 Hi, you guys, it's Abby and Lindsay here today We are trying something new that we really hope you guys like we got some new equipment that allows us to film overhead So we are going to enter into this new type of filming with a very highly requested Video and that is how to do a full seat adjustment So I need full of seat adjustments on almost every pattern that I do on but includes Fitted skirt or pants or anything like that and we think Abby does too because Well, we're going to do the full seat adjustment today on the Alina sewing and design clothes chitown chinos skirt and Abby made this skirt already by just grading and kind of explain what the fit was like when you graded So well, I actually I made first just made the straight size six Okay, I made the straight size eight and then I Based it together the side seams and my waist was way too big and my hips fit So I technically graded down after putting it together. Normally when I grade, you know, I would do it on the pattern piece So I took in the waist probably about three quarters of an inch to an inch on either side So that's like a whole inch difference that I needed between my waist and my hips And then I tried it on for Lindsay and we both felt like the fabric was pushing out in the back below my butt so Kind of like a flare but not meant to be a flare In the front if I and if I pushed it in from the back then it flared out towards the front Right. So yeah, clearly there was clearly we needed to add some fabric Just to the bum part just three dimensionally like a little I don't know peach And then and then have it curved nicely straight down from there, right? And I think what happened with the making a straight eight based on your measurements I think this is a problem a lot of people have they get this little chart and here We'll zoom in so you guys can see They get this little chart and then they measure themselves and then they fall in to a place on the chart Based on some measurements that they took of themselves and when I measured Abby today We actually got a waist measurement of 26 and a half So is that the measurement that you got? No Okay, and I don't know if I've never had somebody else measure me so I mean it's nice to be able to have Yeah, and I think when we do it ourselves We don't measure ourselves in the right place on our body Abby actually is pretty high-waisted So when I put the measuring tape around her I asked her to bend over to the side and wherever your body naturally like folds over itself That is your waist so I think maybe Abby was measuring a little bit too low for herself There is four inches of ease in the waist here because this is supposed to be a low slung relaxed fit skirt So if she measured too low, then adding in that extra ease. Yeah, it's gonna be gigantic Yeah, so based on measuring Abby at her true waist We are gonna put her at a four and then to determine how much you need to add for your full seat adjustment We go down to the finished garment sizes So we're in a four all the way down and you can see that the hip the finished hip measurement is 38 inches And when we add when we measured Abby at her widest point, we got a measurement of 39 So we need to add one inches one inch to her hip on the skirt by adding in like three-dimensionally just to the back pattern piece So with after we figured out all that we know we need to add an inch We gathered all of our supplies and here's what you need to do a full seat adjustment or really any adjustment You're gonna need pins you're gonna need some strips of Tracing paper which we have here. You need a measuring tape which we technically already used But we might use a little bit later if we need to figure out some math Hem gauge a black marker a marker that's in a different color to make your adjustments some tape a clear ruler and then this on the bottom is Abby's size four that we have Traced we marked the grain line We marked the grain line here. We marked the pocket Placement and we marked the dart so all of that is already marked Zoom back out so you can see everything So all that is already marked here And then we marked the seam allowances on the side seam and on the hem And we really only mark them for a couple of inches because the way you do the adjustment is you really only need to know the seam allowances through the widest part of the skirt and then Through the dart here. Okay, so that takes us to our first step So what we're going to do and I'm going to kind of walk Abby through this and she's going to do all of the adjustments herself You need to make a line that is perpendicular to the grain line with the clear ruler Do we want to use this? Sure So you're going to draw a line perpendicular to the grain line that goes all the way Through the side seam. I'm sorry through the center back to the seam allowance on the side seam Oops, I drew on your board. I'm so sorry. Oh my god By the way, this is the dritz cutting board. It's like made out of cardboard and it has one inch grid lines It also has like some you see these red Him lines has a place to make By his tape and scallops. It's really cool. We'll put the link down below where you can find one I love working with this because you can pin into it and it'll hold your pattern in place, which is really nice Okay, can't really see that pink marker and on the camera. So we're going to do this all in blue Hopefully the blue. Yeah better. Oh, no, it's actually dying And you'll see that line. Yeah, you can see that then you also want to make like where the seam allowance intersects over here with the Line that we just drew you want to make a small circle and I'll show you why here in a second Okay, the next line that we are going to draw and maybe we can pin down the Go ahead and pin down the Cinderback seam so we're no we're super straight You're going to want to make a line that goes straight through the middle of the dart All the way down to the hem. So technically it's going to be Perpendicular to the line that we just drew and parallel to the green line So how do I keep this straight? You go like this So where's the center of the dart officially? Let's find that first You can probably see better where those two lines match up just pinch a little Fold in the pattern piece and then you can draw you can get the little leg started So again, you're going to want to make the line perpendicular to the line. We just drew parallel to the We're going to do the same thing that we did for the side seam over here on the hem and just draw in a little circle like so Then we need to take our scissors and we're going to cut from the center back To the edge of the circle and from the side seam to the other edge of the circle And so I put in the circles because you have to get really really close to the Side seam, but you don't want to go through it So I like to put the circles there just as like an extra little safeguard to remind myself To not cut all the way through and to give myself enough space for that little hinge here It's probably easier if I do it from this side. So you just want to cut right to that line So now you've got a little hinge over here where the seam allowances can Overlap if you need But the side seam the length of the side seam never changes no matter how much you add to here and take away from the seam Allowance the side seam is always the same. So we're gonna do the same thing for the this Perpendicular line. We're gonna cut all the way through from the waist all the way through down to the hem But we're not going to cut through the hem So you're gonna have one piece that comes away Abbie cut through