 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTechTools. Quality tools, essential support. All right, so we are on our first call Monday morning here and the building seems to be being pulled into a negative pressure because they weren't heating very well. But now that they've got the system turned off, it is heating. Let's go up here and take a look see what we got going on. So I just replaced these filters because the other ones were starting to come apart. They look fine. Okay. See through them. Man, it is cold up here. I think it said 19 on my display. I don't know if I hear anything going on here. Okay. What do we got going on here? So burner off intake air, thermostat can't run unless it's 50 degrees out. Operation controls, red. Limit. Does not feel tripped. Air flow, switch just made. So we're not getting a call for the fan to run. So we've got power obviously. Well, there we go. We tripped on overload. That's nice. Let's get our meter out here and see what amperage we're pulling. See if we're overamping because man, I think it sounds like it's hauling the goods to the market. Let's see what kind of amps we're getting here. Looks like three phase. That's kind of hanging in there like that, which makes me think okay. It's a bit diddle-dinked with recently. So there's 10.9. That looks like it's set pretty low. 10.6. 11.1 and 10.2. Voltage. Survey says 2.11, 2.12, 2.14, coming at the bottom of it, 2.12, 2.11, close enough to 2.14, coming out of the bottom, 2.11, 2.12, and 2.13, almost 14. So voltage is fine. Looking at that, setting there. Usually you want just a little over what it's rated for. Yeah, we're set up just a little under 15-ish area right there, but we did trip. So let's take a peek at the motor and see where we're at on that. Well, you shouldn't just kill it, but oh here, we'll kill it this way. We'll turn the burners off. That will turn off just the main burner. That cold air is 19 degrees come through here. We'll drop that temperature in a heartbeat. That way it won't. Now we can go ahead and shut it off. How about that? Man, my fingers can't feel crap. Slide this over, head of that. Plus, that's a Hubble. That's hard to believe it's a Chincey. So the belts are fresh. They look good. Poli is cranked up. Data plate looks like it's been dinged with. There we go. See if I can read this thing. I should have brought my glasses up here. Sucks like having Lasik, and then after all these years, you got to go back to wearing glasses again. Okay, so 13.6 on 230. 13.6. So I think we set those up. I think it's either 10% or 20% over what you figure it's going to run. So 13.6. And that's at 230 volt. This is running 214. So it's going to pull a little more than that 13, whatever you want to call it. You could probably take that up just a touch more. Don't quote me on this, but would I say 13.4? This is 13.5. Plus 15%. Two extra amps at 15 amps. But we're also got a little deduction for that voltage being a little lower than what they rated it at. And it really looks like this thing's been changed a little bit. And according to that, 15 is about as low as it goes. That's 16-ish area right there. We'll go 17 just to see how that goes. That belt there is a little looser than that belt. Okay, let's see if maybe by chance, I'm trying to think of what would be some examples of what that would do it. I mean, obviously with a door off it would do it. Okay, it's pulling in. Set up for 60 degrees here. Dampers opening up. Another thing which actually would lower the amperage. So, yeah, there's our burner. And they're definitely hauling the bacon to town there. Okay, with the door off, we're pulling 15.5. 15.6. We're tripping so that extra amp over. There's 16. And there's 15.1. Okay. Fired off just now. 11 amps. 11.9. Now, we could have us a problem with the motor not starting every time. At this point, I don't know if that's an issue or not. There we go. There, we gotta get you a little twist. I always love when they give us nice reading like that. The manifold's not very high, but it's not hot-firing probably too horribly hard. We're only going for 60 degrees here on that. Which, you know, it's a kitchen. 10 degrees below room temperature. It's gonna feel good and cool. Let's go down and see how that does with the doors. Not opening and closing and whether or not we're sucking all the heat out of everything. Now, here is our inspection port. I've drilled little bitty holes in the end of that so you can kind of see the flame. I can't see squat through that. I'm kind of curious to make sure the flame is working. I'm not talking drilling the whole thing out, but otherwise, if you've got some sandpaper and some buffing pads and some of that paste, you could probably buff it out. Or you could order a new one. I just like putting a little hole in there. There we go. You can see what's going on. It's not hardly firing. I mean, it's definitely got a decent fireball. It's got little baskets or little ball sizes. Definitely not uniformed all the way across. I'd say we might have a little bit of dirt on it. That's not gonna cause any issues with building being in a negative