 29 The Rhine Blanche I cannot forbear a brief reflection upon the scene ending the last chapter. The retanning of the young culprits, although significant of the imperfect discipline of a French man of war, may also be considered as in some measure characteristic of the nation. In an American or English ship, a boy, when flogged, is either lashed to the breach of a gun or brought right up to the gratings the same way the men are. But as a general rule he is never punished beyond his strength. You seldom or never draw a cry from the young rogue. He bites his tongue and stands up to it like a hero. If practicable, which is not always the case, he makes a point of smiling under the operation. And so far from his companions taking any compassion on him, they always make merry over his misfortunes. Should he turn baby and cry, they are pretty sure to give him afterwards a slight pounding in some dark corner. This tough training produces its legitimate results. Footnote, I do not wish to be understood as applauding the flogging system practised in men of war. As long, however, as navies are needed, there is no substitute for it. War being the greatest of evils, all its accessories necessarily partake of the same character. And this is about all that can be said in defense of flogging. And footnote, the boy becomes in time a thoroughbred tar, equally ready to strip and take a dozen on board his own ship, or cutlass in hand, dash-pel-mel on board the enemies, whereas the young Frenchman, as all the world knows, makes but an indifferent seaman. And though for the most part he fights well enough, somehow or other, he seldom fights well enough to beat. How few sea-battles have the French ever won, but more, how few ships have they ever carried by the board, that true criterion of naval courage. But not a word against French bravery, there is plenty of it, but not of the right sort. A Yankees, or an Englishman's, is the downright Waterloo game. The French fight better on land, and not being essentially a maritime people, they ought to stay there. The best of shipwrights, they are no sailors. And this carries me back to the Rhine Blanche, as noble a specimen of what wood and iron can make as ever floated. She was a new ship, the present her maiden cruise. The greatest pains having been taken in her construction, she was accounted the crack craft in the French navy. She is one of the heavy sixty gun frigates now in vogue all over the world, and which we Yankees were the first to introduce. In action these are the most murderous vessels ever launched. The model of the Rhine Blanche has all that war-like comeliness only to be seen in a fine fighting ship. Still there is a good deal of French flummery about her. Grass plates and other gougas stuck on all over like bobbles on a handsome woman. Among other things she carries a stern gallery resting on the uplifted hands of two cariatities larger than life. You step out upon this from the Commodore's cabin. To behold the rich hangings and mirrors and mahogany within, one is almost prepared to see a bevy of ladies trip forth on the balcony for an airing. But come to tread the gun-deck, and all thoughts like these are put to flight. Such batteries of thunderbolt hurlers, with a sixty-eight pounder or two thrown in as make-weights, on the spar-deck also are caranades of enormous caliber. Recently built, this vessel of course had the benefit of the latest improvements. I was quite amazed to see on what high principles of art some exceedingly simple things were done. But your gall is scientific about everything. What other people accomplish by a few hard knocks he delights in achieving by a complex arrangement of the pulley, lever, and screw. What demi-semi-quavers in a French air? In exchanging naval courtesies I have known a French band play Yankee Doodle with such a string of variations that no one but a pretty cute Yankee could tell what they were at. In the French navy they have no marines. Their men, taking turns at carrying the musket, are sailors one moment and soldiers the next. A fellow running aloft in his line frock today, to-morrow stands sentry at the admiral's cabin door. This is fatal to anything like proper sailor pride. To make a man a seamen, he should be put to no other duty. Indeed, a thorough tar is unfit for anything else. And what is more, this fact is the best evidence of his being a true sailor. On board the Rhine Blanche they did not have enough to eat, and what they did have was not of the right sort. Instead of letting the sailors file their teeth against the rim of a hard sea-bisket, they baked their bread daily in pitiful little rolls. Then they had no grog. As a substitute they drugged the poor fellows with a thin, sour wine, the juice of a few grapes, perhaps, to a pint of the juice of water facets. Moreover the sailors asked for meat, and they gave them soup, a rascally substitute as they well knew. Ever since leaving home they had been on short allowance. At the present time those belonging to the boats, and thus getting an occasional opportunity to run ashore, frequently sold their rations of bread to some less fortunate shipmate for sixfold its real value. Another thing tending to promote dissatisfaction among the crew was their having such a devil of a fellow for a captain. He was one of those horrid naval boars, a great disciplinarian. In port he kept them constantly exercising yards and sails, and maneuvering with the boats, and at sea they were forever at quarters, running in and out the enormous guns as if their arms were made for nothing else. Then there was the admiral aboard also, and no doubt he, too, had a paternal eye over them. In the ordinary routine of duty we could not but be struck with the listless, slovenly behavior of these men. There was nothing of the national vivacity in their movements, nothing of the quick precision perceptible on the deck of a thoroughly disciplined armed vessel. All this, however, when we came to know the reason, was no matter of surprise. Three-fourths of them were pressed men. Some old merchant sailors had been seized the very day they landed from distant voyages, while the landsmen, of whom there were many, had been driven down from the country in herds and so sent to sea. At the time I was quite amazed to hear of press gangs in a day of comparative peace, but the anomaly is accounted for by the fact that, of late, the French had been building up a great military marine to take the place of that which Nelson gave to the waves of the sea at Trafalgar. But it is to be hoped that they are not building their ships for the people across the Channel to take. In case of a war, what a fluttering of French ensigns there would be. Though I say the French are no sailors, I am far from seeking to underrate them as a people. They are an ingenious and right-gallant nation, and as an American I take pride in asserting it. Chapter thirty. They take us ashore, what happened there. Five days and nights, if I remember right, we were aboard the frigate. On the afternoon of the fifth we were told that the next morning she sailed for Valparaiso. Rejoiced at this, we prayed for a speedy passage. But, as it turned out, the consul had no idea of letting us off so easily. To our no small surprise an officer came along toward night and ordered us out of irons. Being then mustered in the gangway, we were escorted into a cutter alongside and pulled ashore. Acosted by Wilson as we struck the beach, he delivered us up to a numerous guard of natives, who had once conducted us to a house nearby. Here we were made to sit down under a shade without, and the consul and two elderly European residents passed by us and entered. After some delay, during which we were much diverted by the hilarious good nature of our guard, one of our number was called out for, followed by an order for him to enter the house alone. On returning a moment after, he told us we had little to encounter. It had simply been asked whether he still continued of the same mind. In replying, yes, something was put down upon a piece of paper, and he was waved outside. All being summoned in rotation, my own turn came at last. Within, Wilson and his two friends were seated magisterially at a table, an ink stand, a pen, and a sheet of paper, lending quite a business-like air to the apartment. These three gentlemen, being arrayed in coats and pantaloons, looked respectable, at least in a country where complete suits of garments were so seldom met with. One present is said a solemn aspect, but having a short neck and a full face only made out to look stupid. It was this individual who condescended to take a paternal interest in myself. After declaring my resolution with respect to the ship unalterable, I was proceeding to withdraw, in compliance with the sign from the consul, when the stranger turned round to him, saying, Wait a minute, if you please, Mr. Wilson, let me talk to that youth. Come here, my young friend. I am extremely sorry to see you associated with these bad men. Do you know what it will end in? Oh, that's the lad that wrote the round robin, interposed the consul. He and that rascally doctor are at the bottom of the whole affair. Go outside, sir. I retired as from the presence of royalty, backing out with many bows. The evident prejudice of Wilson against both the doctor and myself was by no means inexplicable. A man of any education before the mast is always looked upon with dislike by his captain. And never mind how peaceable he may be, should any disturbance arise from his intellectual superiority, he is deemed to exert an underhand influence against the officers. Little as I had seen of Captain Guy, the few glances cast upon me after being on board a week or so were sufficient to reveal his enmity, a feeling quickened by my undisguised companionship with long ghost, whom he both feared and cordially hated. Guy's relations with the consul readily explains the latter's hostility. The examination over, Wilson and his friends advanced to the doorway, when the former, assuming a severe expression, pronounced our perverseness infatuation in the extreme. Nor was there any hope left. Our last chance for pardon was gone. Even were we to become contrite and crave permission to return to duty, it would not now be permitted. Oh, get along with your gammon, consular! exclaimed Black Dan, absolutely indignant that his understanding should be thus insulted. Quite enraged, Wilson bade him hold his peace, and then, summoning a fat old native to his side, addressed him into Haitian, giving directions for leading us away to a place of safe keeping. Hereupon, being marshaled in order with the old man at our head, we were put in motion with loud shouts along a fine pathway, running far on through wide groves of the coconut and breadfruit. The rest of our escort trotted on beside us in a high good humor, jabbering broken English, and in a hundred ways giving us to understand that Wilson was no favorite of theirs, and that we were prime good fellows for holding out as we did. They seemed to know our whole history. The scenery around was delightful, the tropical day was fast drawing to a close, and from where we were the sun looked like a vast red fire burning in the woodlands, its rays falling a slant through the endless ranks of trees, and every leaf fringed with flame. Escaped from the confined decks of the frigate, the air breathed spices to us, streams were heard flowing, green boughs were rocking, and far inland, all sunset flushed, rose the still, steep peaks of the