 Hello boys and girls. Part 2 is here of the Teraflex 3-inch lift kit on the 2020 Jeep Rubicon JLU. For those who have been watching the Magnuson Supercharger install, serious. For some reason I thought it was a 19 but it is a 2020. So in this video I actually finalized the whole process front and rear. So make sure you subscribe, like, comment. There is more stuff coming for the Jeep. Almost forgot. Well I did forget. But then I remembered. This bracket for this bar here. Now a hole needs to be drilled. So I'm gonna actually install this. These go on the outside. This is kind of a tight fit. Okay this one goes on the inside. Alright there you go much better. I'm gonna use this bolt here to make sure it's lined up. Now I'm gonna make a mark for the holes that I gotta drill. I gotta drill two. One here on the side and one up top here. Cut this bracket and stress this bar here on this. Another bar. Both sway bar links are installed. So let's get back to bringing the two together. So I cannot go any lower because the front is lifting on the jack stands. You can see it's off the lift in the front. So what I'm gonna do now is I'm gonna tighten up the bracket. Not the control arms because those still have to move up and down. So I'm gonna do the control arms, the shocks. This bar is almost there. Maybe I can stretch it enough with a screwdriver to put a bolt through it. Tighten up the sway bar links up top. The bottom is tight. And I got ways on this upper control arm about an inch over an inch. Okay now you saw what happened. This whole axle tilted forward. So I put a pry bar essentially right here. I could raise it up by hand but then I would need another person to drive the bolts in. Obviously I couldn't do it by myself. So I just used a jack just to tilt it back to its position. And this bolt here and the two on the upper control arms went in with no issues. So now it's safe to bring it down. Now what I'm gonna do, since the front of the Jeep is off the jack, it's as if it was on wheels. So it is safe to tighten everything up. Now that everything is tight, there's one thing left which is the brake line brackets. I'm gonna raise it up. Brake line bracket update. One word. Ridiculous. Stupid and could be a for a different model anyways. So this is by instructions more or less passenger side. I did have to the instructions say get rid of these two brackets. And the difficult part is prying open these guys here. I mean this is especially this one here. This lack of words man. I mean you gotta use, you know, I'll show you the different tools I've used to get these open. But in my opinion if you're doing a 19 Jeep, do not remove this bracket. Just leave it alone. Only remove this one and get rid of it. And you won't be using this. So this is according to the instructions here. This bracket, one was here. You can see how I mounted the speed sensor wire here. Okay, now the axle is all the way down. It's stretched all the way down. You can see it's no longer on jack stands. And there's plenty of slack on all of these lines. Now this will move with the axle obviously. Only this is the concern. So there's plenty of slack here. I put zip ties on this provided bracket. And it attaches to the bottom shock bolt here. So this is okay. It's just, you don't need to do this. Now this is the driver's side. As you can see this bracket was untouched. And, you know, you're not gaining much slack by removing this bracket. So you have, I have another, more or less the same slack on the other side. But this again, this moves. This whole part is stationary. You know, these will not get stretched. When you turn the wheels they will, but you know, not going up and down. Anyways, all I did here, I removed this bracket. And I removed the push pin here for the breeder hose for the front diff. Because it was getting stretched. And that's it. That's all you got to do. Now I was looking at different options to attach this rubber bracket here. Either here or to the shock bolt. But as you can see I would have to remove this bracket. And that's a no-no. If I were to put it here. If this was the other way, you know, long ways like this. Then yeah, I would install this bracket for extra protection or whatever. But it's not. It's like that. So this is not going on. Alright, now the rear. First I'm going to support it the same way as I did in the front. By supporting the bottom bracket for the shock. Same here on, same as on the driver's side. Alright, axle supported. I removed the muffler. Because I'm going to be installing a new exhaust anyway. So might as well. I'm not going to bang my head over it. I'm going to start with removing, I think it's a 13 mil bolt right here. And that removes the bracket that holds the emergency brake lines. These two guys here. And what needs to happen is we need to reroute these, both of these, under the fuel line here. Basically all these guys here. I'm going to go down under the crossmember and these lines. So the way to do this, remove that bracket. Then apply the e-brake. These will pull towards you. And then you use vice grips to... There, that's better. Then you use... Once these are pulled out, emergency brakes applied. Then you take vice grips and you just pinch this part. And then release the e-brake. And this will be much easier to remove. Do not remove the vice grips. Remove these lines, then you reroute them. Then you simply put them back and then remove the vice grips on both sides. So that's what I'm going to do right now. And I'm going to show you the result. Okay, this wasn't bad at all. So this is what it should look like. I actually used hose clamps to squeeze this and remove it. But you do this after you remove the parking brake lines from here. This is what I used. So yeah, this was easy. Now it's time to loosen up all the control arms. Upper and lower. Got two bolts on each. And this one here. So it looks like 21. This one here is actually hidden inside the frame. So just loosen these up. Do not remove. Okay, once you loosen up both control arms. It's time to remove the brake line bracket. Which is this bolt here. And that looks like a 13. Just remove it both sides, obviously, and leave it loose. And remove both sway bar links. Two bolts, one on top and one on the bottom. Now if you have trouble, if they start to spin. If you're going to go remove this, I would just do it with a gun. It's a good chance they're just going to come off. But if they spin, if that little bulge inside the sway bar link starts to spin. You want to use an Allen key here. And hold it and use a wrench to remove the nut. The bottom one doesn't have it. It's held on with a bolt and a nut. Okay, next is removing shocks and the rear track bar. I'm going to remove this plastic. Here it's only 3 8mm bolts. Just so I have access to this 18mm. Looks like an 18mm for the bottom bolt as well. And looking from the rear, remove this bolt altogether so this track bar can actually come out. This looks like a 21. Forgot to mention also loosen up the 21 on the right side of the track