and motor tripping. So that's something we could always do at a later date. Yeah, it's definitely getting cold out here. The old tape, this is good 3M stuff, barely flopping. Let's go over here and check some of these exhaust hoods. She's hauling the mail. That one's not June Jack. That one's hauling the mail. That thing is like taking the biscuits to the bakery like something fierce. That heating unit's running. That one hasn't ran for a while. This one's got issues. One of these had issues. I turned it off. I don't know if anybody came back and replaced heat exchanger or something. There was some issues with one of these. This one hasn't ran for a while either. Look at it. We got the snowy type stuff on top here. And this is the area that they were complaining about. Somebody's been up here recently. This one had an increased fan speed. It was not... I think it was... Yeah, the filter's getting a little dirty. She just... turned off. They're looking a little shoddy. 9, 12, 22. Them suckers are already pretty dirty for only being 10, 11, 12, 3 months old. Holy crap. Feels good down there though. I can feel the heat. Wow. Yeah. Something about running gas lines right in front of the exhaust it seems to just really be an appeal to people. Yeah, so like half these units don't even look like they're running. I went through all this, like I said, in September and looked at them. That's still running. Oh yeah. I love this. So why are we running the air conditioning in this weather? Why is the economizer not working unless the second stage is calling. So you got heat kicking on the ones and you got... That's just stupid. I mean, it literally is... It's 19 degrees out. Dangerous. Conditions are extremely late. Blah, blah, blah. Feels like 10. Awesome. Thought I felt a little cold out here. I forgot what to check out. Okay, that control looked new because somebody only put one screw in it. But you kind of just wiggles there. I would say it probably never got properly set up. Like I said, it was just at the very bottom so it was about 14. They set it right at the exact amperage. So a lot of times, I mean, you got to have a little bit of leeway there at least going out of memory. I'd have to look it up. But looking at it from here... Yeah, you can. You kind of see the backside of it. I don't think you can see it. Maybe you can get right to this. It should shut down. It's actually letting the flames run. Normally, that would trigger out from what I'm seeing. Yeah. Everything's clean. Everything's open. That damper kind of flopping around like it is is kind of making it work. I asked about why does the carbon monoxide and stuff not affect them because it's just bringing outside air in. You're bringing in all this air. Carbon monoxide is incomplete combustion. So if you can have perfect combustion, you'll have no carbon monoxide. If you got all this air coming through, it's burning completely clean. If I have time, I'll grab my analyzer and stick it in the duct air so you can measure it. But you're not going to have anything. If you do, it's going to be low 5 parts per million, maybe 10 parts per million. Over an 8-hour period. I don't recommend doing what I just did, but I was prepared for it to do it if it was going to do it. But that thing's really pulling pretty strong. I don't know why we got so much air, but probably because they got everything cranked up. I'm assuming that we probably hired somebody to come do it, but it's hard to say. Let's go ahead and put it together. Let's go downstairs and see how the building feels. This building was purchased recently and was redone for a different restaurant. Some of the things have changed the way things were designed. Not the same loads. Not the same kind of food being cooked either. Before we go down there, let's go ahead and check this rooftop unit over and see what's going on. Why is this thing around there conditioning? Is it just the fan motor sticking on? It might just be the fan motors only. I don't hear compressors. I don't know why that would be, but anything's possible with Allied air. Glorified looking Linux. Compressors. Suction side is warm. That's kind of odd. Discharge is kind of warm. I feel this suction on the other one. It's really hot too. I don't know. Here's our economizer control. Let's take a peek at our voltage coming into the unit. Coming to Y1. We got juice. Y2. We got 25 volts. 