 Hello everyone and welcome back to my channel LaModulist. Today, I will demonstrate the sewing tutorial for the David comma and part top that we did previously and in this tutorial, I will also cover some sewing techniques that you can also apply to any of your sewing projects. So let's dive in. These are some of the tools and materials I've prepared to achieve the David comma top. White heavy crepe fabric for about one yard. Silk lining also one yard. Hair cloth for fusing also one yard. Underwear tricot lining, I will only use a small piece for the midriff part. Under wire or boning channeling, I've pre-cut it into seven pieces. Tailors chalk, dressmaker spins, pattern weights, bust hem or bust ball, regular pencil, fabric shears. A lint stiffened quickspray, I will use this for the tricot fabric to stiffen it. Iron for pressing and fusing. Half yard of plastic boning. A lighter to mold the boning. Jacket zipper and my trusty sewing machine. As you can see, I've already put sewing allowances to each of my patterns. For the side seams, center back and shoulder slope. I've used 4 eighths of an inch or 1.27 centimeters. For the under bust seams, necklines, armholes, hem and back dart, I've used 2 eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. At the hem of the front midriff, I will remove 2 eighths of an inch or 0.6 centimeter sewing allowance. Next at center front at hem, I will mark out 1 4 eighths inches or 3.8 centimeters. From this mark, I will connect a line towards the notch at under bust seam, previously waist dart. From the notch at under bust, mark out 2 to 8 inches or 5.7 centimeters. And from the first mark near center front, mark out 1 6 eighths inches or 4.5 centimeters. And connect these two marks creating a diagonal line. Next from side seam, mark out 4 eighths of an inch or 1.27 centimeters. And square a line like so. From center front, mark in the half of the width of the boning channeling. For example, half centimeter. This measurement will depend on the width of your boning channeling. Next, connect marks by squaring a line. These lines represent where I will place the boning channeling. And by the way, notch these lines while cutting it on your transparent fabric. For the bust stop and back patterns, I will cut them on my crepe fabric. I've also marked the bust points, back darts, and notch the darts. I've also cut the bust stop and back patterns on my lining and interfacing fabrics. So before I cut the midriff, I'll spray first the stiff and quick spray on my tricket fabric. And give my fabric a press to stiffen it. I will also fold this in half and press. Next, I will place my midriff pattern on the fold of my fabric. By the way, guys, do not forget to notch the channeling placement lines before cutting. As you can see, I have already marked the boning placement lines using my tailor's chalk. Using my chalk, I will square in the boning placement lines, just like what I did earlier on the pattern. After that, I will carefully place the channeling on the placement lines and paint the channeling onto the midriff, like so. After painting the channeling onto the midriff, I will sew it like so. To sew the channeling, I have used a compensating presser foot. This presser foot will help me sew the edges of the channeling neatly. After sewing the channeling to the midriff, I will give it a press to remove the chalk markings. And here is the midriff, fully assembled with boning channelings. I have also removed the excess of the channeling. Before sewing the darts, I will use first the haircloth interfacing through my main fabric. And to sew the darts, I will only draw one sewing line reference to each one. From the notch of the dart, I will square in a line towards the bust point. I will do this to the rest of the front and back darts. Next, I will match the notches and fold the dart until the bust point. And pin everything in place. And there you go, this is how to prepare the darts before sewing. And I'll do the same procedure to the rest of the self and lining darts. Next, I will sew the darts exactly at the sewing line reference. Next, I will remove the excess of the front darts. From the line reference, mark out weights of an inch or 0.6 cm. And I will also do the same procedure for the lining. Next, I will also sew the waist darts of the back self. And the waist darts of the back lining as well. After that, I will press the front and back darts to keep it flat and neat. Next, I will attach the front bust top to the midriff. To do this, at the center of the front bust top, I will clip it but not beyond the sewing allowance. And face both front bust top and midriff right side to right side. And pin in place at the under bust seam. I'll start sewing at one side first, stopping at the middle. And continue sewing at the other side. And this is how it looks like. So basically, it's like sewing an inverted sweetheart neckline. And this is how it looks like at the back. Next, I will attach the lining. And this is how it looks like with the lining attached. Next, I will press the under bust seam to keep it flat and neat. And I will topstitch