 Alright guys, so today what I'm gonna do is a haircut. I wanted to switch it up and do a men's cut today. I know a lot of you guys like the men's cuts, so today what we're gonna do is I'm gonna walk you through this disconnected front of a men's cut. The cool thing about the cut today is that we're gonna work with disconnection but it's gonna be a weightless disconnection because of our elevation. So if that confuses you, you should definitely watch this entire video. So the inspiration from this cut came from a haircut that I used to wear in high school because I listened to a band called Blink 182 and a lead singer Tom DeLong had this haircut with this disconnected front and I loved that haircut I wore it all the time but when I had it cut on my head it never really was right. So today this is my version of that haircut and I know a lot of you guys still listen to that band. So a lot of you might be looking for this type of cut. It's kind of the bangs in the face, it's more of a rock and roll cut. You could flip the bang up if you wanted to and wear it kind of back as well. So there's a lot of versatility to this cut so you don't have to wear it just like this but a couple other things I love is it has a little bit more length in the haircut but all of this disconnection is seamless because of the elevation. So let's just get started so you understand it. Thank you guys so much for watching. Let me know in the comments what you think and here we go. Alright so we're gonna start off our sectioning high on the bridal ridge. So I want to take that section especially when I'm working with men's hair and this is definitely a higher density of hair. I want to work higher on the bridal ridge because as I work up to the bridal ridge I'm going to be leaving a little extra weight to help build in that shape. So I'm gonna start off taking vertical sections right in the temple area straight out from the head no over direction and just cutting a straight line down. What that's gonna do is play off of the curves of the head so because I'm holding it straight out you could see that the angle on the very top of my finger is at more of a 45 degree angle so it's gonna give us more of a graduated feel and then as I work my way down the section it's more 90 degrees so it's gonna give me a layered feel. So that's what's gonna collapse the sides down. I'm leaving a little extra length because in this haircut I definitely I don't the sides don't need to be super short there needs to be a little bit more movement in there. So just working along that whole panel everything's coming straight out no over direction again and watch how I comb the hair so I'm scooping the hair what that's doing is helping me push that new hair towards the guideline so that I'm not moving my guideline from where it lives. If you think about what a guide is is it's a place that you're bringing something to so you definitely don't want to move it from where it is because then you're creating a completely different guide and your haircut's gonna be completely different at the end so just make sure that you're always combing the new hair towards the guideline. Now as we move into the back point of the haircut I'm gonna switch from going vertical sections to diagonal back sections and I'm gonna work that all the way through from behind the ear to the nape of the neck using my blacksmith fit scissor from Mizutani it's a six and a half inch scissor. I like to keep this one handy when I'm doing men's cutting especially in the sides because if I switch to scissor over comb or anything like that like having the longer blade. Longer blade doesn't really matter when you're working in your fingers so you could choose pretty much any length scissor that you're looking for but I like the black Smith fit as my kind of go-to tool for men's cutting and not even that it's the blacksmith fit mostly because it's the six and a half inch scissor so we're working through everything is we're going diagonal back like I said and everything's coming straight out from the head at 90 degrees so we're not creating any weight in this point of the haircut we're following the head shape creating those round layers in there and you could see how small my sections are and this is actually sped up so I slowly take that parting and you can see even with it sped up it's pretty slow because I want to make sure that those partings are exactly the way that I want them every single time so I really take my time when making those partings because that's gonna make your haircut more consistent in the end so just continuing through the back working palm to palm keeping everything at 90 degrees and staying as consistent as possible using those small sections I'm gonna go through I'm gonna use my prepare spray to start liquid tool glide that we use for razor cutting I also love it as a cutting lotion so I think a lot of times we go in and we'll just keep spraying water on the hair which is fine but when you're working with these type of sections it's nice to have something with a little condition to it that helps hold the hair that you're not gonna feel in the hair in the end when you blow it dry also I do want to say that the head sheet that you see on the left-hand side you can download that by clicking the link in the description below which will take you to our Dropbox and allow you to download the head sheet so that you can use it at