island. As we proceeded, I was more and more struck by the picturesqueness of the wide shaded road. In several places, durable bridges of wood were thrown over large water courses, others were spanned by a single arch of stone. In any part of the road, three horsemen might have ridden a breast. This beautiful avenue, by far the best thing which civilization has done for the island, is called by foreigners, the Broom Road, though for what reason I do not know. Originally planned for the convenience of the missionaries, journeying from one station to another, it almost completely encompasses the larger peninsula, skirting for a distance of at least sixty miles along the low fertile lands bordering the sea. But on the side next Tyarbu, or the lesser peninsula, it sweeps through a narrow secluded valley, and thus crosses the island in that direction. The uninhabited interior, being almost impenetrable from the densely wooded glens, frightful precipices, and sharp mountain ridges absolutely inaccessible, is but little known, even to the natives themselves. And so, instead of striking directly across from one village to another, they follow the Broom Road round and round. Footnote. Concerning the singular ignorance of the natives respecting their own country, it may be here observed that a considerable inland lake, why Haria by name, is known to exist, although their accounts of it strangely vary. Some told me it had no bottom, no outlet, and no inlet. Others, that it fed all the streams on the island. A sailor of my acquaintance said that he once visited this marvelous lake as one of an exploring party from an English sloop of war. It was found to be a great curiosity, very small, deep, and green, a choice well of water bottled up among the mountains and abounding with delicious fish. Footnote. It was by no means, however, altogether traveled on foot, horses being now quite plentiful. They were introduced from chilly, and possessing all the gaity, fleetness, and docility of the Spanish breed are admirably adapted to the tastes of the higher classes, who as equestrians have become very expert. The missionaries and chiefs never think of journeying except in the saddle, and at all hours of the day you see the latter galloping along at full speed. Like the sandwich islanders, they ride like pony loops. For miles and miles I have traveled the broom-road and never wearied of the continual change of scenery, but wherever it leads you, whether through level woods, across grassy glens, or over hills waving with palms, the bright blue sea on one side and the green mountain pinnacles on the other are always in sight. End of chapters 29 and 30. Chapter 31 The Calabusa Baritani About a mile from the village we came to a halt. It was a beautiful spot. A mountain stream here flowed at the foot of a verdant slope. On one hand it murmured along until the waters, spreading themselves upon a beach of small sparkling shells, trickled into the sea. On the other was a long defile where the eye pursued a gleaming, sinuous thread, lost in shade and verdure. The ground next to the road was walled in by a low, rude parapet of stones, and upon the summit of the slope beyond was a large native house, the thatched dazzling white and in shape an oval. Calabusa! Calabusa Baritani! The English jail cried our conductor pointing to the building. For a few months past, having been used by the council as a place of confinement for his refractory sailors, it was thus styled to distinguish it from similar places in an about apathy. Though extremely romantic in appearance, on a near approach it proved but ill adapted to domestic comfort. In short, it was a mere shell, recently built, and still unfinished. It was open all round, and tufts of grass were growing here and there under the very roof. The only piece of furniture was the stocks, a clumsy machine for keeping people in one place, which I believe is pretty much out of date in most countries. It is still in use, however, among the Spaniards in South America, from whom it seems the Tahitians have borrowed the contrivance, as well as the name by which all places of confinement are known among them. The stocks were nothing more than two stout timbers about twenty feet in length and precisely alike. One was placed edgeways on the ground, and the other resting on top left at regular intervals along the seam several round holes, the object of which was evident at a glance. By this time our guide had informed us that he went by the name of Captain Bob, Captain Bob, and a hardy old Bob he proved. It was just the name for him. From the first, so pleased were we with the old man that we cheerfully acquiesced in his authority. Entering the building, he set us about fetching heaps of dry leaves to spread behind the stocks for a couch. A trunk of a small coconut tree was then placed for a bolster, rather a hard one, but the natives are used to it. For a pillow they use a little billet of wood, scooped out, and standing on four short legs, a sort of headstool. These arrangements completed Captain Bob proceeded to hannopar or secure us for the night. The upper timber of the machine being lifted at one end, and our ankles placed in the semicircular spaces of the lower one, the other beam was then dropped, both being finally secured together by an old iron hoop at either extremity. This initiation was performed to the boisterous mirth of the natives, and diverted ourselves not a little. Captain Bob now bustled about, like an old woman seeing the children to bed. A basket of baked taro or Indian turnip was brought in, and we were given a piece all round. Then a great counterpane of coarse brown tappa was stretched over the whole party, and after sundry injunctions to moi moi and be mai tai, in other words, to go to sleep and be good boys, we were left to ourselves fairly put to bed and tucked in. Much talk was now had concerning our prospects in life, but the doctor and I, who lay side by side, thinking the occasion better adapted to meditation, kept pretty silent, and before long the rest ceased conversing, and we reared with loss of rest on board the frigate, were soon sound asleep. After sliding from one reverie into another, I started and gave the doctor a pinch. He was dreaming, however, and resolved to follow his example, I troubled him no more. How the rest managed, I know not, but for my own part I found it very hard to get asleep. The consciousness of having one's foot pinned, and the impossibility of getting it anywhere else than just where it was, was most distressing. But this was not all. There was no way of lying but straight on your back, unless, to be sure, one's limb went round and round in the ankle like a swivel. Upon getting into a sort of dose, it was no wonder this uneasy posture gave me the nightmare. Under the delusion that I was about some gymnastics or other, I gave my unfortunate member such a twitch that I started up with the idea that someone was dragging the stocks away. Captain Bob and his friends lived in a little hamlet hard by, and when the morning showed in the east, the old gentleman came forth from that direction likewise, emerging from a grove and saluting us loudly as he approached. Finding everybody awake, he set us at liberty, and, leading us down to the stream, ordered every man to strip and bathe. All hands, my boy, Hannah Hannah wash, he cried. Bob was a linguist, and had been to see in his day, as he many a time afterward told us. At this moment we were all alone with him, and it would have been the easiest thing in the world to have given him the slip. But he seemed to have no idea of such a thing, treating us so frankly and cordially, indeed, that even had we thought of running, we would have been ashamed of attempting it. He very well knew, nevertheless, as we ourselves were not slow in finding out, that, for various reasons, any attempt of the kind, without some previously arranged plan for leaving the island, would be certain to fail. As Bob was a rare one every way, I must give some account of him. There was a good deal of personal appearance about him. In short, he was a corpulent giant, over six feet in height, and literally as big round as a hog's head. The enormous bulk of some of the Tahitians has been frequently spoken of by voyagers. Besides being the English consul's jailer, as it were, he carried on a little Tahitian farming, that is to say, he owned several groves of the breadfruit and palm, and never hindered their growing. Close by was a taro patch of his which he occasionally visited. Bob Seldom disposed of the produce of his lands. It was all needed for domestic consumption. Indeed, for gormandizing, I would have matched him against any three common councilmen at a civic feast. A friend of Bob's told me, that owing to his voraciousness, his visits to other parts of the island were much dreaded. For, according to Tahitian customs, hospitality without charge is enjoined upon everyone. And though it is reciprocal in most cases, in Bob's it was almost out of the question. The damage done to a native larder in one of his morning calls was more than could be made good by his entertainers spending the holy days with him. The old man, as I have hinted, had, once upon a time, been a cruiser to in a wailing vessel, and therefore he prided himself upon his English. Having acquired what he knew of it in the folksal, he talked little else than sailor phrases, which sounded whimsically enough. I asked him one day how old he was. Olly, he exclaimed, looking very profound in consequence of thoroughly understanding, so subtle a question. Oh, very olly, thousand-year more, big man when Cap and Tooty, Captain Cook, heavey in sight, in sea parlance came into view. This was a thing impossible, but adapting my discourse to the man I rejoined, ah, you see, Cap and Tooty, well, how you like him. Oh, he might I, good, friend of me, and know my wife. On my assuring him strongly, that he could not have been born at the time, he explained himself by saying that he was speaking of his father all the while. This indeed might very well have been. It is a curious fact that all these people, young and old, will tell you that they have enjoyed the honor of a personal acquaintance with the great navigator, and if you listen to them, they will go on until anecdotes without end. This springs from nothing but their great desire to please, while knowing that a more agreeable topic for a white man could not be selected. As for the anachronism of the thing, they seem to have no idea of it. Days and years are all the same to them. After our sunrise bath, Bob once more placed us in the stocks, almost moved to tears at subjecting us to so great a hardship. But he could not treat us otherwise, he said, on pain of the council's displeasure. How long we were to be confined, he did not know, nor what was to be done with us in the end. As noon advanced and no signs of a meal were visible, someone inquired whether we were to be boarded as well as lodged at the Hotel de Calabusa. Vast heavy, a vast heaving or wait a bit, said Bob. Cow-cow, food, come ship by by. And sure enough, along comes rope yarn with a wooden bucket of the Julia's villainous biscuit. With a grin, he said it was a present from Wilson. It was all we were to get that day. A great cry was now raised, and well was it for the landlubber that he had a pair of legs and the men could not use theirs. One and all, we resolved not to touch the bread, come what come might, and so we told the natives. Being extravagantly fond of ship