 Hey, everybody, got a different retro tech device here to work on in the shop. And I wanted to bring you a special video on it. This is a video on a commercial time-based corrector for analog video. That's right. We're going to be looking way back at a different type of commercial video piece of equipment. And I'm going to give you some reasons as to why this is an important retro relic at this point. But first, let's look at a little bit of marketing information on our specific device here. So I'm going to get myself a little bit out of the way. And we'll get in here and look at the single channel time-based corrector. This is by data video. It's called the TBC1000. And I will link to this PDF because it has a lot of great information. But to make things short and sweet here for you, it's got an input on the front. And it's got a commercial design. The most important thing is, is it takes in S-video and composite video, analog video, and also stereo audio. And then it corrects it and spits it out of the back of the device. And it has four composite video inputs and four S-video outputs for S-video outputs and then for stereo audio outputs, which simultaneously can put out that signal. So to sum up a little bit of why you would even want a device like this, this would be to basically get old analog video from either degraded tapes that might lose signal. This is going to correct the signal and improve signal loss from that old analog choppy VHS tape. There's also a thing called macrovision, which is an old anti-piracy kind of technology built into your VHS tape and also DVD and DVD players that prevents straight copying of the VHS tape or even uploading it to, say, a capture card. Well, this device gets rid of all that. It corrects it and it sends it out. It also does some color corrections. So it's a highly desirable product for what it does. Now, this one came out in the late 1990s, 1999, towards the end of the year. It does say here that it needs a DC 9 volt 1 amp power adapter, but we might find that that's actually a little bit different. Again, this is a very rare product at this point. There's only really one left. Now, nobody's bid on it, but there is one left on eBay right now, listed for $1,600. And that's a starting bid. And then if we go and look at some sold listings, it is selling for quite a bit of money. So you've got one here that had one bid go for $1,200. $1,100, $1,200. This one went for $345, but it was broken or not working properly. So that's what we're going to do today. We're going to fix the one that my friend Kenny has. Because again, it's worth saving. It's a very expensive device, very rare and desirable at this point. Because it also, again, it's a commercial product. It's not just like a VCR that has this as a feature or some kind of other machine. This is meant for more of the commercial use. So this is Kenny. Kenny has a channel where he documents and makes great documentaries on anime and unknown anime a lot of times, and like rare VHS tapes that he goes out and finds in the hidden archives of the world to bring them to you guys on YouTube. And so he's going to be using this device to bring back a lot of that footage and be able to do his thing. And I'm very happy to help out with that. So if you are into anime, definitely go check him out. So let's go ahead now, and we're going to jump into our repair video. And here's our first look at Kenny's data video time-based corrector, TBC1000, again, is the actual model unit. And you can see that it's got a definitely heavy-duty design with a metal shell and the anti-vibration feet. And then the DC voltage rating on the back of the device here says it needs 12 volts, 1.2 amps. So just note that. Make sure that you probably want to go by what is actually written on the outside of the device. But that does differ from what that product manual said. And then here's a closer look at the front of this unit. Now Kenny told me when he sent me this that it just didn't work. He said that a lot of the outputs on it were not showing any kind of video whatsoever. And if they did, it was one or two of them worked, but it was very off on the color. Here's a very close look at the front inputs on the device. And so you're going to put in your analog video into that, and then it's going to simultaneously come out all these outputs on the back. Well, that's at least the way that the product is designed to function normally. So again, I just wanted to give you a really close view in how it has that really nice high quality metal finish. So you can use this for just a time-based corrector, or you could, again, max out all the outputs on it and use it for multiple devices that you may be capturing video from that's analog. And here's a look inside the model. I did not test it again because I knew it wasn't working. We're just going to go ahead and look inside if we could find out anything that's bad. And immediately after an inspection, I noticed a lot of the capacitors had expanded extremely, especially those large ones that I have marked up here with a Sharpie on top of them. And that's a sign that those caps have most likely failed or are extremely failing and definitely need to be changed. Thankfully none of them blew out because there were a lot of other semiconductors resistors on the board that were surface mount. And I'd hate to have electrolytic fluid come out of this and actually damage some of those traces and things. So I want to go ahead and make sure I get out these capacitors that are bad. Now that's because these capacitors were not super high quality to begin with, but they're also in a higher heat spot than some of the other capacitors. So we're going to do a targeted recap on here. I'm not going to go in and replace all the small electrolytic capacitors that are not in a high heat zone and probably still have very much life left on them. We're concerned majorly with the ones that are in the high heat areas. That would be on the power supply board, which you saw me take out was the very small daughter board. And then we're going to take out this main output board and we will do a repair on it. Here's our output board. And the first thing we're going to want to do is get rid of all these nasty large capacitors that have obviously run their life. And I'm also going to change the capacitors that are in next to the voltage regulator on here. There were a couple of capacitors right there that should be changed to. And then the rest of those that are on the outsides and