the circle. So I'm going to make sure I don't Oh, sorry That's okay a little overzealous with the cutting there So yeah, you just want it to be like a little teeny tiny piece of paper there to hold everything together Okay, so now you've got something that looks like this. So we needed to add remember one inch To Abbie's hip now there are two sides to this skirt. This is only half of the back So we're going to take that one inch measurement and divide it by two to make it half an inch Half an inch is going to go on the left cheek and half an inch is going to go on the right cheek Okay, so now we need to take our strips and put them underneath the lines that we just cut So let's just do that out of the way for a sec And then I find it helpful to actually tack down the Strips of paper so that they never move So all we're moving is the pattern piece that's laying on top of the of the strips so you can see that We've got kind of like a cross in the extra pattern strips And then we've got our pattern laying over top of the cross Oh that ever happened the pin of mine the top of my pin just came off Interesting. Okay. So yeah, let me put this piece back We need to move this out. Okay. So after we got the strips pinned down underneath We are going to pin down the center back seam and the hem Because neither one of those things should move Get it on the corner move it up or down down down Okay, and then we're gonna leave this piece free because we're actually going to move this But if you think about it, this is only half of your skirt. So you this is like Another piece. This is where you attach them together So the majority of the fabric that you need to add to it is going to be in this portion here Not necessarily in this portion This is where your bubble butt lives and then everything kind of radiates down and grades down to nothing from there But you can't really on a two-dimensional piece of paper Move one thing without moving another which is why you end up with all these weird angles So the way that I like to do it is this piece is completely free. So I like to measure Half an inch from the bottom quadrant here In a line all the way across And you're going to line this piece up with this While keeping the center back seam still on that grid line So you're gonna have to come down this way a little then down this way a little You're going to have to kind of play with it You mark these And so see you have a perfectly straight center back seam with an extra half an inch added in there For the center part of your butt crack Basically is where it is And then see how the waist is like not matching anymore. So now You need to move this piece up To accommodate for that And then you put it in its place All the while our hinge here is making sure that the side seam The stitching line stays the exact same So this is our new piece and we're going to tape all of this Together you can see we've added all this extra space to the dart But when you sew up the dart legs, you're going to eliminate all of that space But we do need to move the dart point because now this is at too much of an angle the dart point moved over Let's see maybe half an inch Yeah, a little shy of half an inch So we need to split the difference of this measurement and move the dart over by that amount So a little less than half an inch is also a little less than a quarter of an inch So let's just move it over by a little less than a quarter of an inch Which would be right about Here Cool. Mm-hmm. And then you take your ruler And you draw new dart legs right down To that point and then you draw them on the other side And there is your new dart Now you can also see that the pocket placement line Grew and now it's at an angle. So we need to take this measurement Which looks to be Right at exactly half an inch And we need to shorten it by that amount And also straighten it out So Let's straighten it out first This line to this line And then you can take it in by a quarter inch on each end So put that on that line new pocket end New pocket end But keep in mind with the pockets too that Just because they put a pocket placement line on the pattern Doesn't mean that's the most flattering place for the pocket to go on your bomb Especially if you have a bubble butt you may need to make the pocket bigger You may need to Move the pocket up you may need to move it out move it in there's you know all kinds of Um You know places you can put the pocket to make it more flattering So don't feel like this is a hard and fast place to put it. This is just um the place she thought best For most people, but if we're doing all this work, you can tell we are not most people right? Okay, so now we've got all this taped down. We've got our new marks. We're going to take all these pins out cut along these um the Cutting lines again and have our new pattern So one thing we did forget to mention is that you need to redraw the um Waste cutting line So you just kind of want to eyeball where the center of the seam is there You can measure it if you want and be like perfectly exact. That's probably what we should do as As we are teaching people So it is one and seven eighths. Let's cut or one. Yeah, no one. What is that one in three quarters? where is the um Measuring tape right there Oh So a good way to figure out the half of one and three quarters since i'm not so good at math Is you take your pliable measuring tape your plastic one and you just fold over the metal piece to meet one And three quarters and then you pinch it and that is your halfway mark So so seven eighths of an inch is half of one and three quarters That's a neat little a neat little trick that you can do with your Um Measuring tape if you don't want to get out of calculator and you just want to get some quick fractions done So half of that would be seven eighths So you come back in here and it's seven eighths Then measure that line up to the cutting line And I was right about right. I was a little bit off, but yeah If you've been um cutting darts for a while, you can probably Um figure just kind of eyeball it and be fine. Okay, so then you want to cut that out obviously along the um Cutting line and there you go. Here we have our brand new Back skirt piece for the chitown chino skirt So what I like to do from this point is write the pattern What size we made half an inch full seam adjustment or full seat adjustment So you know What you did without having to look at it if you're really ocd you can retrace this whole thing With using the pink lines as your Guide and only using those lines You don't have any of this tape to catch on anything and you know exactly what lines you need to mark for your dart You don't ever get confused, but that is like next level like awesome ocd. Yeah Yeah, so that's that I hope you guys were able to follow along With us We are going to show some pictures of abbey's graded skirt next to this skirt So you guys can get a full visual of the difference between grading and a full seat adjustment And hopefully that will help you kind of go for it and dive in to this kind of pattern Adjusting it gets easier the more times you do it It may seem a little overwhelming at first, but you'll get it Anything else to add? No, I'm excited to go sew up my new Skirt using the full seat adjustment and see how much better it is how it goes. Okay Well, thanks y'all so much for watching and let us know if you like these overhead shots We have some cool ideas. We think if you guys don't mind not seeing our faces and only seeing our hands Ah, so let us know what you think in the comments and we'll see you next time. Bye. Bye