 Hey everybody, welcome back. Today I'm again working on the D24 and I've come to some new into some new information and I wanted to expand on that a little bit more and it has specifically to do with the overload function of the D24 but this would also apply to like the D32 or the D20. If you have either of those monitors it has the same PA board and the PA board we'll talk about later on in the video after I get through some initial things that will that's the board that we recapped in the previous video and talked a little bit about the overload light so I won't get too much into what was happening because there's a lot of information in that video but I will explore a little bit deeper on the overload light and the functionality of it and why it was there and some other information that I've come into again but I wanted to start things off on why I'm even doing this to begin with and why I really go through and recap any of these machines and kind of the thought pattern behind my philosophies that I follow with recapping these machines and then hopefully this will help answer some of those questions that I get often asked about specific things like why certain caps go bad and certain caps aren't why do I have cap kits that only cover a certain smaller portion of the main board while the other 65-70% of the board is not going to be changed usually on capacitors so I want to go through and tell you a little bit about that today and we're also going to explain the reasons why we're even doing this first off the main thing this is is preventative maintenance if you're lucky now sometimes it can be repair because a part has failed but a lot of times my goal is to prevent any major failure by making sure that I'm doing regular maintenance and if you even just google electrolytic capacitor lifespan right away at the top I got this explanation when the life expected sees exceed 15 years for the life of a specific product then the capacitors electrolytic capacitors should be limited to 15 years and that's mainly due to the sealing materials deteriorating over time and that's what keeps the fluid inside the capacitor and most of the time you know there's going to be these ripple currents that go through the capacitor so over time they do break down so google will tell you right at the top of the page here from the aluminum electronic capacitors Illinois capacitor company will tell you that but I have another article here that I'm actually going to link to in the description of this video and I'm going to go through it real quickly I'm not going to read through everything on it but it's a great article it talks about electrolytic it's from XP power and it talks about electrolytic capacitor lifespan and power supplies now the reason I bring this up is every single CRT has a sort of power supply built into it so that especially is in every single CRT so those are going to have capacitors electrolytic capacitors in them and I want to jump down here because there is a formula that's based on you know the tolerance and how a capacitor is built and then they give you a tolerance rating for the capacitor what that actually means and how that's going to affect things over time so this is really the best part of this article says here manufacturers provide calculations to determine lifetime in application these are based on I'm sorry our our heinous equation for temperature dependency and basically the reaction rate doubles every 10 degrees Celsius rise in temperature put another way the lifetime of a capacitor doubles for each 10 degrees Celsius reduction in temperature meaning that a capacitor rated at 5000 hours at 105 degrees Celsius if you drop that down to 95 degrees Celsius it doubles the life and then if you drop it down to 85 degrees Celsius it doubles the life again to 20,000 hours and so that's why we you know if you follow this curve you follow this curve and you can see why some of the capacitors that are not exposed to heat where they may be way down here in this 55 degrees Celsius range and their hour expectancy is almost 150,000 160,000 hours of use so that kind of explains to you a little bit more on why I don't necessarily always change those extra capacitors that are away from heat sources that have not really been impacted by heat and that are most likely still going to have a huge amount of hours left on them because most likely they're somewhere in this curve on the on the good side unless of course they you could tell how much how much more drastic the drop off is here in the high heat areas and most of the components you'll see that we get are going to be requested to be rated around 85 degrees Celsius and that's putting it right at about a 20 to 25,000 hour lifespan so for example the BVM I'm working on right now in the video earlier has 27,000 hours so it would actually make sense 100 percent to get in there and change any kind of capacitor that's been in a high heated element because the monitor first off was made in 1999 so we're well over 20 years in age so we've already gone past the 15 year mark but we've also gone well past the hours mark on there and I for this BVM I'm going to go ahead and change all the capacitors in it just because you know that's part of the thing I want to do with them because they're very special and because I can but when you talk about other CRTs and other monitors this is where that philosophy comes into play that you don't always have to change every capacitor and you could still have the same amount of effectiveness or screen capabilities could not change if those capacitors don't go bad so that's a little bit more explanation into the relationship directly between time, heat and