not in the higher heated areas are not going to be changed because there doesn't seem to be any issues with those capacitors. And rather than going in and changing them when they're not going to really make much difference on here, we're going to just concentrate on the ones that are important and remove those. All right, so I used my HACCO FR-301, as you saw, to remove those capacitors. Now they're all gone. There you can see the two that were right next to the voltage regulator here at the top right of the screen. I removed those two capacitors. And then each one of these on the video output lines that was expanded and that it's run out, it's life cycle and it needs to be replaced. So I'm going to get in here now and replace these capacitors. Now I am using much higher quality capacitors than before. They're the same voltage rating and the same capacitance, but they are rated for like 5,000 hours at 105 degrees Celsius. And they have a really low ripple current, probably way more than is necessary. But I want to make sure these last for a long time. And at the heat that this device will run, these capacitors will easily last 10,000 hours if you're just using it sporadically. It could even go longer than that. So I go in and replace the capacitors on this board, just the normal way that I like to do it, where I go in and I put the through hole capacitor in. I install it, tack it in place with a little bit of flux first and solder. And then I go back, clip the legs, and reflow the solder just to make sure that I have a proper solder joint there. And here we have it. These capacitors are quite a bit larger, at least roundwise, than some of the spots they were placed in. So I did have to kind of make sure they fit in there perfectly. You could tell there are light, like it's a tight squeeze, but they'll be fine. There's no problems with the legs or anything on there. And here are the three capacitors on this tiny data video power supply board, very minute power board, but I'm going to go ahead and change these three capacitors on here. I've got them removed now, and then I'll go in and put in, again, some really high quality components. These are low end. I'm going to get some capacitors in here that are almost three times the size of the prior ones, really highly rated. Some of the ones I use in my BVM kits. So these should do good and last a really long time, a lot longer than the ones did before. So we're going to now take these boards, it's just those two boards. I didn't take out the main input board that had all the processing chips on it, and it didn't seem to have any problem with its capacitors. Those were fine, but I did change those other two boards out and the specific capacitors on there. What you just saw me do there was I just maintained the voltage regulator, adding some fresh thermal paste onto the heat sink, and we'll get the board back in place and screw in the heat sink to the metal frame. And now we're ready to install the rest of the boards, including that little power board, and connect our daughter board to our output board to our main input board. This was kind of crazy, that little card in there that Data Video used actually had its own composite like input or output on it. So it's kind of a device that's like, looks like it's hacked together by Data Video in the first place, or when they made it. It kind of looks like something you would see where like a modern day clone console that you open up the shell and it's got a couple different circuit boards that are put together with something that does one thing to another to another. But it works good for analog video, and I'm sure that it's kind of so rare and weird at this point that you're not gonna correctly redesign this kind of a machine, at least not to the standard that this is doing where it's got a commercial standard. So I don't have a VCR right now to test the macro vision on there. If you wanna learn more about macro vision, there's tons of information out there online, but we did get an opportunity now to hook up analog video into it, and I used the Super Nintendo here. I hooked up both S-Video and Composite in, and then I used the multiple outputs, both audio and video, and I tested every single one of them, and they worked perfectly with my JVC, and that's the JVCD series CRT television, and then I'll be testing in a second on some other monitors, but you do need to note one thing about this device. This is not gonna be really good for your capturing of retro video games that are in 240p, because this will upscale the picture to 480i. So I'm gonna get some closer shots here, but you'll be able to notice you won't really see any scan lines there, because again, it's taking that 240p and it's converting video, so there's actually a conversion process inside of here that is taking that video and upscaling it to 480i, and then doing some color correction on it to a 422 component standard. So that's it. Thankfully, all we needed to do was just change the capacitors, and I've got it set up here now on my 14L5. It works perfectly on there. I've worked on every single device I hooked it into and out of that was analog video, and again, the audio worked great. So all in all, this one was a great project because again, this is a very important device if you are looking to do any kind of preservation of VHS tapes, especially things that are not commercially made anymore and have that macro vision. This is one of the perfect ways to save that old footage and upload it to a computer hard drive or to another, dub it to another tape or really anyway, this corrects that and makes that a stable picture. And so thank you Kenny for trusting this device to me. If you happen to find one of these and it doesn't work, that's the first thing you need to check out are those capacitors because again, these were extremely cheap low quality capacitors and I would recommend changing, especially those ones that are in the high vulnerability areas on the high heat points of the device. That's it. I'm very again, happy to be able to bring you this different device today. Thanks again for watching. And if you have any questions or comments, please let me know with a comment below. Go check out Kenny's channel if you're into anime at all. And if you have any kind of device that you want to get checked out or possibly refurbished, I do offer services. I'll put a link to my Patreon page in the description of this video and I will definitely see you guys next time with some more retro content.