 The 10-wheel dump truck is one big truck, big in size, big in payload. It's used to haul tons of material from one job site to another, and for special jobs. Plowing snow, for example, or working with a stone spreader to tar and chip secondary roads. Jobs like these require a big truck with a lot of power, and they require an operator with a lot of skill. Of course, just watching this program on operating the 10-wheeler won't make you a skilled operator. Only experience will do that. But it'll cover some points that should make you a better operator if you apply them consistently. We'll begin with the discussion of startup procedures. Then we'll get into some basic operations. And finally, we'll cover shutting down at the end of the day. As you know, the department has a lot of trucks, old and new, different makes and models, and some operational procedures will vary from truck to truck. We'll cover procedures that are basically the same for all 10-wheelers here. But for more detailed information on the truck you'll be using, refer to the operator's manual. Get familiar with any special operating instructions. And with the locations and functions of the various instruments and controls. Okay, let's begin with startup procedures. As an experienced operator, you know that the startup entails much more than turning a key. First, you have to complete a pre-trip inspection to make sure your truck is in good shape before you leave the yard. Follow the instructions outlined in the operator's daily checklist. The order in which you make the checks is unimportant, but doing them is very important. It's the best way to spot small problems before they get out of hand. Start with the engine compartment. Check the engine oil every day. Keep it at the recommended level with the right type of oil. And note the condition of the oil. If it's discolored, gritty, or smells of fuel, don't start up until the problem has been diagnosed and corrected. The oil here looks good, at the right level, and fairly clean. Check the coolant level in the radiator or coolant reservoir. Some radiators have a sight glass on the side. And if you can see coolant in the glass, you've got enough. Check the condition of the fan belts and hoses. Report any that are loose, worn, or cracked. If the fuel filter on your truck has a petcock on it, drain a little fuel, and check for signs of water or sediment. If you suspect water in the fuel system, drain a cup or so from the fuel tank to remove any water that's condensed in the tank. Next, check the battery compartment. The condition of the cables and terminals. Keep them tight and free of corrosion. Check your tires every day. Keep them inflated at the right pressure. That makes steering a loaded truck a whole lot easier. The recommended pressure is stamped on the sidewall. Look for cuts and gouges on the tread and sidewalls. And check for loose axle bolts and lug nuts. Make sure everything is nice and tight. Now, on some of our trucks, the front axle bearings are lubricated with oil inside this plastic seal. Keep the oil level up to the full mark on the seal. Normally, we use SAE 90. Check the hydraulic oil level through the sight glass on the hydraulic oil tank. If it looks milky, there may be water in the system. And that could cause hydraulic failure. Tell your supervisor. Look underneath the truck for leaks of oil, water, or fuel. Note any problems you find on your checklist. Inform your supervisor of anything you can't fix yourself. Okay, now you can start the engine. Let it idle for five minutes or so after startup. At about 800 to 1000 rpms. This warm-up period is important to establish an oil film on the cylinder walls and other internal engine parts. While the engine's warming up, check the gauges on the instrument panel. You should get an oil pressure reading right away. If the gauge reads zero or low oil pressure, shut down the engine. You've got a major problem. Check the air pressure gauge. You need 90 to 120 pounds of pressure for the air brakes to work properly. Make sure the battery is charging. And the temperature gauge is working. And of course, check your fuel. Check the air filter restriction indicator. If the needle goes into the red range, you'll have to clean or replace the air filter element. Make sure all of your lights are working. Headlights, turn signals, flashers, strobes. Trucks are notorious for faulty brake lights. Check to see that yours work. And test your windshield wipers and horn. And check the free play in the clutch pedal before you head out. Experience will tell you when a clutch just doesn't feel right. Before you leave the yard, step on the brakes a couple of times, just to be sure you'll be able to stop. And there's one last pre-trip inspection point. Your seat belts. Nothing can add more to your safety than the few seconds it takes to buckle up. As I said earlier, the order in which you make these checks is up to you. But do them. Be ready to spot, report, and describe any problems you find before and during operation. You don't have to be a mechanic. Just look, listen, and feel for signs of potential trouble. And take care of it as soon as possible. Now, let's cover some points about basic operation. First, the transmissions you'll be using in the 10-wheeler. Next to a healthy concern for safety, the ability to shift gears properly is the best skill a truck driver can have. And no wonder. Our 10-wheelers have transmissions with 5 speeds, 10 speeds, and 13 gears, plus more gears in reverse. You also have high range, low range, direct drive, under drive, and over drive. It all gets just a bit confusing. Showing you how to shift gears here would be a waste of time. You have to get out and do it if you want to learn it. But I can offer a few pointers that may help. Start by reading the shifting instructions in the operator's manual and study the shift pattern for the transmission in your truck. When you're starting out, use the lowest gear that allows you to get the truck rolling. And upshift as you increase your speed. It's usually unnecessary to run the engine up to governed speed in the lower gears. That creates a lot of noise and waste fuel. Keep an eye on the tachometer. Use it to judge when you should upshift or downshift the transmission. Don't let the engine run too fast or