your station if you want some people are making books with them and all that so this would be about my last section working all the way over to the opposite corner of the head and keeping that diagonal feel to the hair still keeping it at 90 degrees except for if you see right in the the bottom of my finger that's going to be a little bit lower elevation so we are building up a little extra weight in the crown area so you can see I'm using the fine teeth of the comb this is my 339 comb from YS Park I like this comb because it has a lot of tension it's a smaller comb so when I'm working in tighter spaces I like that as well and then the wider teeth are not too wide so I find it a very versatile comb for pretty much any situation so if I was going to pick one comb that would be what it was and I'm going to add a little bit of prepared to the right side before I start that so start off I'm going to take half inch sections again now I know there's going to be the question of how do I match up each side so what I usually do is I'll make a cut and then check and kind of stand in front of the head or look in the mirror and see if I've matched up the sides if they look right and then I'll move on don't try cutting the whole entire side and then checking just check that first section right away so big difference here is really that I'm combing more on top of the hair and pushing instead of scooping underneath that's to again keep that new hair going towards the guideline and not pushing the guideline away so just keep working through the back vertical section and building up that weight towards the bridal ridge collapsing the shape underneath and working those layers throughout the head once I get behind the ear that's when I have my guide to move into the back so that's going to be a little bit different with each person that you're working on so just work your the hair until you get to that ear point then you can connect your guideline from that and work into the nape of the neck working diagonal back the hardest part about working through the back is not building up too much weight because no matter what automatically when we comb the hair down we want to drop our fingers down as well which is going to build up a lot more weight in the haircut so just make sure that as you're working through you keep your hair or your fingers directly out from that parting and you don't drop them down too much in some cases you want to do that but in men's cutting for the most part you want to collapse that shape and create those layers all right so we're going to speed up the back a little bit basically what you want to do is just stay consistent through the back working palm to palm cutting everything at 90 degrees and you'll be good to go through the back now as we work into the crown area what I'm going to be doing is taking a vertical section and pulling it straight out from the head so there's our vertical section and no over direction whatsoever I'm going to start by scooping the hair towards the center as I work to the left so just working across the head shape what is going to be happening through this part is that I'm building up more weight towards my fingertips that's more at a 45 degree angle and then I'm creating a 90 degree collapsed layer as I move down the head shape so still only building up the weight towards the crown but that's going to give us a nice shape at the end of this cut a little bit of over direction in the in the side corner which will push some weight forward which looks really nice in the end you can always go through do a little scissor over comb to tighten that up but I yeah just working through the back and this now I'm going to do more of a scooping motion again this ties into combing the new hair towards the guideline so on the right hand side of the head I just scoop the hair over so you can see that shape really build up now I'm going to go through I'm going to blow dry using my 339 comb the reason I blow dry with the comb is because it gives me that extra tension helps smooth the hair out but what I want to look for and why I blow this dry before I cut the top is I want to look for the shape I want to see how the nape is is feeling I want to go through and do all the outer edges so I'm using my my t-trimmer right now and just working around the entire head shape I want to finish the sides in the bottom before I move to the top I like seeing the haircut unfolding the shape that I'm creating coming out in the head so it's just personally that's a personal preference for me you could go through and cut the whole entire thing wet if you want to but I just tend to like seeing the the whole shape unfold as I'm going through the haircut so this is a even though this is a mannequin right now I like to comb the hair over the ear and just kind of tap the trimmer around the ear what that's going to do is not give me too much of a tight feeling and a lot of people end up cutting those white walls on on top of the ear so it keeps you from doing that as well but if they want it a little bit higher on the ear then just fold that ear down and take the trimmer around it I'm also rounding the edges of this haircut I don't want it to be too squared off I think that gives it a little bit more of a natural feel and the thing I like about this haircut is it is a little bit longer on the side so it's not you know I think hair is moving a little bit longer