biscuit, the harder the better, they were quite overjoyed, and offered to give us every day a small quantity of baked breadfruit and an Indian turnip in exchange for the bread. This we agreed to, and every morning afterward, when the bucket came, its contents were at once handed over to Bob and his friends, who never ceased munching until nightfall. Our exceedingly frugal meal of breadfruit over, Captain Bob waddled up to us with a couple of long poles hooked on one end and several large baskets of woven coconut branches. Not far off was an extensive grove of orange trees in full bearing, and myself and another were selected to go with him and gather a supply for the party. When we went in among the trees, the sumptuousness of the orchard was unlike anything I had ever seen, while the fragrance shaken from the gently waving boughs regaled our senses most delightfully. In many places, the trees formed a dense shade, spreading overhead a dark rustling vault, groin'd with boughs, and studded here and there with the ripened spheres, like gilded balls. In several places, the overladen branches were born to the earth, hiding the trunk in a tent of foliage. Once fairly in the grove, we could see nothing else. It was oranges all round. To preserve the fruit from bruising, Bob, hooking the twigs with his pole, let them fall into his basket. But this would not do for us. Seizing hold of a bow, we brought such a shower to the ground that our old friend was feigned to run from under. Heedless of remonstrance, we then reclined in the shade and feasted to our heart's content. Keeping up the baskets afterward, we returned to our comrades, by whom our arrival was hailed with loud plaudits. And in a marvelously short time, nothing was left of the oranges we brought but the rinds. While inmates of the Calabusa, we had as much of the fruit as we wanted, and to this cause and others that might be mentioned may be ascribed to the speedy restoration of our sick to comparative health. The orange of Tahiti is delicious, small and sweet, with a thin dry rind. Though now abounding, it was unknown before Cook's time, to whom the natives are indebted for so great a blessing. He likewise introduced several other kinds of fruit. Among these were the fig, pineapple, and lemon, now seldom met with. The lime still grows, and some of the poorer natives express the juice to sell to the shipping. It is highly valued as an anti-scorbutic. Nor was the variety of foreign fruits and vegetables, which were introduced the only benefit conferred by the first visitors to the society group. Cattle and sheep were left at various places, more of them a non. Thus, after all that have of late years been done for these islanders, Cook and Vancouver may, in one sense at least, be considered their greatest benefactors. Chapter 32 Proceedings of the French at Tahiti As I happened to arrive at the island at a very interesting period in its political affairs, it may be well to give some little account here of the proceedings of the French by way of episode to the narrative. My information was obtained at the time from the general reports, then rife among the natives, as well as from what I learned upon a subsequent visit, and reliable accounts which I have seen since reaching home. It seems that for some time back the French had been making repeated ineffectual attempts to plant a Roman Catholic mission here. But invariably treated with contumely, they sometimes met with open violence, and in every case, those directly concerned in the enterprise were ultimately forced to depart. In one instance, two priests, Laval and Cassay, after enduring a series of persecutions, were set upon by the natives, maltreated, and finally carried aboard a small trading schooner, which eventually put them ashore at Wallace Island, a savage place, some 2,000 miles to the westward. Now, that the resident English missionaries authorized the banishment of these priests is a fact undenied by themselves. I was also repeatedly informed that by their inflammatory harangues they instigated the riots which preceded the sailings of the schooner. At all events, it is certain that their unbounded influence with the natives would easily have enabled them to prevent everything that took place on this occasion had they felt so inclined. Melancholia such an example of intolerance on the part of Protestant missionaries must appear, it is not the only one, and by no means the most flagrant, which might be presented. But I forbear to mention any others, since they have been more than hinted at by recent voyagers and their repetition here would, perhaps, be attended with no good effect. Besides, the conduct of the sandwich island missionaries in particular has latterly much amended in this respect. The treatment of the two priests formed the principal ground and the only justifiable one upon which Dupedit Thouard demanded satisfaction, and which subsequently led to his seizure of the island. In addition to other things, he also charged that the flag of Marinhout, the consul, had been repeatedly insulted, and the property of a certain French resident violently appropriated by the government. In the latter instance, the natives were perfectly in the right. At that time, the law against the traffic and ardent spirits, every now and then suspended and revived, happened to be in force, and finding a large quantity on the premises of Victor, a low, navish adventurer from Marseille, the Tahitians pronounced it forfeit. For these, and similar alleged outrages, a large pecuniary restitution was demanded, ten thousand dollars, which there being no ex-checker to supply, the island was forthwith seized under cover of a mock treaty dictated to the chiefs on the gun deck of Dupedit Thouard's frigate. But, notwithstanding this formality, there now seems little doubt that the downfall of the palmaries was decided upon at the Tuyeres. After establishing the protectorate, so called, the rear admiral sailed, leaving Monsieur Bruis governor, assisted by Rhine and Carpaine, civilians, named members of the Council of Government, and Marinhoud, the Council, now made Commissioner Royal. No soldiers, however, were landed until several months afterward. As men, Rhine and Carpaine were not disliked by the natives, but Bruis and Marinhoud, they bitterly detested. In several interviews with the poor queen, the unfeeling governor sought to terrify her into compliance with his demands, clapping his hand upon his sword, shaking his fist in her face, and swearing violently. Oh, king of a great nation, said Pammerie, in her letter to Louis Philippe, fetch away this man. I and my people cannot endure his evil doings. He is a shameless man. Although the excitement among the natives did not wholly subside upon the rear admiral's departure, no overt act of violence immediately followed. The queen had fled to Imio, and the dissensions among the chiefs, together with the ill-advised conduct of the missionaries, prevented a union upon some common plan of resistance. But the great body of the people, as well as their queen, confidently relied upon the speedy interposition of England, a nation bound to them by many ties, and which more than once had solemnly guaranteed their independence. As for the missionaries, they openly defied the French governor, childishly predicting fleets and armies from Britain. But what is the welfare of a spot like Tahiti to the mighty interests of France and England? There was a remonstrance on one side and a reply on the other. And there the matter rested. For once in their brawling lives, St. George and St. Dennis were hand in glove, and they were not going to cross sabers about Tahiti. During my stay upon the island, so far as I could see, there was little to denote that any change had taken place in the government. Such laws as they had were administered the same as ever. The missionaries went about unmolested, and comparative tranquility everywhere prevailed. Nevertheless, I sometimes heard the natives invading against the French, no favourites by the by throughout Polynesia, and bitterly regretting that the queen had not at the outset made a stand. In the house of the chief Adéa, frequent discussions took place concerning the ability of the island to cope with the French. The number of fighting men and muskets among the natives were talked of, as well as the propriety of fortifying several heights overlooking Pappity. Imputing these symptoms to the mere resentment of a recent outrage, and not to any determined spirit of resistance, I little anticipated the gallant, though useless warfare, so soon to follow my departure. At a period subsequent to my first visit, the island, which before was divided into nineteen districts, with a native chief over each in capacity of governor and judge, was, by Brua, divided into four. Over these he set as many recreational chiefs, Qutodi, Tadi, Utamai, and Paraita, to whom he paid one thousand dollars each, to secure their assistance in carrying out his evil designs. The first blood shed in any regular conflict was at Mahanar upon the peninsula of Terribo. The fight originated in the seizure of a number of women from the shore by men belonging to one of the French vessels of war. In this affair the islanders fought desperately, killing about fifty of the enemy, and losing ninety of their own number. The French sailors and marines, who at the time were reported to be infuriated with liquor, gave no quarter, and the survivors only saved themselves by fleeing to the mountains. Subsequently the battles of Harar-Parpai and Fararar were fought, in which the invaders met with indifferent success. Shortly after the engagement at Harar-Parpai, three Frenchmen were waylaid in a pass of the valleys, and murdered by the incensed natives. One was Lafarve, a notorious scoundrel and a spy, whom Bruwa had sent to conduct a certain major fergus, said to be a pole, to the hiding place of poor chiefs, whom the governor wished to seize and execute. This circumstance violently inflamed the hostility of both parties. About this time Kittotai, a depraved chief, and the pliant tool of Bruwa, was induced by him to give a great feast in the Vale of Paris, to which all his countrymen were invited. The governor's object was to gain over all he could to his interests. He supplied an abundance of wine and brandy, and a scene of bestial intoxication was the natural consequence. Before it came to this, however, several speeches were made by the islanders. One of these, delivered by an aged warrior, who had formerly been at the head of the celebrated RERI society, was characteristic. This is a very good feast, said the reeling old man, and the wine also is very good, but you evil-minded wee-wees, French, and you false-hearted men of Tahiti, are all very bad. By the latest accounts most of the islanders still refuse to submit to the French, and what turn events may hereafter take it is hard to predict. At any rate these disorders must accelerate the final extinction of their race. Along with the few officers left by Dupédé Thoir, were several French priests, for whose unobstructed exertions in the dissemination of their faith, the strongest guarantees were provided by an article of the treaty. But no one was bound to offer them facilities, much less a luncheon, the first day they went ashore. True, they had plenty of gold, but to the natives it was anathema, taboo, and for several hours in some odd minutes they would not touch it. Emissaries of the Pope and the Devil, as the strangers were considered, the