too slow for the gear you're using. When you're driving on a busy road, stay in the highest gear that allows you to keep up with traffic and still have some power in reserve for acceleration. As I said, it's going to take some practice. The load you're carrying, the driving conditions, the tachometer, and the sound of the engine will influence which gear you choose. But with experience, you'll begin to select the correct gear almost instinctively. Okay, here's something that may be new to you. The differential lock or power divider. It's not really part of the transmission, but it may help you get out of some tough situations. On tandem dump trucks, both rear axles drive independently to power the truck. But if you get into an area where there's a good chance of getting stuck, let up on the accelerator and engage the differential lock. That gets both rear axles pulling together for better traction. Disengage it when you get out of trouble. But remember, never engage the differential lock when your wheels are spinning. That could damage it, the drive shaft, and the rear axles. Now some points about basic maneuvering. Turning, braking, and backing. For the most part, maneuvering the 10-wheeler is a matter of common sense and following the rules of the road. For turning, remember to signal well in advance. Slow down to a safe speed and stay in your lane as you go through the turn. And remember, the 10-wheeler needs a bit more room to turn. If you don't allow for it, you'll get into situations like this. And that's dangerous. And because the 10-wheeler is heavier, it also needs more room to stop. So anticipate the need to slow down as you approach intersections. Always maintain a good safety cushion between you and vehicles ahead. Remember, there are no excuses for a rear-end collision. At least none that will stand up in court. Use the transmission to help you slow down by downshifting. And above all, never drive anywhere until the air pressure in the air brake system reaches at least 90 pounds of pressure. Now, backing the 10-wheeler. The first rule is simple. The less you back up, the better. Rather than backing onto the highway, for example, turn around and enter traffic correctly. Plan your route to minimize the need for backing. Of course, you'll have to back up occasionally throughout the day. So here's another rule to follow. This just about says it all. Look before you back. Use both of your rear-view mirrors. You may remember the cone of danger that we showed in the six-wheel dump truck program. Well, the same thing applies to 10-wheel trucks, but the cone is larger. The area inside the cones is a blind spot. You simply cannot see everything behind you. So if you're not absolutely sure of what's behind you, get out of the cab and check behind the truck. Pick out some reference points that you can back toward and keep them in sight of your rear-view mirrors as you back up. Okay, now let's look at a couple of dump body operations. The procedure for using the dump body in a 10-wheeler is just like that in the smaller six-wheel dump truck. You use the same controls. We'll use the dump body to spread material along road shoulders. A nice, even spread makes it easier for the motor grader to come along and finish the job. To spread material, first you have to adjust the tailgate spreader chain so the right amount of material falls out of the body as it's raised. After you adjust the chains, position the truck at the dump site and begin raising the dump body. As the body rises, trip the tailgate latch. Then drive ahead slowly so the material falls out of the body and spreads out evenly behind the truck. After you dump the material, bring the body down and relatch the tailgate and disengage the PTO before you get back on the road. You'll also use the 10-wheeler to dump stone into chip spreaders to pave secondary roads. This calls for skillful operation and teamwork between you and the spreader operator. First, you have to back the truck up slowly until the tow bar on the truck locks into the hitch on the spreader. Then you put the transmission into neutral and let the spreader tow you slowly down the road. As you raise the body to dump the stone, keep an eye on the spreader operator through your rear view mirrors. He'll tell you when to raise, stop, or lower the body. And remember to keep your feet off the brakes. Just let the spreader pull you along, but there's more to it than that. You still have to steer. And because you're being towed backwards, that can be a bit tricky. Your turns have to follow the turns of the spreader. Check your mirrors constantly. A mix up here could result in this. Once this truck got off the pavement, the soft road shoulder did the rest. Whenever you raise the body for this or any operation, be sure you or your spotter checks the overhead clearance. Look out for tree limbs and power lines. After you dump the stone, bring the body down, disengage the PTO, and head back for another load. When you get back to the yard, position the truck so the loader can go from the stockpile to the truck as easily as possible. And get out of the cab. Stay in front of the truck where the loader operator can see you and you can see him. Now we'll cover shutdown. What to do at the end of the day? Keep your truck clean. Clean equipment works better and lasts longer. Park on level ground. Make sure the transmission is in neutral and set the parking brake. Let the engine idle for at least five minutes before you shut down. Bleed off the air reserve tanks to expel any moisture that's built up in the tanks. And walk around the truck. Look for any damage that may have occurred during the day, like this broken spring. Report any damage or operational problems to your supervisor. Check the power steering fluid and transmission fluid at least once a week while the engine's warm. In cold weather, plug in the electric heating elements to keep the engine warm overnight. That'll make starting easier the next day. And that's it for our program on the 10-wheel truck. As I said in the beginning, you won't learn everything you need to know about the 10-wheeler here. But remember the major points. Do that and with a little time and practice in the field, you'll be on your way to becoming a skilled operator. An important asset to the department.