it seems to be the trend so you know as people are growing out their fades and different things like that I think this is a good cut to transition them into they probably already have a little bit longer hair on top so you could definitely mess around with that but just leave the sides a little bit longer so now we're taking out the top combing it down I'm using water at that point and I'm splitting the head at the division point so I'm basically imagining a front and a back in the head shape so find that apex find that high point and comb the hair straight back so what I'm going to do is work those vertical sections just like I did in a low crown area now I'm working high crown and I'm following the head shape to collapse it so the heaviest point will be still sitting at low crown oh and I'm swapping out scissors there because I was working with my blacksmith fit but when I'm working on cutting on top of the head I like using a shorter scissor on top of my fingers so this is a 5.7 DB 20 scissor from Mizutani as well alright so working across the head shape everything is being brought straight up and using a traveling guide throughout the background pretty much the same exact way that we did on low crown just continuing that in the back you see me kind of shift my finger what I'm looking for and what makes this a seamless disconnected cut is the fact that even though they don't connect the sides in the top because I'm cutting this at 90 degrees all over the head shape it will fall seamless there will not be any lines of weight because of the way that I'm holding the hair right now so you want to make sure that horizontally and vertically you're holding everything at 90 degrees so you can see my angle 90 degrees here but when I cut the other side you'll see the opposite angle which is also at 90 degrees so I'm coming straight up and straight out so you can see how those layers the build up of weight is there if you lift it but if you comb it down it's nice and seamless so that is the trick of the day today that I really want you guys to take from this haircut and use it in your and your other disconnections that you do so following that head shape working through keeping everything at 90 degrees it's really important like when you're cutting at 90 degrees you want to make sure that no matter how you're holding the hair you don't want one tiny bit of an angle below 90 degrees if you're trying to not build weight so you could see how I'm elevating that straight up from the head and I'm also cutting it at 90 degrees so I'm cutting at 90 degrees vertically and horizontally which is gonna give me a seamless cut now I'm gonna work into the front bang area of the haircut this you want to have a rhyme and reason to the front being longer so I am going to connect it and I'm gonna follow the head shape a slight bit because I don't want it to collapse it too much and I don't want too much length in the front so I'm working these horizontal sections throughout the top and just now I'm over directing everything over the part so bringing everything over towards me stationary guide that's gonna give me a side angled bang on the cut and but I'm also following the head shape so it's keeping the weight there it's keeping the layers in line so you still get even though this is a disconnected haircut it has a purpose for everything so the last section there over directing it and finishing out the cut and there you go so now we're what we're gonna do is we'll go through we'll blow it dry still using our 339 comb the thing I like about blow drying men's hair and I think a lot of guys might say they don't want to use a blow dryer I use a blow dryer every day even on my hair because you have to place the hair where you want it first then you put the product in it takes two seconds to blow dry but you can see how already the hair is smoothing out because I'm using that 339 comb so that gives me the tension and pulls the hair where I want it now I do want some of that wave in there but I'm gonna go in and cut some dry cutting on the top so I wanted to see how that weight is laying and then I'll activate it a little bit more by spraying a little bit of water at the end and adding the product in so just going through I wanted to see how heavy that front was and then I'm gonna do some dry cutting now at this point so you can see how seamless and how those layers just kind of flow together even though they're disconnected so this is my Mizutani puffin dry cutting scissor go through do a little slide cutting in the bang just to finish off adding the details now I got my brocado carve which is my favorite it's a cream wax and I spray just a couple mists of water just to dampen the hair a bit and then I add the carve in there what that's gonna do is kind of give it more of a wet look to the hair but still has a nice hold to it alright guys if you're in need of any tools scissors combs clips brushes anything like that definitely check out freesaloneducation.com hope you like this cut alright guys like always if you like the video make sure you post in the comments below and let me know and if you made it this far in the video then I'd love to hear that as well also go to freesaloneducation.com and check out everything that we have to offer on our website and thank you guys so much for the support again hit the like button hit the share button and I'll see you on the next video thanks