the capacitor's lifespan so that's just some first information I really wanted to get through now we're going to jump in so the PA board explanation a little bit deeper and we're going to talk I'm going to go go back to the Sony BVM manual PDF which I have pulled up here and this is section 6-2 directly on the PA board this is page 91 of the 239 page service manual and in this particular writing on this manual we're going to see it's going to tell you a little bit about this board and why it even exists it's a high voltage generator and regulator circuit and down here is pretty much the important information there's a lot of things in here basically tells you how this whole thing works directly great information here it also references what each individual important part does and what happens when it's in use so that's all really good information but I wanted to get down here was the excessive anode voltage protection circuit that's the first one and then right under that there's the excessive anode current protection circuit and these are two circuits that are built into this BVM and really any D-series BVM to protect it look it says we'll just read this first that it's the excessive anode voltage protection circuit is installed in this model for the purpose of protecting the CRT the actual tube okay when the high voltage increases up to an abnormal voltage due to the failure of the feedback system of the high voltage regulator circuit so you've got a high voltage regulator circuit and that's not always going to catch the spikes in time or it could fail so there are some excessive again voltage protection and it's the same thing for the current it's going to tell you pretty much the same thing limiting the current voltage due to the detection systems to do the control systems but the reason I've directly bring this up as if you read down here in this part it's going to tell you about some parts that are directly related to it so if you have troubles with your PA board or powering on or like mine where it was excessively kicking into overload when it was not on a very I mean it was on a bright screen but not a bright to where it should have been kicking into an overload already so anyway long story short there's a bunch of components you can test and after reading this I noticed right here in the middle it says that the current for this circuit goes directly through C801 of the PA board so that is a very vital capacitor on the PA board that's electrolytic that's over 20 years old that should be changed and right there if that one fails or falls out of spec you're giving yourself an opportunity for more current to flow through there and it will either damage this diode D801 or if the damage goes to the diode it could literally jump that high current into the neck of the CRT and destroy the heaters cause a pop that is so violent that it would actually crack the neck of the CRT and that literally happened numerous times in the field and and I'll talk about that a little bit more but I wanted you to understand that there are those two protections built in normally in the PA board this is not including the little PA daughter board which I'll talk about in a second too because I'm going to talk about a little bit more into the vest investigation of the D24 I've got and so again you've got the excessive anode voltage protection and it gives you all the direct parts what they're doing and then you can actually test those parts in your PA board if you have any issues to see if they're failing or just replace them because down here in the anode current protection it's going to list quite a few important resistors as well as diodes and ICs and what they do again and how they work but this is again one of this is the whole system that is actually there so we know that that overload system is there and if we continue to you know look into why it's listed it's it's on a different page and I'm sorry I can't refer to which one it is in the manual but it literally says that when the overload light comes on on your monitor adjust down your contrast and brightness because the monitor is sensing that there's too much voltage going through there and if that voltage keeps going through there and then pops that diode and then does it again it could go straight into your tube short out the tube short out the flyback transformer and cause all kinds of permanent damage to the monitor that you'll have to replace some of the very impossible parts to find for the most part so again we're going to look now at some pictures that I have from the recap of the PA board on my monitor and I'm as I show you some of these pictures I'm going to show you you know that 801 capacitor I'm also going to show you the PA1 board and I'm going to talk a little bit more about that PA1 board uh because that's not listed in this manual and there's a specific reason why it was an actually an end of life product that was not released till late in December I think uh or November uh anyway end of the year of 2006 and that was well after the D series was uh retired as far as being new models being made and they were into the A series and they were about to be done with CRTs all together and get into the other uh flat panel displays that they were using after they retired the CRT technology all together this was an end of life product Sony made this PA1 board uh between 2006 and they stopped manufacturing it in 2013 and they no longer have any stock in there uh but anyway I got all that information directly from a service bulletin that was shared with me and it had all that information it showed the PA1 board it talked about how uh excessive voltage should get through that system the