 Hi you guys! Welcome back to another video for Butterick 6873. This is the sew-along that we are working on. This is the Sew-along Workbook. It's free. If you haven't already, please download it. That is what we're going to be using and what we have been using to kind of get through the sew-along in a timely manner. Stay organized, stay on top of everything. So far we have done all our prep work and sewn our bodice and our sleeves. Today we're going to be sewing the skirt. Sewing the skirt, attaching whatever ruffle we're going to do and also attach the skirt to the bodice. So it seems like a lot. This is a very straightforward little pattern. So we're going to fly right through it. Let's get to the sew-along. All right, so for our skirts, no matter which version you're making, A, B, or C, we are all starting with sewing our center back seam together. So the center back seam together. So the center back seam together. And then also attaching the front skirt sections to the back. So you can see that here. Well, this is, wait, this is here for A, here for B, and then here for C. Why they didn't combine all three of these? I have no idea. But those are going to be our first two steps before we move on to attaching the ruffle or hemming if you're making Vue C. So I am making A, wait, what am I making? I'm making B with a ruffle of A. So my pieces should be six and seven. So I need to pull those out. I've got seven here. And my fabric is already right sides together. So I just need to come in here. There should be three notches. Yes, three notches right here. That's the center back side. And just pin these together. Sew and search. And then while we're over there, we are going to also attach pieces, the six, six pieces, pieces six, piece six. What am I trying to say? To the side seams, which are opposite the center back. So these are our side seams right here, this one and this one. And those get attached to this. Mine is a little bit more angular, remember, because I shortened mine, but the side opposite the round. So if you're not making the rounded version and all your pieces are like triangles, just pay close attention to the notches. You'll have three in the center back. You'll have one on the sides. And the front shouldn't have any at all, I believe. Yeah, the front doesn't have any at all. So so and search, basically your whole skirt together. Okay, once your skirt is sewn, surged, press the side seams to the back. And then we can start working on our ruffle. If you're making view A, it's this like curvy one, like I cut out view B is this big straight block. And then view C doesn't get a ruffle at all, you just hem the bottom. So no matter whether you're doing the curved ruffle or the straight one, they all come together the same way. So we are going to be taking our back ruffle here, or back ruffle here, so 10 or 15, and sewing them along the what will be the center back edge, basically. So that is 10. She's here, like so. All right, and we have two of them, you should have cut two of them on the fold. This is the right side. And then this is the right side, they come together like this. And then along one of the edges, you have your notches, and you just sew and surge along that edge. And then as you guessed you're also going to sew the front portions to these back portions as well. So once you get your back ruffle, the center back zone. And now you need to attach these ruffles. If you're doing the big square ruffles, no problem, just put one on each side, they're the same length. But your curved ruffles, the right is longer than the left. So you have to make sure that you get them on the correct side of the back. If your back seam, center back seam of the ruffle is facing up, it's like the left and right in sewing patterns is the wearer's left and right. So if you have your fabric face up, that's as if you're wearing it, and it's wrapped around your body. I don't know, this is getting sort of confusing. But just pin it together and then wrap it around your body and make sure you have it done correctly. But if the center back seam is the right side is up, then your right hand side of the back ruffle should be the right hand side of your front ruffle. I'm making that so confusing. I'm sorry. I'm trying to explain it best I can. Best to do is, like I said, just pin them together, wrap it around your body and make sure that the right side is the right side and the left is the left. But if you're trying to make sense of it in your head first, it's your right side, your actual right side, while you are sewing this, while you're pinning this, is the right side of the back ruffle so long as the center back seam is facing up. Does that make sense? Oh man. Okay, so pin, insert, and press these together. Okay, once you've got that done, the lower curved edge or the lower edge of your big rectangular band, if you're doing the normal band, needs to be hemmed. So this is not for the faint of heart. So you just start on one end and go one and a quarter inches all the way around. Again, you can pre-surge this, which I should have gone ahead and done. I'll do that now before I press it up. Or if you don't have a serger, then you are pressing it up the entire hem allowance, which is five eighths, and then you're tucking this under by a little by like a quarter. And so you'll have a three eighths inch fold over when you're done. Okay, so it's a slow, long, tedious process. Just put on a program, put on some music, put on an audiobook, and just slowly make your way around the entire lower edge of your ruffle. Hem it. And you can go ahead and stitch this hem as well. This isn't one of those that we were just pre-pressing the hem in. Okay, I'm not going to bore you with all of this. This would be like the most boring video in the universe if I made you watch all of this. So I'll come back when this is all done. Okay, so the next step is to gather the top of our ruffle. What I'm going to do is start the gathering stitches, which if you don't know, it's two rows of stitches at the longest stitch length that your machine will do. For me, that is a 5.0 stitch length. You do one for a five eighths inch seam allowance. You do one at three eighths of an inch and one just past five eighths, like seven eighths. That way, all of your gathers kind of gather in between those two stitch lines. And when you go to, or sorry, all your gathers gather between those two gathering stitches. And when you go to stitch it at the five eighths inch seam allowance, it catches in between those two gathering lines and you just get more even gathers. Okay, so I'm going to do them in panels. So I'm going to do, you know, the front, the, I guess this would be the right front from the little corner here to the first vertical seam. And then I'm going to do probably, oh man, all of the back. Maybe I'll do the back in two parts too, just stopping it at the center back again. So that would be another big chunk from vertical