smell of sulfur hardly yet shaken out of their canonicals, what islander would venture to jeopardize his soul and call down a blight upon his breadfruit by holding any intercourse with them. That morning the priests actually picnic in a grove of coconut trees, but before night Christian hospitality, in exchange for a commercial equivalent of hard dollars, was given them in an adjoining house. Wanting in civility, as the conduct of the English missionaries may be thought, in withholding a decent reception to these persons, the latter were certainly to blame in needlessly placing themselves in so unpleasant a predicament. Under far better auspices, they might have settled upon some one of the thousand unconverted aisles of the Pacific, rather than have forced themselves thus upon a people already professedly Christians. We receive calls at the Hotel de Calabusa. Our place of confinement being open all round, and so near the broom-road, of course we were in plain sight of everybody passing, and therefore we had no lack of visitors among such an idle inquisitive set as the Tahitians. For a few days they were coming and going continually, while thus ignobally fast by the foot, we were famed to give passive audience. During this period we were the lions of the neighborhood, and no doubt strangers from the distant villages were taken to see the carhalrys white men in the same way that countrymen in a city are gallanted to the zoological gardens. All this gave us a fine opportunity of making observations. I was painfully struck by the considerable number of sickly or deformed persons, undoubtedly made so by a virulent complaint, which under native treatment almost invariably affects in the end the muscles and bones of the body. In particular there is a distortion of the back, most unsightly to behold, originating in a horrible form of the malady. Although this and other bodily afflictions were unknown before the discovery of the islands by the whites, there are several cases found of the Fafa or Elephantiasis, a native disease which seems to have prevailed among them from the earliest antiquity. Affecting the legs and feet alone, it swells them in some instances to the girth of a man's body, covering the skin with scales. It might be supposed that one thus afflicted would be incapable of walking, but to all appearance they seem to be nearly as active as anybody, apparently suffering no pain and bearing the calamity with a degree of cheerfulness truly marvelous. The Fafa is very gradual in its approaches, and years elapse before the limb is full swollen. Its origin is ascribed by the natives to various causes, but the general impression seems to be that it arises in most cases from the eating of unripe breadfruit and Indian turnip. So far as I could find out it is not hereditary. In no stage do they attempt to cure, the complaint being held incurable. Speaking of the Fafa, reminds me of a poor fellow, a sailor, whom I afterward saw at Rurutu alone island some two days sail from Tahiti. The island is very small and its inhabitants nearly extinct. We sent a boat off to see whether any yams were to be had, as formerly the yams of Rurutu were as famous among the islands round about as Sicily oranges in the Mediterranean. Going ashore, to my surprise, I was accosted near a little shanty of a church by a white man who limped forth from a wretched hut. His hair and beard were unshorn, his face deadly pale and haggard, and one limb swelled with the Fafa to an incredible bigness. This was the first instance of a foreigner suffering from it that I had ever seen or heard of. And the spectacle shocked me accordingly. He had been there for years. From the first symptoms, he could not believe his complaint to be what it really was, and trusted it would soon disappear. But when it became plain that his only chance for recovery was a speedy change of climate, no ship would receive him as a sailor. To think of being taken as a passenger was idle. This speaks little for the humanity of sea captains, but the truth is that those in the Pacific have little enough of the virtue, and nowadays when so many charitable appeals are made to them they have become callous. I pitied the poor fellow from the bottom of my heart, but nothing could I do as our captain was inexorable. Why, said he, here we are, started on a six-month cruise, I can't put back, and he is better off on the island than at sea. So on Rurutu he must die, and probably he did. I afterward heard of this melancholy object from two sea men. His attempts to leave were still unavailing, and his hard fate was fast closing in. Notwithstanding the physical degeneracy of the Tahitians as a people among the chiefs, individuals of personable figures are still frequently met with, and occasionally majestic-looking men and diminutive women, as lovely as the nymphs who nearly a century ago swam round the ships of Wallace. In these instances Tahitian beauty is quite as seducing as it proved to the crew of the bounty, the young girls being just such creatures as a poet would picture in the tropics, soft, plump, and dreamy-eyed. The natural complexion of both sexes is quite light, but the males appear much darker from their exposure to the sun. A dark complexion, however, in a man is highly esteemed, as indicating strength of both body and soul. Hence there is a saying of great antiquity among them, quote, If dark the cheek of the mother, the sun will sound the war-conk. If strong her frame, he will give laws, end quote. With this idea of manliness, no wonder the Tahitians regard all pale and tepid-looking Europeans as weak and feminine, whereas a sailor, with a cheek like the breast of a roast turkey, is held a lad of brawn, to use their own phrase, a tatatona, or man of bones. Speaking of bones recalls an ugly custom of theirs now obsolete, that of making fishhooks and gimblets out of those of their enemies. This beats the Scandinavians turning people's skulls into cups and saucers. But to return to the Calabusa Beretani, immense was the interest we excited among the throngs that called there. They would stand talking about us by the hour, growing most unnecessarily excited too, and dancing up and down with all the vivacity of their race. They invariably sided with us, flying out against the consul, and denouncing him as Itamaiti Nui, or very bad exceedingly. They must have borne him some grudge or other. Nor were the women sweet souls at all backward in visiting. Indeed, they manifested even more interest than the men, gazing at us with eyes full of a thousand meanings, and conversing with marvelous rapidity. But alas, inquisitive though they were, and doubtless taking some passing compassion on us, there was little real feeling in them after all, and still less sentimental sympathy. Many of them laughed outright at us, noting only what was ridiculous in our plight. I think it was the second day of our confinement that a wild, beautiful girl burst into the Calabusa, and, throwing herself into an arch attitude, stood afar off and gazed at us. She was a heartless one, tickled to death with Black Dan's nursing his chafed ankle, and indulging in certain moral reflections on the consul and captain guy. After laughing her fill at him, she condescended to notice the rest, glancing from one to another, in the most methodical and provoking manner imaginable. Whenever anything struck her comically, you saw it like a flash, her finger leveled instantaneously, and, flinging herself back, she gave loose to strange, hollow little notes of laughter that sounded like the bass of a music box, playing a lively air with the lid down. Now, I know not that there was anything in my own appearance calculated to disarm ridicule, and indeed to have looked at all heroic under the circumstances would have been rather difficult. Still, I could not but feel exceedingly annoyed at the prospect of being screamed at in turn by this mischievous young witch, even though she were but an islander. And to tell a secret, her beauty had something to do with this sort of feeling, and, pinioned as I was, to allod, and clad most unbecomingly, I began to grow sentimental. Air her glance fell upon me, I had unconsciously thrown myself into the most graceful attitude I could assume, leaned my head upon my hand, and summoned up as abstracted in expression as possible. Though my face was averted, I soon felt it flush, and knew that the glance was on me. Deeper and deeper grew the flush, and not a sound of laughter. Delicious thought, she was moved at the sight of me. I could stand it no longer, but started up. Low there she was, her great hazel eyes rounding and rounding in her head, like two stars, her whole frame in a merry quiver, and an expression about her mouth that was sudden and violent death to anything like sentiment. The next moment she spun around, and bursting from peel to peel of laughter, went racing out of the Calabusa, and in mercy to me never returned. Chapter 34 Life at the Calabusa A few days passed, and at last, our docility was rewarded by some indulgence on the part of Captain Bob. He allowed the whole party to be at large during the day, only enjoining upon us always to keep within hail. This, to be sure, was in positive disobedience to Wilson's orders, and so care had to be taken that he should not hear of it. There was little fear of the natives telling him, but strangers travelling the Broom Road might. By way of precaution, boys were stationed as scouts along the road. At sight of a white man, they sounded the alarm. When we all made for our respective holes, the stocks being purposely left open, the beam then descended, and we were prisoners. As soon as the traveller was out of sight, of course we were liberated. Notwithstanding the regular supply of food, which we obtained from Captain Bob and his friends, it was so small that we often felt most intolerably hungry. We could not blame them for not bringing us more, for we soon became aware that they had to pinch themselves in order to give us what they did. Beside, they received nothing for their kindness, but the daily bucket of bread. Among a people like the Tahitians, what we call hard times, can only be experienced in the scarcity of edibles. Yet, so destitute are many of the common people, that this most distressing consequence of civilization may be said with them to be ever present. To be sure, the natives about the Calibusa had abundance of limes and oranges. But what were these good for, except to impart a still keener edge to appetites, which there was so little else to gratify? During the height of the breadfruit season, they fare better. But at other times, the demands of the shipping exhaust the uncultivated resources of the island, and the lands being mostly owned by the chiefs, the inferior orders have to suffer for their cupidity. Deprived of their nets, many of them would starve. As Captain Bob insensibly remitted his watchfulness, and we began to stroll farther and farther from the Calibusa, we managed by a systematic foraging upon the country round about to make up for some of our deficiencies. And fortunate it was, that the houses of the wealthier natives were just as open to us as those of the most destitute. We were treated as kindly in one as the other. Once in a while, we came in at the death of a chief's pig, the noise of whose slaughtering was generally to be heard at a great distance. An occasion like this gathers the neighbors together, and they have a bit of a feast, where a stranger is always welcome. A good loud