system would fail the diodes and or the resistors on either one of those protections systems that we just went over in the manual they would fail and then current would go through there the overload wouldn't catch it shut the monitor down the voltage would creep all the way through the flyback and the tube and fry one or the other to making them dead or useless uh so that is why that PA1 board was developed it was a third fail safe to help in case both those other things it was supposed to be a better version of a tripping device to basically help with the overload problem so without too much more talk and let me go ahead now and we'll jump into some of these pictures and I'm going to just go through these and show them to you and talk to you so this is the PA board that I have the top side of it with all the capacitors removed again pretty easy job as far as the top of this thing was concerned uh there are those resistors though if you need to look at the resistors they're going to be over here and then the diodes are probably going to be servicing out diodes underneath here you know um listed under here by the letter D and then the capacitor this is with the capacitors off you can see up here where we got our jumper installed and this is exactly to the book on how Sony had and I can't show you that again I can't sorry I cannot show you that specific service bulletin because I promise I wouldn't it's never been published and therefore I can't risk you know publishing it for the first time um and getting him in trouble or anybody else in trouble because he might not be supposed to whatever anyway you just have to take my word for it that this bulletin is out there it's not been released to the public so that's the reason I won't release it but I'll go through and tell you about the information with the photos the best as I can so again you install this uh right here you know there's one of those diodes right there but you stall it one of the legs of these and uh over on two other points and then it's got some ground points and again it's a third circuit protection for the overload so you don't continue to overload it too much and uh do any permanent damage to it there's just some underline this is the spot in the d24 where it went and of course you know it fits in there fine and perfectly and um the door swing shut lots of good testing done so this is about uh if I've had the thing tested for probably 10 hours is how many hours I've put on this new pa board just running tests and like gameplay footage so just to make sure that the new caps are good uh because the manual does say you know give it some time but I want to zoom into this area because again this is where the capacitor is right in here and uh first what I'm going to do is I'm going to zoom in too a little bit more and so bear with me here but if we look kind of let me pull myself out of the picture a little bit if you look right here where my cursor is there you'll notice the hv protection and then up here is another uh potentiometer hv adjustment those are for high voltage protection and the high voltage adjustments I do not recommend messing with these at least not for the time being till I figure out more on it do not go sticking in a potentiometer you know a screwdriver in there turning that potentiometer it could cause fatal damage to your bvm because right over in this area also is that capacitor c801 we'll try to zoom in a little bit more on it and you can see right here maybe you can see the numbers on there but that's the capacitor right there here again is a closer look up different view of that capacitor right there and so what I did was I took that capacitor or I went back after I found that um this capacitor was in there and it was the only one I went back and I had a baggie here with all the capacitors from that cap kit and I pulled out of the monitor and so what I did was I took that out and I found that cap and I thought I took my multimeter up to it and test it and I've got some results here for you but there's just a closer look at it and 50 by 47 again the only one was c801 I took some readings which I've got here uh listed and this was the capacitor that I pulled it kept reading at 52.0 or 52.1 or higher okay so it wasn't going down it was actually reading higher than the 47 microfarons uh out of spec by 10 percent at least a little bit over 10 percent however I was reading the new capacitors I was testing them and they were tested out between 50.3 and 50.2 so I don't know whether my meter was testing a little bit high but what I did want to say is I mean this is not much of a difference but it still is a difference and there's a possibility that when this old capacitor was under a load that it could have even reacted differently and the voltage could have changed on it and it could have just again like I said reacted differently so again why do I talk about my you know monitor more about this thing well the reason being is my monitor as we talked about earlier was made in 1999 originally okay so 1999 was the year that it was made it was like number 22 off the assembly line and so uh my our gut feeling is is that uh you know over time you can adjust like you said screen brightness and contrast impact this greatly this whole problem with the overload they impact that directly so what we're thinking is that over time people would just turn up the brightness and the contrast on the monitor and cause those overloads either occur more often or you know just put that much voltage through the whole system after 25 000 hours ish that can make a lot of these components fail the tubes worn out because it's had excessive voltage continuously running through