bar. Once you got that done, bring it up and rest it up on top. And remove these look like 15s, I'm guessing. Remove the sway bar altogether because you're going to be installing these spacers. Alright, after removing the sway bar and loosening up that track bar bolt, this bracket here, slide it on. Make sure it's all the way in. You may want to slip a bolt through it. Here, just make sure it's nice and flush here. It's all the way down. And what you want to do, you want to mark these holes. There's going to be some drilling going on. Yeah, looks like just two half inch holes. Then take that off. And remember to always use a punch. So once you start drilling, you are in the center. More or less. So always use a punch, start with a small bit. I usually go through three or four sizes until I get to my size, which is going to be half inch in this case. Okay, once you get these holes drilled, I actually got them started from the outside, but I had to finish drilling on the inside because the drill and the bit was too long and the drill would hit the caliper. So this is the set right here. This is all the hardware you need to install this bracket. So first of all, short thickings. There is two. The bolt is thick. The spacers slide in between. And the big bolt goes through that with a 21 nut. And I'm going to be using the lower hole for up to three inches application. Remember I showed you the spacers. There is a two inch, a half inch and a half inch. So that makes it three. So anything above three inches lift, you use the top hole. Three inches and down, you use the bottom one. So this bolt is going to go in here later. So now it's time to, in my case, raise the Jeep so we can remove the springs. Hopefully this is enough. This is plenty. We're reusing all these. So these springs are actually marked for rear right and rear left. They both have tags. So this one's rear left. Left is always driver side. Now there's a special spot where the end of the spring actually sits. So let's see if we have to raise it up more since this one, this new spring is longer. I just noticed this little nipple here probably goes in one spot somewhere. And there we go. So just pay attention. I'm going to raise it up some more. Before I do, I'm going to remove these lines. This is getting close. Hard as I should say. This guy here too. This one actually has quite a bit of slack. They glue that clamp to the holes. Yeah, there's actually glue on the... I don't know why we do that. Okay, so now it's good to raise it up some more. Remember that nipple? There's actually a hole for it. I'm going to deal with those nipples later. This one longer, this one might be longer. Let's raise it some more. Good as jacked and it's almost ready to drop. So I won't be raising it anymore. There's going to be a challenge. I would love to have someone on the lift, on the controls now, and lower it for me or head around remote, that'd be nice. I'm going to lower it a little bit just to get it more or less in the right spot and then install the bump stops. That's all that is straight. So this spring is definitely longer. So let's deal with this one first. Okay, you can actually reach up on top and see where that rubber cushion is. And it seems like you can actually feel the nipple too. Okay, now time for the driver's side. Nipple, you need to bring it lower. Much easier on the driver's side for some reason. Leave it like that and take care of the bump stops. First, this metal plate. And you want to install these on the inside. See, it's got four holes basically, but you're either, you want to install it on these two. Okay, so there's two on the Jeep, on the axle. And you're going, so the empty ones go to the outside of the Jeep. The bolts need to point down. You can see in a minute why. So the Allen is a six mil. The nut is a 14. This is why, because underneath the, each plate, you got space for the bolt. That happens, happens, that's one. And this is two. Line these up. This part actually has threads in these holes here. So you want to slip that in. Install this funky washer in there. And from the bottom into that bracket you just slipped in. And this is an eight. And that is it for the bump stops. Time for the shocks. This cover, make sure this faces front of the Jeep. These Allen bolts apply little thread locker on these, which is provided. So using the same bolts, start from the top first. Okay, I want to tighten everything up. Mess around with the height of the Jeep and reinstall this track bar. I need probably half an inch or so. And finish up, oh yeah. Then we're going to work on the sway bar. Okay, so I had a little bit of trouble aligning the track bar with the bottom hole here. And I did. If this happens to you, basically I had to bring the two closer together. I took a flat screwdriver. Imagine this bolt not being there. I was able to grab onto the track bar and stretch it. Then I took a long, a deep socket, nine mil. And I put it from behind. And I actually went in all the way, almost halfway. And this would lock in the track bar in place. Then I was able to, because of the spring, I could not do anything else. I could not put a screwdriver. It had to be the socket because of the spring. There was no room. Then I was able to drive this bolt in while this socket was still in there. Then I kind of knocked it in and this bolt pushed out the nine mil. So that's tight. Let's take care of the sway bar. So before you start with the sway bar, they want you to use blue thread locker on these new sway bar bolts. So a line like this is fine, or two lines on each side. Get two of them ready. Spacer, logo outside. I really don't think it matters. But it kind of does. Now that I look at it, this hole is slightly bigger. Can you see that on this one? So logo on the outside. These look like our 15s. All right, boys and girls. Rear lift kit install is nearly done. One last thing to do. And I'm going to go back to the front as well. Oh yeah, just remember to the sway bar links they go on the outside. And this bolt here for the shock, bolts, I installed them from the inside out, figured this will be protected by the rim. And you know, in case you catch something here and this, the head of the bolt gets hit, you most likely will still be able to take it out from here. With probably no issues. Instead of if this was the other way around and you would damage the threads. You would probably have to cut this off to remove the shock. This way I'd say it's safer. So when I say it's nearly done is what I'm going to do. I'm going to lower it down only on jack stands. The front, the rear and the front. So it sits only on the jack stands and then tighten up all the control arms in the front and the rear. This way I won't have to crawl under it and with the wheels on and tighten it that way. This will be more space easier. Alright guys, so that is it for the lift kit. Hope you enjoyed it and I hope it helps someone out whoever may be installing the same kind of kit out there. So stay tuned, there's more to come and I'll see you soon.