squeal, therefore, was music in our ears. It showed something going on in that direction. Breaking in upon the party tumultuously as we did, we always created a sensation. Sometimes we found the animal still alive and struggling, in which case it was generally dropped at our approach. To provide for these emergencies, Flashjack generally repaired to the scene of operations with a sheath knife between his teeth and a club in his hand. Others were exceedingly officious in singeing off the bristles and disemboweling. Dr. Longhost and myself, however, never meddled with these preliminaries, but came to the feast itself with unimpaired energies. Like all Lank men, my long friend had an appetite of his own. Others occasionally went about seeking what they might devour, but he was always on the alert. He had an ingenious way of obviating an inconvenience which we all experienced at times. The islanders seldom used salt with their food, so he begged Ropiarne to bring him some from the ship, also a little pepper if he could, which accordingly was done. This he placed in a small leather wallet, a monkey-bag so called by sailors, usually worn as a purse about the neck. In my poor opinion, said Longhost as he tucked the wallet out of sight, it behooves a stranger into Hedi to have his knife in readiness and his caster slung. Chapter 35 Visit from an old acquaintance We had not been many days ashore when Dr. Johnson was despised coming along the broom-road. We had heard that he meditated a visit and suspected what he was after. Being upon the council's hands, all our expenses were of course payable by him in his official capacity, and therefore as a friend of Wilson and sure of good pay, the shore doctor had some idea of allowing us to run up a bill with him. True, it was rather awkward to ask us to take medicines, which on board the ship he told us were not needed. However, he resolved to put a bold face on the matter and give us a call. His approach was announced by one of the scouts, upon which someone suggested that we should let him enter and then put him in the stocks. But Longhost proposed better sport. What it was, we shall presently see. Very bland and amiable, Dr. Johnson advanced, and resting his cane on the stocks, glanced to the right and left as we lay before him. Well, my lads, he began, how do you find yourselves today? Looking very demure, the men made some rejoinder, and he went on. Those poor fellows I saw the other day, the sick I mean, how are they? and he scrutinized the company. At last he singled out one who was assuming a most unearthly appearance and remarked that he looked as if he were extremely ill. Yes, said the sailor dolefully, I'm a feared doctor, I'll soon be losing the number of my mess. A sea phrase for departing this life, and he closed his eyes and moaned. What does he say? said Johnson, turning round eagerly. Why, exclaimed Flashjack, who volunteered as interpreter, he means he's going to croak, die. Croak, and what does that mean, applied to a patient. Oh, I understand, said he when the word was explained, and he stepped over the stocks and felt the man's pulse. What's his name? he asked, turning this time to Old Navy Bob. We calls him Jingling Joe, replied that worthy. Well then, men, you must take good care of poor Joseph, and I will send him a powder, which must be taken according to the directions. Some of you know how to read, I presume? That ere young Cove does, replied Bob, pointing toward the place where I lay, as if he were directing attention to a sail at sea. After examining the rest, some of whom were really invalids, but convalescent, and others only pretending to be laboring under diverse maladies, Johnson turned round and addressed the party. Men, said he, if any more of you are ailing, speak up and let me know. By order of the council, I'm to call every day, so if any of you are at all sick, it's my duty to prescribe for you. This sudden change from ship-bear to shore-living plays the deuce with you sailors, so be cautious about eating fruit. Good day, I'll send you the medicines the first thing in the morning. Now I am inclined to suspect that with all his want of understanding, Johnson must have had some idea that we were quizzing him. Still, that was nothing so long as it answered his purpose, and therefore, if he did see through us, he never showed it. Sure enough, at the time appointed, along came a native lad with a small basket of coconut stocks filled with powders, pillboxes, and vials, each with names and directions written in a large round hand. The sailors, one and all, made a snatch at the collection under the strange impression that some of the vials were seasoned with spirits. But, asserting his privilege as physician to the first reading of the labels, Dr. Longost was at last permitted to take possession of the basket. The first thing lighted upon was a large vial labelled for William Rubwell Inn. This vial certainly had a spiritual smell, and upon handing it to the patient, he made a summary internal application of its contents. The doctor looked aghast. There was now a mighty commotion. Powders and pills were voted mere drugs in the market, and the holders of vials were pronounced lucky dogs. Johnson must have known enough of sailors to make some of his medicines palatable. This, at least, Longost suspected. Certain it was, everyone took to the vials. If at all spicy, directions were unheeded, their contents all going one road. The largest one of all, quite a bottle indeed, and having a sort of burnt brandy odor, was labelled for Daniel, drink freely, and until relieved. This, Black Dan proceeded to do, and would have made an end of it at once, had not the bottle, after a hard struggle, been snatched from his hands, and passed round like a jovial decanter. The old tar had complained of the effects of an immoderate eating of fruit. Upon calling the following morning, our physician found his precious row of patients reclining behind the stalks, and doing as well as could be expected. But the pills and powders were found to have been perfectly inactive, probably because none had been taken. To make them efficacious, it was suggested that, for the future, a bottle of Pisco should be sent along with them. According to Flashjack's notions, unmitigated medical compounds were but dry stuff at the best, and needed something good to wash them down. Thus far, our own MD, Dr. Longost, after starting the frolic, had taken no further part in it. But on the physician's third visit, he took him to one side, and had a private confabulation. What it was exactly we could not tell, but from certain illustrative signs and gestures, I fancied that he was describing the symptoms of some mysterious disorganization of the vitals, which must have come on within the hour. Assisted by his familiarity with medical terms, he seemed to produce a marked impression. At last, Johnson went his way, promising aloud that he would send Longost what he desired. When the medicine boy came along the following morning, the doctor was the first to accost him, walking off with a small purple vial. This time there was little else in the basket, but a case bottle of the burnt brandy cordial, which, after much debate, was finally disposed of by someone pouring the contents, little by little, into the half of a coconut shell, and so giving all who desired a glass. No further medicinal cheer remaining, the men dispersed. An hour or two passed when Flash Jack directed attention to my long friend, who, since the medicine boy left, had not been noticed till now. With eyes closed, he was lying behind the stocks and Jack was lifting his arm and letting it fall as if life were extinct. On running up with the rest, I had once connected the phenomenon with the mysterious vial. Searching his pocket, I found it, and holding it up, it proved to be ladenum. Flash Jack, snatching it from my hand in a rapture, quickly informed all present what it was, and with much glee, proposed a nap for the company. Some of them not comprehending him exactly, the apparently defunct long ghost, who lay so still that I a little suspected the genuineness of his sleep, was rolled about as an illustration of the virtues of the vial's contents. The idea tickled everybody mightily, and throwing themselves down, the magic draft was passed from hand to hand. Thinking that as a matter of course, they must at once become insensible, each man upon taking his sip fell back and closed his eyes. There was little fear of the result, since the narcotic was equally distributed. But curious to see how it would operate, I raced myself gently after a while and looked around. It was about noon and perfectly still, and as we all daily took the siesta, I was not much surprised to find everyone quiet. Still, in one or two instances, I thought I detected a little peeping. Presently I heard a footstep and saw Dr. Johnson approaching, and perplexed enough did he look at the sight of his prostrate vial of patience, plunged apparently in such unaccountable slumbers. Daniel, he cried at last, hunching in the side with his cane the individual thus designated, Daniel, my good fellow, get up, do you hear? But Black Dan was immovable, and he poked the next sleeper. Joseph, Joseph, come wake up, it's me, Dr. Johnson. But jingling Joe with mouth open and eyes shut was not to be started. Bless my soul, he exclaimed, with uplifted hands and cane, what's got into him? I say, men, he shouted running up and down, come to life, men, what under the sun's the matter with you? And he struck the stocks and bawled with increased vigor. At last he paused, folded his hands over the head of his cane, and steadfastly gazed upon us. The notes of the nasal orchestra were rising and falling upon his ear, and a new idea suggested itself. Yes, yes, the rascals must have been getting boozy. Well, it's none of my business. I'll be off. And off he went. No sooner was he out of sight than nearly all started to their feet and a hearty laugh ensued. Like myself, most of them had been watching the event from under a sly eyelid. By this time, too, Dr. Longost was as wide awake as anybody. What were his reasons for taking ladenum, if indeed he took any whatever, is best known to himself, and as it is neither mine nor the reader's business, we will say no more about it. Chapter 36 We are carried before the consul and captain. We had been inmates of the Calabusa Beretani about two weeks when one morning Captain Bob, coming from the bath in a state of utter nudity, brought into the building an armful of old tappa, and began to dress to go out. The operation was quite simple. The tappa of the coarsest kind was in one long heavy piece, and fastening one end to a column of hibiscus wood, supporting the Calabusa. He went off a few paces, and putting the other about his waist, wound himself right up to the post. This unique costume, in rotundity something like a farthing-gale, added immensely to his large bulk, so much so that he fairly waddled in his gait. But he was only adhering to the fashion of his fathers, for in the olden time the kaihi, or big girdle, was quite the mode for both sexes. Bob, despising recent innovations, still clung to it. He was a gentleman of the old school, one of the last of the kaihis. He now told us that he had orders to take us before the consul. Nothing loath, we formed in procession, and with the old man at our head, sighing and laboring like an engine, and flanked by a guard of some twenty natives, we started for the village. Arrived at the consular office, we found