 What we have here is an Annabelle hydrangea, very popular in our part of the country. They grow easily, they bloom profusely, they bloom on the current season's growth. So late October, early November is a good time to go ahead and cut them down and that way you won't have all the dead flower heads remaining there through the winter, which may be an attraction to you or they may not. So there's a lot of opinion involved in this. You can go ahead and cut them down this fall, if you don't you can have to cut them down next spring. I prefer to go ahead and cut them down in the fall. So what we have here is a spent flower head. And what we want to do is we want to go all the way down and cut this back as far as we reasonably can here with this little hand pruner and bingo. We cut it off very, very easily, okay? And they're easy to cut back, just a little hand bypass pruner like you see right here. We'll do the job very nicely. You just cut them back to little stumps like you see here and you'll get this nice flasher growth next spring. What we have then left here is a bunch of stumps which certainly aren't attractive, but next spring they will be flush with new growth coming out and reward you with an abundance of flowers which everybody loves. They're completely hardy here so we don't need to do any more with these than this. The Anabil hydrangea is a perfect plant for growing in our northern plains region and rewards us generously with these beautiful flowers in the summertime. Hello, my name is Todd Wyman. I work for the Cass County Extension Office with NDSU. Today I'm going to talk about Canageneralis. Canageneralis, otherwise known as Cana, is a perennial plant that is zone 9. We are zone 4 here in Farter North Dakota and Canageneralis will not survive the winter. After the first light frost, this is what you'll get. The plant will become a nice brown, kind of a mushy look to it and it's time to dig it. We're going to dig this plant and look at the root system and talk about storage this time of year in the fall. When you're digging the bulbs, you want to make sure that you don't damage the roots and you'll know because you'll slice them right off, but we'll dig it up and we'll take a look at it. If it is bad, it will have a mushy appearance to it and if not, it will have a light pink whitish appearance to the root system. Never wash the roots of these. If you're going to storm, just brush the dirt off gently the best you can, but don't wash them. It doesn't help at all with the storage. These roots look very good. As you can see, they have different plants ready to go for next year. The dead plants parts we won't use anymore and we want to cut them off about 6 to 8 inches and I'll show you that in a minute for storage in peat moss at about 40 to 45 degrees. These are looking very nice yet. Here, this one's a little bit mushy, but this one's doing pretty good yet and we'll storm in the peat moss over winter in about 40 to 45 degrees in a cool, dark place. You want to check these once a month because you don't want them to dry out and if the peat moss is dry, you want to add a little bit of water to keep the plant going. You can cut the stock of the plant, several utensils, but I prefer to use a shovel since I've got one here already and just a swift cut with a sharp shovel should make it nice and about 6 to 8 inches and there you go. Once you've got it in this stage, take the bulbs and place them in some peat. Gently cover the plant like this, add a little water and this plant should be ready until next spring. In the spring, what you want to do is start your plants indoors before the frost, before your scheduled first frost. Plant them in peat or some sand or some perlite, a light soilless medium will work fine and get them going before the first frost. As soon as the danger of the first frost is done, dig a hole for each root bulb. Try to get three or so eyes, here's just two bulbs with the eyes on there, here's two bulbs, but if you can get three, that would be great and plant them individually in each hole about 4 to 6 inches deep at the very least. Water them good and they should have you a beautiful plant. Today we're going to dig up some tender perennials with rhizomias roots and this first one is Xanthodicia aethiopeca or what everyone calls cala lily, a little easier to say. After the first frost it's a nice time to dig these, if you wait too long the roots will get mushy and be unusable. If you don't dig these, the roots will stay in the ground and nothing will come up in the spring. I'll dig these up and then I'll show you how to store them and talk to you about what storage requirements are needed for these. They have a nice rhizomotaceous root system, rhizome as you all know is actually a stem. You can look here, these are looking pretty nice. You want to gently brush the dirt off of them, don't wash them, they don't store well, they'll actually start to rot. What I do with these is I gently tear this off, brush the dirt off the best I can and then I'll place them into some peat moss for storage. What you want to do is check these monthly and if they are drying out add a little water. You don't want to be sopping wet. Store them at about 45 to 50 degrees in a well ventilated dark area, a little peat moss here and I'll add some water to this later and you're good. For next year when you plant these, plant them in a partial sun to full sun area with good drainage, fertile soil and water. They're also a plant that you can plant by ponds. They don't mind boggy areas. They're a nice looking plant for Caila Lillis. I have some bulbs here. If you look they're nice and healthy, there's no disease or damage to them and the scale or the outer tunic is intact. This is what you want to look for. For orientating a planting you want to plant them this way up. Well, let's get to it. I'm going to dig a hole here now and I'll have it between 4 to 6 inches deep. For the tulips, I worked this soil up earlier this week and it's nice rich soil with good drainage. The tulips should do fine here. Whenever you plant tulips you like to plant in odd numbers. It'll give your mind and your eye a little better perspective of the beauty of them when you plant in odd numbers. Place them so that the basil plate, which is the bottom, is actually on the bottom. The little pointy end is up. Space them out. I like to add a little bone meal. The soil, depending on where you're at, for example here, should have plenty of bone meal with it but it doesn't hurt to add a little more just in case you're low for some reason. Following the directions, you apply it according to whatever your bag says. I tend to just go like this though, just a light sprinkling and then I add some water just to kind of make sure that just a little bit to get everything kind of soaked in there. Now I'll add some soil over the top of that, a little more water, some more soil and you're done. One thing you want to try to do is prevent the squirrels from digging them up. There's different methods you can use. One is you can take a piece of chicken wire and place it over the top. However in the spring, you need to remove that before the tulips start to grow or they'll have problems working their way through the wire. The other is you can apply a mixture of ground red pepper and also ground garlic and sprinkle that over the top of the tulips. Just a light dusting, there's not an exact recipe for that. And that will deter the squirrels from digging them out.