 This is Steve and this is Steve's CR6SE from Kickstarter. We're gonna check this printer out today. My name's Jim and this is the Edge of Tech. So like I said, today we're gonna be checking out Steve's CR6SE. How's it going, Steve? Doing very good. How about you? I'm doing great. You let me play with this printer today when we're actually gonna walk through the unboxing and the assembly and some special tips for the CR6SE. But first, how long have you been 3D printing? I've been 3D printing for probably about six years or so. I started out with the good old printer bot, Metal Plus. And that printer worked for me for a couple years, but by the time I needed to fix some parts on it, the company went out of business. So I ended up getting into the Ender 3 and this is now my next FDM printer. Nice, so a printer bot to an Ender 3, if we look back, that's a huge price difference. I mean, the printer bot was like 1200 bucks. The Ender 3 was probably like 230 bucks when you bought it. And how is the print quality? The print quality was a huge difference. I actually have a couple parts at work that were printed on that original printer and the same parts I printed on the Ender were way better. Nice, and that's amazing how far printers have come from that original printer bot. So Steve is actually the reason why I got into 3D printing. He got his Ender 3 and then I was like, I need to check this out. So, I don't know, three, four months later, we were talking a lot about it and we can blame him for all of the 3D printers and all of the channel and everything because it's really your fault. It is my fault that I got into 3D printing. So tell me about the Kickstarter. So you back the Kickstarter. I thought about this printer when it first was introduced and I thought, hey, this is gonna be an excellent upgrade for me. And so the data went live. I was number 404 on the program. So my printer shipped on August 20th and I just received mine a couple days ago which was September 3rd. September 3rd, so today is September 5th. So that means he's held the box for two days before we could film this. So a couple things we can get out of the way right away. Number one, no smoke, we'll knock on wood. As you can see, there is a test print here on the printer. We did a little 10 by 10 by 50 test print because it was quick and we wanted to show that it printed. He's actually gonna take this home and do a lot more printing with it. But I really think building this thing went very smoothly. Everything went together like it should. Everything and the instructions were really good. Even the touchscreen seems to be working pretty good from the factory. And I'm really excited to see a lot of the prints that you get. So hopefully you send it to me and I'll shoot them out on the social medias for everybody to see. But today what we're gonna do is we're gonna open the box. We're gonna go through what comes in it and we're gonna assemble it. And we're gonna give you some special tips while you're assembling your CR6SE just to make sure everything is safe. So I think we should jump into the unboxing. What do you think? I think it was a good idea. All right, let's unbox it. All right, so we got the CR6SE on the bench. It's time to get this bad boy opened up. Steve's got his knife. And we're gonna cut this thing open and check it out. So we got the top and the packing. We're gonna pull that out. So right on top we got instructions, starting G-code it looks like, your instructions looks like, everything else is packed in here pretty well. We will take out that, is that it? Oh, wow, that is filament. That's a full box kilogram of filament. Nice, thank you, Creality, for sending a real-size roll of filament, a spool of filament. So what we're gonna do is we're gonna get this all unboxed and we're gonna lay it out on the bench here and let's get this thing built. All right, so we got it all unboxed. We have the base, which has your bed and it looks like it's kind of wrapped around some cables. We have our gantry, which is awesome. It's all put together for us. So it has your dual-Z. It has some extra parts, which it looks like a whole bunch of nozzles. And another sensor, we gotta check into this. I think it's a replacement for this one from what Steve was saying. An extra boat and tube. We have all of our parts that we're gonna put it together with, which is compared to an Ender 3, is nothing. That's gonna be super easy to do. We have our spool holder. We have the screen. We have the handle. And of course, the full box, the full spool of white PLA filament. That is awesome because a lot of times you get those little baby spools and it's not enough to print much, except for maybe the first test print. So we're gonna get this thing assembled. Let's do it. So before we start assembling, we're gonna do a couple safety checks. The first one being on the cables that are behind our power plug here. And essentially all we're gonna do is grab our Allen wrench. You can use the one that came with the kit. I just like this one. And we're gonna take out these two screws. And this is just for peace of mind. There's a few people that found that they weren't all the way plugged in. And I believe we're just gonna slide it out real carefully here. And on the back here, it's hard to see in this camera angle. On the back, there's all these connectors. Just make sure all of them are pushed in tight and that none of them are loose. It is actually a very short lead. So you can't really pull it out much further than this. But you can get your fingers in here and just make sure they're all tight. We got them all pushed in. They were all really good from the factory, but we double checked and we screwed our screws back in. Now we're gonna turn this thing and check the switch. Next thing we need to check is to make sure our power selector is correct. In this case, it did come on the 230 side. It needs to be over here on the 115 side for the US. So we're just gonna use our Allen wrench and push it over. Now it's on the 115 side and we're good to proceed. Steve was watching Joel Telling's video, the 3D printing nerd, and he actually opened this up and checked the connections and made sure from the factory