you know the the extra hose from the cylinder for cooling mod and the steering shaft so that's that's fine even if I press on it it's not gonna go because it's attached to this ac line with two zip ties two zip ties that's two zip ties so this area here this is all connected this is done this back area is all done and underneath so this coolant line goes into that little reservoir tank here an up on top and this is part of your pcv system and these two I believe these are the five eights connections these are going to go right here into the bigger line bigger nipple and the wealth cover wealth covers on both sides and this is just to equalize the system you can see the crank is or the crankcase is already connected and it just needs another connection so that's easy and then there's going to be a another kind of like a t connector here and that's going to go into the oil separator can which is going to be right over here that's you know that's later just just letting you know guys if you're going to be interested you know what to watch out next I'm going to try and keep these these videos short as possible like I'm not going to go through it detail by detail like I did on them on my old 6 sti because then it'll be wait we don't want 20 or 30 40 episodes of this no no all right guys that's it for this one if you're interested subscribe comment you know like dislike but you know like and I'll see you soon