Wilson there, and four or five Europeans, seated in a row facing us, probably with the view of presenting us judicial in appearance as possible. On one side was a couch, where Captain Guy reclined. He looked convalescent, and, as we found out, intended soon to go aboard his ship. He said nothing, but left everything to the consul. The latter now rose, and drawing forth a paper from a large roll, tied with red tape, commenced reading aloud. It purported to be the affidavit of John German, first officer of the British colonial bark Julia, Guy Master, and proved to be a long statement of matters from the time of leaving Sidney down to our arrival in the harbor. Though artfully drawn up, so as to bear heart against every one of us, it was pretty correct in its details, accepting that it was wholly silent as to the manifold derelictions of the mate himself, a fact which imparted unusual significance to the concluding sentence. And furthermore this deponent sayeth not. No comments were made, although we all looked round for the mate, to see whether it was possible that he would have authorized this use of his name, but he was not present. The next document produced was the deposition of the Captain himself. As on all other occasions, however, he had very little to say for himself, and it was soon set aside. The third affidavit was that of the seamen remaining aboard the vessel, including the trader Bungs, who it seemed had turned ships evidence. It was an atrocious piece of exaggeration from beginning to end, and those who signed it could not have known what they were about. Certainly Waimantu did not, though his mark was there. In vain the consul commanded silence during the reading of this paper. Comments were shouted out upon every paragraph. The affidavits read, Wilson, who, all the while, looked as stiff as a poker, solemnly drew forth the ship's articles from their tin case. This document was a discolored, musty, bilious looking affair and hard to read. When finished, the consul held it up, and, pointing to the marks of the ship's company at the bottom, asked us one by one whether we acknowledged the same for our own. What's the use of asking that, said Black Dan? Captain Guy there knows as well as we they are. Silence, sir, said Wilson, who, intending to produce a suitable impression by this ridiculous parade, was not a little mortified by the old sailor's bluntness. A pause of a few moments now ensued, during which the bench of judges communed with Captain Guy in a low tone, and the sailors canvassed the motives of the consul in having the affidavits taken. The general idea seemed to be that it was done with a view of bouncing or frightening us into submission. Such proved to be the case, for Wilson, rising to his feet again, addressed us as follows. You see, men, that every preparation has been made to send you to Sydney for trial. The Rosa, a small Australian schooner, lying in the harbour, will sail for that place in the course of ten days at farthest. The Julia sails on a cruise this day week. Do you still refuse duty? We did. Here upon the consul and Captain exchanged glances, and the latter looked bitterly disappointed. Presently I noticed Guy's eye upon me, and for the first time he spoke, and told me to come near. I stepped forward. Was it not you that was taken off the island? It was. It was you, then, who owe your life to my humanity, yet this is the gratitude of a sailor, Mr. Wilson. Not so, sir, and I at once gave him to understand that I was perfectly acquainted with his motives in sending a boat into the bay. His crew was reduced, and he merely wished to procure the sailor whom he expected to find there. The ship was the means of my deliverance, and no thanks to the benevolence of its captain. Dr. Long Ghost, too, had a word to say. In two masterly sentences he summed up Captain Guy's character to the complete satisfaction of every seaman present. Matters were now growing serious, especially as the sailors became rioters, and talked about taking the consul and the captain back to the Calabusa with them. The other judges fidgeted and loudly commanded silence. It was at length restored, when Wilson, for the last time addressing us, said something more about the Rosa and Sidney, and concluded by reminding us that a week would elapse ere the Julia sailed. Leaving these hints to operate for themselves, he dismissed the party, ordering Captain Bob and his friends to escort us back whence we came. End of Chapter 35 and 36. Recording by Tricia G. Chapter 37 and 38 of Oumu. This LibriVox recording is in the public domain. Oumu, a narrative of adventures in the South Seas by Herman Malville. Chapter 37. The French priests pay their respects. A day or two after the events just related, we were lounging in the Calabusa Baratani, when we were honored by a visit from three of the French priests, and as about the only notice ever taken of us by the English missionaries was there leaving their cards for us in the shape of a package of tracks, we could not help thinking that the French men, in making a personal call, were at least much better bred. By this time they had settled themselves down quite near our habitation. A pleasant little stroll down the Broome Road and a rustic cross peeped through the trees, and soon you came to as charming a place as one would wish to see. A soft knoll planted with old breadfruit trees, in front a savanna sloping to a grove of palms, and between these glimpses of blue sunny waves. On the summit of the knoll was a rude chapel of bamboos, quite small and surmounted by the cross. Between the canes at nightfall the natives stole peeps at a small portable altar, a crucifix to correspond, and gilded candlesticks and censors. Their curiosity carried them no farther, nothing could induce them to worship there. Such queer ideas as they entertained of the hated strangers, masses and chants were nothing more than evil spells. As for the priests themselves, they were no better than diabolical sorcerers, like those who in old times terrified their fathers. Close by the chapel was a range of native houses, rented from a chief and handsomely furnished. Here lived the priests, and very comfortably too. They looked sanctimonious enough abroad, but that went for nothing. Since at home in their retreat they were a club of friar talks, holding priestly wassel over many a good cup of red brandy and rising late in the morning. Pity it was they couldn't marry, pity for the ladies of the island I mean, and the cause of morality, for what business had the ecclesiastical old bachelors with such a set of trim little native handmaidens. These damsels were their first converts, and devoted ones they were. The priests, as I said before, were accounted necromancers. The appearance of two of our three visitors might have justified the conceit. They were little dried up Frenchmen in long straight gowns of black cloth, and unsightly three-cornered hats, so preposterously big that in putting them on, the reverent fathers seemed extinguishing themselves. Their companion was dressed differently. He wore a sort of yellow flannel morning gown and a broad-rimmed manila hat. Large and portly, he was also hail and fifty, with a complexion like in a tum-null leaf, handsome blue eyes, fine teeth, and a racy Malaysian brogue. In short, he was an Irishman, father Murphy by name, and as such, pretty well known and very thoroughly disliked throughout all the Protestant missionary settlements in Polynesia. In early youth, he had been sent to a religious seminary in France, and, taking orders there, had but once or twice afterward revisited his native land. Father Murphy marched up to us briskly, and the first words he uttered were to ask whether there were any of his countrymen among us. There were two of them, one a lad of sixteen, a bright curly-headed rascal, and, being a young Irishman, of course his name was Pat. The other was an ugly and rather melancholy looking scant, one McGee, whose prospects in life had been blasted by a premature transportation to Sydney. This was the report, at least, though it might have been scandal. In most of my shipmates were some redeeming qualities, but about McGee there was nothing of the kind, and, forced to consort with him, I could not help regretting a thousand times that the gallows had been so tardy. As if impelled against her will to send him into the world, nature had done all she could to ensure his being taken for what he was. About the eyes there was no mistaking him, with a villainous cast in one, they seemed suspicious of each other. Glancing away from him at once, the bluff priest rested his gaze on the good-humored face of Pat, who, with a pleasant roguishness, was twigging the enormous hats, or high-t-belt teasers as island beavers were called by sailors, from under which, like a couple of snails, peeped the two little Frenchmen. Pat and the priest were both from the same town in Meath, and, when this was found out, there was no end to the questions of the latter. To him Pat seemed a letter from home, and said a hundred times as much. After a long talk between these two, and a little broken English from the Frenchmen, our visitors took leave, but Father Murphy had hardly gone a dozen rods when back he came, inquiring whether we were in want of anything. Yes, cried one, something to eat. Upon this he promised to send us some fresh wheat bread of his own baking, a great luxury in Tahiti. We all felicitated Pat upon picking up such a friend, and told him his fortune was made. The next morning a French servant of the priests made his appearance with a small bundle of clothing for our young hibernian, and the promised bread for the party. Pat, being out at the knees and elbows, and like the rest of us, not full inside, the present was acceptable all round. In the afternoon Father Murphy himself came along, and in addition to his previous gifts, gave Pat a good deal of advice, said he was sorry to see him in limbo, and that he would have a talk with the consul about having him set free. We saw nothing more of him for two or three days, at the end of which time he paid us another call, telling Pat that Wilson was inexorable, having refused to set him at liberty, unless to go aboard the ship. This the priests now besought him to do forthwith, and to escape the punishment which, it seems, Wilson had been hinting at to his intercessor. Pat, however, was staunch against entreaties, and, with all the ardour of Asafa Morian sailor, protested his intention to hold out to the last. With none of the meekness of a good little boy about him, the blunt youngster stormed away at such a rate that it was hard to pacify him, and the priests said no more. How it came to pass, whether from Murphy's speaking to the consul or otherwise, we could not tell. But the next day Pat was sent for by Wilson, and being escorted to the village by our good old keeper, three days elapsed before he returned. Bent upon reclaiming him, they had taken him on board the ship, feasted him in the cabin, and, finding that of Noah Vale, down they thrust him into the hold in double irons and on bread and water. All would not do, and so he was sent back to the Calibusa. Boy that he was, they must have counted upon his being more susceptible to discipline than the rest. The interest felt in Pat's welfare by his benevolent countryman was very serviceable to the rest of us, especially as we all turned Catholics and went to mass every morning, much to Captain Bob's consternation. Upon finding it out, he threatened to