seam to vertical seam. And then a third big panel from the center back to the left front. Or I guess that would be the left side seam. And then I'll do the left one all by itself. So I'm going to have one, two, three, four big chunks of gathering stitches starting and stopping them, leaving big tails at both ends so that I can pull them, make them even, spend a little bit of time on this, you guys. You definitely want to like just put on a movie and really try and make it as even as possible before we go to attach this to our skirt. So two rows of gathering stitches, long tails at the end. And then go ahead and start gathering those up by pulling on the bobbin threads. Get your machine set to a 5.0 stitch length, put the straight raw edge of your ruffle at the 7 eighths mark, drop your needle, and stitch to that first side seam. Okay, go to your first side seam, lift your needle, and then pull out a long tail of thread again, clip that, and then come back to where you started. And we're only going to sew half an inch from this original gathering stitch, which will also coincidentally be 3 eighths of an inch from the raw edge. Fractions are fun. Okay, so then drop your needle again and stitch along that raw edge again. Okay, and now you can see our two rows of gathering stitches. Then you will just grab your bobbin threads, which for me are these ones underneath. Okay, and as you start to pull on these, you can see that that raw edge starts to gather. Rinse and repeat this for the other four panels, and then I'll meet you back where we can attach this to the lower edge of our skirt, and have our skirts completely done at that point. But basically, you get your two anchoring points pinned, which for us are our side seam and our center back seam. So we know that this piece now has to fit in this little area. So you just start smooshing this out, spreading it out with your fingers until the two things come together. Now, this is a pretty roughly situation for lack of a proper term. So the gathers are going to stay pretty close together, right? And just kind of like eyeballing it, keeping them tight, but also even, come through and pull up and let out as much as you need. This might need to be pulled up some more. It's kind of like a little bit of trial and error. Some people find this fun. I find this annoying, but I do love the result of a ruffle. So I'll spend the time doing it. So again, just come through, make sure these are even when you get close or close enough. Go ahead and start pinning all around until where these two things are even. And the most important thing is that this skirt piece stays flat. It can be very easy as you're pinning up the ruffles to kind of like ease them in together. You really don't want that. If it helps for you to measure the length of this and then make sure that that length is still the same, do that. Otherwise, you'll have kind of like a skirt that feels really tight at this area and you can't figure out why. And it's just simply because your fabric was not as flat as it absolutely possibly could be whenever you attach this ruffle. It's almost better if like the ruffle piece is a little bit too big. Do you know what I'm saying? So this is very, very close for me. So I am going to go ahead and start pinning these in. And as you do, again, you want to make sure everything is straight up and down and nice and flat and pretty. And then you just stitch it at your five eighths inch seam allowance and then surge that seam. All right. And real quick, as you're coming around the left side, the, you can't see mine, but it's right here. See this big dot's for a left front only. So the right front comes up, I don't know, three inches or so higher than the left ruffle. So get your whole ruffle done. Try and keep your sanity while you do it. Okay. The last little thing that you have to do with your skirt is the raw edge that's above where the ruffle is attached. So this is the left side where it's longer. We just have to hem that. So you just fold it over along the seam line, hem it. It should kind of turn into what is the seam for the, for the ruffle part. And then you can start attaching it to your bodice. And this is how that comes together. It's just matching up side seams and raw edges. Okay. Once you get past the side seam, this gets turned back at the seam line like so. There is a dot that is on your bodice front that is five eighths from the raw edge, this little raw edge here. So come in five eighths and that's where this little thing goes. And then everything else in the middle gets eased in. There's a little notch here to help you match. And then these two things just get lined up. It should go in pretty easily. You shouldn't be working too hard at this. The hard part with that ruffle is over. All right. So first things first, I'm just going to hem this little guy here. This is the right side and then repeat for the left side. We're just kind of doing, I don't know, a little baby hem. And then if you want, this can go down into a top stitch. I'm just going to have it kind of go disappear into nothing. Okay. And then it gets attached to your skirt and we just sew all around the waistline. Okay. It's really coming together at this point. We kind of have a dress. The little frill thing I turned out, I think turned out so cute. So we need to press the seams. The waist seam gets pressed toward the bodice and the ruffle seam gets pressed toward the skirt. Yes. And then go through and with a seam ripper, remove the basting stitches that were sewn at the seven eighth seam allowances, the ones that you can actually see. Just go in and pull all of those out so that they aren't visible. But you can see there how it kind of like the difference between this and this. Do these kind of relaxes them a little bit, especially in this linen? Okay. I'm telling you, these little ruffles add such a big difference to a simple pattern, right? They make them so much fun. And I think that's why I love ruffles so much. Simple, easy to do, easy to execute, and create so much fun and flair. Again, I don't want to hold up my dress because I am so paranoid that that bias line is going to stretch out. I've talked about it so much. Somehow I feel like I'm going to screw it up still. But it's over there resting. We're not touching it. I'm barely even looking at it because tomorrow is when we finally, finally sew the facing onto the bias on the front. So that will finally be stabilized and won't be going anywhere. So tomorrow, if we're following along the workbook day three, we're going to be finishing up our dress really. We're doing the facings and doing the little buttonhole application so it stays closed. And then you might be making a sash, but I'm going to try something new and different for me that I've never done before. And that is to make a fabric self-covered belt. So that should be fun. But meet me back here tomorrow when we finish up sewing the dress. Butteryx 6873.