that everything was tight in here. So what we're gonna do now is pop this cover off and let's just make sure everything on the board is tight just so we're safe from the beginning. I believe it's these three screws and there might be one from the top we need to take out too. We're gonna start by taking these three screws out. I'll let you do the honors, how about that? And again, we're just gonna check and make sure everything on the board is tight and connected like it should be. You don't have to do this. It's always good practice, especially from this printer coming with some of the connections loose as we saw in some other videos. So it looks like there is one on the top side that we need to loosen too. So we flipped the printer back upright and this is the front of the printer. This screw here is what we wanna take out. I believe to get that bottom case out. When we do that, we just heard everything fall from the bottom. So this might be a good idea to do that one first and then flip your printer over and do the bottom three. In this case, we didn't know which one it was gonna be so we did it opposite. Now we're gonna carefully flip the printer back over and see what we got. So we got it flipped back over and this is actually that cover we were working on. I moved it closer to the camera so we could see. So take that cover off there and we gotta be very careful cause there's a fan connected. Actually what's really nice is they left us enough room to pull that off without disconnecting your fan. That is awesome. Usually it's really short and you gotta be careful. Now we got that cover off. This is actually our fan cable here but I zoomed in so we could actually look in here. So this is the board and these are all the connections we wanna go through and just make sure everything's tight and secure. It looks like there is hot glue on. That's a classic creality move. Our cables here are all pressed in. In the back along here, you can't really see them cause it's kind of hidden but all those cables look like they're pressed in as well. I'm just pulling on the power here and making sure that's all tight and that's all tight. Kind of hard to read but up in here you can see this is actually a version 452 board, 4.5.2. I'm not sure what they're all coming with but I'm imagining it's probably this board but that's the board we got is the 452. So we're gonna put this back together, get these three screws back in and then the screw from the top and start the assembly. So the really cool thing about the CR6SE is that we're gonna take the gantry and actually set it right in these grooves and as long as those grooves are cut correctly then the gantry should sit actually almost perfectly straight up and be in place. So let's go ahead and set it right there and I'll hold it just like that and it should just sit right in those grooves on both sides. Then what we wanna do is take our two screws and push them up through the bottom and to do that I like to slide my printer over to the side just like this and screw in the bolts from the bottom on both sides. So once we got two bolts in this side and the two bolts in this side everything should be tightened up nicely and when it's all tightened up nicely it should be really nice and sturdy. There should be no wobbling back and forth, nothing should rock and now it's about as sturdy as it gets. Then we go on to the screen in the bottom right side it takes two bolts and that's pretty easy to do just put those both in. Then we go on to the spool holder and we just twist the spool holder into the top just like this and then it's super easy all you have to do is clip it right into the extrusion and it kind of clips in just like that and I really like this thing. It's cool because you can just fold it back when you're not using it. Now we go on to the sweet handle, put the t-nuts in, position it right on the top of the machine like right in the center of that Creality logo and then you'll be able to tighten it right down and you're good to go there. Now we use the belt tensioner on this side to tighten the belt, forward tightens it, backwards loosens it and just make sure it's good and tight. On the Y-axis we want to do the same thing use the tensioner to make the belt tight then make sure your bed slides really nicely it doesn't wobble, if it does you want to adjust the eccentric nuts underneath. Now what we need to do is connect all of our cabling the first one we're going to do that comes right up here and it plugs into our breakout box there. So the second cable that's left here comes up from behind, goes underneath here. You want to make sure it's underneath the top here and then right into the top where the hot end is these two clips pull out the plug goes in and then it actually comes down and pinches your clips in and that's that. So now we're clipped in here. Now that we got that on we're going to do some cable management back here. So there's a clip that is right behind here where Steve is pushing that in and the cable will slide into there and then along your boat and tube there are these little coupler clips here. It's kind of like a twist tie and you push it up and then you twist there we go twist them back in. I like these because it's floating it'll actually allow it to move. Now that you got them on he's going to space them apart a little bit so hopefully it keeps everything nice and centered and aligned but the cool thing is it's going to allow it to float in here so they're going to move when you start printing those are going to move anyway. Next we're going to do our Z-access motors so we take off the adhesive here and Steve's going to do his side and I'm going to do my side and basically you just put them straight into the motors and make sure they're tight. Now we do the Z-end stop which is right here so we peel the adhesive away and we plug that in Z-end stop is plugged in now and we go to the screen. So we tip the printer up and this is the back of the screen. So this is the screen here this is where the plug goes the plug is right here. So all we do is take that plug and we push it right into the back there's only one spot it can go in and it's done just like that. Now what we want