keep us in the stocks if we did not desist. He went no farther than this, though, and so every few days we strolled down to the priest's residence and had a mouthful to eat and something generous to drink. In particular, Dr. Longost and myself became huge favorites with Pat's friend, and many a time he regaled us from a quaint-looking traveling case for spirits, stowed away in one corner of his dwelling. It held four square flasks, which, somehow or other, always contained just enough to need emptying. In truth, the fine old Irishman was a rosy fellow in canonicals. His countenance and his soul were always in a glow. It may be ungenerous to reveal his failings, but he often talked thick and sometimes was perceptibly eccentric in his gait. I never drink French brandy, but I pledge, Father Murphy, his health again, and many jolly proselytes may he make in Polynesia. Chapter 38 Little Jewel Sales Without Us To make good the hint thrown out by the consul upon the conclusion of the farce of the affidavits, we were again brought before him within the time specified. It was the same thing over again. He got nothing out of us, and we were remanded, our resolute behavior annoying him prodigiously. What we observed led us to form the idea that on first learning the state of affairs on board the Julia, Wilson must have addressed his invalid friend, the captain, something in the following style. Guy, my poor fellow, don't worry yourself now about those rascally sailors of yours. I'll dress them out for you. Just leave it all to me and set your mind at rest. But handcuffs and stocks, big looks, threats, dark hints, and dispositions had all gone for naught. Conscious that, as matters now stood, nothing serious could grow out of what had happened and never dreaming that our being sent home for trial had ever been really thought of, we thoroughly understood Wilson and laughed at him accordingly. Since leaving the Julia, we had caught no glimpse of the mate, but we often heard of him. It seemed that he remained on board, keeping house in the cabin for himself and Viner, who, going to see him according to promise, was induced to remain aghast. These two cronies now had fine times, tapping the captain's quarter-casks, playing cards on the transom and giving balls of an evening to the ladies ashore. In short, they cut up so many queer capers that the missionaries complained of them to the consul, and German received a sharp reprimand. This so affected him that he drank still more freely than before, and one afternoon, when mellow as a grape, he took umbrage at a canoe full of natives, who on being hailed from the deck to come aboard and show their papers, got frightened and paddled for the shore. Lowering a boat instantly, he equipped Waimantu and the Dane with a cutlass of peas, and seizing another himself, off they started in pursuit, the ship's ensign flying in the boat's stern. The alarmed islanders, reaching their canoe, with loud cries, fled through the village, the mate after them, slashing his naked weapon to right and left. A crowd soon collected, and the Carhow Rituni, or a crazy stranger, was quickly taken before Wilson. Now it's so chanced that in a native house hard by, the consul and captain Guy were having a quiet game at Cribbage by themselves, a decanter on the table standing sentry. The obstiferous German was brought in, and finding the two thus pleasantly occupied, it had a soothing effect upon him, and he insisted upon taking a hand at the cards, and a drink of the brandy. As the consul was nearly as tipsy as himself, and the captain dared not object for fear of giving offence, at it they went, all three of them, and made a night of it. The mate's delinquencies being summarily passed over, and his captors sent away. An incident worth relating grew out of this freak. There wandered about Pappety at this time, a shriveled little fright of an English woman, known among sailors as Old Mother Tot. From New Zealand to the Sandwich Islands, she had been all over the South Seas, keeping a rude hut of entertainment for mariners, and supplying them with rum and dice. Upon the missionary islands, of course, such conduct was severely punishable, and at various places Mother Tot's establishment had been shut up, and its proprietor made to quit in the first vessel that could be hired to land her elsewhere. But with a perseverance invincible wherever she went, she always started afresh, and so became notorious everywhere. By some wicked spell of hers, a patient, one-eyed little cobbler followed her about, mending shoes for white men, doing the old woman's cooking, and burying all her abuse without grumbling. Strange to relate, a battered Bible was seldom out of his sight, and whenever he had leisure, and his mistress's back was turned, he was forever pouring over it. This pious propensity used to enrage the old crone past belief, and often times she boxed his ears with the book, and tried to burn it. Mother Tot and her man Josie were, indeed, a curious pair. But to my story, a week or so after our arrival in the harbor, the old lady had once again been hunted down and forced for a time to abandon her nefarious calling. This was brought about chiefly by Wilson, who, for some reason unknown, had contracted the most violent hatred for her, which on her part was more than reciprocated. Well, passing in the evening, where the council and his party were making merry, she peeped through the bamboos of the house, and straight wave resolved to gratify her spite. The night was very dark, and providing herself with a huge chip's lantern, which usually swung in her hut, she waited till they came forth. This happened about midnight, Wilson masking his appearance, supported by two natives holding him up by his arms. These three went first, and just as they got under a deep shade, a bright light was thrust within an inch of Wilson's nose. The old hag was kneeling before him, holding the lantern with uplifted hands. Ha-ha, my fine counselor! she shrieked. He persecute a lone old body like me for selling rum, do ye? And here ye are, carried home drunk. Hoot ye, villain, I scorn ye! and she spat upon him. Terrified at the apparition, the poor natives, errant believers and ghosts, dropped the trembling council and fled in all directions. After giving full vent to her rage, mother Tott hobbled away and left the three revelers to stagger home the best way they could. The day following our last interview with Wilson, we learned that Captain Guy had gone on board his vessel for the purpose of shipping a new crew. There was a round bounty offered, and a heavy bag of Spanish dollars, with the Julius' articles ready for signing, were laid upon the capstan head. Now there was no lack of idle sailors ashore, mostly beachcombers, who had formed themselves into an organized gang headed by one Mac, a Scotchman, whom they styled the Commodore. By the laws of the fraternity, no member was allowed to ship on board a vessel unless granted permission by the rest. In this way the gang controlled the port, all discharged seamen being forced to join them. To Mac and his men, our story was well known. Indeed, they had several times called to see us, and of course, as sailors and congenial spirits, they were hard against Captain Guy. Deeming the matter important, they came in a body to the calabusa, and wished to know whether, all things considered, we thought it best for any of them to join the Julia. Anxious to pack the ship off as soon as possible, we answered by all means. Some went so far as to lod the Julia to the skies, as the best and fastest of ships. German, too, as a good fellow and a sailor every inch, came in for his share of praise. And as for the captain, quiet man he would never trouble any one. In short, every inducement we could think of was presented, and Flashjack ended by assuring the beachcomber solemnly that now we were all well and hardy, nothing but a regard to principle prevented us from returning on board ourselves. The result was that a new crew was finally obtained, together with a steady New Englander for second mate, and three good whelemen for harpooners. In part, what was wanting for the ship's larder was also supplied, and as far as could be done in a place like Tahiti, the damages the vessel had sustained were repaired. As for the Maori, the authorities refusing to let him be put ashore, he was carried to sea in irons, down in the hold. What eventually became of him we never heard. Ropey, poor poor Ropey, who a few days previous had fallen sick, was left ashore at the sailor hospital at Taunor, a small place upon the beach between Papati and Metawai. Here, sometime after, he breathed his last. No one knew his complaint. He must have died of hard times. Several of us saw him interred in the sand, and I planted a rude post to mark his resting place. The Cooper and the rest, who had remained aboard from the first, of course, comprised part of the Julia's new crew. To account for the conduct all along of the consul and captain, in trying so hard to alter our purpose with respect to the ship, the following statement is all that is requisite. Beside an advance of from fifteen to twenty-five dollars demanded by every sailor shipping at Tahiti, an additional sum for each man so shipped was to be paid into the hands of the government as a charge of the port. Beside this, the men, with here and there an exception, will only ship for one cruise, thus becoming entitled to a discharge before the vessel reaches home, which in time creates the necessity of obtaining other men at a similar cost. Now the Julia's ex-checker was at low water mark, or rather it was quite empty, and to meet these expenses a good part of what little oil there was aboard had to be sold for a song to a merchant of Papati. It was Sunday in Tahiti, and a glorious morning when Captain Bob, waddling into the calabusa, startled us all by announcing, ah, my boy, shipy you harry, makey sail. In other words, the Julia was off. The beach was quite near, and in this quarter altogether uninhabited. So down we ran, and at a cable's length saw a little jewel gliding past, top gallant sails hoisting, and a boy aloft with one leg thrown over the yard, loosing the four royal. The decks were all life and commotion, the sailors on the folk-soul singing, ho, cheerly men, as they catted the anchor, and the gallant German bareheaded as his wand, standing up in the bow sprit, and issuing his orders. By the man at the helm stood Captain Guy, very quiet and gentlemanly, and smoking a cigar. Soon the ship drew near the reef, and, altering her course, glided out through the break, and went on her way. Thus disappeared little jewel about three weeks after entering the harbour, and nothing more have I ever heard of her. End of chapters thirty-seven and thirty-eight. Recording by Tricia G. Chapters thirty-nine and forty of Omu. This Librabox recording is in the public domain. Omu, a narrative of adventures in the South Seas, by Herman Melville. Chapter thirty-nine. German serves us a good turn, friendships in Polynesia. The ship out of the way, we were quite anxious to know what was going to be done with us. On this head, Captain Bob could tell us nothing, no further at least, than that he still considered himself responsible for our safekeeping. However, he never put us to bed any more, and we had everything our own way. The day after the Julia left, the old man came up to us in great tribulation, saying that the bucket of bread was no longer forthcoming, and that Wilson had refused to send