 What is this thing dad it's an old road maintainer Joe they used to pull them behind tractors, and even teams of horses to smooth the roads with Granddad had one back on the ranch that he used to grade his roads with See right here this thing was made back in about 1925. This makes it older than granddad. She doesn't look that old Well, it wouldn't look this good Joe, but they took good care of it most pieces of equipment like this ended up in junk yards by now Taking care of equipment is preventive maintenance or it is commonly referred to as PM It is a scheduled system of checking equipment making minor repairs servicing and Documenting both needed and completed repairs the life of equipment depends on good preventive maintenance Good PM starts with being familiar with the operators manual Just because all motor graders or blades do essentially the same job manufacturers don't all recommend the same fluid types or service intervals The location of checkpoints may also vary from one machine to the next. There is no substitute for knowing machine thoroughly There are daily weekly and monthly checks to be made on a blade Of course conditions of the job or the condition of the machine may mean you need to make these checks more frequently The daily checks fall into four categories pre-start warm-up Operating and shut down Use a daily equipment checklist to check off the inspections you've made or adjustments or to list any repairs that are needed Some checks need to be made before the machine is even started Check the fluid levels every day add the right type and amount of engine oil as needed to keep the level on the dipstick between the full and add marks on some blades like this one There's only one dipstick for both transmission and the hydraulic system check it every day and Of course if there are separate dipsticks or site gauges for the transmission and hydraulic system check both oil levels As with engine oil It's very important that only the right type of clean oil be added to bring the hydraulic fluid up to the correct level Important additional inspections are at the battery Periodic cleaning of any corrosion will not only help the battery last longer, but may eliminate some starting problems a Word of caution batteries give off explosive gas so no smoking or open flames should be permitted in this area If needed fill each cell with clean distilled water to the bottom of the filler neck Check the condition of the cables and clamps and be sure the battery is properly secured One more fluid level to check is that of the coolant in the radiator Add clean coolant if needed to the level indicated in the operator's manual This is also a good time to check the radiator cap for cracks or a bad seal Anytime you have to add fluid check for leaks. It could be a bad hose or a loose clamp You should also look at the outside of the radiator and remove any trash that might contribute to overheating and Check the belts hand test for tension and tighten them if they're loose inspect for cracks or signs of wear While you're at the engine compartment look for any other problem areas such as loose or broken wiring Making small repairs as needed is much easier and cheaper than making large ones Drain sediment and water from the fuel tank or the water separator to keep the fuel clean and prevent clogging of fuel system components Make sure the tank's full if it's not fill it up The pre-cleaner the plastic bowl next to the exhaust stack catches most of the dust in the air before it gets to the air filter compartment Dump the pre-cleaner often to keep the air filters from getting plugged After exposure to sunlight the plastic may become quite brittle and will crack easily if bumped against a hard surface So just empty it as necessary The air restriction indicator warns you when to clean or replace the dry type filter element Don't wait until this indicator has been completely tripped before servicing the filters Remove the primary filter and tap it gently on your hand to get out as much dust as possible If tapping does not remove dust use compressed air under 30 pounds per square inch Direct the air up and down the pleats blowing from inside to outside After cleaning check for damage by placing a light bulb inside the filter and rotate it to spot any pin holes Discard and replace any filter that has holes crushed areas or bad seals The inner or secondary filter should not be removed for cleaning It should be replaced according to the schedule in your operator's manual or when the indicator will not reset Even after servicing the primary element Remove any loose dirt in the filter housing canister And replace the primary filter taking care to replace the cover properly A walk around inspection will help you find any obvious problems Check the condition of all tires Deep cuts or excessive tread wear signal trouble just ahead And check the pressure low or uneven pressure cannot only cause steering problems. It also affects tire wear And check for loose or broken wheel lugs while you're at it If the grater is on level ground, this is a good time to check the tandem drive oil level Locate and remove the check plug. The oil level should be even with the bottom of the plug As you walk