at the under bust seam by 1 mm to combine the self and the lining together. To sew the neckline, I have to face both lining and self together right side to right side as demonstrated. And pin the necklines in place in preparation for sewing. I will sew the self and lining necklines according to my allowance, which is 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. And I will clip or snip the curve the seam of the neckline to lay it flat. Next, I will turn this around like so. Next, I will push all of the seams at the lining side and give the neckline seam a press. And topstitch the lining side by 1 mm from the seam line. And again, give the front neckline a press to lay it flat. And I will do the same procedure for the back pieces. Next, I will attach front and back shoulder slopes together. To do this, open the back and front bodice. Match the neckline seams together as demonstrated. And pin at the shoulder slope in preparation for sewing. And I will sew the shoulder slope according to my allowance, which is 4.8 of an inch or 1.27 centimeters. I will cut off the intersection between the neckline and the slope to avoid bulking. Next, I will press the seams open for a clean finish. Before we prepare the armholes for sewing, let's mark out 5.8 of an inch or 1.6 centimeters at the underarm of the back bodice. We will stop sewing at this mark to properly attach the back, self and lining to the side seam. Next, roll one side of the bodice towards the first armhole that we will sew. And then grab both lining and self armholes and turn to face right side to right side. Push everything inside before sewing as demonstrated and match the shoulder slope seamline. And pin the armhole in place in preparation for sewing. And as you can see, I skipped the 5.8 inch mark and proceeded to sewing the armhole. And clip or snip the allowance of the armhole to lay the seams flat. And turn everything inside out. And press the armhole for a clean and neat finish. Next, to insert the boning, I'll simply place it on top of the channeling and cut the boning like so. And decrease its size by 5.8 inch or 1.6 centimeters. I decreased the boning size to have a space for the sewing of the bias tape at the hem. Next, I will use a lighter to mold the sharp edges of the boning as demonstrated. And insert the boning inside the channeling. And I will do the same thing to the rest of the boning and channeling. To sew the hem, I will cut a bias tape on my fabric about 1 inch or 2.5 centimeters thick. I will pin the bias tape at the hem in preparation for sewing. Next, I will sew the bias tape to the hem by 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. And next, I will give the bias tape a press for a clean look. And again, I will sew the bias tape by 1 millimeter away from the seam line. And by the way guys, this is called a Hong Kong finish. Next, cut off the excess of the bias tape neatly. And as you can see, I've already finished one side of the seam and hem and I will demonstrate the other side. From the underarm at side seam, mark down the armhole allowance which is 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. And from the hem, mark up the sewing allowances for me it's 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. Next, place the front bodice exactly at the markings from point to point as demonstrated. And pin in place. I will sew the front bodice first to the back bodice itself. After that, I will sew in the back lining like so. Next, I will cut off the excess allowance at the underarm to avoid bulking. And this is how it will look like. Before sewing the hem, I will give the side seam a press for a clean finish. And as you can see, there's still 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter of sewing allowance here at the back hem. Next, I will face the back self and lining right side to right side. Pin the hem in place in preparation for sewing. And I will sew the hem according to my allowance which is 2.8 of an inch or 0.6 centimeter. After that, I will give the hem a press for a clean finish. Next, I will permanently close the center back in my serging sewing machine. And now that the center back is serged, I can now attach the zipper. And by the way, I am using a metal jacket zipper. I've sewn the zipper to 8 of an inch or 0.6 away from the teeth using my single presser foot. And lastly, I will press the center back to flatten the seams at the zipper. Et voila! So this is the front, the mid-riff and the bonings, the side seam, and the back with the metal jacket zipper. Anyway guys, I hope this tutorial gave you enough tips on how to sew the David comma top. And I have also created timestamps so that you can access each chapter if ever you want to use the separate sewing techniques on your future sewing projects. And if you have any questions, please do not hesitate to comment down below. And I will reply as soon as possible. If you're not subscribed yet to my YouTube channel Loma Deliz, make it sure to hit that subscribe button. And if you like this video, give it a huge thumbs up. And I will see you guys again on the next tutorial. Abiento!