to do is take the plastic off of the bed and this is a Creality glass bed so Steve is going to loosen the clips and these are pretty awesome clips I really like that and he's just going to kind of pull that glass out of those back clips and peel the plastic off and this is the, ah, moment. Boom, check it out, wow. So he's peeling the plastic off and we should have a brand new glass Creality surface. Now that the plastic's off we do need to clean this we're going to use IPA and a microfiber and so we're going to spray it on there and just wipe it off real good because there's always a film that comes from the factory when they do these. Actually if you use paper towel most of the time it's actually a yellow film as well. So what I'm doing now is we raise the X-Gantry all the way up here and I'm going to measure both sides when we do the X-Gantry rework try to get this within one millimeter of each other and I'm just curious what it is from the factory. So I'm going to measure from right here up to the top it looks like about 83 millimeters and if I come over here and I do the same thing it looks like it looks like it's about 83, 84 millimeters. So I would say that's definitely within the one millimeter variation we see and we want with our X-Gantry rework and that's awesome to see from the factory there's nothing we really need to do here because it's definitely dialed in the dual Z should help keep it there but I definitely wanted to measure that in our process. If this happens to be way off here you can adjust it by turning your Z motor here to fix the arm to match and you want to do that so you're within one millimeter on each side. Now we're going to plug in the printer on the side over here and we're going to turn this thing on for the first time as you can see the Creality splash screen it'll go through the loading process and there's a little bar that goes across which is awesome. The menu came up I can hear fans running and so far so good no smoke. The next step in the instruction manual is to actually do the auto leveling. So in the main screen here in the bottom right corner is a level button Steve's going to press the level button and then there's an auto leveling button after that so he's going to press it and after the buttons pressed it needs to heat up and it says it needs to heat up to 120 C and then it can start leveling so we're going to let this heat up and we'll be right back as soon as it's done. Just about to temp here it's about 120 degrees so it honed forward and it honed to the side so the Y and the X honed the Z is actually coming down as we talk so we're just about to the Z homing here it just hit the center and it did the bounce and now it should start the auto leveling sequence so it goes to the front and it should do four points across oh it goes backwards so it went to the front and it's going backwards to do the leveling I'm used to seeing them go this way in this case it's actually going this way so we're going to let it level and as soon as it's done leveling we'll check the mesh and see how it looks. As it's leveling it's actually going very quick as you can see I zoomed in a little bit to show it up a little closer but it's really cool how it works and we're going to see how the mesh looks in just a second here it was really fast it actually leveled very quickly so these are all the different points that it hits like I said there's 16 of them it tells you up here it needs to wait till it's 120 degrees C which it still is currently and then when it's done this is how your screen looks something to point out before we heat up is the tray right here so if you actually pull that tray open it's got a lot of cool stuff in there so we got the tray open after we pulled it out and it's got a lot of cool stuff for one it's got a pretty cool little spatula here for getting prints off the bed and then if you take the foam out everything else is packed in your foam and it's really cool you have your micro SD card, your SD card reader and a nozzle wrench a miniature nips here, a snipper it's not like the blue one we usually see from Crowdy it's a miniature one this is your SD card here you actually get a real wrench which I think is pretty awesome you actually get a real wrench this time instead of a little guy and then your allen wrenches are actually a real set of allen wrenches in a little holder there and that's pretty cool and then of course your nozzle cleaning needle that's what that is is to clean your nozzle out so we'll push the tray back in and we go to preheat so this is our auto level screen we're going to hit the back button and we're going to preheat the nozzle now so if you go back to the main menu here and then go to prepare and preheat PLA there you go what it's going to do is set our bed at 60 and our nozzle at 200 and it's going to preheat and then we're going to load some filament in so we're going to grab some filament in this case I'm going to use Arian silk blue because it's really nice color and it's going to show up really nice for our first test print I'm going to toss that on a spool holder and in a second here I'm going to zoom in so you can actually see the load process on the CR6SE here alright so I zoomed in and this is our extruder assembly up here and this kind of works different than the normal printers that we've been seeing so the first thing we need to do is actually release the hatch that's what we'll call it the hatch so you pull the lever out and that releases inside of here so we can actually push our filament in so then what we did was cut this at a really good angle just like we would any other printer we're going to throw it through the filament run out sensor carefully and then when it gets to that side Steve will fish it into the hole there and it can be a pain there we go perfect so then you push it through your extruder down through your boat and tube like normal and we'll push it all the way down into the hot end until it starts coming out of the nozzle down there just enough so we know it's pushed in soon as you see your filament coming out of the nozzle then what you'll do is flip the little lever there and that locks everything into place and that'll engage the