 Hey everyone, Conkruzer, Artistic Director of Color for John Paul Mitchell Systems here to share with you guys an exciting technique on how to color textured hair. We're going to talk about the fragility of the curl, how to keep it intact, how low energy volume works better than higher energy, and what lightener should I choose when I'm looking to do this type of a service. We're also going to wrap that all together with Paul Mitchell's brand new beige series from the Demi. We're going to talk about why those colors look so great on just about every single skin tone and how you guys can really accentuate your color box bigger by partnering and using these amazing colors. So what we're going to do is we're going to section off into four quadrants. Everything starts into four quadrants for me and then we're going to really start to break down where we want your eye to be drawn. So we're going to go right to those temple areas in the beginning of our sectioning. We are going to weave those out and again whenever you guys are weaving colors stays true with everything you're doing. Think about the percentage of likeness you want. For this look we want an overall brighter change. We're not really looking for much of a root change. Overall we're really looking to incorporate the natural color with the beige colors that we're using but we really want to brighten those end colors. Draw the eye to those big curly texture that we're going to, how we're going to be styling it in the texture that we're working with. So we're going to work in those side panels. We're going to place three foils back to back in weaves. They're very soft weaves again very natural, fine weaves so they look really soft and natural. We're going to apply those back to back skipping some hair in between of course but working with our synchro soft. Why are we working with synchro soft? Because it is a super conditioning lightener. It's going to lift softer. It's going to take a little bit longer to lift but that's okay. It's going to take me a little bit longer to highlight here to get through the texture, get through the curls but mainly the thing I really want to focus on when you're working with textured hair is you guys really want to focus on making sure that you're not disrupting the curl. Once those three panels are put in into the left side I'm going to switch and work on the right side just to keep everything consistent and even and then I'm going to swing side and I'm going to work with the TZ texture. When I start to work with that interior I don't need those foils going right up to the root so I'm going to save a little bit of time. I'm going to TZ it. I'm going to let that lived in texture, let that depth kind of sit in that middle area through here and then what I'm going to do is just hit those ends up again drawing the attention to the ends. That's really why we're doing this. So we're going to hit a couple little TZ's in through here. We're in our top section in through the crown area. I'm going to take those two sections that I have and combine them as one then I'm going to work right across the hairline and what I'm going to do is I'm going to weave that out really closely right to the hairline here that's really important and I'm going to work off a combination of again really fine weave textures to create softness and draw your attention to the hairline and then I'm going to combine that every few foils or so with the TZ. We're bringing that color all the way to the regrowth we're adding a concentration of blonde that's going to really break up the root a little bit it's going to kind of soften the overall look and whenever I'm teasing I'm leaving the natural color as depth so it's almost like negative space if that helps you guys figure it out. So whenever you want to bring the you know bring more lightness and brightness go right down to the regrowth and whenever you want guys want to create a little bit of a softness a little bit of negative space leave a little bit of that natural and TZ the main thing we want to do again is brighten the ends in a perfect combination so as I move away from the hairline I'm going to be more TZs less foiling until eventually that foiling right to the base goes away by the time I'm hitting mid midway to the top I'm just teasing why because I don't need blonde shooting out of the top of the area here I just need a little bit of softness so mainly all those weaves are going in around the hairline and as we back it up we're going to be really using her natural color to really act as a buffer as a softness where we really focus on that color now hitting the ends so we're using a depth that's present mixing with a beautiful blonde color and combining those results to get an overall beautiful light soft blonde now that I'm in the back I'm going to be working up slight diagonal and I'm just going to weave those colors up and work back to back to back I'm going to apply that up until I get really up around that crown of the head again and then I'm going to allow that base to act as a buffer and just really start to TZ back to back in through here and you guys will see even on some of those TZs I'm really thinking about how much a blonde that I want so think about this way when you're when you're using your blonde you're erasing you're creating brightness but by not placing color you're creating depth and you really want to find balance there and that's what an artist should be doing not just painting by numbers but really working with the texture that you have and thinking about the whole piece as an overall project versus thinking about following a tech so once that's all done we're going to go back we're going to shampoo we're going to show you guys the foils at 10 minutes 20 minutes and 30 minutes so you guys can see even with that 10 volume how beautiful the sinker lift soft is going to lift how beautiful and even that lift is going to be and you guys will be surprised at the end even with 10 volume on really fine textured hair like this it's enough right so don't make that mistake by going in with too aggressive of a lightener just because the hair is darker make that mistake of going in with a heavier volume because you think you need to remove it the hair is baby soft the hair is fine and it's going to lift on its own the main thing you want to consider here is keeping the curl intact and the less aggression we put on it the safer and the better the curl pattern will be and that's why these two products work so well together now that everything's done you guys can see we wanted to show you the technique dry so you guys can see where the lift comes you can see the concentration of blonde at the face then you can see as we started to work with that tz more towards the high point of the head you can see where that depth comes in so what we then go in with on as a toner you know my first initial instinct is let's try this toner and that toner let's use three different toners toying doesn't have to be that complex let's go in with one toner here we are going to go in with our 8nb or eight stroke zero seven that eight stroke zero seven is mixing the one to one mixing ratio of palmetial processing liquid you have this beautiful gel like consistency as you guys can see and what i'm going to do is just section it off and one of the things you'll notice as i'm sectioning i'm working with the ends when you guys are working on curly textured hair don't try to split it right at the root and then pull it apart that way start to detangle the ends a little bit just like anything when you guys are detangling hair start with the ends i'm going to separate those curls a little bit rather than pull or drag her hair i'm going to really kind of be soft with it work those ends and then work my split my sectioning down from the ends first that's a little pro tip there i'm going to continue to work through it and you guys will see in 20 minutes the brilliance of what is the demi the brilliance of what is eight stroke zero seven or 8nb this series and i think you guys are gonna be really excited with the end result here's the finished result hopefully you guys can see how beautiful the curl pattern still is intact how wonderful the lighting products work together at most importantly the brilliance which is the demi that tied all this technique