around the machine keep an eye open for leaks loose parts Damage and buildups of dirt or trash Anything that might affect your safety or the operation of the machine The pivot area should be examined for worn or leaking hoses Check the main frame and draft frame for cracks If the circle is exposed keep it clean and lubricate according to the manufacturer's instructions Pay attention to the mold board the blades and end bits take a lot of wear and tear If they're broken or worn out replace them because if they aren't in good shape you'll damage the mold board Check the scarifier for missing or worn teeth and look the front end over Again look for obvious problems hydraulic leaks cracks and signs of excessive wear Greasing is an important part of preventive maintenance There's a service chart in the operator's manual and usually another one somewhere on the motor grater Use the chart to be sure no fittings get overlooked One point about grease fittings always clean them before greasing Otherwise you'll force dirt into the joint and that's damaging to moving parts Give each fitting on the front end a few shots all steering parts And then there are the mold board lift pivots check each pivot point from one end of the machine to the other Just a couple of shots of grease to each fitting on a daily basis keeps down repair costs and downtime Just one more thing don't skip over missing fittings replace them so no area of the machine gets neglected Some checks can't be made until the machine is running For your safety as you climb into the cab always maintain three points of contact And be sure the steps and cab floor are free of dirt and grease Startup procedures are just about the same for most graders Be sure the parking brake is set and the transmission is in the neutral position Turn on the key and press the starter button if the blade is so quick Take a look at the indicator lights to spot any problem areas and check the gauges to determine if they're within normal operating range Temperature gauges will take a while to start rising But the oil pressure gauge amp meter and fuel gauges should all register within 10 seconds of starting the machine While the machine is warming up to operating temperatures Complete your walk around inspection all lights and turn signals need to be in working order Glass and mirrors are safety items. It's important that you have good visibility Write down any window that needs to be replaced and clean dirty windows and mirrors And then make sure the mirrors are adjusted for you See the windshield wipers are in good working condition Wedding the glass first before turning on the wiper blades Help keep the blades from rubbing grit and grime into the glass and scarring it Clean out any loose objects in the cab and then check the seat arm rests and safety belt Eight hours can seem like forever if you're not comfortable Buckle up and check your brakes move forward a short distance and step on the brake pedal Then as you back up listen for the backup alarm It should be loud enough to be heard above the engine noise This important safety item protects your co-workers in the work zone The horn is another warning device that needs to be working Now try out the hydraulic controls such as the blade lifts pitch and circle side shift to make sure everything is working properly Any erratic responses need to be investigated If this machine isn't performing well, it will really make a difference in the quality of your work Preventive maintenance doesn't end when you start down the road to the work site Operating checks continue all through the day A glance at the gauges now and then should alert you to any potential problems Either a rising temperature gauge or a drop in oil pressure may signal major problems that you'll want to check out immediately A good operator stays alert to any changes in performance or unusual noises while he's running the motor grader Stop and investigate when anything unusual happens Whenever you stop during the day, it's a good idea to give the whole machine a quick once over before you get back to work Check it again for leaks loose parts and so on If something's wrong either fix it yourself or if there's a major problem shut down and tell your supervisor Shutting down correctly is the final part of daily preventive maintenance procedures Let the engine idle for seven to ten minutes to let it cool down gradually Don't just cut off a hot engine unless it's an emergency While you're waiting, it's a good time to clean the mold board of any material that is accumulated during the day Then turn the engine off and fill the fuel tank Filling it at night keeps condensation from forming in the tank overnight If it's at all possible park on level ground Be sure to leave the transmission in neutral and set the parking brake Lower the mold board and scarifier to the ground and shut the machine off After securing the machine leave the key in a safe place Normally the daily preventive maintenance routine for blades shouldn't take you more than a few minutes And those few minutes can save a lot of hours of repair time and downtime As well as a lot of repair dollars And for you the professional operator it means a better working safer blade to run