extruder so we should be good to go now so as you can see here we were pushing the blue through and there's a bunch of black filament already in here so that means they did test this printer from the factory at some point we'll take that out and you can actually see there that's the blue and then you can see the black attached to it so it was tested from the factory which is a good thing now we want to put our memory card in and the slot is actually behind this sticker here so we're gonna peel that sticker off and that will reveal the SD card slot and it's a full-size SD card which is awesome and I believe it goes face up just like that, perfect so if you saw that the SD card is actually upside down and that's how it goes in it clicked in and locked in place now let's do a test print so we're back at the main menu here on the control panel and what we're gonna do is actually a test print and the SD card we're using is using the pre-production files that came from Kickstarter it is not using the one that came with the printer but we're gonna see what's on those files so we're gonna hit print and we're gonna choose that 10 by 10 by 50 print right there because I think that's gonna be a good fast one for us to see on the video here and when we're ready I believe we just hit the print button and we're off so we did the auto home and it looks like the files are gonna start in this case it is not set to a G29 to do that auto leveling again so that's interesting so it started printing it has a skirt and it's just a little 10 by 10 by 50 tower and we're gonna let this go and let it print here it is sticking on the first try the print looks really good so far the G code on the test print did not have that bed leveling again so we've only done it once and we did not do it before this one I personally would just do a G29 before every print probably because it's very quick but in this case we did not do that we're gonna let it run and we'll check out the print when it's ready so we're at about 62% and it's getting taller and taller the print still looks very good and we're almost done all right the print got done it actually slid the bed back and moved the hot end over the interesting thing about this print is it was all hollow and it actually put a top on it so if we look at the top of the print it actually filled in and bridged very nicely there at the top the whole print looks really good the layers look good this is just a really quick way for us to test everything it looks really good here Steve's gonna take this home and do some more testing so you just saw the unboxing the assembly and the setup and of course the test print that we did on the CR6SE and again this was Steve's CR6SE I didn't get one I'm very jealous but he has graciously allowed us to film it today so he brought it over to the shop here what was one cool thing about the assembly on this printer that you didn't see on your original Ender 3? I think the coolest thing was the ease of building there was only a few major parts that needed to be assembled with just some very basic tools and very minimal screws to put it together and so I think that was a huge plus in this case yeah I mean it was really four bolts to put the gantry on which is awesome then it was two bolts for your screen and I think two bolts for the handle so it was like eight bolts and that's pretty awesome one of the things that I really liked and I said this about the Ender 3 v2 is I really like the belt tensioners it makes it super easy to tension your belts just don't go overboard it's very easy to go overboard on these belt tensioners the other thing I really liked is how fast the bed leveling was it did 16 points in a super fast amount of time which was really cool to see from the factory because a lot of times it does nine and it's really slow another thing I wanted to point out in the beginning of the video we were looking at an open box and I was like what is this? well it turned out to be a full spool of Creality White PLA filament I think this is awesome I think this should be in every printer because the test spools you usually get barely get any use because it's not enough filament really to do anything if you get a whole spool here just like this from Creality I really think that's a great way to test your printer and if you're new you might not even know you need to order filament right away so thank you Creality for doing this because I mean this is awesome I know you're gonna put this to good use the only thing that I would change on this build is actually how the spool holder sits it tells you to put the holder facing the back that way it can fold back nicely the problem I have is that it sits so far back here you can see it's kinda pulling the filament forward I think Steve is actually gonna reverse it so that the spool holder sits here because that's more of a direct path I'm not a fan of that I think it's gonna pull off depending on the spool it could definitely pull filament right off the side and I'm not a huge fan of that but that's easily fixed because all you have to do is take this off and push it in the front the other thing I thought was cool was the locking clip here that locks your cabling into the hot end I think that's really cool because then you know it's not gonna come loose there's two claws that come and lock it in I definitely appreciate Steve letting us film this today because again I didn't get one and I'm pretty jealous number 404 on Kickstarter let us know in the comments below do you have one and what number of Kickstarter were you I know he was one of the last ones they shipped and they shipped a whole lot before his so I know he was waiting for a long time but again thank you for sharing this with us thank you for letting us build it on camera and holding it in the box for two days because I know that's hard to do when you get a new printer well I hope you learned something today and as always keep printing hey everybody I hope you liked the video if you did give me that thumbs up hit that subscribe button right here and the little bell if you want to get notified next time we go live on Monday nights for hot makes or when my next video comes out have you seen this one