anything in its place. One in all, we took this for a hint to disperse quietly and go about our business. Nevertheless, we were not to be shaken off so easily, and taking a malicious pleasure in annoying our old enemy, we resolved for the present to stay where we were. For the part he had been acting, we learned that the council was the laughing stock of all the foreigners ashore, who frequently twitted him upon his hopeful protégés of the Calabusa Baratani. As we were wholly without resources, so long as we remained on the island, no better place than Captain Bob's could be selected for an abiding place. Beside, we heartily loved the old gentleman, and could not think of leaving him, so telling him to be quite at ease on the score of our clothing and food, we resolved by extending and systematizing our foraging operations to provide for ourselves. We were greatly assisted by a parting legacy of Germans. To him we were indebted for having all our chests sent ashore, and everything left therein. They were placed in the custody of a petty chief living nearby, who was instructed by the council not to allow them to be taken away, but we might call and make our toilets whenever we pleased. We went to see Mahini, the old chief, Captain Bob going along and stoutly insisting upon having the shadows delivered up. At last this was done, and in solemn procession the chests were born by the natives to the Calabusa. Here we disposed them about quite tastefully, and made such a figure that in the eyes of old Bob and his friends the Calabusa Baratani was by far the most sumptuously furnished saloon in Tahiti. Indeed, so long as it remained thus furnished, the native courts of the district were held there, the judge Mahini and his associates sitting upon one of the chests, and the culprits and spectators thrown at full length upon the ground, both inside of the building and under the shade of the trees without, while leaning over the stocks as from a gallery the worshipful crew of the Julia looked on and canvassed the proceedings. I should have mentioned before that previous to the vessel's departure the men had bartered away all the clothing they could possibly spare, but now it was resolved to be more provident. The contents of the chests were of the most miscellaneous description, sewing utensils, marling spikes, strips of calico, bits of rope, jackknives, nearly everything in short that a seaman could think of. But of wearing apparel there was little but old frocks, remnants of jackets, and legs of trousers, with now and then the foot of a stocking. These, however, were far from being valueless, for among the poor Tahitians everything European is highly esteemed. They come from Baratani, Fenua Parari, Britain, land of wonders, and that is enough. The chests themselves were deemed exceedingly precious, especially those with unfractured locks which would absolutely click and enable the owner to walk off with the key. Scars, however, and bruises were considered great blemishes. One old fellow, smitten with the doctor's large mahogany chest, a well-filled one, by the way, in finding infinite satisfaction in merely sitting thereon, was detected in the act of applying a healing ointment to a shocking scratch which impaired the beauty of the lid. There is no telling the love of a Tahitian for a sailor's trunk, so ornamental is it held as an article of furniture in his hut that the women are incessantly tormenting their husbands to be stir themselves and make them a present of one. When obtained, no pier table just placed in a drawing-room is regarded with half the delight. For these reasons, then, are coming into possession of our estate at this time was an important event. The islanders are much like the rest of the world, and the news of our good fortune brought us troops of Taiyos or friends eager to form an alliance after the national custom and do our slightest bidding. The really curious way in which all the Polynesians are in the habit of making bosom friends at the shortest possible notice is deserving of remark. Although among a people like the Tahitians, officiated as they are by sophisticated influences, this custom has in most cases degenerated into a mere mercenary relation that nevertheless had its origin in a fine and in some instances heroic sentiment formerly entertained by their fathers. In the annals of the island are examples of extravagant friendships unsurpassed by the story of Daemon and Pythias, in truth much more wonderful, for notwithstanding the devotion, even of life in some cases, to which they led, they were frequently entertained at first sight for some stranger from another island. Filled with love and admiration for the first whites who came among them, the Polynesians could not testify the warmth of their emotions more strongly than by instantaneously making their abrupt proper of friendship. Hence in old voyages we read of chiefs coming off from the shore in their canoes and going through with strange antics expressive of this desire. In the same way their inferiors accosted the seamen, and thus the practice has continued in some islands down to the present day. There is a small place not many days sail from Tahiti and seldom visited by shipping where the vessel touched to which I then happened to be long. Of course among the simple-hearted natives we had a friend all round. Mine was pokey a handsome youth who never could do enough for me. Every morning at sunrise his canoe came alongside loaded with fruits of all kinds. Upon being emptied it was secured by a line to the bowsprit under which it lay all day long, ready for any time to carry its owner ashore on an errand. Seeing him so indefatigable I told pokey one day that I was a virtuoso in shells and curiosities of all kinds. That was enough, a way he paddled for the head of the bay, and I never saw him again for twenty-four hours. The next morning his canoe came gliding slowly along the shore with the full leafed bow of a tree for a sail. For the purpose of keeping the things dry he had also built a sort of platform just beyond the prow, railed in with green wicker work, and here was a heap of yellow bananas and cowry shells, young coconuts and antlers of red coral, two or three pieces of carved wood, a little pocket idol, black as jet, and rolls of printed tappa. We were given a holy day, and upon going ashore pokey of course was my companion and guide. For this no mortal could be better qualified. His native country was not large, and he knew every inch of it. Gallanting me about, everyone was stopped and ceremoniously introduced to pokey's Taiokahao Renewee, or his particular white friend. He showed me all the lions, but more than all he took me to see a charming lioness, a young damsel, the daughter of a chief, the reputation of whose charms had spread to the neighboring islands and even brought suitors there from. Among these was two boy, the heir of Tamatoi, king of rioter, one of the society aisles. The girl was certainly fair to look upon. Many heavens were in her sunny eyes, and the outline of that arm of hers peeping forth from a capricious tappa robe was the very curve of beauty. Though there was no end to pokey's attentions, not a syllable did he ever breathe of reward. But sometimes he looked very knowing. At last the day came for sailing, and with it also his canoe loaded down to the gunwale with a sea-stock of fruits. Giving him all I could spare from my chest, I went on deck to take my place at the windless, for the anchor was weighing. Pokey followed and heaved with me at the same hand-spike. The anchor was soon up and away we went out of the bay with more than twenty shallops towing a stern. At last they left us, but long as I could see him at all, there was pokey standing alone in motionless in the bow of his canoe. End of Part 1 Part 2 Chapter 40 We Take Unto Ourselves Friends The arrival of the chests made my friend, the doctor, by far the wealthiest man of the party, so much the better for me seeing that I had little or nothing myself, though from our intimacy the natives courted my favor almost as much as his. Among others Kulu was a candidate for my friendship, and being a comely youth, quite a buck in his way, I accepted his overtures. By this I escaped the importunities of the rest, for be it known that, though little inclined to jealousy and love matters, the Tahitian will hear of no rivals in his friendship. Kulu, running over his qualifications as a friend, first of all informed me that he was a miconnery, thus declaring his communion with the church. The way this tile of mine expressed his regard was by assuring me over and over again that the love he bore me was newy, newy, newy, or infinitesimally extensive. All over these seas the word newy is significant of quantity. Its repetition is like placing ciphers at the right hand of a numeral, the more places you carry it out to, the greater the sum. Judge then of Kulu's esteem, nor is the allusion to the ciphers at all inappropriate, seeing that in themselves Kulu's professions turned out to be worthless. He was, alas, as sounding brass and a tinkling cymbal, one of those who make no music unless the clapper be silver. In the course of a few days the sailors, like the doctor and myself, were cajoled out of everything, and our tios all round began to cool off quite sensibly. So remiss did they become in their attentions that we could no longer rely upon their bringing us the daily supply of food, which all of them had faithfully promised. As for Kulu, after sponging me well, he one morning played the part of a retrograde lover, informing me that his affections had undergone a change. He had fallen in love at first sight with a smart sailor who had just stepped ashore quite flush from a lucky wailing cruise. It was a touching interview, and with it our connection dissolved. But the sadness which ensued would soon have been dissipated had not my sensibilities been wounded by his indelicately sporting some of my gifts very soon after this transfer of his affections. Hardly a day passed that I did not meet him on the broom-road, airing himself in a regatta shirt which I had given him in happier hours. He went by with such an easy saunter, too, looking me pleasantly in the eye and merely exchanging the cold salute of the road. Yar onor, Boyoi. A mere sidewalk, how do you do? After several experiences like this I began to entertain a sort of respect for Kulu as quite a man of the world. In good soothe he turned out to be one, in one week's time giving me the cut direct and lounging by without even nodding. He must have taken me for part of the landscape. Before the chests were quite empty we had a grand washing in the stream of our best raiment for the purpose of looking tidy and visiting the European chapel in the village. Every Sunday morning it is open for divine service, some member of the mission officiating. This was the first time we ever entered Pappity unattended by an escort. In the chapel there were about forty people present, including the officers of several ships in Harbour. It was an energetic discourse and the pulpit cushion was well pounded. Occupying a high seat in the synagogue and stiff as a flagstaff was our beloved Guardian Wilson. I shall never forget his look of wonder when his interesting wards filed in at the doorway and took up a seat directly facing him. Service over we waited outside in hopes of seeing more of him, but sorely annoyed at the sight of us he reconnoitred from the window and never came forth until we had started for home.