0.8. Nothing on W. Nothing on that. We do have a call for G. And between R and common we have 26.1. Do we have a call on both Y1 and Y2? Yes we do. That's why it's running the economizer. That's high quality right there. When you have both stages calling that's causing the economizer to not run. I'm in position. DC set. I can find the ABC thing. There it is. I can turn it all the way up to A and it's not doing squat. I'm in position. It's pretty much set down to jack. What we need to do is find out why is it calling for that much cooling down there. We can pull this one wire off of two here and it should shut down. That's working really well ain't it? Okay. We're just going to burn stuff up at this kind of temperatures. Okay back on. See if the economizer comes on. It ain't. We need to update this to a jade controller. Not good. Now where they got that put at that's probably junk. You're just going to suck water and somebody's going to spray it with a hose to wash it off the filters in a cheap easy way and they're going to ruin it. Let's go and see where we're at on that. It'll adjust. It actually is. Look at that stuff. Grab a dog all the way up and see what happens. They're dirty as all get out. They're easy. Nice and greasy. That is neat change. Pretty good. Okay so our minimum position system does work. So we can turn that down a little bit. Now that we're not in winter or not in summer that's normal. That's partially what's going on here is we've got to make up air you don't like they got it to probably make up for not bringing anything into the economizer here. Okay there we go. We've got that bringing in some air. Of course this filter will get trashed before you know it. Let's see if we got a call for cooling yet. We do not. Let's go down there and find out what's going on with that. I had some problems with these compressors when I was hearing a summer and I don't think we ever get too busy. Yeah I don't know what the minimum temperature and all that stuff is. I don't know we have an outside freeze protection deal on this. Like the carrier has. Blow ambient kit optional. Of course it is. I wouldn't sell you a new compressor. Yeah there just needs to be a lock out on that. It would be better if they could switch it to a jade controller. If they did then you'd be able to just tell it exactly when you want things to lock out on instead of having to add snap disc style thermostats and things like that. Let's go downstairs see how things are as far as the building negative wise. We are bringing in a little air. I didn't get too crazy. We'll put all that back together in a minute. Alright so here's the kitchen RQ4 that is the right one. I need to make sure these are actually set up right. Show Y1 and Y2 but let's see if it's programmed that way. When I pulled this off the wall it did just kind of pull off really easy. I mean it just doesn't snap under. I mean it pulls off awful easy. I don't like that. See that's a 3. One and one. Yeah sensor, sensor. Alright we'll go grab the manual from this thing and see if I can make sure it's programmed right. And I'm cool set point should never be below 68. Heating should never be above 70. So let's go 74. 74 just in case something's wrong. So that's all, all fine. This area out here is what we had some issues with. Maybe you got spiral duct coming around a way along the outside here. I'm working this way around so it definitely had to crank some air. Alright so we just walked the whole building and that's not cool calling for it so we'll just jump it up on the roof. The thing is on so I gotta just jump Y and then we'll make sure and I got permission to go ahead and add just the thermostat. I'll just go with a simple walking cooler thermostat and make sure that it shuts off at like say 45 degrees or something. Open to closes now no problem at all. He said he was having a hard time for a while now. Okay so it just kicked on a minute ago. We still came on even with the Y2 unhooked. So I'm gonna go through here and see if I can figure out if there's something I'm not seeing. Cause there's been a lot of fingers and things. Like here's R2. One of them is gonna be your return air sensor. You got your outdoor sensor. Well I should say your mixed air temperature. Mixed air temperature sensor is gonna modulate the damper so that it only opens it up as far as it needs to but generally it will not run the compressor mechanical cooling. Once it gets below the temperature that the free cool set point is. It should not be in allow it to run. So if it doesn't know what the outdoor temperature is that can throw it off when it's trying to run. Which I have a funny feeling that might be something that's going on. I may have to go grab one of my other books because I don't think this has got much in here schematic wise. What I need that's kind of what we've got going on here. I'm just gonna put a thermostat there on there so it breaks Y2 whenever it gets below 45 degrees 50 degrees something like that. The economizer should be more than adequate. But I don't want to wipe out Y2 completely because then it won't run in the summertime. So that's why we've got to use some sort of stat to do that. Usually they'll use a snap disk but I don't have it and I ain't got time for that. Right now what I need to do is just figure out where's my outdoor sensor at. Is it working right? I mean you can tell that there's not factory and find out if everything's wired correctly. Should be able to crank this free cool up and it should surely shut off. That's all the way up to A I have a feeling that thing's not working right or the sensors junk. What I've got here is an old manual which is I don't know how old but this thing has got all the information you're going to want. It's got your wiring, it's got the logic of how it works and like even right here they're telling you that ambient lockout controls