it over a lifetime and eventually those components fail and the tube pops at like 25 000 hours which was a common thing that happened apparently if you talk to a lot of sony techs which I have some tony techs that directly explain this situation happening so again this was like years later after the product had been made so you're sitting at this monitor that I have most likely at about 25 000 hours the tube pops the components are probably bad on this pa board so sony sends out the in 2006 to 2008 for this monitor they get a new tube installed probably they get the pa board one board installed as well as the components on the pa one board that were like the uh you know diodes most likely were replaced and so they were either replaced or the whole board would have been replaced but if not they would have repaired the board and then put that little circuit board on the main board and then you'd have that extra protection there and then they go ahead and install a new tube which is most likely done here and I'm going to show you some pictures of this tube because it is just hideous and does not look anything like what it probably should look like for an install so this is inside the back of this tube and you'll just notice all kinds of this epoxy everywhere all over the place and you see this masking tape and epoxy that's actually holding down numerous convergent strips uh the tube the yoke I fear has not been pushed up far enough to the back of the tube I'm not really can tell because there's so much epoxy on it and I can't get it to turn you can barely see the wedges they're just completely covered in epoxy I'll show you some other pictures this is the tube on it the tube bottle number so I'm not sure if anybody knows if that would indicate anything as it being a different tube that was in the original run but possibly here again is a close-up of the yoke next to the back of the tube and this is just what you've got tons and tons of that nasty stuff taped on and again here's a convergent strip here's a convergent strip here's a convergent strip here's a wedge and it's all under this old epoxy now this is a magnet for purity that I had to add because again this convergence and stuff is just jacked up beyond belief so I added that to help with some purity which it did here's the other side the opposite side again more convergent strips epoxy tape just blah and even on the yoke adjustment wheels there's a yoke adjustment wheels on here for or trim pots to change and adjust the convergence on it there's different convergence adjustments you can make not just what's in the main menu you actually have about a half a dozen convergence adjustments well they put a big glob of epoxy up there for no reason and then here's just all that they slapped all over the neck so basically if you're overloaded then too much voltage will come in here and will burn a heater out and it says according to that manual and according to the service bulletin that this it would be such a bad thing that the tube itself the glass in the neck would crack so that would be probably pretty scary but if you ever come across one of these with a neck crack you know that that's what happened most likely so again all these things there's not even a capacitor in the seaboard you'll notice but that's a look at there there's again a look up here at that epoxy more epoxy different angle and again same stuff different angle just a complete mess inside there and so that's what we think happened we think it this had the worst thing happened so it was 25 000 hours they'd been using the brightness and contrast to keep up with the picture they keep it you know viewable because it's burning down the tube life but you know it's this is normally a tube that burns at a lower brightness than other tubes and it's it's got the power in it to physically push the beam way beyond the capability of the tube itself to withstand the pressure so again that's a whole lot more about this PA board and we've gone through just about everything on it I know it's it's again a lot of information and this PA board again is on the d32 it's on the d24 it's on the d20 and it's a very important part of this whole setup because again it's got a couple protection circuits but if those protections fail that's when you're going to lose your tube instantly most likely and the flyback transformer that's possible also but that's the main point I wanted to get across in today's video and what I'm going to be doing again on the next ones is we're going to continue to work on the recapping these boards getting back together and then start working on the adjustments and the fun stuff inside the menus of this elaborate monitor this video anyway has gone way longer than I'd hoped it was going to be I'm sorry I hope I didn't bore anybody too much and I hope baby you learned something definitely check this out look into it a little bit more if you own one of these monitors it's really simple to get to this side on the monitor just four screws and pop this plate off on the left hand side of the monitor when you're looking at the screen and you can check it see right there without doing anything else see if you've got this daughter board installed if you do it's probably a good chance that you have a newer tube installed and then you could check out the back of your tube and make sure it looks like that because if it looked all nice and factory standard I wouldn't have thought the tube would have been changed I would have just thought it was on its you know like so that's a good news we'll get this fixed up and make sure it's back to normal please leave a like I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content