set point 50 degrees. Here's what I needed in the very back. Check out procedure differential enthalpy and single enthalpy. I think we're set up for dual or differential. So turn your DC max to mid position. Place a 620 ohm resistor across SO and positive and then a 1.2 which I think is what's inside my little jumper box. Place the 1.2 on there and the free LED turns on. The motor drives to approximately 45 degrees half open. Alright so we're at 1.2 k ohms. That is our enthalpy setting here on my device that I built. This is what I used for my train testing but I built that into one box just to make it simple. But all I need is the 1.2. Unfortunately I forgot to put about a 600 in there because usually I don't have dual enthalpy. I couldn't see it because all these wires were on top of it but the free cool light is not on. So that's going to tell me right there the outside temperature sensor is not working. We can go ahead and check the SR plus and whatever you want to call it the SR. See what resistance that is. That's our indoor should be our indoor mix. Pretty sure we should get a good reading on that one. I'm not getting anything at all. That sucks. That should be our 630 ohm one. Yeah we got Jack on that. The other one I'll be real surprised if this one is okay. I'm not getting squad on it but like I said this meter sometimes I have my lingering doubts about it when it comes to resistance. It doesn't go super high. Leads are good .1 If that's the case then both sensors are junk and then we'll just need to grab both of them. I don't know where that one's going to. That should be my mixed air sensor if I remember right. There we go. Free cool is on. Look at that. Mm-hmm. So we know the outdoor sensor thing is junk. Okay. So let's go ahead and turn it from B to A and we should be able to teeter on and off. So right now it's free cool and look at that. It's driving right open. Our outdoor sensors junk as we go down to our ABCD we're going to rotate it backwards and it should go out or one should go on and one should go out. So the other one is not working because I don't have a 620 ohm resistor on there. At this point we either need to go get a 620 ohm resistor or our mixed air sensor. Just a regular generic one which I could really care less. Mixed air temperature would be more reliable if that's the one I need. The misters generally don't go bad no or near that fancy stuff. So we are at 200 ohms right there. So that mixed air sensor is working I believe so that means if we get that 620 on there along with an outdoor sensor it's going to maintain a certain discharge. Mixed air usually 55 or something odd degrees. We won't let it get below that. So I need to call our supplier here in town and see if they've got it. Looking in here I can see corrosion already in there. This is the 2400A. All that fancy garbage electronics. They poured some stuff on there to help protect the circuitry but you can see right there she got wet that's a perfect corrosion for water that's your problem. That's why she's wanting to run that and that dual entropy thing I think is junk so we're just going to change that out. Alright so called the suppliers as usual neither two of them has it so we're going to have to order that so we will wire this up. For right now I'm just going to pull off Y1 and Y2. There's no reason for either one of them to be running. We'll just come back on that. But that's what we had with this unit here this little decade box here literally has all the train things train resistances built into it and then I added one extra one I thought hey, enthalpy would be awesome because I used to have just a jumper with a resistor on it and that usually worked just fine so I need to still build one with a 630 because man usually they have that and for whatever reason they went fancier and went with dual enthalpy we're just going to get rid of that. There's no need for it I mean it's a nice feature when you're doing comfort cooling we're doing raw dog cool it down get the heck done kitchen here. We've got the wires for that hooked back up. Alright so that's going to wrap that one up for now. May or may not come back and record that because I mean all we've got to do is put the enthalpy sensor on there. We've already tested the economizer control. Proved that it works when we had the correct readings for it to economize or not. Ended up mounting that enthalpy wall through the wall partially sticking in there into the economizer section where the filters are at that will get air drawn across it and so it will be accurate for that. I was a little leery of leaving it in that compartment just because they had compressors down below and I was afraid we might pick up some temperature off of it and cause it to false alarm or whatever. Otherwise the make up air thing I think we're good to go on that unless we've got a motor going out we'll find out soon enough if that's an issue that's about it guys. So if you enjoyed the video and want to see more like it make sure you give it a thumbs up and make sure you subscribe and click notifications until next time. We'll catch you on the next one later.